4 Vents by Revillon c1950

In 1950, when Revillon launched the perfume "4 Vents" in France, the world was experiencing a period of recovery and transformation following the end of World War II. Europe, in particular, was rebuilding its cities, economies, and societies. This era was marked by a sense of optimism and a desire for new beginnings. The fashion and beauty industries were thriving, with a renewed emphasis on luxury and elegance. By the time "4 Vents" was introduced to the United States in 1952, America was in the midst of a post-war economic boom, characterized by consumerism, suburban growth, and a fascination with new products and innovations.

The name "4 Vents" translates to "Four Winds" in English and is derived from French. Revillon, a Parisian furrier and luxury brand, chose this name to evoke the idea of global reach and universal appeal. The phrase "four winds" suggests something that spans across the entire world, touching every corner and bringing a sense of adventure and exploration.

Revillon likely chose the name "4 Vents" to convey a sense of elegance and sophistication that transcends geographical boundaries. The notion of the four winds can be associated with the four cardinal directions—north, south, east, and west—implying a fragrance that is as diverse and encompassing as the winds themselves. It suggests a perfume that captures the essence of various cultures and landscapes, appealing to a cosmopolitan clientele.

Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli c1946

In 1946, Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli emerged onto the perfumery scene, marking a significant moment for the brand post-World War II. This period was characterized by a resurgence in luxury and glamour after the austerity of war years, making it an opportune time for a new fragrance launch. Perfumery itself was undergoing a renaissance, with iconic fragrances becoming associated with both personal luxury and societal status.

Prince Matchabelli's choice of the name "Crown Jewel" for this perfume carries multiple layers of significance. Firstly, it aligns with the brand's royal associations—Prince Matchabelli himself was a Georgian prince, and by naming a fragrance "Crown Jewel," he evoked notions of regal elegance and exclusivity. The term "Crown Jewel" is traditionally used to denote the most precious and valuable item in a collection, often associated with royalty and dynastic heritage. By applying this name to a perfume, Matchabelli positioned his creation as a pinnacle of luxury and refinement, appealing to those who sought to embody sophistication and opulence.

The name "Crown Jewel" would resonate deeply with consumers who aspired to a sense of royalty and elegance in their personal lives. It would evoke images of ornate crowns adorned with rare gems, sumptuous courtly settings, and the allure of precious treasures. Those who wore the perfume would likely feel a sense of elevated status and sophistication, akin to wearing a coveted jewel that enhances their aura of glamour and allure.

In essence, Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli embodied more than just a perfume; it encapsulated a vision of luxury, elegance, and timeless allure. Its name and marketing strategy were crafted to resonate with an audience seeking to adorn themselves with nothing less than a "crown jewel" of fragrance, symbolizing both personal indulgence and cultural sophistication.

Amou Daria by Revillon c1935

The perfume "Amou Daria" was launched in 1935, a time when the world was grappling with the Great Depression. This era, marked by severe economic hardship, paradoxically saw the continued allure of luxury items among the affluent. Luxurious furs remained a symbol of wealth and sophistication, often featured in high-society gatherings and glamorous events. Despite widespread economic struggles, there was a desire for escapism and indulgence in opulence, which was reflected in the fashion and entertainment of the time.

Films during the Great Depression often showcased themes of glamour and elegance as a form of escapism. Hollywood productions frequently depicted leading ladies draped in sumptuous furs, living lives of unattainable luxury that provided a contrast to the harsh realities many faced. The silver screen offered a fantastical world where the economic downturn seemed a distant worry, and this fantasy was epitomized by the lavish costumes and settings that included fur as a staple of high fashion.

Revillon Frères, a renowned French fur and luxury goods company, chose the name "Amou Daria" for their perfume, likely drawing inspiration from the Amu Darya river in Central Asia. The name carries connotations of exoticism and adventure, evoking the remote and mysterious regions where the company sourced their high-quality furs. "Amou Daria" means "River of Love," which enhances its allure by suggesting a romantic and enchanting essence. This name would resonate with the sophisticated, adventurous woman of the time, who might dream of far-off lands and untold stories, even if she never leaves her urban environment.

"Amou Daria" as a name for a perfume conjures images of flowing, untamed rivers and the rugged beauty of Central Asia, blending the natural world's raw allure with the sophistication of French luxury. Women in the 1930s, particularly those in high society, would likely find the name both exotic and enticing, suggesting a blend of the natural and the luxurious. Wearing "Amou Daria" could make them feel as if they were part of an adventurous narrative, adding an air of mystery and sophistication to their presence.

L'Heure Romantique by Corday c1928

"L'Heure Romantique" translates to "The Romantic Hour" in English. The perfume was launched in 1928, a time known for its distinctive blend of sensuality, romance, and intimacy.

In the 1920s, particularly in Western societies, there was a notable shift towards more liberated attitudes regarding love, relationships, and personal expression. The era was characterized by jazz, flappers, and a sense of freedom after the end of World War I. Women's fashion became more daring, and there was a growing emphasis on enjoying life and indulging in pleasures, including romantic ones.

The name "L'Heure Romantique" captures the essence of this period perfectly. It suggests a specific moment in time dedicated to romance and intimacy, evoking images of candlelit dinners, whispered confessions of love, and stolen kisses. During the 1920s, notions of romance were evolving beyond traditional norms, embracing new forms of expression and freedom in relationships.

Blanche Arvoy, the founder of Corday perfumes, likely chose the name "L'Heure Romantique" to tap into the spirit of the times and appeal to women who sought elegance, sensuality, and a touch of allure in their fragrances. The name suggests a perfume designed for a woman who appreciates romance and understands its nuances, someone who values moments of intimacy and wishes to enhance them with a scent that complements the atmosphere.

Women of that era would likely respond positively to such a perfume with a name like "L'Heure Romantique." It would resonate with their desire for sophistication and romance, offering them a way to enhance their allure and create an aura of mystery and sensuality.

The name "L'Heure Romantique" conjures images of moonlit walks, silk dresses, and whispered promises. It evokes feelings of nostalgia for a time when romance was celebrated openly and passionately. In the context of the 1920s, it signifies a departure from Victorian restraint to a more modern, liberated approach to love and relationships.

Overall, "L'Heure Romantique" by Corday not only captures the essence of its time but also embodies the desires and aspirations of women who sought romance and intimacy amidst the changing social landscape of the 1920s.

Fleurs Precieuse by Caron c1910

Fleurs Precieuse by Caron, launched in 1910, is often misunderstood as a single fragrance. In reality, it was a collection named "Les Fleurs Precieuses," encompassing three distinct floral fragrances: Violette Precieuse, Rose Precieuse, and Jacinthe Precieuse. These exquisite scents were crafted by the renowned perfumer Ernest Daltroff, who brought his expertise to the creation of these luxurious fragrances.

An advertisement from 1913 highlights that these fragrances were elegantly presented in "artistic opaque bottles," emphasizing their refined and artistic packaging, which added to their allure. This collection not only showcased Caron's commitment to high-quality perfumery but also their dedication to artistic presentation, making "Les Fleurs Precieuses" a memorable and cherished part of Caron's storied history.

Peut-Etre by Lancome c1937

In 1937, the launch of Lancôme's perfume "Peut-Etre" occurred during a period fraught with contrasting themes of uncertainty and romance, set against the backdrop of the Great Depression. This era was marked by economic hardship and social change, yet amidst this turbulence, there was a pervasive fascination with indecisive romantic narratives in literature, theater, and film. Films of the time often depicted complex relationships and unresolved emotions, mirroring the uncertainties and hopes of the audience during a tumultuous period in history.

The choice of the name "Peut-Etre," which means "perhaps" or "maybe" in French, was likely intended to capture the essence of this uncertain romantic sentiment. The phrase suggests a sense of possibility, hinting at potential outcomes and leaving room for imagination and aspiration. For women of the time, a perfume named "Peut-Etre" would have resonated with their own desires for romance, offering a subtle allure and a touch of mystery.

Perfume, often seen as a personal indulgence and a symbol of femininity, would have been embraced as a means of expressing femininity and sophistication in challenging times. The name "Peut-Etre" itself evokes images of whispered secrets, fleeting glances, and the tantalizing promise of what could be. It carries a poetic ambiguity that invites interpretation and personal connection, making it a compelling choice for a perfume that seeks to evoke emotions and stir the imagination.

La Fuite des Heures/Fleeting Moment by Balenciaga c1947

"La Fuite des Heures" or "Fleeting Moment" by Balenciaga is a classic fragrance that was launched in 1947. It's renowned for its elegant and timeless scent, capturing the essence of fleeting moments with its sophisticated blend of notes. Germaine Cellier, a prominent perfumer known for her bold and innovative creations, was the mastermind behind this iconic fragrance. By 1949, it had made its way to the USA, further solidifying its status as a beloved scent worldwide.

Ave Maria by Prince Matchabelli c1929

Launched in 1929, Ave Maria by Prince Matchabelli carries with it a deeply personal and spiritual significance. The name "Ave Maria," Latin for "Hail Mary," is a reference to the Catholic prayer that honors the Virgin Mary. This prayer has long been associated with themes of purity, reverence, and divine grace, evoking images of serene devotion and spiritual reflection. In naming the perfume Ave Maria, Prince Matchabelli intended to capture these very qualities—offering a fragrance that would resonate with the sacred and the sublime.

The inspiration behind Ave Maria was the performance of Princess Norina Matchabelli, the prince's wife, in the role of Madonna in Max Reinhardt's production of "The Miracle." Georges Matchabelli created the perfume as a tribute to her, translating her inspiring portrayal into a scent that mirrors the reverence and beauty of her performance. In this context, Ave Maria can be seen as more than just a perfume; it is a fragrant homage to the sanctity and grace embodied by the Madonna, as interpreted by Norina.

The word "Ave Maria" conjures a sense of calm, serenity, and an almost ethereal beauty. The name evokes images of candlelit cathedrals, the soft glow of stained glass windows, and the gentle sound of a choir singing in harmony. As a perfume, Ave Maria would be interpreted as a fragrance of quiet elegance and deep emotional resonance—something that transcends mere fashion to touch on the sacred and the timeless. For women of the time, a perfume called Ave Maria would have likely carried an air of refinement and spiritual depth, appealing to those who sought a fragrance that was both worldly and mystical.

Bocages by Lancome c1935

Bocages by Lancôme is a classic fragrance that was introduced in 1935. The name "Bocages" translates to "Groves" in French, evoking images of lush, green landscapes filled with trees and shrubs. This fragrance reflects the natural and serene qualities associated with such environments. Lancôme, a renowned French luxury perfumes and cosmetics house, has a long history of creating elegant and sophisticated scents, and Bocages is a part of this esteemed legacy.

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric c1946

Dark Brilliance by Lentheric: launched in 1946.

Garwood's Standard Perfumes

Philadelphia; claimed established in 1852; most likely c1873; a subsidiary of Schandein & Lind in c1900; launched a range of fragrances in the first quarter of 20th century.

Monsieur de Rauch by Madeleine de Rauch c1950

Monsieur de Rauch, a fragrance attributed to the fashion house of Madeleine de Rauch, was launched in either 1950 or 1966, according to the Dictionnaire des Parfums (1972-1973 edition). Madeleine de Rauch, the creative force behind the brand, was a French couturier who ventured into the world of perfumery, much like many designers of the time. Her haute couture house was known for its elegance and understated luxury, which naturally carried over into her fragrances. As a designer, she sought to reflect her refined aesthetic not only in fashion but also in scent, offering perfumes that resonated with sophistication and class.

The choice of the name "Monsieur de Rauch" appears to be deeply rooted in a sense of heritage and prestige. In French, "Monsieur" simply means "Mister," a formal title of respect for men, while "de Rauch" refers to the designer's family name. In terms of pronunciation, "Monsieur de Rauch" would sound like Muh-syuh duh Rosh, with the final "ch" pronounced like the “sh” in “shush.” The use of "Monsieur" in the fragrance's name evokes an image of an elegant, well-groomed gentleman, possibly one of aristocratic lineage or refined taste. The name conjures feelings of respect, formality, and timeless masculinity, suggesting that this fragrance was intended for a man who values sophistication and carries himself with dignity.

For men of the period in which Monsieur de Rauch was released, the fragrance likely conveyed a sense of identity. During the mid-20th century, men's fragrances were often marketed to reflect ideals of strength, maturity, and refinement. A scent named "Monsieur de Rauch" would appeal to the gentleman who wished to exude a sense of command and elegance. The name suggests not only a fragrance but an entire persona — someone who appreciates the finer things in life, perhaps reminiscent of a French aristocrat or a man of business and social standing.

When translated into a scent, "Monsieur de Rauch" was created by master perfumers Raymond Chaillan and Jacques Bercia. It is described as a refreshing yet bittersweet citrus-woody fragrance, with prominent woody and lemony notes. This blend suggests a balance of sharpness and warmth, with the citrus offering a clean, invigorating opening, and the woods adding a depth that speaks to masculinity and stability. The bittersweet quality points to a sense of maturity, making the fragrance suitable for a man who is confident and complex.

Incanto by Simonetta c1955

Incanto by Simonetta: launched in 1955. Perfume created by Simonetta Visconti (Donna Simonetta Fabiani), an Italian fashion designer.

Marie Earle Perfumes

Established in 5th Avenue New York in 1910.

Bill Blass by Bill Blass c1978

Bill Blass for Women was launched in 1978 as a collaborative creation between the renowned American fashion designer Bill Blass and the global cosmetics giant Revlon. Bill Blass, a prominent figure in the fashion industry, was celebrated for his sophisticated and elegant designs, which were characterized by their classic American style and understated luxury. His foray into the world of fragrance with this perfume reflected his deep understanding of elegance and refinement.

The fragrance was introduced during a period when Bill Blass was solidifying his reputation as a key player in American fashion. Known for his high-profile designs and glamorous approach, Blass's foray into perfume was a natural extension of his brand's commitment to luxury and sophistication. The collaboration with Revlon, a company with a strong legacy in beauty and personal care products, was a strategic move that allowed Blass to leverage Revlon's extensive distribution network and expertise in fragrance creation.

Bill Blass for Women was designed to embody the same qualities that defined Blass's fashion creations: elegance, sophistication, and a touch of modernity. The perfume was crafted to appeal to women who appreciated classic beauty with a contemporary edge, offering a scent profile that was both refined and timeless. The fragrance's composition was intended to evoke a sense of luxury and sophistication, much like Blass's fashion designs, and it quickly became a notable addition to the world of high-end women's fragrances.

The association with Revlon ensured that Bill Blass for Women was well-received in the market, benefiting from Revlon's strong marketing and distribution capabilities. The perfume's launch in 1978 marked a significant moment in both Blass's career and in the fragrance industry, highlighting the intersection of high fashion and high fragrance.

Colgate Perfumes

Colgate & Co. was located at 55 John Street New York. Established 1806. Richard M. Colgate, Gilbert Colgate, Sidney M. Colgate, Austen Colgate.

Key Dates:

• 1806: Company is founded by William Colgate in New York to make starch, soap, and candles.
• 1857: After founder's death, company becomes known as Colgate & Company.
• 1873: Toothpaste is first marketed.
• 1896: Collapsible tubes for toothpaste are introduced.
• 1898: B.J. Johnson Soap Company (later renamed Palmolive Company) introduces Palmolive soap.
• 1910: Colgate moves from original location to Jersey City, New Jersey.
• 1926: Palmolive merges with Peet Brothers, creating Palmolive-Peet Company.
• 1928: Colgate and Palmolive-Peet merge, forming Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.
• 1947: Fab detergent and Ajax cleanser are introduced.
• 1953: Company changes its name to Colgate-Palmolive Company.
• 1956: Corporate headquarters shifts back to New York.
• 1966: Palmolive dishwashing liquid is introduced.
• 1967: Sales top $1 billion.
• 1968: Colgate toothpaste is reformulated with fluoride; Ultra Brite is introduced.
• 1976: Hill's Pet Products is purchased.
• 1987: The Softsoap brand of liquid soap is acquired.
• 1992: The Mennen Company is acquired; Total toothpaste is introduced overseas.
• 1995: Latin American firm Kolynos Oral Care is acquired; Colgate-Palmolive undergoes major restructuring.
• 1997: Total toothpaste is launched in the United States; Colgate takes lead in domestic toothpaste market.
• 2004: Company acquires European oral care firm GABA Holding AG; major restructuring is launched.

Colgate Company of Jersey City, NJ from 1879 to 1959.

Colgate & Company had been a pioneer in establishing international operations, creating a Canadian subsidiary in 1913 and one in France in 1920. In the early 1920s the firm expanded into Australia, the United Kingdom, Germany, and Mexico. Colgate or its successor firm next created subsidiaries in the Philippines, Brazil, Argentina, and South Africa in the late 1920s. In 1937 the company moved into India and by the end of the 1940s had operations in most of South America. By 1939 Colgate-Palmolive-Peet's sales hit $100 million.

What are Marine Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Marine:

Marine fragrances, one of the freshest and most evocative families in perfumery, are designed to capture the invigorating essence of the ocean and the freshness of the sea breeze. The marine note is often described as "aquatic" or "oceanic," transporting the wearer to the scent of saltwater, fresh air, and the tranquil scent of the ocean. This theme emerged as one of the newest in the perfume world, driven by the desire to evoke the natural freshness of the seaside. However, capturing the true essence of ocean air is virtually impossible, so perfumers rely on specific ingredients to recreate this watery sensation.

One of the most important ingredients in marine fragrances is Calone, a synthetic molecule that has a distinct aquatic aroma. As you breathe in the scent of Calone, you are hit with an almost metallic sharpness, like the clean, brisk air just before a storm. It feels as though you're standing on the edge of a cliff, with the ocean spray gently misting the air around you. The scent of Calone is at once refreshing and soothing, reminiscent of a cool ocean breeze brushing past your skin, mingling with the salty sea air.

To enhance the oceanic character, ambergris is often used. This material, derived from the digestive system of sperm whales, offers a rich, musky, and slightly sweet scent, which balances out the sharper notes of Calone. Ambergris gives marine perfumes depth and complexity, adding a warm, almost earthy undertone that simulates the feel of ancient sea air, deep and weathered by time. As you inhale, you experience the sensation of being on a beach, with the sun-warmed sand beneath your feet, the vastness of the ocean stretching out in front of you, and the deep, calming fragrance of ambergris surrounding you.

Vers Toi by Worth c1934

Vers Toi by Worth: launched in 1934. Originally created by Maurice Blanchet.  The name means "Towards You" in French.

What are Citrus Fragrances?

Citrus fragrances, also known as hesperidic perfumes, are celebrated for their refreshing, zesty, and invigorating qualities. Derived from the peel of citrus fruits, these fragrances immediately evoke feelings of cleanliness, brightness, and vitality. The primary notes in citrus fragrances come from common fruits like lemons, oranges, tangerines, and grapefruit. These fruits provide a fresh, sharp, and often tangy opening to the fragrance, with their natural zestiness cutting through the air like a burst of sunlight. The scent of freshly peeled fruit, its rind releasing a clean, tart aroma, is both energizing and refreshing, making citrus scents popular in spring and summer.

More exotic citrus fruits such as bergamot, citron, yuzu, and petitgrain introduce unique twists to the classic citrus profile. Bergamot, for instance, brings a slightly floral, aromatic edge to the typical citrus tang, with its bittersweet yet uplifting fragrance. Known for its use in Earl Grey tea, bergamot is a sophisticated citrus, bright yet with a subtle complexity that elevates it beyond the common orange. Citron, with its bold, slightly sweet aroma, is another exotic citrus that is often used in high-end perfumes for its clean, crisp scent. Yuzu, a Japanese citrus, offers an almost effervescent quality, with a vibrant, tangy fragrance that is refreshing without being overpowering. Petitgrain, extracted from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, provides a more herbal and woody citrus note, which blends beautifully with other citrus fruits.

The highly aromatic neroli, which is distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, is another key player in citrus fragrances. Neroli adds a soft, sweet floral quality to the citrus blend, offering a light, almost honeyed undertone to balance the sharper, more tangy citrus notes. The presence of neroli in a citrus fragrance often imparts a sense of lightness, elegance, and freshness, reminiscent of blooming orange trees in full flower.

The classic Eau de Cologne is one of the most iconic examples of a citrus fragrance. Typically light and crisp, it features a dominant citrus profile, with lemon and orange notes at the forefront. Eau de Cologne's versatility and refreshing qualities have made it a timeless choice for both men and women, evoking an image of cleanliness and vitality.

Citrus fragrances are not confined to just the fresh, fruity qualities; they can also be combined with various other elements to create distinctive olfactory experiences. The floral chypre citrus blend merges the tangy brightness of citrus with the soft, powdery notes of floral and mossy chypre bases, offering a fragrance that is both refreshing and sophisticated. The citrus spicy variation introduces warmth and depth with the addition of spicy notes like ginger, cinnamon, or cardamom, giving the fragrance a more dynamic and complex character. Citrus woody fragrances combine the crisp citrus notes with grounding woody elements like sandalwood or cedar, offering a balanced scent that is both fresh and earthy. Citrus amber blends the sharpness of citrus with the warm, resinous richness of amber, creating a fragrance that feels radiant yet cozy. Lastly, citrus aromatic fragrances incorporate herbs and aromatic spices, adding a green, herbal edge to the citrus profile, often with notes of lavender, rosemary, or thyme, offering a fragrance that is herbaceous and invigorating.

In conclusion, citrus fragrances stand out for their bright, refreshing, and invigorating qualities, making them perfect for those seeking a burst of energy in their perfumes. Whether pure and simple or complexly blended with spices, florals, woods, or amber, citrus fragrances offer endless variations, each capturing the essence of sun-drenched orchards and bright, zesty citrus fruits.

Fragrances that are classified as Citrus are:

• Armani by Giorgio Armani
• Boss by Hugo Boss
• California for Men by Max Factor
• Calyx by Prescriptives
• Cool Water for Men by Davidoff
• Eau de Courreges
• Eau de Guerlain
• Eau de Rochas
• Eau de Patou by Jean Patou
• Eau Fraiche by Christian Dior
• Eau Sauvage
• Guess by Georges Marciano
• Herrera for Men by Carolina Herrera
• Imperiale by Guerlain
• Lagerfeld Photo by Karl Lagerfeld
• Lauder for Men by Estee Lauder
• Listen for Men by Herb Alpert
• Liz Claiborne by Liz Claiborne
• Monsieur de Givenchy
• Nobile by Gucci
• O de Lancôme by Lancome
• Poison by Christian Dior
• Santa Fe for Women
• Tiffany for Men by Tiffany & Co
• Tuscany per Uomo by Aramis
• 4711

Asja by Fendi c1991

Launched in 1991, Asja by Fendi emerged during a time of transition and bold reinvention in both fashion and fragrance. Created in collaboration with the Italian perfume house Parma and crafted by master perfumer Jean Guichard, Asja was envisioned as a soft oriental floral — a scent designed to be sensuous yet wearable throughout the day. The name "Asja" itself carries an exotic, almost mysterious allure. Derived from the Slavic variation of the name "Asia," it is pronounced Ah-syah — the "j" softly gliding like a whisper. The name evokes images of faraway lands, rich textiles, and a romanticized notion of the East, which was often associated with warmth, sensuality, and opulence in Western culture.

The early 1990s marked a pivotal shift from the excess and extravagance of the 1980s to a more refined, international sensibility. Fashion began to embrace minimalism — designers like Calvin Klein and Jil Sander championed sleek, pared-down silhouettes — yet there remained a longing for indulgence and luxury. Fragrances reflected this balance, moving away from the bombastic, powerhouse scents of the previous decade to softer, more nuanced compositions that still retained a sense of sophistication. Asja captured this duality beautifully.

Women of the time, navigating a world where professional ambition and personal freedom were increasingly celebrated, might have found the name "Asja" intriguing — modern and worldly without feeling pretentious. It spoke to a woman who was cosmopolitan, confident, and comfortable blending strength with femininity. The fragrance itself mirrored this balance. Asja was designed to reinterpret the traditional oriental category, making it lighter, fresher, and more versatile. Doreen Bollhoffer, Elizabeth Arden’s manager of fragrance development in 1995, explained this distinction: “It differs from typical Oriental fragrances through its fresher top note and lighter wood notes — sandalwood as opposed to patchouli, for example. And vanilla. ‘It recalls a certain comfort level.’