The year 1905 marked a period of transition. The Belle Époque was characterized by peace, prosperity, and cultural advancements in France and much of Europe. Art, music, and literature flourished, with movements like Art Nouveau influencing design and aesthetics. At the same time, the early 20th century saw significant technological and industrial progress. This was the era of the second industrial revolution, characterized by the expansion of electricity, steel production, and railways, which also facilitated global trade and the spread of new ideas. The perfume industry was undergoing a transformation. Traditional methods of perfume making, which relied on natural ingredients, were being complemented by the burgeoning field of synthetic chemistry. François Coty, the founder of the brand, was a pioneer in this respect, blending natural essences with synthetic compounds to create complex and enduring fragrances.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh, spicy top, followed by a spicy floral heart, layered over a woody, powdery sweetened amber base. It was made up of 56 individual ingredients. Warm with a curious powdery note, violet, carnation and a hint of vanilla.
- Top notes: French basil oil, cascarilla oil, lemon, sweet orange, Bourbon ylang ylang, neroli, peach, pepper, coriander, mandarin orange, bergamot
- Middle notes: clove buds, violet, orchid, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, nutmeg, cinnamon, spicy carnation, orris
- Base notes: Bourbon vetiver, labdanum, opoponax, cedar, Mexican vanilla, Mysore sandalwood,Venezuelan tonka bean, Tibetan civet, Indian musk, musk ambrette, frankincense, Virginian cedar, Siamese benzoin, ambergris
Other aromachemicals also play their parts in the construction of L'Origan: eugenol, methyl ionone, vetiveryl acetate, musk ketones, heliotropin, cinnamic alcohol and nitromusks.
In addition to the ambreine accord, L'Origan features six other specially compounded bases: Dianthine (Chuit Naef/Firmenich), Iralia (Firmenich), Coralys (Samuelson/Naef/Firmenich), Foin Rigaud (De Laire), Flonol (De Laire), and Bouvardia (Schimmel/de Laire). The original formula also included Chiris natural floral absolutes of precious tuberose, jasmine, and orange blossom.
Dianthine lends a spicy, carnation bouquet, while Iralia forms sweet, floral woody notes on a methyl ionone base. The marriage of these two notes was also used successfully in the Coty perfume, L'Ambre Antique. The Foin Rigaud was a new mown hay synthetic, Flonol is an orange flower-neroli base, Eugenol intensifies the clove like facet of carnation while Bouvardia provided a jasmine effect in the heart of the fragrance. Coralys helped to give the perfume it's powerful Oriental vibe.
A 1931 chemistry book gives the following ingredients to create the L'Origan type perfume:
white carnation flower oil, Orrisin M (by Agfa), Heliotropine, Coumarin, Vanillin, Havannia Base, Ambra Grisea, Jasmine Base, Red Rose Synthetic, Vetivert Bourbon Oil, Bergamot, Musk Ketone
"L'Origan by Coty: Its start is fruity like a peach, but it becomes flowery and we breathe in a bouquet composed of violets, carnations and jasmine fixed by musk and civet."
Scent Profile:
Imagine yourself walking through the sun-drenched fields of Provence, where the air is thick with the scent of blooming flowers and aromatic herbs. Each step reveals a new layer of fragrance, blending seamlessly into the next, creating an olfactory symphony. The top notes of L'Origan by Coty greet you with the fresh, slightly peppery aroma of French basil oil. It's invigorating and crisp, with a hint of herbal warmth that awakens your senses. This is quickly followed by the unique spiciness of cascarilla oil, mingling with earthy and woody undertones. The sharp, citrusy burst of lemon is like a splash of sunshine, bright and zesty, lifting your spirits instantly.
The sweet orange adds a juicy, succulent sweetness to the mix, vibrant and tangy, blending perfectly with the lemon. As you move deeper into the field, the scent of Bourbon ylang ylang flowers, with their exotic, sweet, and slightly spicy aroma, envelops you. This tropical flair is balanced by the floral and citrusy scent of neroli, capturing the essence of blooming orange trees. The ripe, juicy sweetness of peach wafts through the air, adding a soft, velvety fruitiness. A subtle hint of pepper adds a spicy edge, stimulating your senses, while coriander seeds contribute a warm, nutty spice with a touch of citrus. The sweet, tangy aroma of mandarin orange adds a joyful, sparkling quality, and the complex scent of bergamot, both citrusy and floral with a hint of bitterness, adds sophistication.
As you wander further, the middle notes begin to unfold. The warm, spicy scent of clove buds is rich and intense, providing a deep, aromatic heart reminiscent of spiced fields. The soft, powdery sweetness of violet flowers adds elegance and a calming nostalgia. Exotic orchid flowers lend an air of mystery and sophistication, blending seamlessly with the surrounding flora. Orange blossom captures the essence of blooming orchards, sweet and slightly honeyed, while the classic scent of rose is timeless and romantic, rich and slightly spicy. Jasmine flowers exude a heady, sweet, and intoxicating fragrance, enveloping you in a lush, sensual embrace. Nutmeg adds a warm, sweet, and slightly woody spice, and cinnamon brings a sweet, warm, and spicy note that is both inviting and stimulating. The spicy, clove-like scent of carnation is fresh and warm, adding complexity, while orris root provides a powdery, slightly woody aroma with a hint of floral sweetness.
The base notes anchor the fragrance with a deep, lasting impression. The earthy, smoky scent of Bourbon vetiver roots you to the ground, adding a deep, woody, and slightly green note that’s profoundly grounding. Labdanum offers a rich, resinous scent with a sweet, ambery warmth that is both comforting and seductive. The balsamic, sweet, and slightly spicy scent of opoponax adds a resinous depth, evoking ancient incense. Virginian cedar provides a dry, woody note, clean and crisp, balancing the sweetness of the other ingredients. Mexican vanilla adds a creamy, sweet warmth with a comforting, rich aroma that’s both familiar and luxurious. The smooth, creamy, and woody scent of Mysore sandalwood is soothing and exotic, adding a velvety richness.
Venezuelan tonka bean brings a sweet, slightly nutty aroma with hints of vanilla and almond, deepening the fragrance with its gourmand touch. Tibetan civet adds a musky, animalic scent, enhancing the fragrance’s allure and longevity. Indian musk adds a soft, powdery, and slightly sweet scent, enveloping you in a warm, skin-like aroma. Musk ambrette, with its sweet, musky fragrance, adds a natural warmth, enhancing the sensuality of the base notes. Frankincense brings a resinous, slightly spicy, and woody aroma, evoking ancient rituals and a sense of calm spirituality. The sweet, vanilla-like scent of Siamese benzoin is rich and balsamic, adding a smooth, resinous sweetness. Finally, ambergris adds a unique, marine, and slightly animalic scent, with a warm, sweet undertone that enhances the fragrance’s complexity.
As you breathe in the layers of L'Origan, you are transported to the heart of Provence, surrounded by the rich, diverse aromas of its fields. Each note unfolds like a memory, a piece of the past and present intertwined in a harmonious symphony. The fragrance captures the essence of the Provençal countryside, blending traditional aromas with modern fragrance techniques, appealing to a world that cherishes both the elegance of the past and the innovations of the future.
Personal Perfumes:
In the 1920s and 1930s, perfume companies often promoted the idea that women of certain complexions or hair colors would be better suited to specific perfumes. Perfumers suggested that blondes should wear light perfumes, while brunettes should opt for heavy Oriental fragrances.
For blondes, recommended perfumes included Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or. Brunettes were advised to choose from L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. Red-haired women were suggested to wear Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen.
Other perfumers advised women to select perfumes based on their personalities or moods rather than their looks. These marketing techniques were highly effective, resulting in thousands of bottles of perfume being purchased, often by those who needed to buy gifts for others or were unsure of what perfumes to wear.
For the woman of a sunny and joyous type, recommended fragrances included L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette. For the dreamy and elusive type, Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc were suggested. Exotic types were advised to try Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique. For the mysterious types, Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen were recommended. Finally, for those with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments, Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan were ideal choices.
'"The most popular Coty success has been his 'Origan,' in which dominates, miraculously refined, our old liniment or plaster friend origanum, a sort of wild marjoram, but dressed up with discreet half-tone scents, until you have an extremely penetrating, sweet, and troubling perfume, very taking, very tempting, but not, perhaps, of the utterly distinguished good taste which is the final word of a great perfume."
Bottles:
- Marcilhac, R.Lalique Catalogue Raisonne, page 929 of the 2011 French printing, under the reference "Coty 19" (photo 9).
- Utt, Lalique Perfume Bottles, 1990, page 26.
- Jones-North, Commercial Perfume Bottles, 1987, page 36
- 2" tall miniature (0.13 oz)
- 2.5" tall miniature (0.27 oz) - Petite Modele
- 3" tall (0.60 oz)
- 4" tall
- 4.25" tall (1.70 oz)
- 5" tall
- 5.25" tall (3 oz)
- 5.5" tall
- 6" tall
- 6.25" tall
- 6.5" tall
- 8.75" tall
- 2.25" tall - 1/4 oz
- 2.75" tall - 1/2 oz
- 3.75" tall - 1 oz
- 3 oz bottle.
- 2.5" tall.
- 0.80 oz stood 3" tall.
- 3.25" tall.
- 3.75" tall.
"All the other Coty perfumes benefit from a new standard presentation: flat crystal bottle, green and gold plastic stopper, box decorated with "autumn leaves", red, blue and gold. The powders are also presented in a new box decorated with "autumn leaves."
- Emeraude was in a light green
- Chypre was in a lighter green
- L'Aimant in pink
- L'Origan in brown
- Paris in blue
"Coty has redesigned the packages for its L'Origan line to keep up with changing fashion trends. New L'Origan packages Coty has retained the gold leaf motif as well as the metal shaker container for talcum powder".
"GOLD LEAF theme has been retained by Coty in redesigning packages in the L'Origan line. New packages are simple and graceful, with tiny spot labels. Basic colors are delicate pink and gold. Air- Spun powder box is unaltered."
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