Thursday, January 9, 2014

Les Parfums de Vigny

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by de Vigny from 1921 to 1952.

c1920


Les Parfums de Vigny was established in 1919 by Lucien Vogel with help of his brother Jacques, a perfumer who was later associated with the companies Dana and Molyneux. The company was located at 416 rue Saint-Honore, Paris.

The company and products were named de Vigny after the poet Alfred de Vigny. From the beginning, de Vigny introduced perfumes with two distinct personalities- the humorous and the ethereal.



Michel de Brunhoff designed such notable comical perfumes as Le Golliwogg, Le Chick-Chick, Guili-Guili and Be Lucky.




Charles Martin created fabulous advertisements and for the ethereal luxury presentations with bottles designed by Lalique, primarily seen in the La Gazette du Bon Ton. Vogel founded Le Gazette du Bon Ton , Jardin des Modes and French Vogue in collaboration with his wife Cosette and her brother, Michel de Brunhoff. The three Lalique bottles used for the early advertisements were Musky, Ambre and Jamerose.









The company changed their name to Les Parfums de Luxe, SA 1921.


De Vigny's exhibit at the 1925 Paris Art Deco exhibition where they were awarded a gold medal. 


After 1929, without the artistic and creative involvements of Vogel, Martin, Lalique, and de Brunhoff, the luxurious quality of designs for new presentations declined considerably. From 1933, the de Vigny name was gradually simplified to Vigny.

The perfumes Golliwogg, Echo Troublant, and Heure Intime were still being sold in 1967. Beau Catcher was still being sold in 1970.

Vigny was still in business in the 1970s, but went out of business soon after releasing their last perfume Coccinelle in 1974.



Musky:

The floral woody musk perfume Musky, created in 1919 was housed in a flacon by Rene Lalique. The perfume was later renamed Rainure.




Jamerose:


Jamerose, a floral oriental perfume combining the notes of jasmine, rose and exotic woods, was housed inside of a beautiful flacon by Rene Lalique. Bottle stands 4.72" tall (12 cm), has a barrel shaped body molded with line decoration, topped with a crystal spire stopper, and finished off with an enameled decanter tag tied around the neck. Other bottles were used for Jamerose, and were not made by Lalique, such as the square bottle purse flacon with the frosted stopper and housed in a felt pouch.







L'Infidele:


The perfume L'Infidele was housed inside of a tall, slim column of clear crystal by Baccarat with its fluted lines piqued out in gold enamel. The column was topped by a glass stopper molded with flowers. This perfume was renamed Douce Chose in 1921.




Dry Goods Economist - Volume 76, 1922:
"Appealingly different from other designs is this perfume bottle, known as the Column of Gold. It contains a Vigny odor, called Infidel. "


Fleur Celeste:

For the perfume Fleur Celeste, "the flower of heaven," Vigny commissioned Baccarat to create a bottle with an elegant floral theme. The large 2 ounce Baccarat crystal bottle is topped with a gilded glass stopper shaped as a flower head. The bottle was housed in a box simulating Chinese Lacquer. Height 3 3/4 in.





Le Golliwogg:

The most common of all Vigny perfumes to be found is the adorable Golliwogg. The stopper is made up of black glass and has real seal fur for hair. The earlier bottles of 1919 were frosted glass, and the later ones from the 1920s were in clear glass. Baccarat supplied many of the bottles. The bottles as well as the graphics were designed by Michel de Brunhoff. The rare original bottle has black glass stopper with molded face and hair. the figural bottles ranged in five sizes from the largest at 6 3/4" tall down to the smallest 2 3/4" tall.

Don't forget to look for the fanciful powder boxes emblazoned with dear Golli's head and the lotion, tester and sample bottles and the rare bronze and enamel pins with a little grate to hold perfume soaked cotton balls.









Le Chick Chick:


One of the more whimsical perfume bottles was the one made for Le Chick-Chick, which was made for Easter. The crystal bottle had gilded wings which formed the body of the chick, and had an oversized gilded cap which formed the head. These bottles came in three different sizes from the largest at 5 3/8" tall, to a medium size 3 3/8" and the smallest at 2 7/8" tall. They came housed in floral papered boxes with a drop front.




Guili-Guili:


A rare bottle to come across is for the scent Guili-Guili. This perfume was based on a real life magician and illusionist from Alexandria, Egypt, a competitor of Luxor Gali-Gali (Mahgoub Mohammed Hanafi, b1902-b1984), the names were often confused. Guili-Guili, who claimed he was 25,000 years old, often working in Egyptian costume, went thru a series of tricks including disappearing eggs, chicks and ended by pulling a string of flags out of his mouth.

His first trip to the US was in 1926 for one night only, Mrs. Vincent Astor paid all of his expenses to fly him from Paris, where he was living at the time, to New York City to entertain her guests, she paid him a $5,000 honorarium and gifted him with a $1,000 bonus. After living in paris for 26 years, he moved to Brooklyn , New York and became a US citizen who for three years, played the US circuit to entertain our troops during WWII. "Mystery, is what makes life worth living," he was quoted as saying in a 1946 article in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle.

The bottle had a head and foot of carved mahogany, the head resembled an African mask covering the inner stopper, while the foot enabled the paneled crystal bottle to stand upright. This bottle stood at 6 1/4" tall.





Le Bosquet de Vigny:

Le Bosquet de Vigny was housed in a jade green bottle, with a rounded arch top, crisscrossed in silver. A squatty conical stopper finished off the bottle. Both the bottle and the presentation box had lines simulating a wicker basket. The bottle was designed by Georges Lepape and manufactured by la Société Parisienne de Verrerie (SPV) and Verreries et Ateliers d'Art. Bottle measures 3 1/2" × 2 3/8".






Other Vigny perfumes:




The perfumes Heure Intime, Beau Catcher and Golliwogg were also housed in the so-called "grenade" bottles made by Verreries Brosse in the 1930s-1960s. Some of these had glass stoppers, later bottles had plastic stoppers, or in the case of the mini bottles, brass screw caps.

The Perfumes of Vigny:


1919MuskyRenamed Rainure
1919L'InfidelRenamed Douce Chose in 1921Housed in a slim, column shape bottle in a silver box.
1919AmbreAn oriental perfume
1919JameroseAn oriental floral perfume (jasmine, rose, woods)
1919Le GolliwoggCreated by Jacques VogelAn exotic spicy floriental perfumeSubtitled "The Perfume of Romance"
1921Douce Chose
1921EloaAn oriental perfume
1921Plein Soleil
1921La RoseA floral perfume
1921D'ou Vient-Il?
1921Le LilasA floral perfume
1921L'OeilletA floral perfume
1921Le JasminA floral perfume
1921BouquetA floral perfume
1921Le MuguetA floral perfume
1921La VioletteA floral perfume
1921Le ChypreA chypre perfume
1922Le Bosquet de VignyA light, fresh floral fragrance for women
1922Fleur CelesteA floral perfumeRenamed Le Narcisse de FranceSubtitled "flower of heaven"
1922D'ou Vient-Il?
1922MatinaleA cologne for men
1923Le Narcisse de FranceA floral perfume
1924LionettesPurse size bottles
1925Be Lucky
1925Le Chick-ChickCreated by Jacques Vogel
1925C’est un Mélange
1927Bon Soir
1927Panier de Vigny
1932Guili-GuiliCreated by Jacques VogelAn oriental perfumeSubtitled "Parfum des Tropiques"
1933Heure IntimeCreated by Jacques VogelAn aldehydic floral perfume
1942Beau CatcherA spicy, sweet floral perfume
1951Echo TroublantA cool, green, woody fougere perfume
1952Chambord
1974CoccinelleSubtitled "Parfum du Matin"




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