Vintage Counterfeit Perfumes and Fantasy Fakes

During the 20th century, the perfume industry was rife with counterfeiting at every turn. There was some trickery going on in the 1930s-1950s regarding designer named perfumes. I can find famous names on bogus labels for perfumes in bottles that you would never see used by that brand. Various con men had boxes and labels printed up, then decanted or adulterated, refilling cheaper bottles with even cheaper perfume, then slapping the newly printed labels on them, and passing them off as genuine.

I have created a comprehensive guide for fake vintage perfumes going back to the 1920s and into the 1970s. Much of the crucial information I have gathered has been revealed nowhere else and it can answer a lot of questions regarding so called "rare" editions or bottles of designer perfumes. 

Discussed in this guide are rebottlers, fake pricing schemes, and outright counterfeits. A significant portion of the guide is devoted to what I call "fantasy fakes." Fantasy fakes are, in my own parlance and definition, is the usage of bottles and labels that a genuine perfumery brand would have never used. This also includes names of perfumes that were never part of their catalog such as "Ce Soir Ou Jamais" by Christian Dior. I have done extensive research on these in order to determine whether they are genuine or fake. You might be surprised, delighted or even disappointed at the information I uncovered.

Before you shell out hundreds for a rare "Poiret" perfume bottle, please see my guide first!

Navy by Cover Girl c1990

Navy was launched in 1990 in collaboration with Cover Girl, a division of the Noxell Corporation. Procter & Gamble's acquisition of Noxell in October 1989 paved the way for this expansion of their product portfolio, with Navy perfume becoming one of the notable additions. This fragrance was quite popular during its time and became a staple for many fragrance enthusiasts.

Incognito by Noxell c1992

Incognito by Noxell: launched in 1992 in association with Cover Girl, a division of the Noxell Corp. Procter & Gamble was looking to expand its portfolio and bought Noxell in October 1989 and in turn now owned Cover Girl. The name Incognito was originally filed for a trademark in 1989 by the Noxell Corp. and granted a trademark in 1990. 

It's fascinating how the evolution of corporate acquisitions and brand strategies can shape the cosmetics industry. Incognito by Noxell seems to have a rich history intertwined with the business maneuvers of Procter & Gamble. It's intriguing how a brand's identity can transition through different ownerships while still maintaining its essence. 

Bridal Bouquet by Dana c1961

Bridal Bouquet by Dana: launched in 1961. Some of my sources state that it was first launched in 1935, but I cannot find any period advertisements to confirm this.

Kali by Dana c1943

 Kali by Dana was introduced in 1943, a time when the world was engulfed in the turmoil of World War II. In the midst of such chaos, the choice of the name "Kali" is particularly evocative, as it draws from the rich tapestry of Hindu mythology. The name Kali originates from the Sanskrit word "kāla," which means "black" or "time," and it is associated with the Hindu goddess Kali, a figure often depicted in duality. On one hand, she embodies destruction and darkness, famously known for slaying demons and symbolizing the fierce aspects of feminine power. On the other hand, she is revered as a compassionate mother-goddess, a protector who aids her devotees. This duality evokes a spectrum of emotions—from fear and awe to comfort and nurturing—making the name Kali both powerful and complex.

In terms of scent, Kali was classified as an oriental fragrance, a category known for its warmth and exotic depth. The name itself conjures images of rich, dark spices, velvety florals, and sensual woods, capturing the essence of both the goddess's fierce nature and her nurturing side. American women of the time, navigating a world shaped by war, may have been drawn to this fragrance not only for its aromatic qualities but also for its symbolic connotations. Kali would have offered an escape, a touch of the exotic, and a reminder of the strength inherent in femininity.

The early 1940s were marked by a growing interest in Eastern cultures, largely influenced by the global war and the influx of soldiers returning home with stories from distant lands. This fascination extended into various aspects of American life, including film, art, fashion, and perfumery. Indian aesthetics began to surface in Hollywood films, often portrayed through opulent costumes and rich narratives that showcased a world of mystique. Artists and designers drew inspiration from Indian motifs and textiles, integrating them into mainstream fashion, which helped to create a sense of allure around all things Eastern.

In the context of perfumery, the use of exotic names and ingredients became increasingly popular as fragrance houses sought to capture the imagination of consumers. The choice of a name like Kali reflected not only a burgeoning interest in Indian culture but also a desire for fragrances that resonated with deeper meanings and emotional connections. As such, Kali by Dana encapsulated a moment in time, where the complexities of war coexisted with a yearning for beauty, strength, and the exotic, offering women an olfactory experience that was both empowering and evocative.

Platine by Dana c1938

Platine by Dana: launched in 1938 in France and in USA by 1939.

The name means "platinum" and the bottles had silvery platinum foil flakes floating inside to resemble platinum. The fragrance was also released in Spanish-speaking countries as Platino.

Tabu by Dana c1932

Tabu by Dana was launched in 1932, an era defined by contrasting social dynamics and a burgeoning interest in luxury and sensuality. The creation of this fragrance was inspired by a rather provocative request directed to perfumer Jean Carles: to develop a scent that a prostitute might wear, termed in French as “un parfum de puta.” This phrase evokes a potent image of allure and seduction, suggesting a fragrance that embodies both daring and sophistication. In the context of perfume, this notion is appropriate; it invites the idea of a scent that is bold, unapologetically sensual, and designed to captivate and entice.

The choice of the name Tabu carries significant weight, as it reflects deeper cultural connotations. The word "taboo," originating from the Polynesian term tapu, refers to something that is prohibited or restricted due to social or cultural norms. This concept evokes images of the forbidden and the mysterious, suggesting a fragrance that challenges conventions and explores the boundaries of desire. The naming was serendipitously inspired when Javier Serra, the founder of Dana Parfums, happened upon the cover of Sigmund Freud’s book Totem and Taboo while strolling through Nice, France. This encounter resonated with the fragrance’s daring nature, offering an intellectual underpinning to its sensual character. Interestingly, in 1935, Dana also launched a perfume named Totem, further emphasizing the connection to the complexities of human desire and social boundaries.

Tabu is classified as a floral woody amber oriental fragrance for women, embodying a luxurious and rich character that is perfectly suited for the cooler months of fall and winter. The scent opens with a captivating blend of floral notes that envelop the wearer in a lush bouquet, leading into a heart that reveals deeper, warmer elements. The interplay of woody and amber notes conjures a sense of opulence and sensuality, making it a perfect companion for evenings out or intimate gatherings. The fragrance exudes confidence and sophistication, encouraging women to embrace their sensuality in a society that was gradually shifting towards greater expressions of femininity and independence.

20 Carats by Dana c1933

20 Carats was first introduced in 1933 by Dana who launched Tabu just one year before. Originally only sold in their Parisian boutique, 20 Carats may have only been introduced to American women during this time by soldiers returning from duty in France, bringing home perfumes for their sweethearts, sisters and mothers.

Zig Zag by Zsa Zsa Gabor c1969

Zig Zag by Zsa Zsa Gabor: launched in 1969.

The fragrance was available in the following products:

• Parfum
• Parfum Spray Mist
• Parfum Bath Oil

Lutece by Houbigant c1984

Lutece by Houbigant: launched in 1984. Apparently, "Lutece" was the old name for the city of Paris.

Chantilly by Houbigant c1940

Chantilly by Houbigant: launched in 1940. The fragrance was created by "nose" Marcel Billot and Paul Parquet and named after the famous Chantilly laces.

Ambush by Dana c1955

Launched in 1955, Ambush by Dana is a fragrance that stands out not only for its composition but also for its provocative name. The choice of the name "Ambush" is intriguing, as it evokes strong imagery and emotions. The word "ambush" is derived from the French word embuscade, which refers to a surprise attack, often sudden and unexpected. The term carries a sense of stealth, tension, and unpredictability. It conjures images of something hidden, poised to strike, which contrasts with the more traditional, romantic names often chosen for perfumes. By naming their fragrance Ambush, Dana may have been looking to evoke a sense of allure, mystery, and sudden intrigue, inviting the wearer to embrace a bold and unexpected persona.

The 1950s was a transformative decade in many ways, particularly in the realms of fashion, culture, and perfume. It was a period marked by post-war optimism, the rise of youth culture, and an era of conspicuous consumption. This time was characterized by a resurgence of femininity in fashion, with Christian Dior’s "New Look" (1947) continuing to dominate the style of the early 1950s—full skirts, fitted waists, and an emphasis on hourglass silhouettes. Women’s clothing, though elegant and refined, began to evolve as the decade wore on, with designers like Pierre Cardin and Jacques Fath introducing more youthful and casual styles that embraced the growing demand for more freedom in movement and expression.

Les Parfums de Vigny

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by de Vigny from 1921 to 1952.

Emir by Dana c1936

Emir by Dana: launched in 1936 in France,  it was introduced to the USA in 1947.. Created by perfumer Jean Carles. The perfume was created in Paris and from the inspiration of fabulous Persia and blended from imported Oriental essences.

 "Because of this completely new perfume, you dare to dream again"

Vintage Musk Oils

Vintage musk oils are among the most coveted fragrances in the market today, with a rich history and enduring appeal. Despite the passage of time, many of these iconic scents from the 1970s have been discontinued, making them increasingly rare and highly sought after by fragrance enthusiasts. Those who originally embraced these sensual musk oils during their heyday often remain deeply loyal, driven by a nostalgic connection to their unique aroma. This ongoing demand has led to a significant increase in prices, with vintage musk oils commanding exorbitant amounts in the secondary market.

Cuir du Canada by Dana c1947

Launched in 1947, Cuir du Canada by Dana stands out as an unusual and evocative fragrance choice, particularly given the prevalence of "Cuir de Russie" (Russian Leather) perfumes in the industry at the time. The name "Cuir du Canada" is French, meaning "Leather of Canada." It is pronounced in  as “Kweer dew Kah-nah-dah.” This name immediately conjures images of vast northern landscapes, untamed wilderness, and the rich history of Canada’s fur trade, a defining aspect of its colonial past. Unlike the romanticized imperial and aristocratic connotations of Cuir de Russie, which was often linked to Tsarist Russia’s equestrian culture and fine leather goods, Cuir du Canada evokes something more rugged, raw, and untamed—a scent inspired by the harsh yet majestic natural world of North America.

The year 1947 marked the beginning of a new era in both fashion and fragrance. World War II had ended just two years prior, ushering in a period of renewal, optimism, and shifting social dynamics. The world was emerging from the frugality of war rationing, and there was a strong desire for luxury, elegance, and a return to glamour. This year also saw the debut of Christian Dior’s “New Look,” which revolutionized women’s fashion with nipped-in waists, voluminous skirts, and an emphasis on ultra-femininity. Perfumes of the time reflected this new opulence and sensuality, with rich, floral, and aldehydic compositions dominating the market.

However, Cuir du Canada was an anomaly. While floral bouquets and powdery scents reigned supreme, leather fragrances spoke to a different sensibility—one of strength, sophistication, and daring confidence. In an era where many women were embracing their independence, stepping into professional roles, and redefining femininity, a scent like Cuir du Canada may have been particularly appealing. It offered an alternative to the traditional floral perfumes of the period, instead embodying an air of rebellion and adventurous spirit.