Muse by Coty c1948

The launch of Muse by Coty in 1946 was during a significant period of transition and rebuilding in Europe following World War II. The perfume's creation amidst the turmoil of the war years, including the German occupation of France, adds a poignant layer to its story.

1946 marked the immediate post-war era, characterized by efforts to rebuild shattered economies and societies. Europe was still reeling from the devastation of the war, and there was a palpable sense of both loss and hope for the future.

Vincent Roubert's dedication to creating Muse despite the challenges of the war underscores the resilience and determination of individuals amidst adversity. His commitment to his craft and the pursuit of beauty in the midst of such tumultuous times is a testament to the human spirit.

The choice to honor the Muses of Greek mythology with Muse by Coty reflects a longing for inspiration and creativity after years of darkness. The Muses were traditionally associated with the arts and creative endeavors, so launching a perfume in their honor suggests a desire to celebrate beauty and culture in the aftermath of destruction.

The elaborate debut of Muse, as dreamed up by press agents, likely aimed to capture the imagination of consumers and transport them to a world of luxury and sophistication. In a time when people were yearning for escapism and a return to normalcy, Muse by Coty may have offered a small glimpse of glamour and elegance amid the challenges of the post-war period.

In the aftermath of World War II, amidst a world rebuilding from the ravages of conflict, Coty, the esteemed perfume house, unveiled a remarkable creation: Muse. This fragrance marked Coty's first foray into new perfume since the war's end.

Muse wasn't just another perfume; it was a testament to resilience, creativity, and the enduring power of beauty to transcend adversity. Described as a "lilting, nostalgically soft fragrance," Muse evoked a sense of longing, a yearning for the elegance and sophistication of times past.

But Muse was more than just a scent; it was a tribute to the divine muses of Greek mythology. These mythical figures, the Nine Muses, were revered as the guardians of the arts, inspiring creativity and innovation in those they touched. With Muse, Coty sought to capture the essence of these ethereal beings, infusing their fragrance with the spirit of artistic expression and poetic inspiration.

In Muse, one could detect the whispers of ancient melodies, the soft caress of a painter's brush, and the delicate dance of words upon a page. It was a fragrance that transported the wearer to a realm of beauty and creativity, inviting them to embrace their inner muse and unleash their imagination upon the world.

Through Muse, Coty not only crafted a perfume but also wove a tapestry of dreams and aspirations, inviting all who experienced its scent to become part of a timeless legacy of artistry and inspiration.

 

The 10th Muse:

Imagine stepping into a world where ancient mythology meets contemporary creativity. Coty decided to embark on an extraordinary journey inspired by Greek mythology. After immersing themselves in the tales of the Nine Muses, the divine sources of inspiration for the arts, they felt inspired to create a 10th Muse, one that would symbolize the essence of sweet perfumes in the modern era.

They named her Osme, the muse of sweet perfumes, envisioning her as a sister to the original Nine Muses but tailored for the 20th century. This decision wasn't just about adding another fragrance to their collection; it was about infusing their brand with a sense of innovation and reverence for ancient traditions.

With Osme as their muse, Coty embarked on a quest to develop a fragrance worthy of her divine essence. Their perfumers, like modern-day alchemists, carefully blended aromatic ingredients to capture the allure and mystery of sweet perfumes. Each scent was meticulously crafted, with the goal of evoking Osme's captivating presence.

When the fragrance was finally ready, Coty unveiled it to the world with all the pomp and circumstance befitting a goddess. Their marketing campaign transported consumers into the realm of Greek mythology, inviting them to experience the enchantment of Osme's fragrance.

Through this creative endeavor, Coty demonstrated their ability to blend ancient myth with modern innovation, creating a product that not only captivated the senses but also captured the imagination. In the world of Osme, perfume wasn't just a scent; it was a story waiting to be told, an experience waiting to be shared.

The Launch:

As you step into the grand ballroom of the Waldorf-Astoria in New York, you're immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of anticipation and elegance. The air is alive with a symphony of voices, the chatter of 1,500 representatives from radio, press, fashion, and cinema mingling together in excitement.

Your senses are awakened as the fragrance of delicate perfumes wafts through the air, mingling with the tantalizing aroma of gourmet cuisine being prepared for the lavish luncheon ahead. The sight before you is breathtaking - the ballroom transformed into a scene reminiscent of a Ziegfeld-style pageant, with opulent decorations and glamorous displays. 

Taking your seat among the crowd, you feel a sense of anticipation building around you. As you savor the sumptuous luncheon spread before you, your taste buds are treated to a symphony of flavors. You indulge in the fruit supreme, a vibrant medley of fresh, ripe fruits bursting with sweetness and juiciness. Each bite is a delight, as you taste the succulent strawberries, tangy pineapple, and luscious grapes.

Next, you sample the tender chicken breasts, perfectly seasoned and cooked to perfection. The meat is moist and flavorful, complemented by savory herbs and spices that dance on your palate. With each bite, you savor the comforting warmth and richness of the dish.

But the indulgence doesn't stop there. You're tempted by an array of sweets, each one more decadent than the last. You delight in delicate pastries filled with creamy custard and topped with fresh berries, their buttery crusts melting in your mouth. Rich chocolates tempt you with their velvety texture and intense flavor, leaving you craving more with each bite.

And of course, no lavish luncheon would be complete without a glass of fine wine to accompany the feast. You sip on the velvety red wine, its complex flavors unfolding on your tongue with each sip. The wine's notes of ripe berries and subtle oak mingle with the flavors of the food, creating a perfect harmony of taste and texture.

As you dine on these exquisite delicacies, surrounded by the opulence of the Waldorf-Astoria ballroom and the excitement of the perfume launch, you can't help but feel a sense of indulgence and delight. This is truly a feast for the senses, an experience to be savored and remembered for years to come.

As the lights dim and the soft strains of music fill the air, you find yourself transported into a world of enchantment and glamour. Coty has pulled out all the stops to create an unforgettable spectacle, inviting leading American designers to draw inspiration from the mythical muses for a collection of modern fashions.

This event marks a significant moment in history, the first lavish introduction of perfume since the war, and the anticipation is palpable in the air. As the curtains part, you're greeted by a breathtaking pageant that unfolds before your eyes.

The stage comes alive with a cavalcade of the fifteen nations that contributed ingredients to the perfume, each one represented by models adorned in indescribably ornate costumes and jewelry. The gowns, meticulously designed by the renowned Valentina, shimmer and sparkle under the spotlight, each one a masterpiece of artistry and craftsmanship.

As the pageant proceeds, star narrator Leonora Corbett, known for gracing both English and American stages, takes the stage. She is resplendent in black velvet, her voice a mesmerizing blend of elegance and allure as she guides you through the spectacle.

Leonora's words are like poetry, emphasizing the universality of love for perfumes as she speaks of the passion and artistry that went into creating this extraordinary fragrance. Her commentary is punctuated by the appearance of the fifteen gorgeous models, each representing a different nationality and adding to the richness and diversity of the event.

You can't help but be swept away by the beauty and grace of it all. This is not just a fashion show; it's a celebration of art, culture, and the enduring power of fragrance to captivate the senses and unite people from all walks of life. You're mesmerized by the array of rich folk costumes that grace the stage. Each ensemble, crafted from bright silks and adorned with intricate details, transports you to far-off lands and distant eras.

Inspired by fashions supposedly current in Egypt, Abyssinia, Italy, Zanzibar, and of course, France, these costumes are a testament to the diversity and richness of cultures from around the world. You marvel at the elaborate headdresses, vibrant patterns, and luxurious fabrics that adorn the models, each ensemble a work of art in its own right.

But it's the representation of France that truly captivates your attention. Symbolized not once, but three times, France is brought to life on stage in all its glory. A midinette, dressed in her simplest black dress, embodies the spirit of Paris - chic, understated, and effortlessly stylish.

Meanwhile, a hardworking peasant in regional costume pays homage to the rural traditions and heritage of France, reminding you of the timeless beauty found in simplicity and authenticity.

But it's the final representation of France that truly takes your breath away. A beautiful girl, draped in the iconic red-white-and-blue uniform of a cuirassier from the Napoleonic period, stands tall and proud, a symbol of the nation's strength, courage, and resilience. Her uniform, anachronistically spattered with crosses of Lorraine, serves as a poignant reminder of France's enduring spirit and its willingness to defy convention and embrace change.

As you take in the spectacle before you, you're struck by the power of fashion to transcend time and place, to tell stories of heritage, identity, and aspiration. In this moment, surrounded by beauty and artistry, you can't help but feel a sense of awe and appreciation for the rich tapestry of cultures that make up our world.

As the grand finale unfolds, the stage is transformed into a vision of ethereal beauty and timeless elegance. Against the backdrop of a marble white Greek temple, the nine Muses, created by Apollo himself, take center stage. Each goddess represents one of the Fine Arts, adorned in bridal white and exuding an aura of grace and majesty.

The parade begins, and amid a shower of flower petals, the fashion show commences, revealing the exquisite attire fit for the well-dressed muse, whether ancient Greek or modern-day.

For the muse of dance, Clare Potter presents a vision of sophistication with a V-neck crepe dinner dress adorned with a gold belt and a skirt cascading in rows upon rows of ruffles, capturing the essence of movement and grace.

Fira Benenson's creation for the muse of tragedy is a flowing gown of white chiffon, accented by a long scarf attached to one sleeve that can be draped over the head like a cape, embodying the solemn beauty and dramatic flair of tragic artistry.

Adrian, hailing from California for this special occasion, dresses the muse of eloquence in a sleek and sophisticated white jersey gown, featuring a square neck, stole sleeves, and a shirred torso, symbolizing the power of words to captivate and inspire.

Meanwhile, Towi designs a breathtaking ensemble for the goddess of love, a negligee of white chiffon delicately layered over satin, with a midriff of flesh-pink chiffon appliquéd by satin, evoking feelings of romance and sensuality.

And finally, emerging from a temporary cardboard Greek temple at the back of the stage is the pièce de résistance, the tenth muse, Osme, the muse of perfume. She is draped in a diaphanous, floating gown by Valentina, adorned in pale sea green and sun yellow hues, combining jersey and marquisette to create an aura of enchantment and allure, capturing the essence of her fragrant domain.

As you witness this mesmerizing spectacle unfold before your eyes, you're transported to a realm of beauty and inspiration, where artistry and imagination know no bounds. It's a celebration of creativity, craftsmanship, and the enduring legacy of the muses, both ancient and modern, leaving you spellbound by the magic of it all.

As the grand fashion show reaches its climax, and the breathtaking ensembles inspired by the Muses grace the stage, another momentous event unfolds simultaneously. The history-making perfume, the culmination of years of dedication and artistry, is ceremoniously introduced to the crowded ballroom in a spectacle of its own.

Suddenly, a hush falls over the room as a short-wave broadcast from Paris fills the air, heralding the introduction of the much-anticipated perfume. Coty chairman Grover Whalen takes the stage, his commanding presence commanding attention as he delivers a flowery speech in the role of a herald.

The atmosphere is electric as a soprano's voice fills the room, singing both the Star-Spangled Banner and La Marseillaise, bridging the gap between Paris and New York in a harmonious celebration of culture and tradition. The stage is set, and you can feel the excitement mounting as the moment of revelation draws near.

Finally, the perfume is introduced with a flourish, symbolizing not just a fragrance but a symbol of the American way of life, a return to the gracious art of living. Vincent Roubert, the mastermind behind the perfume's creation, takes the stage, clasping a test tube of the completed sample, his voice filled with emotion as he describes the journey of bringing the perfume to life, uniting thirty ingredients in perfect harmony.

For those who may not understand French, a translator graciously provides a translation, ensuring that every guest can fully appreciate the significance of this moment. And as you inhale the exquisite scent of the perfume, savoring the flavors of the decadent luncheon before you, you can't help but feel swept up in the magic of this unforgettable experience.

With precision and flair, pumps, pipes, and fans are employed to disperse the fragrance throughout the room, enveloping the guests in a cloud of its intoxicating scent. As the perfume fills the air, mingling with the excitement and anticipation, Leonora Corbett steps forward to pronounce the final benediction, her voice a melodious backdrop to the olfactory sensation that surrounds you.

In this moment, the culmination of months of planning and preparation, a symphony of achievement reverberates through the ballroom. Leonora Corbett, Grover Whalen, Vincent Roubert, the Muse of Publicity, and even Apollo himself, have all played their part in this historic occasion, their efforts met with resounding applause and admiration from the guests.

Amid the fanfare and voracious hand-clapping, you can't help but feel a sense of awe and reverence for the magnitude of the moment. It's a celebration of creativity, innovation, and the enduring power of fragrance to captivate the senses and elevate the human experience. And as you bask in the aftermath of this unforgettable event, you're filled with a sense of gratitude for having been a part of history in the making.

 

A newspaper advertisement from 1946 described the perfume as

“ Muse by Coty…for a great new perfume is a rare event. A challenging new perfume…born in Paris and destined to become a classic with the passage of time. Muse is the climax of 8 years of subtle, masterful blending. The perfume for women who have the instinct to recognize a masterpiece at its inceptions. 1 oz- $15.00, 2 oz - $25.00, 4 oz - 50.00. Compounded and Copyrighted by Coty in US.”

Another advertisement reads

“ The Greeks had a word for it...Muse. To the Muses…Goddesses of the arts man has always turned for inspiration. With their aid he has transformed dreams into works of art. To make your own dreams a reality, Coty has created Muse…Here is all the wit, the charm, the loveliness of the Goddesses-captured in one great perfume for you. Born in the heart of Paris, use is the climax of eight years of sensitive composing, marked by many moments of discouragement but crowned by ultimate triumph… and subtle, masterful blending of more than thirty ingredients to create a new masterpiece in perfume.”

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It begins with a powdery aldehydic fruity top, followed by a soft floral heart, resting on a woody base. A soft perfume with a woody touch.

• Top notes: aldehydes, fruit notes, daffodil
• Middle notes: lily, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, iris, violet
• Base notes: vetiver, oakmoss, musk, tonka bean, sandalwood, amber, woody notes

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Muse by Coty: Its kiss is delicately fruity. Its fragrance, very flowery at the start, is supported by sandalwood and vetiver, it then blossoms with daffodils and Bulgarian rose."

Scent Profile:

Close your eyes and imagine yourself standing amidst the fragrant gardens of Mount Olympus, where the nine Muses reside, each embodying a different facet of art and inspiration. As you inhale deeply, you're greeted by the enchanting aroma of a perfume fit for these divine beings, a symphony of scents that dance upon the air like poetry in motion.

The journey begins with the top notes, a delicate interplay of aldehydes, fruit notes, and the sweetly intoxicating fragrance of daffodils. Each inhalation brings forth a burst of fruity freshness, reminiscent of the ambrosial nectar enjoyed by the gods themselves. The aldehydes lend a powdery softness to the composition, like a gentle breeze caressing your skin on a sun-kissed day.

As the scent unfolds, you find yourself immersed in the heart notes, a soft floral bouquet that captures the essence of springtime in full bloom. The heady aroma of lilies and jasmine fills the air, their intoxicating fragrance mingling with the delicate sweetness of Bulgarian rose and the earthy allure of iris and violet. It's as if you're wandering through a lush garden, surrounded by the beauty of nature in all its splendor.

But it's the base notes that truly anchor the fragrance, grounding it in a sense of warmth and depth. Vetiver and oakmoss evoke the verdant forests of ancient Greece, while musk and tonka bean add a sensual allure that lingers on the skin like a whispered promise. Sandalwood and amber impart a rich, woody aroma, reminiscent of sacred incense burning in a temple dedicated to the Muses.

As you continue to breathe in the scent, each note unfolding like a chapter in a story, you're transported to a realm of inspiration and creativity, where the muses reign supreme. This is more than just a perfume; it's a sensory journey, a tribute to the timeless beauty and artistry that continues to inspire us to this day.

Product Line:

The fragrance Muse by Coty has been offered in various forms over the years to cater to different preferences and needs of consumers. Here's an explanation of each product line:

• Perfume: Perfume is the most concentrated form of fragrance, containing a high concentration of aromatic compounds. It typically lasts the longest on the skin and is the most potent. Muse in perfume form would likely have the strongest and longest-lasting scent.

• Parfum de Toilette: Parfum de Toilette is a slightly lighter concentration than pure perfume but still stronger than eau de toilette. It offers a balance between potency and subtlety, making it suitable for everyday wear.

• Toilet Water (Eau de Toilette): Eau de Toilette is a lighter fragrance concentration compared to perfume and parfum de toilette. It usually contains a lower concentration of aromatic compounds and is designed to be refreshing and wearable throughout the day.

• Spray Mist: Spray mist is a lighter version of the fragrance, often packaged in a spray bottle for easy application. It provides a subtle veil of scent, perfect for a quick refresh or for those who prefer a lighter touch of fragrance.

• Dusting Powder: Dusting powder is a luxurious addition to the Muse product line. It typically contains fragranced powder that can be applied to the body to impart a delicate scent while also providing a silky-smooth feel to the skin.

By offering Muse in various forms, Coty aims to accommodate different preferences in fragrance intensity and application methods, ensuring that consumers can enjoy the scent in a way that best suits their individual tastes and lifestyles.

Bottle:

The deluxe parfum bottle of Muse by Coty epitomizes luxury and sophistication with its heavy clear crystal composition, adorned with intricate detailing. Featuring an inner stopper to preserve its precious contents and a large frosted glass overcap molded with rows of hobnails, this packaging exudes elegance from every angle. 

The juxtaposition of clear crystal and frosted glass not only adds visual intrigue but also highlights the exquisite craftsmanship behind its design. Available in a range of sizes including one ounce, two ounces, four ounces, and the rarely found eight-ounce option, this deluxe parfum bottle caters to diverse preferences while maintaining its status as a coveted collector's item.

Prices in 1948:

• 1 oz- $15.00 (would cost $198.45 in 2024 according to an inflation calculator)
• 2 oz - $25.00 (would cost $330.75 in 2024 according to an inflation calculator)
• 4 oz - 50.00 (would cost $661.49 in 2024 according to an inflation calculator)
• 8 oz - $100 (would cost $1,322.99 in 2024 according to an inflation calculator)

Cue, 1948:

"Coty presents a very gay, transparent package containing "Orchids" holding bottles of famous Muse and A'Suma perfumes. The whole thing is tied with orchid ribbon and is priced at $7.50."

The New Yorker, 1951:

"Muse, which has sold fairly well, is Coty's most expensive product; an eight- ounce bottle retails at a hundred dollars."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Muse by Coty, a fragrance renowned for its captivating scent and distinctive packaging, met its end around 1968 when it was discontinued. This decision to cease production likely stemmed from various factors, including shifts in consumer preferences, changes in the fragrance market, or strategic decisions made by Coty. Fragrance trends and consumer tastes can evolve over time, leading to the discontinuation of certain products as companies adapt to meet the demands of the market. Despite its discontinuation, Muse by Coty remains a memorable part of fragrance history, cherished by those who experienced its allure during its time on the market.