Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli c1946

In 1946, Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli emerged onto the perfumery scene, marking a significant moment for the brand post-World War II. This period was characterized by a resurgence in luxury and glamour after the austerity of war years, making it an opportune time for a new fragrance launch. Perfumery itself was undergoing a renaissance, with iconic fragrances becoming associated with both personal luxury and societal status.

Prince Matchabelli's choice of the name "Crown Jewel" for this perfume carries multiple layers of significance. Firstly, it aligns with the brand's royal associations—Prince Matchabelli himself was a Georgian prince, and by naming a fragrance "Crown Jewel," he evoked notions of regal elegance and exclusivity. The term "Crown Jewel" is traditionally used to denote the most precious and valuable item in a collection, often associated with royalty and dynastic heritage. By applying this name to a perfume, Matchabelli positioned his creation as a pinnacle of luxury and refinement, appealing to those who sought to embody sophistication and opulence.

The name "Crown Jewel" would resonate deeply with consumers who aspired to a sense of royalty and elegance in their personal lives. It would evoke images of ornate crowns adorned with rare gems, sumptuous courtly settings, and the allure of precious treasures. Those who wore the perfume would likely feel a sense of elevated status and sophistication, akin to wearing a coveted jewel that enhances their aura of glamour and allure.

In essence, Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli embodied more than just a perfume; it encapsulated a vision of luxury, elegance, and timeless allure. Its name and marketing strategy were crafted to resonate with an audience seeking to adorn themselves with nothing less than a "crown jewel" of fragrance, symbolizing both personal indulgence and cultural sophistication.

Amou Daria by Revillon c1935

The perfume "Amou Daria" was launched in 1935, a time when the world was grappling with the Great Depression. This era, marked by severe economic hardship, paradoxically saw the continued allure of luxury items among the affluent. Luxurious furs remained a symbol of wealth and sophistication, often featured in high-society gatherings and glamorous events. Despite widespread economic struggles, there was a desire for escapism and indulgence in opulence, which was reflected in the fashion and entertainment of the time.

Films during the Great Depression often showcased themes of glamour and elegance as a form of escapism. Hollywood productions frequently depicted leading ladies draped in sumptuous furs, living lives of unattainable luxury that provided a contrast to the harsh realities many faced. The silver screen offered a fantastical world where the economic downturn seemed a distant worry, and this fantasy was epitomized by the lavish costumes and settings that included fur as a staple of high fashion.

Revillon Frères, a renowned French fur and luxury goods company, chose the name "Amou Daria" for their perfume, likely drawing inspiration from the Amu Darya river in Central Asia. The name carries connotations of exoticism and adventure, evoking the remote and mysterious regions where the company sourced their high-quality furs. "Amou Daria" means "River of Love," which enhances its allure by suggesting a romantic and enchanting essence. This name would resonate with the sophisticated, adventurous woman of the time, who might dream of far-off lands and untold stories, even if she never leaves her urban environment.

"Amou Daria" as a name for a perfume conjures images of flowing, untamed rivers and the rugged beauty of Central Asia, blending the natural world's raw allure with the sophistication of French luxury. Women in the 1930s, particularly those in high society, would likely find the name both exotic and enticing, suggesting a blend of the natural and the luxurious. Wearing "Amou Daria" could make them feel as if they were part of an adventurous narrative, adding an air of mystery and sophistication to their presence.

L'Heure Romantique by Corday c1928

"L'Heure Romantique" translates to "The Romantic Hour" in English. The perfume was launched in 1928, a time known for its distinctive blend of sensuality, romance, and intimacy.

In the 1920s, particularly in Western societies, there was a notable shift towards more liberated attitudes regarding love, relationships, and personal expression. The era was characterized by jazz, flappers, and a sense of freedom after the end of World War I. Women's fashion became more daring, and there was a growing emphasis on enjoying life and indulging in pleasures, including romantic ones.

The name "L'Heure Romantique" captures the essence of this period perfectly. It suggests a specific moment in time dedicated to romance and intimacy, evoking images of candlelit dinners, whispered confessions of love, and stolen kisses. During the 1920s, notions of romance were evolving beyond traditional norms, embracing new forms of expression and freedom in relationships.

Blanche Arvoy, the founder of Corday perfumes, likely chose the name "L'Heure Romantique" to tap into the spirit of the times and appeal to women who sought elegance, sensuality, and a touch of allure in their fragrances. The name suggests a perfume designed for a woman who appreciates romance and understands its nuances, someone who values moments of intimacy and wishes to enhance them with a scent that complements the atmosphere.

Women of that era would likely respond positively to such a perfume with a name like "L'Heure Romantique." It would resonate with their desire for sophistication and romance, offering them a way to enhance their allure and create an aura of mystery and sensuality.

The name "L'Heure Romantique" conjures images of moonlit walks, silk dresses, and whispered promises. It evokes feelings of nostalgia for a time when romance was celebrated openly and passionately. In the context of the 1920s, it signifies a departure from Victorian restraint to a more modern, liberated approach to love and relationships.

Overall, "L'Heure Romantique" by Corday not only captures the essence of its time but also embodies the desires and aspirations of women who sought romance and intimacy amidst the changing social landscape of the 1920s.

Fleurs Precieuse by Caron c1910

Fleurs Precieuse by Caron, launched in 1910, is often misunderstood as a single fragrance. In reality, it was a collection named "Les Fleurs Precieuses," encompassing three distinct floral fragrances: Violette Precieuse, Rose Precieuse, and Jacinthe Precieuse. These exquisite scents were crafted by the renowned perfumer Ernest Daltroff, who brought his expertise to the creation of these luxurious fragrances.

An advertisement from 1913 highlights that these fragrances were elegantly presented in "artistic opaque bottles," emphasizing their refined and artistic packaging, which added to their allure. This collection not only showcased Caron's commitment to high-quality perfumery but also their dedication to artistic presentation, making "Les Fleurs Precieuses" a memorable and cherished part of Caron's storied history.

Peut-Etre by Lancome c1937

In 1937, the launch of Lancôme's perfume "Peut-Etre" occurred during a period fraught with contrasting themes of uncertainty and romance, set against the backdrop of the Great Depression. This era was marked by economic hardship and social change, yet amidst this turbulence, there was a pervasive fascination with indecisive romantic narratives in literature, theater, and film. Films of the time often depicted complex relationships and unresolved emotions, mirroring the uncertainties and hopes of the audience during a tumultuous period in history.

The choice of the name "Peut-Etre," which means "perhaps" or "maybe" in French, was likely intended to capture the essence of this uncertain romantic sentiment. The phrase suggests a sense of possibility, hinting at potential outcomes and leaving room for imagination and aspiration. For women of the time, a perfume named "Peut-Etre" would have resonated with their own desires for romance, offering a subtle allure and a touch of mystery.

Perfume, often seen as a personal indulgence and a symbol of femininity, would have been embraced as a means of expressing femininity and sophistication in challenging times. The name "Peut-Etre" itself evokes images of whispered secrets, fleeting glances, and the tantalizing promise of what could be. It carries a poetic ambiguity that invites interpretation and personal connection, making it a compelling choice for a perfume that seeks to evoke emotions and stir the imagination.

La Fuite des Heures/Fleeting Moment by Balenciaga c1947

"La Fuite des Heures" or "Fleeting Moment" by Balenciaga is a classic fragrance that was launched in 1947. It's renowned for its elegant and timeless scent, capturing the essence of fleeting moments with its sophisticated blend of notes. Germaine Cellier, a prominent perfumer known for her bold and innovative creations, was the mastermind behind this iconic fragrance. By 1949, it had made its way to the USA, further solidifying its status as a beloved scent worldwide.

Ave Maria by Prince Matchabelli c1929

Launched in 1929, Ave Maria by Prince Matchabelli carries with it a deeply personal and spiritual significance. The name "Ave Maria," Latin for "Hail Mary," is a reference to the Catholic prayer that honors the Virgin Mary. This prayer has long been associated with themes of purity, reverence, and divine grace, evoking images of serene devotion and spiritual reflection. In naming the perfume Ave Maria, Prince Matchabelli intended to capture these very qualities—offering a fragrance that would resonate with the sacred and the sublime.

The inspiration behind Ave Maria was the performance of Princess Norina Matchabelli, the prince's wife, in the role of Madonna in Max Reinhardt's production of "The Miracle." Georges Matchabelli created the perfume as a tribute to her, translating her inspiring portrayal into a scent that mirrors the reverence and beauty of her performance. In this context, Ave Maria can be seen as more than just a perfume; it is a fragrant homage to the sanctity and grace embodied by the Madonna, as interpreted by Norina.

The word "Ave Maria" conjures a sense of calm, serenity, and an almost ethereal beauty. The name evokes images of candlelit cathedrals, the soft glow of stained glass windows, and the gentle sound of a choir singing in harmony. As a perfume, Ave Maria would be interpreted as a fragrance of quiet elegance and deep emotional resonance—something that transcends mere fashion to touch on the sacred and the timeless. For women of the time, a perfume called Ave Maria would have likely carried an air of refinement and spiritual depth, appealing to those who sought a fragrance that was both worldly and mystical.

Bocages by Lancome c1935

Bocages by Lancôme is a classic fragrance that was introduced in 1935. The name "Bocages" translates to "Groves" in French, evoking images of lush, green landscapes filled with trees and shrubs. This fragrance reflects the natural and serene qualities associated with such environments. Lancôme, a renowned French luxury perfumes and cosmetics house, has a long history of creating elegant and sophisticated scents, and Bocages is a part of this esteemed legacy.

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric c1946

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric: launched in 1946.

Garwood's Standard Perfumes

Philadelphia; claimed established in 1852; most likely c1873; a subsidiary of Schandein & Lind in c1900; launched a range of fragrances in the first quarter of 20th century.

Monsieur de Rauch by Madeleine de Rauch c1950

Monsieur de Rauch, a fragrance attributed to the fashion house of Madeleine de Rauch, was launched in either 1950 or 1966, according to the Dictionnaire des Parfums (1972-1973 edition). Madeleine de Rauch, the creative force behind the brand, was a French couturier who ventured into the world of perfumery, much like many designers of the time. Her haute couture house was known for its elegance and understated luxury, which naturally carried over into her fragrances. As a designer, she sought to reflect her refined aesthetic not only in fashion but also in scent, offering perfumes that resonated with sophistication and class.

The choice of the name "Monsieur de Rauch" appears to be deeply rooted in a sense of heritage and prestige. In French, "Monsieur" simply means "Mister," a formal title of respect for men, while "de Rauch" refers to the designer's family name. In terms of pronunciation, "Monsieur de Rauch" would sound like Muh-syuh duh Rosh, with the final "ch" pronounced like the “sh” in “shush.” The use of "Monsieur" in the fragrance's name evokes an image of an elegant, well-groomed gentleman, possibly one of aristocratic lineage or refined taste. The name conjures feelings of respect, formality, and timeless masculinity, suggesting that this fragrance was intended for a man who values sophistication and carries himself with dignity.

For men of the period in which Monsieur de Rauch was released, the fragrance likely conveyed a sense of identity. During the mid-20th century, men's fragrances were often marketed to reflect ideals of strength, maturity, and refinement. A scent named "Monsieur de Rauch" would appeal to the gentleman who wished to exude a sense of command and elegance. The name suggests not only a fragrance but an entire persona — someone who appreciates the finer things in life, perhaps reminiscent of a French aristocrat or a man of business and social standing.

When translated into a scent, "Monsieur de Rauch" was created by master perfumers Raymond Chaillan and Jacques Bercia. It is described as a refreshing yet bittersweet citrus-woody fragrance, with prominent woody and lemony notes. This blend suggests a balance of sharpness and warmth, with the citrus offering a clean, invigorating opening, and the woods adding a depth that speaks to masculinity and stability. The bittersweet quality points to a sense of maturity, making the fragrance suitable for a man who is confident and complex.

Incanto by Simonetta c1955

Incanto by Simonetta: launched in 1955. Perfume created by Simonetta Visconti (Donna Simonetta Fabiani), an Italian fashion designer.

Marie Earle Perfumes

Established in 5th Avenue New York in 1910.

Bill Blass by Bill Blass c1978

Bill Blass for Women was launched in 1978 as a collaborative creation between the renowned American fashion designer Bill Blass and the global cosmetics giant Revlon. Bill Blass, a prominent figure in the fashion industry, was celebrated for his sophisticated and elegant designs, which were characterized by their classic American style and understated luxury. His foray into the world of fragrance with this perfume reflected his deep understanding of elegance and refinement.

The fragrance was introduced during a period when Bill Blass was solidifying his reputation as a key player in American fashion. Known for his high-profile designs and glamorous approach, Blass's foray into perfume was a natural extension of his brand's commitment to luxury and sophistication. The collaboration with Revlon, a company with a strong legacy in beauty and personal care products, was a strategic move that allowed Blass to leverage Revlon's extensive distribution network and expertise in fragrance creation.

Bill Blass for Women was designed to embody the same qualities that defined Blass's fashion creations: elegance, sophistication, and a touch of modernity. The perfume was crafted to appeal to women who appreciated classic beauty with a contemporary edge, offering a scent profile that was both refined and timeless. The fragrance's composition was intended to evoke a sense of luxury and sophistication, much like Blass's fashion designs, and it quickly became a notable addition to the world of high-end women's fragrances.

The association with Revlon ensured that Bill Blass for Women was well-received in the market, benefiting from Revlon's strong marketing and distribution capabilities. The perfume's launch in 1978 marked a significant moment in both Blass's career and in the fragrance industry, highlighting the intersection of high fashion and high fragrance.

Colgate Perfumes

Colgate & Co. was located at 55 John Street New York. Established 1806. Richard M. Colgate, Gilbert Colgate, Sidney M. Colgate, Austen Colgate.

Key Dates:

• 1806: Company is founded by William Colgate in New York to make starch, soap, and candles.
• 1857: After founder's death, company becomes known as Colgate & Company.
• 1873: Toothpaste is first marketed.
• 1896: Collapsible tubes for toothpaste are introduced.
• 1898: B.J. Johnson Soap Company (later renamed Palmolive Company) introduces Palmolive soap.
• 1910: Colgate moves from original location to Jersey City, New Jersey.
• 1926: Palmolive merges with Peet Brothers, creating Palmolive-Peet Company.
• 1928: Colgate and Palmolive-Peet merge, forming Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.
• 1947: Fab detergent and Ajax cleanser are introduced.
• 1953: Company changes its name to Colgate-Palmolive Company.
• 1956: Corporate headquarters shifts back to New York.
• 1966: Palmolive dishwashing liquid is introduced.
• 1967: Sales top $1 billion.
• 1968: Colgate toothpaste is reformulated with fluoride; Ultra Brite is introduced.
• 1976: Hill's Pet Products is purchased.
• 1987: The Softsoap brand of liquid soap is acquired.
• 1992: The Mennen Company is acquired; Total toothpaste is introduced overseas.
• 1995: Latin American firm Kolynos Oral Care is acquired; Colgate-Palmolive undergoes major restructuring.
• 1997: Total toothpaste is launched in the United States; Colgate takes lead in domestic toothpaste market.
• 2004: Company acquires European oral care firm GABA Holding AG; major restructuring is launched.

Colgate Company of Jersey City, NJ from 1879 to 1959.

Colgate & Company had been a pioneer in establishing international operations, creating a Canadian subsidiary in 1913 and one in France in 1920. In the early 1920s the firm expanded into Australia, the United Kingdom, Germany, and Mexico. Colgate or its successor firm next created subsidiaries in the Philippines, Brazil, Argentina, and South Africa in the late 1920s. In 1937 the company moved into India and by the end of the 1940s had operations in most of South America. By 1939 Colgate-Palmolive-Peet's sales hit $100 million.

What are Marine Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Marine:

themes are one of the newest members of the fragrance family. These notes are also called aquatic, oceanic, aqueous  and these fragrances evoke the odor of fresh sea air. It is virtually impossible to capture the true essence of oceanic air, so to create this special note, the ingredient Calone is added.

Other notes are used to evoke the watery scent of freshly fallen rain these include florals such as water lily, water hyacinths, lotus, as well as fruits and vegetables such as melon, and cucumber.

Fragrances that are classified as Marine are:

• Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani
• Aqua Motu by Comptoir Sud Pacifique
• Aquawoman by Rochas
• Aspen by Coty
• Bleu Marine by Pierre Cardin
• Charlie White by Revlon
• Cool Water Woman by Davidoff
• Dune by Christian Dior
• Escape by Calvin Klein
• Flore by Carolina Herrera
• Ghost Myst by Coty
• Inis by Innisfree
• Kenzo Pour Homme by Kenzo
• L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme by Issey Miyake
• Nautica by Nautica
• Nilang by Lalique
• Ocean Dream by Giorgio Beverly Hills
• Polo by Ralph Lauren
• Ralph Lauren Blue
• Sunflowers by Elizabeth Arden
• Sunwater by Lancaster
• 360 degrees by Perry Ellis

Vers Toi by Worth c1934

Vers Toi by Worth: launched in 1934. Originally created by Maurice Blanchet.  The name means "Towards You" in French.

What are Citrus Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Citrus: 

also known as hesperidic, have the familiar, fresh, crisp scents of lemons, oranges, tangerines and grapefruit peels, as well as the more exotic of scents of bergamot, petit grain and neroli (orange blossom). Eau de Cologne is the classic citrus scent. Citrus notes are generally found in men’s colognes and women’s sporty type perfumes or colognes. There are subdivisions of classifications in this family and they are:floral chypre citrus, citrus spicy, citrus woody, citrus amber, and citrus aromatic.

Fragrances that are classified as Citrus are:

• Armani by Giorgio Armani
• Boss by Hugo Boss
• California for Men by Max Factor
• Calyx by Prescriptives
• Cool Water for Men by Davidoff
• Eau de Courreges
• Eau de Guerlain
• Eau de Rochas
• Eau de Patou by Jean Patou
• Eau Fraiche by Christian Dior
• Eau Sauvage
• Guess by Georges Marciano
• Herrera for Men by Carolina Herrera
• Imperiale by Guerlain
• Lagerfeld Photo by Karl Lagerfeld
• Lauder for Men by Estee Lauder
• Listen for Men by Herb Alpert
• Liz Claiborne by Liz Claiborne
• Monsieur de Givenchy
• Nobile by Gucci
• O de Lancôme by Lancome
• Poison by Christian Dior
• Santa Fe for Women
• Tiffany for Men by Tiffany & Co
• Tuscany per Uomo by Aramis
• 4711

Asja by Fendi c1991

Asja by Fendi: launched in 1991, in association with Parma. It was created by Jean Guichard.

Dolce Vita by Christian Dior c1994

Dolce Vita by Christian Dior: created by Pierre Bourdon and Maurice Roger and launched in 1994.