In 1926, the launch of Guili-Guili by Vigny coincided with a time when Western fascination with exoticism, particularly from Africa and Egypt, was at its peak. This period, often referred to as the height of Orientalism, saw European artists, writers, and designers drawing inspiration from the mystique and allure of distant lands. Egypt, with its ancient history and mysterious culture, held a special place in the Western imagination, fueled by archaeological discoveries and fantastical tales of magic and illusionists like Guili-Guili.
"Guili-Guili" itself is derived from the name of the Egyptian illusionist who captivated audiences with his extravagant performances. The name itself is playful and rhythmic, evoking a sense of mystery and exoticism. Vigny, in choosing this name, would have aimed to capitalize on the allure and fascination associated with Egypt and its mystical past.
For women of the time, a perfume named "Guili-Guili" would have promised an escape into a world of enchantment and intrigue. The name suggests a fragrance that is whimsical, perhaps with floral or spicy notes evoking the warmth and exoticism of North Africa. Women would have responded positively to such a perfume, seeking to embody the allure and sophistication associated with the mysterious East.
The word "Guili-Guili" conjures images of vibrant colors, shimmering sands, and the exotic aroma of spices and flowers. It evokes emotions of curiosity, excitement, and a longing for adventure. As a perfume name, it stands out for its uniqueness and ability to transport wearers to a world far beyond their everyday experiences.
Interpreted in the context of its time, "Guili-Guili" would have symbolized the allure of the unknown, tapping into the fascination with Egypt and its ancient mystique. It represents a clever marketing choice, appealing to consumers' desire for luxury and exoticism during a period marked by cultural exploration and discovery.
Guili-Guili:
Guili-Guili, the inspiration behind the perfume by Vigny launched in 1932, was a charismatic and enigmatic figure in the world of magic and illusion. Originally from Alexandria, Egypt, he gained fame as a magician known for his elaborate performances and exotic persona. Often mistaken for Luxor Gali-Gali, (Mahgoub Mohammed Hanafi, b1902-b1984), another renowned magician of the time, Guili-Guili distinguished himself with an intriguing backstory claiming he was 25,000 years old, a detail that added to his mystique. His performances, characterized by his Egyptian attire, featured a repertoire of mesmerizing tricks such as making eggs and chicks disappear, culminating in theatrical feats like producing a string of flags from his mouth.
Guili-Guili's first foray into the United States in 1926 marked a pivotal moment in his career. Invited by Mrs. Vincent Astor, a prominent socialite, he was flown from Paris to New York City at her expense to entertain her guests for a single night. His performance was so captivating that Mrs. Astor rewarded him generously with a $5,000 honorarium and an additional $1,000 bonus, reflecting his allure and the esteem in which he was held among the elite.
After spending 26 years in Paris, Guili-Guili eventually settled in Brooklyn, New York, where he became a naturalized U.S. citizen. During World War II, he dedicated three years to touring the United States, entertaining troops stationed across the country. His quote, "Mystery is what makes life worth living," as cited in a 1946 article in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, encapsulates his philosophy and the essence of his performances, which thrived on the allure of the unknown and the fantastical.
In essence, the perfume "Guili-Guili" by Vigny captured the essence of this magical persona, offering wearers a scent that embodied the exotic charm and mystery associated with Egypt and its illustrious illusionist. The fragrance likely aimed to evoke the same sense of wonder and fascination that Guili-Guili brought to his audiences, making it a fitting homage to a figure whose life was as captivating as his performances.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody oriental (amber) fragrance for women.
- Top notes: neroli, bergamot, almond, cassie, mandarin
- Middle notes: carnation, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose
- Base notes: ambergris, mahogany, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, musk, civet, tonka bean, labdanum, incense, myrrh
Guili-Guili, classified as a woody oriental (amber) fragrance for women, encompassed a captivating blend of ingredients that embodied its exotic and mysterious allure. While the exact composition details are not fully known, it is believed to have featured a rich combination of neroli, bergamot, almond, cassie, mandarin in the top notes, creating a vibrant and citrusy introduction reminiscent of Mediterranean orchards. The heart notes likely included carnation, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, gardenia, and tuberose, infusing the fragrance with a lush floral bouquet that evoked the essence of a North African garden in full bloom. At its base, Guili-Guili would have been anchored by ambergris, mahogany, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, musk, civet, tonka bean, labdanum, incense, and myrrh, lending depth and warmth to the scent profile. This complex blend would have enveloped its wearer in a luxurious and evocative aura, capturing the spirit of adventure and enchantment that defined its era.
As you enter the reception hall, the scent of neroli and bergamot greets you, refreshing and citrusy, mingling with the sweet almond and mandarin notes that hang in the air like the promise of an exotic feast. Large brass plates, resting elegantly on carved mahogany stands, are adorned with Jordanian almonds, offering a rich, nutty aroma that invites you to indulge in their earthy sweetness.
Amidst the lush bouquets of flowers on each table, the bronze-skinned serving girls glide by in striped tunics, their belts adorned with coins that chime softly with every graceful movement. The hall is infused with the intoxicating scent of carnation, orange blossom, and jasmine, mingling with tuberose and gardenia, creating an atmosphere that feels both opulent and inviting.
Incense wafts from brass braziers, filling the air with the warm, resinous notes of myrrh and labdanum. Sandalwood fans, delicately pierced and handed out to guests, carry the smoky aroma as they sway gently in your hand. The hall resonates with the spicy richness of cedar and vetiver, wrapped in the comforting warmth of patchouli and vanilla, creating a sensory tapestry that mirrors the vibrant hues of the tapestries adorning the walls.
As guests settle onto plush cushions around the large brass tables, their hands are sprinkled with orange blossom and rosewater, a delicate gesture that enhances the sensory experience. The evening unfolds with the mesmerizing movements of bellydancers, their silks swirling in vibrant patterns to the rhythmic beats that echo through the hall.
Amidst the spectacle, Guili-Guili takes the stage, his presence enigmatic and commanding. The base notes of ambergris and musk weave through the air, blending with the sensuous allure of civet and tonka bean. The perfume, "Guili-Guili," subtitled "Parfum des Tropiques," captures the essence of this exotic evening—a blend of mystery, elegance, and enchantment that lingers long after the last dance fades into the night.
Bottle:
Guili-Guili, subtitled "Tropical God of Good Fortune," promised an intriguing fragrance that added a new charm to the world of perfumery. Evoking a sense of exoticism and mystique, this perfume captured the essence of a tropical paradise where every scent note seemed to weave a tale of adventure and prosperity. The subtitle reflected its aspiration to bring luck and allure to those who wore it, embodying the spirit of a deity bestowing blessings in the form of a luxurious fragrance experience. With its blend of exotic ingredients and captivating aroma, Guili-Guili invited wearers to embrace a world of sophistication and enchantment, making it a coveted addition to any perfume collection during its time.
Illustrirte Zeitung, 1928:
"For the autumn examination, three senior students present the new novelty in perfume: Following the universally beloved Golliwogg, renowned perfumer Vigny from Paris, located on Rue St. Honoré, introduces another delightful surprise. Guili-Guili, a tropical fragrance and fetish of the Negro, brings the mysteries of Africa to the lady's dressing table. This novelty is expected to quickly captivate the world of women."
The bottle designed for "Guili-Guili" by Vigny in 1926 was a testament to both craftsmanship and thematic resonance. Standing at 6.25 inches tall, its design was meticulously crafted to embody the essence of luxury and exoticism. The bottle featured a head and foot made from carved mahogany, a choice that added a layer of richness and sophistication. The head of the bottle, resembling an African mask, covered the inner stopper, while the mahogany foot provided stability for the colorless crystal vessel to stand upright.
The decision to use mahogany was deliberate, reflecting the material's associations with quality, elegance, and cultural intrigue. While mahogany itself does not originate from Egypt, its use in decorative arts during this era often evoked a sense of exoticism and adventure. In the case of "Guili-Guili," the choice of mahogany may have been intended to enhance the perfume's narrative, aligning it with the fascination of Western audiences for the mystique of Africa and its distant cultures.
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By incorporating an African mask motif into the bottle's design, Vigny not only created a visually striking container but also infused it with symbolic meaning. The mask symbolized mystery and tradition, aligning with the persona of Guili-Guili, the illusionist from Alexandria, Egypt, whose performances captivated audiences with their exotic flair. Thus, the use of mahogany in the bottle's construction not only served practical purposes but also contributed to the perfume's overall narrative, enhancing its appeal as a luxurious and culturally resonant fragrance.
Cylindrical "Wartime" Bottle:
Starting around 1936-1937, Vigny transitioned to using plain bottles for their perfumes. These cylindrical crystal bottles featured disk-shaped ground glass stoppers and were manufactured in France by Baccarat. The cylindrical crystal bottle shown in the 1939 ad below illustrates the plain version of Guili-Guili, complete with its associated symbol on the label. Known as Baccarat model #524, these bottles were used at least from 1937 until 1947. Vigny issued explanations in newspaper ads, noting that due to the outbreak of World War II, they were unable to access the necessary materials for their deluxe bottles.
Curiously, the luxurious mahogany-topped bottles were discontinued as they were no longer available to Vigny as early as 1936.
The use of the plain Baccarat bottles were utilized at the same time as the "grenade" bottles in 1937. This period of transition highlights the impact of global events on the production and availability of luxury goods, as well as the adaptability of Vigny in maintaining their brand's presence during challenging times.
Grenade Bottle:
For those unable to afford the luxurious mahogany-topped deluxe bottle, Guili-Guili was also offered in more affordable options, such as the "grenade" bottles used for other Vigny fragrances. These bottles, produced by Verreries Brosse from about 1937 to the 1960s, are ovoid in shape with a distinctive puffed windowpane pattern resembling a grenade. The stoppers feature the same pattern with a flat, highly polished top, available in various materials including glass, plastic, and brass screw caps for mini bottles. The "grenade" bottles housed a range of products including parfum, eau de toilette, lotion, and eau de cologne, with sizes ranging from micro mini bottles at 0.18 oz (5.32ml) to larger options like the 16 oz (480ml) eau de cologne bottle. These bottles are prized among collectors for their unique design and historical significance within the perfume industry.
- 0.18 oz (also listed as 5/28 oz or 5.32ml) Parfum stands 1.75" tall (considered the micro mini bottle has plastic screw cap)
- 5/16 oz (9.24ml, also listed as 1/4 oz) - Parfum bottle stands 2.5" tall
- 5/8 oz (18ml) - Parfum bottle stands 2.87" tall
- 1/4 oz (also listed as 2/7 oz, 8ml) Parfum bottle stands
- 1/2 oz (15ml) Parfum bottle stands 2.75" tall
- 1 oz (30ml) Parfum bottle stands 3" tall.
- stands 3.25" tall.
- 2 oz Eau de Cologne stands 3.75" tall.
- 4 oz Eau de Cologne bottle stands 4.75" tall.
- 8 oz Eau de Cologne bottle stands 5.75" tall.
- 16 oz Eau de Cologne bottle stands 9" tall.
- 4 oz Eau de Toilette bottle stands 4.75" tall
- 2 oz Lotion bottle stands 3.75" tall.
Fate of the Fragrance:
Unfortunately, despite its initial allure and cultural resonance, the perfume Guili-Guili by Vigny was eventually discontinued. The parfum in the distinctive mahogany-topped bottle was discontinued in 1937. However, the eau de cologne version remained available in the "grenade" bottle until as late as 1949. This shift was likely influenced by changing trends in perfumery, economic challenges following World War II, and evolving consumer preferences towards lighter fragrances. Guili-Guili, with its exotic name and evocative scent profile, remains a nostalgic memory of a time when perfumes were meticulously crafted with cultural inspiration and artistic flair.
Today, the striking mahogany-topped bottles of Guili-Guili's perfume are highly sought after and exceedingly rare. Collectors are advised to seize any opportunity to acquire them, though they should be prepared for exorbitant prices due to their scarcity. These bottles have become prized possessions among perfume aficionados, symbolizing not just a fragrance but a piece of history and craftsmanship from a bygone era. Their elusive nature only adds to their allure, making them a coveted treasure for those fortunate enough to add them to their collection.
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