La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty c1902

During the Edwardian era, garden parties reigned as the epitome of social gatherings among the elite. These events, steeped in tradition and elegance, provided the perfect backdrop for showcasing the latest floral marvels, including the coveted Jacqueminot rose. As guests mingled amidst the lush blooms, sipping on cool drinks, and indulging in dainty treats served al fresco, the successful blooming of the Jacqueminot rose stood as a testament to the host's horticultural prowess and status within polite society.

In the picturesque settings of these lively garden parties, elegant women adorned themselves in ethereal white lawn dresses, known as lingerie dresses, evoking a sense of timeless grace and sophistication. Their ensembles were complemented by large wide-brimmed picture hats, adorned with whimsical accents such as stuffed birds and blooming flowers, anchored in place by long, fancy hat pins.

As they chatted away amidst the fragrant blooms, these women may have held delicate hand-painted porcelain cups in one hand, savoring the refreshing taste of sweet iced tea or lemonade, while using a fancy hand fan in the other to cool off from the summer heat. Their attire was completed with pristine white gloves, adding a touch of refinement to their ensemble.

The tables were adorned with lace tablecloths, polished silver flatware, and sparkling crystal lemonade pitchers, creating an atmosphere of opulence and elegance. Amidst this scene of sophistication, the delicate aroma of the Jacqueminot rose lingered in the air, adding a layer of romantic allure to the festivities. With every breath, guests were transported to a realm of timeless beauty and refined luxury, where the essence of the rose intertwined seamlessly with the splendor of the garden party.

La Rose Jacqueminot, with its rich, floral scent, would have been well-received in this context. Named after the highly fragrant breed of roses, the perfume evoked a sense of luxury and romance. The association with the Napoleonic era added to its allure, tapping into the nostalgia for a romanticized past.

The popularity of La Rose Jacqueminot perfume mirrored the fascination with the Jacqueminot rose, capturing the essence of its exquisite fragrance and timeless beauty. Just as guests reveled in the splendor of the flowering garden at these garden parties, so too did wearers of the perfume immerse themselves in the allure of its romantic aroma, evoking images of sun-drenched garden paths and vibrant blossoms in full bloom.

Against the backdrop of these esteemed gatherings, where society loosened its reins and embraced the joys of nature and camaraderie, the Jacqueminot rose emerged as a cherished centerpiece, admired by all who beheld its radiant blooms. Its delicate petals, imbued with the essence of La Rose Jacqueminot, added a touch of elegance and refinement to the festivities, ensuring that these garden parties remained unforgettable affairs, steeped in beauty, grace, and the timeless allure of the rose.

 

In the United States, where La Rose Jacqueminot was introduced by 1906, the perfume would have been particularly popular among the growing middle class, who aspired to the lifestyle and glamour associated with European perfumes.

Imprevu by Coty c1965

In 1965, when Coty launched Imprevu, the world was amidst a vibrant cultural shift. It was a time of considerable change and exploration, both socially and artistically. The mid-1960s marked the peak of the Swinging Sixties era, characterized by a rebellious spirit, a rejection of traditional values, and an embrace of youth culture.

Around the world, significant events were shaping history. In the United States, the Civil Rights Movement was gaining momentum, with key figures like Martin Luther King Jr. leading marches and protests for racial equality. The Vietnam War was escalating, sparking anti-war demonstrations and a countercultural movement that challenged authority and the status quo. In Europe, the Swinging London scene was flourishing, with its fashion, music, and art scenes capturing global attention.

For young women, especially those targeted by Coty's marketing for Imprevu, life was undergoing profound changes. The traditional roles and expectations of women were being redefined. The rise of feminism and the sexual revolution empowered women to assert their independence, challenge societal norms, and embrace their individuality. Fashion icons like Twiggy and Brigitte Bardot epitomized the era's liberated spirit, influencing trends with their bold styles and attitudes.

Imprevu's debut represented a deliberate departure into modernity, perfectly aligned with the zeitgeist of the Swinging Sixties. Crafted by Bernard Chant, the fragrance aimed to encapsulate the essence of the contemporary woman amidst a backdrop of societal change and cultural revolution. Its very name, "Imprevu," meaning "unforeseen" in French, hinted at the unpredictability and excitement of the times.

Meteor by Coty c1949

The launch of Meteor by Coty in 1949, followed by its introduction in the USA by 1951, occurred during a time of significant global tension and scientific advancement.

In the late 1940s and early 1950s, the world was still reeling from the aftermath of World War II, which had ended just a few years prior. During this period, the Cold War between the United States and the Soviet Union intensified, leading to a race for supremacy in various fields, including space exploration and nuclear technology.

Space exploration was gaining traction as both the United States and the Soviet Union competed to achieve milestones in this frontier. In 1949, the Soviet Union successfully tested its first atomic bomb, escalating fears of nuclear warfare and prompting the United States to accelerate its own nuclear program. This period marked the beginning of the arms race, with both superpowers developing increasingly powerful and sophisticated nuclear weapons.

L'Aimant by Coty c1927

The launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 occurred during a fascinating period in the history of perfumery, marked by innovation, creativity, and cultural shifts. The 1920s, often referred to as the "Roaring Twenties," was a time of immense social, artistic, and economic change.

The fragrance industry was experiencing a revolution of its own, with perfumers experimenting with new ingredients and techniques to create unique scents that captured the spirit of the era. This was also a time when the art of perfumery was becoming more accessible to the masses, thanks to advancements in production methods and marketing strategies.

Coty's acquisition of the Antoine Chiris company in 1926 added another layer of complexity to the perfume landscape. With its rich history dating back to 1768, Chiris brought with it a wealth of knowledge and expertise in sourcing raw materials and crafting exquisite perfumes. The collaboration between Coty and Chiris not only expanded Coty's reach but also facilitated the creation of new fragrances that would captivate consumers.

The origins of L'Aimant can be traced back to Rallet No. 1, a perfume crafted by Ernest Beaux, the renowned perfumer behind Chanel No. 5. Beaux's association with Coco Chanel and the creation of Chanel No. 5 marked a turning point in the world of perfumery, establishing a new standard of luxury and sophistication. Coty's decision to create L'Aimant as a homage to Chanel No. 5 reflects the intense competition and desire to capitalize on the success of iconic fragrances.

The name "L'Aimant," pronounced "LEH MON," meaning "magnet" in French, suggests an alluring and magnetic quality, hinting at the captivating nature of the fragrance. With Vincent Roubert, Coty's chief collaborator in perfumery, lending his expertise to the project, L'Aimant was crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and allure.

Overall, the launch of L'Aimant by Coty in 1927 encapsulates the spirit of innovation and creativity that defined the perfume industry during the Roaring Twenties. It represents a fusion of tradition and modernity, paying homage to the legacy of perfumery while embracing the evolving tastes and preferences of consumers in a rapidly changing world.

Sophia by Coty c1980

"Sophia" by Coty is a fragrance that pays homage to the renowned actress Sophia Loren. Launched in 1980, it captures the essence of her timeless elegance and allure. Perfumer James Bell crafted this fragrance to evoke the sophistication and charm associated with Loren's persona. It's remarkable how fragrances can capture the essence of a person or an era, isn't it?

Ghost Myst by Coty c1995

Ghost Myst by Coty: launched in 1995. "You can't see it but it's there. The first fragrance to celebrate a woman's inner beauty, as well as her outer beauty. Ghost Myst by Coty is the fragrance you'll want to wear because it affirms and validates your inner self. The sheer beauty of light, airy scent; veiled in gossamer."

The idea of celebrating both inner and outer beauty is quite empowering. The description paints a picture of a delicate and ethereal scent, evoking feelings of lightness and grace. It's intriguing how the concept of invisibility ties into the essence of the perfume, emphasizing the subtle yet undeniable presence of inner beauty.

Complice de Francois Coty c1973

Francois Coty originally created Complice ('Accomplice') in 1934, but died before it could be launched. It remained on ice until 1973, when the Coty company launched it in a period design bottle. The name Complice was filed for trademark in 1939, company claimed use since 1938.

That's quite an interesting history! François Coty was a prominent figure in the world of perfumery. It's fascinating to see how Complice had such a prolonged journey from its conception in 1934 to its eventual launch almost four decades later. The fact that the name was filed for trademark in 1939, with the company claiming use since 1938, adds an intriguing layer to its backstory. It's a testament to the enduring appeal and significance of certain fragrances that they can transcend time and still find success when brought to market years later.

Alphonse Rallet

Alphonse Rallet (1819-1894) established his perfumery company Rallet in Moscow in 1843. Rallet's perfumes, soaps and cosmetics were so popular that by 1900, he was the most distinguished of all perfumeries in Russia. His excellence in quality made him the official supplier to the royal courts of Russia, Romania, Serbia, Persia and Montenegro.


After the death of Alphonse Rallet, the company was purchased by Chiris, a raw material supplier from Grasse, France. When the Russian Revolution took over and Rallet's Russian assets were nationalized in 1917, the company was reestablished in France. It was here in 1920, that the famous perfumer and technical director, Ernest Beaux , created several perfumes for Gabrielle Chanel, most notably Chanel No. 5, which remains a best seller almost 100 years after its creation in 1921.

"A. Ралле и Ко."

L'Origan by Coty c1905

L'Origan by Coty was launched in 1905, a time when the world was on the cusp of modernity but still deeply rooted in the traditions and sensibilities of the 19th century. This era, often referred to as the Belle Époque in France, was characterized by cultural flourishing, artistic innovation, and a sense of optimism before the upheaval of World War I. The name "L'Origan," meaning "marjoram" in French, evokes the quintessential landscape of Provence, a region in southeastern France known for its idyllic countryside. The early 20th-century Provençal fields would have been vibrant with the colors and fragrances of blossoming flowers and aromatic herbs, painting a picture of serene natural beauty and pastoral charm.

The fields of Provence were, and still are, famous for their lush, fragrant flowers. Lavender, with its deep purple hues, was particularly iconic, alongside sunflowers, poppies, and roses. These flowers not only provided a visual feast but also filled the air with their sweet and intoxicating scents. Provence was also renowned for its herbs, including thyme, rosemary, sage, and, of course, marjoram. These herbs were not just culinary staples but integral to the region's olfactory identity, contributing to the complex, herbaceous aromas that perfumed the air.

Jungle Gardenia by Tuvache c1932

Jungle Gardénia (Original) by Tuvache was launched in 1932, relaunched in 1957.

Emeraude by Coty c1918

Emeraude by Coty, launched in 1918 and crafted by the visionary perfumer François Coty, is a fragrance steeped in historical significance and cultural reverence. Pronounced "EM-AIR-ODE," the name itself, meaning "emerald" in French, hints at the rich narrative that inspired its creation.

In the early 20th century, François Coty was captivated by the ancient Persian culture, particularly their veneration of the emerald. The Persians, renowned for their sophisticated civilization and deep appreciation for the arts and sciences, held emeralds in high esteem. These precious stones were not merely ornamental but were believed to possess profound mystical powers. They were often housed in temples, symbolizing divine protection and happiness.

Against the backdrop of World War I, a period marked by turmoil and longing for beauty and stability, Coty sought to infuse his creations with a sense of wonder and escapism. His fascination with Persian legends and the emerald's reputed ability to bring divine happiness provided the perfect muse.

The post-war era, characterized by a yearning for peace and a return to elegance, found a perfect expression in Emeraude. Coty's goal was ambitious: to encapsulate the allure and mystique of the emerald, transforming its essence into a sensory experience. Emeraude was more than a fragrance; it was an olfactory representation of the emerald's soul, designed to evoke the same reverence and enchantment that the Persians felt towards their treasured jewels.

Launched during a time when modern perfumery was beginning to blossom, Emeraude stood out with its complex blend, balancing citrus top notes with a warm, spicy heart and a sensual, woody base. This composition was groundbreaking, setting a new standard for luxury fragrances. It invited wearers to embark on a journey through time and space, connecting them to the ancient Persian mystique while offering a modern sense of luxury and sophistication.

In essence, Emeraude by Coty is not just a perfume; it is a narrative encapsulated in a bottle, bridging the historical reverence of Persian culture with the early 20th century's desire for beauty and serenity amidst chaos. François Coty's creation remains a testament to the timeless allure of the emerald and the enduring power of storytelling in perfumery.

Dolores Del Rio and Her Perfume Collection

Dolores Del Rio and her beautiful perfume collection.

In this photo I spy:

• Lerys 6 bottle presentation in bronze caddy
• Parfum des Champs Elysées/À Travers Champs/Guerlinade or Candide Effluve by Guerlain
• Jungla by Myrurgia c1933
• unknown early Elizabeth Arden
• Secret de la Perle by Pleville c1926
• two Prince Matchabelli bottles
• La Jacee by Coty
• Sans Adieu by Worth c1929 (Lalique bottle)
• Les Lys by D'Orsay c1922 (Lalique bottle)
• Hattie Carnegie c1925 (Depinoix bottle)
• Lentheric (Baccarat bottle)
• Elizabeth Arden
• She is holding an early Lancome bottle, possibly for Kypre or Bocages

I cannot make out all of the bottles, nor can I make out labels, but if you can, please comment below. 

Smitty by Coty c1976

Launched in 1976, Smitty was Coty's fragrance for the disco scene and probably their answer to Revlon's Charlie. This was super popular among the younger crowd in the late 1970s and into the early 1980s. Where they got the name Smitty from is anybody's guess.

Ambre Antique by Coty c1905

Ambre Antique was launched in 1905 by Coty. Pronounced "Ahm-ber ahn-teek", it was described as the "fragrance of splendour and conquest, the thrall of legendary queens."

A'Suma by Coty c1934

Transport yourself to France in the year 1934, a time when the world was still reeling from the aftermath of the First World War and on the brink of another global conflict. In this era, the Western world held a fascination with exotic locales in the Far East, such as Bali and Japan. These places were often seen through a romanticized lens, imbued with notions of mystery, sensuality, and adventure.

In the collective imagination of the Western populace, Bali was depicted as a paradisiacal island shrouded in the allure of the unknown. It was envisioned as a land of lush tropical landscapes, pristine beaches, and enchanting cultural traditions. Bali symbolized a retreat from the constraints of Western civilization, a place where one could indulge in exotic pleasures and escape the mundane realities of everyday life.

Japan, on the other hand, evoked images of ancient traditions, refined aesthetics, and enigmatic beauty. It was viewed as a land of contrasts, where modernity coexisted with timeless customs. The allure of Japan lay in its mystique, its rich history, and its ability to captivate the imagination with its blend of tradition and innovation.

Against this backdrop of fascination with the Far East, A'Suma "Fantaisie Japonaise" made its debut in France. Conjured up by the creative minds of François Coty and Vincent Roubert, this sensuous perfume transported its wearers to a moonlit tropical beach in Bali, evoking the intoxicating ambiance of this exotic locale. With its blend of aromatic notes and evocative imagery, A'Suma captured the essence of the Far East and allowed its users to experience a fleeting moment of escapism and indulgence.

? (Question Mark) & Accomplice by Coty c1954

?, also known as Question Mark by Coty was launched in 1954.

Mexicali Musk by Coty c1988

Some of you may remember a kitschy cologne for men called Mexicali Musk, a herbals, spicy musky men’s fragrance which Coty debuted in 1988. Coty's senior marketing manager Arthur Sherwood states that “Mexicali Musk, is named after a town on the border of Mexico and California.“

Muguet de Bois by Coty c1913

The launch of Muguet des Bois by Coty in 1913 occurred during a period of significant cultural and social shifts, particularly in the realm of women's rights and expression. François Coty, the visionary behind the fragrance, introduced it into a world where femininity was often associated with delicate, floral scents. The timing of the launch coincided with the burgeoning popularity of perfumes as an essential accessory for the modern woman, symbolizing elegance, refinement, and sensuality.

Lily of the valley, the focal note of Muguet des Bois, holds deep symbolism, especially in the context of femininity. Often associated with purity, innocence, and renewal, this delicate flower represented the idealized feminine virtues of the time. Its subtle yet enchanting fragrance became synonymous with grace and allure, making it a fitting choice for a perfume designed to accentuate the wearer's femininity.

Muguet des Bois by Coty embodied the essence of the era's feminine ideal, offering women a way to express themselves through scent. With its fresh, floral bouquet, the perfume captured the essence of springtime, evoking images of blooming gardens and romantic rendezvous. Its launch marked a pivotal moment in perfume history, cementing Coty's reputation as a master perfumer and setting the stage for the enduring legacy of Muguet des Bois as a timeless classic.

Pronounced "MEWGAY - DAY - BWAH"

La Jacee by Coty c1905

La Jacee by Coty made its debut in 1905, a time characterized by an intriguing blend of tradition and transition. The early 20th century marked the end of the Victorian era and the dawn of the modern age, a period of significant social, cultural, and technological change.

In the realm of fashion and beauty, this era witnessed a departure from the rigid conventions of the past towards a more liberated and individualistic expression. Women were challenging societal norms, advocating for greater rights and freedoms, and embracing new opportunities for self-expression.

Against this backdrop, La Jacee emerged as a symbol of elegance and sophistication, offering women a scent that encapsulated the spirit of the times—a delicate balance of tradition and modernity. Its launch coincided with the rise of the Art Nouveau movement, characterized by its graceful curves, intricate patterns, and natural motifs, which influenced not only visual arts but also perfumery.

As the world entered a new century filled with promise and possibility, La Jacee embodied the optimism and joie de vivre of the era. Its timeless fragrance captivated the senses, transporting wearers to a realm of enchantment and allure.

Amidst the rapid pace of change and the tumult of global events, La Jacee provided a sense of comfort and familiarity—a timeless reminder of the beauty and elegance that endure even in the face of uncertainty. Its legacy lives on as a testament to the enduring allure of classic fragrances and the timeless appeal of Coty's craftsmanship.

Muse by Coty c1948

The launch of Muse by Coty in 1946 was during a significant period of transition and rebuilding in Europe following World War II. The perfume's creation amidst the turmoil of the war years, including the German occupation of France, adds a poignant layer to its story.

1946 marked the immediate post-war era, characterized by efforts to rebuild shattered economies and societies. Europe was still reeling from the devastation of the war, and there was a palpable sense of both loss and hope for the future.

Vincent Roubert's dedication to creating Muse despite the challenges of the war underscores the resilience and determination of individuals amidst adversity. His commitment to his craft and the pursuit of beauty in the midst of such tumultuous times is a testament to the human spirit.

The choice to honor the Muses of Greek mythology with Muse by Coty reflects a longing for inspiration and creativity after years of darkness. The Muses were traditionally associated with the arts and creative endeavors, so launching a perfume in their honor suggests a desire to celebrate beauty and culture in the aftermath of destruction.

The elaborate debut of Muse, as dreamed up by press agents, likely aimed to capture the imagination of consumers and transport them to a world of luxury and sophistication. In a time when people were yearning for escapism and a return to normalcy, Muse by Coty may have offered a small glimpse of glamour and elegance amid the challenges of the post-war period.