Vintage Counterfeit Perfumes and Fantasy Fakes

During the 20th century, the perfume industry was rife with counterfeiting at every turn. There was some trickery going on in the 1930s-1950s regarding designer named perfumes. I can find famous names on bogus labels for perfumes in bottles that you would never see used by that brand. Various con men had boxes and labels printed up, then decanted or adulterated, refilling cheaper bottles with even cheaper perfume, then slapping the newly printed labels on them, and passing them off as genuine.

I have created a comprehensive guide for fake vintage perfumes going back to the 1920s and into the 1970s. Much of the crucial information I have gathered has been revealed nowhere else and it can answer a lot of questions regarding so called "rare" editions or bottles of designer perfumes. 

Discussed in this guide are rebottlers, fake pricing schemes, and outright counterfeits. A significant portion of the guide is devoted to what I call "fantasy fakes." Fantasy fakes are, in my own parlance and definition, is the usage of bottles and labels that a genuine perfumery brand would have never used. This also includes names of perfumes that were never part of their catalog such as "Ce Soir Ou Jamais" by Christian Dior. I have done extensive research on these in order to determine whether they are genuine or fake. You might be surprised, delighted or even disappointed at the information I uncovered.

Before you shell out hundreds for a rare "Poiret" perfume bottle, please see my guide first!

Si by Schiaparelli c1957

In 1957, when Schiaparelli launched her perfume "Si," it was a time marked by post-war optimism and a resurgence of creativity in fashion and art. The name "Si" carries a multifaceted significance that intertwines with both music and the essence of Schiaparelli herself. Derived from the "Valse des Si," a waltz composed by Henri Sauguet dedicated to Schiaparelli, "Si" resonates with musical notes, particularly the note B, and also serves as a play on the French word for "yes" and the English pronoun "it." The name cleverly incorporates the first and last letters of Schiaparelli's surname, embodying a personal touch that reflects her bold and innovative spirit.

Additionally, the association with Juliette Gréco's song "Si" adds another layer of cultural resonance. Gréco, known for her avant-garde style and artistic expression, infused the song "Si" with emotional depth and modernity, mirroring Schiaparelli's approach to fashion and fragrance. Thus, "Si" as a perfume name not only captures musical inspiration but also embodies a sense of sophistication, allure, and artistic flair that defined the era.

The choice of "Si" as a perfume name would have resonated deeply with individuals who appreciated Schiaparelli's avant-garde designs and sought to embody her unique blend of creativity and elegance. Those attracted to the perfume would likely respond with intrigue and admiration, drawn to its evocative name and the promise of a fragrance that encapsulated Schiaparelli's daring and innovative vision.

Snuff by Schiaparelli c1939

In 1939, the time period when Schiaparelli launched the perfume "Snuff," the world was on the brink of World War II. This era was characterized by a blend of elegance and practicality in men's fashion, reflecting a society poised between the opulence of the pre-war years and the impending austerity of wartime. Tweed suits were particularly fashionable, embodying a rugged yet refined aesthetic suitable for both formal occasions and outdoor pursuits.

Elsa Schiaparelli, known for her innovative approach to fashion, also ventured into the realm of men's fragrances with "Snuff." The name "Snuff" was inspired by the color brown, which Schiaparelli whimsically dubbed "Snuff," likening it to the fine, powdered tobacco used for sniffing. This choice of name cleverly tied the fragrance to a sense of tradition and sophistication, evoking an image of old-world charm and refinement.

"Scent" would appeal to men who appreciated classic, understated elegance. The fragrance itself was classified as dry, woodsy-mossy, perfectly complementing the rugged yet polished style associated with tweed suits and outdoor activities. It would likely resonate with gentlemen who valued subtlety and timeless sophistication in their grooming choices.

The word "Snuff" evokes images of finely ground tobacco, old leather-bound books, and perhaps even the rustic charm of a gentleman's study. It carries connotations of tradition, refinement, and a hint of nostalgia for a bygone era of masculine elegance.

Shocking You by Schiaparelli c1976

The mid-1970s was a time of cultural shifts and fashion experimentation. Following the tumultuous 1960s, which saw significant social and political changes, the 1970s continued to break traditional norms. This decade was marked by a mix of rebellion against the status quo and a desire for individual expression. Disco culture was flourishing, with its vibrant, extravagant fashion, while the punk movement was beginning to emerge, challenging conventional aesthetics and societal expectations. Amid this backdrop, fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, known for her avant-garde and surrealist designs, made a significant impact.

Schiaparelli, a contemporary of Coco Chanel, was renowned for her bold, unconventional approach to fashion. Her designs often featured unexpected elements, such as her famous lobster dress and her collaborations with surrealist artist Salvador Dalí. Schiaparelli's connection to perfumes was a natural extension of her brand, blending her artistic vision with olfactory creations. She understood that a fragrance could be as much a part of a woman's identity as her clothing, and her perfumes were designed to complement her daring fashion.

The name "Shocking You" is a nod to Schiaparelli's iconic fragrance "Shocking," which was introduced in 1937 and named after her signature shocking pink color. "Shocking You," launched in 1976, would evoke the same sense of surprise and boldness that characterized Schiaparelli's work. The name suggests a fragrance that is daring, provocative, and unapologetically bold, capturing the spirit of the era's desire for self-expression and rebellion.

"Shocking You" would be an appropriate name for a perfume because it encapsulates the essence of Schiaparelli's brand—unconventional, vibrant, and designed to make a statement. It implies a scent that would stand out, defy expectations, and leave a lasting impression, much like Schiaparelli's fashion.

Sleeping by Schiaparelli c1938

In 1938, the launch of the perfume "Sleeping" by Schiaparelli occurred amidst a period marked by both artistic innovation and looming geopolitical tensions. Elsa Schiaparelli, the fashion designer behind the fragrance, was renowned for her avant-garde approach to fashion, often blending surrealism with high fashion. This era saw a burgeoning interest in abstract and dreamlike concepts, mirroring the escapism sought by many in the face of economic hardship and impending global conflict.

Schiaparelli's connection to perfumes was deeply intertwined with her fashion philosophy. She viewed fragrance as an extension of her artistic vision, using it to complement and enhance the narrative of her clothing collections. Her perfumes were not merely scents, but stories told through olfactory notes, evoking emotions and imagery akin to her fashion designs.

The name "Sleeping" for a perfume chosen by Schiaparelli carries layers of symbolism. "Sleeping" suggests a state of tranquility, serenity, and perhaps even latent potential waiting to be awakened. In the context of 1938, amidst growing political tensions and uncertainty, a perfume named "Sleeping" could be seen as an invitation to escape into dreams and fantasy, offering a temporary respite from the harsh realities of the world.

Those who related to a perfume named "Sleeping" might be drawn to its promise of tranquility and escape. They might respond to its fragrance as a soothing balm for the mind, evoking images of serene landscapes, gentle breezes, or the softness of a quiet morning. The scent itself would likely embody floral and powdery notes, invoking a sense of comfort and nostalgia.

Zut by Schiaparelli c1948

In 1948, the time period when Schiaparelli launched her perfume "Zut," Europe was emerging from the aftermath of World War II, entering a period of recovery and renewal marked by a blend of nostalgia for pre-war elegance and a burgeoning interest in modernity. This was reflected in fashion trends moving towards more streamlined silhouettes and a mix of optimism and reflection in art and culture.

Elsa Schiaparelli, known for her avant-garde approach to fashion, was also a trailblazer in the world of perfumes. Her connection to perfumes stemmed from her belief that fragrance was an essential part of one's personal style, akin to wearing a piece of clothing. Schiaparelli collaborated with renowned perfumers like Jean Carles and worked with the fragrance house Roure to create scents that embodied her bold and innovative spirit.

The name "Zut," meaning "damn" in French, was characteristic of Schiaparelli's irreverent and daring style. For her, choosing "Zut" as a name for a perfume was likely a playful defiance of convention, injecting a touch of her trademark wit and sass into the fragrance. This name would have resonated with individuals who appreciated Schiaparelli's unconventional approach to fashion and beauty, appealing to those seeking something distinctive and daring in their perfume choices.

Soucis de Schiaparelli c1934

In 1934, the launch of "Soucis de Schiaparelli" coincided with a vibrant and transformative period in both fashion and fragrance. Elsa Schiaparelli, the renowned fashion designer known for her avant-garde creations and bold artistic vision, extended her influence into the realm of perfumery. The 1930s marked a time of artistic exploration and daring innovation in perfume composition, mirroring the era's embrace of modernism and social change.

Elsa Schiaparelli's connection to perfumes was deeply intertwined with her fashion philosophy, which challenged traditional norms and embraced surrealism and whimsy. Just as her clothing designs pushed boundaries with their unconventional shapes and vibrant colors, Schiaparelli approached perfumery with a desire to create scents that embodied her artistic vision.

The name "Soucis," chosen by Schiaparelli for her perfume, holds significant meaning. "Soucis" is the French word for "care" or "worry." In the context of a perfume, this name suggests a nuanced approach to femininity and self-expression. It implies a fragrance that accompanies a woman through her daily life, providing a comforting and reassuring presence. The choice of "Soucis" reflects Schiaparelli's keen understanding of the emotional and psychological dimensions of scent, aiming to offer more than just a pleasant aroma but a companion that soothes and uplifts.

Edie Adams and Perfumes c1956

Actress Edie Adams and her perfume bottle collection in 1956.

I can see several bottles of:
Balmain perfumes
Lanvin perfumes
Guerlain watch bottle for eau de cologne
Le Galion bottles
Narcisse Noir by Caron
Succes Fou by Schiaparelli (leaf shaped flacon)
Fille d'Eve by Nina Ricci (Lalique apple flacon)
Nuit de Noel by Caron
Cairo by Kesma
Ecusson by Jean Desprez (she is holding this flacon)
1940s pressed glass flacons imitating the Czech styles of the 1930s with the large stoppers.

Le Roy Soleil by Schiaparelli c1947

In 1947, the world was emerging from the devastation of World War II, a conflict that had profoundly altered social, economic, and cultural landscapes globally. The end of the war brought a mix of relief and a collective desire for renewal and celebration. Elsa Schiaparelli, renowned for her avant-garde fashion designs and innovative approach to fragrance, launched "Le Roy Soleil" as a tribute to mark this pivotal moment in history. The perfume aimed to encapsulate the opulence and magnificence associated with the reign of Louis XIV of France, often referred to as the Sun King.

Schiaparelli's choice of the name "Le Roy Soleil" was deliberate and multifaceted. Louis XIV's era represented a pinnacle of French cultural and artistic achievement, characterized by grandeur, refinement, and a flourishing of the arts. By naming her perfume after the Sun King, Schiaparelli sought to evoke the essence of this golden age—its luxury, sophistication, and the aura of divine right associated with monarchy. "Le Roy Soleil" not only paid homage to a historical figure but also symbolized a return to elegance and an aspiration for a brighter future after the dark years of war.

"Le Roy Soleil" would have resonated deeply with those who appreciated history, art, and luxury. It would appeal to individuals with a penchant for nostalgia and a longing for the cultural richness of past eras. Those who related to the perfume would likely respond with admiration, seeing it as a fragrance that transports them to an era of courtly splendor and refined tastes. The scent itself would be expected to embody the opulence and allure of Louis XIV's court, perhaps featuring notes of exotic spices, rich florals, and precious woods that evoke the ambiance of royal gardens and luxurious palaces.

The name "Le Roy Soleil" evokes images of shimmering sunlight filtering through ornate windows of grand palaces, intricate gardens adorned with fountains, and the sumptuous fabrics and perfumes worn by royalty. It evokes feelings of warmth, splendor, and a sense of being transported to a time when art and culture flourished under the patronage of a powerful monarch. For those familiar with French history or enchanted by tales of bygone royal courts, "Le Roy Soleil" promises a sensorial journey into a world of timeless elegance and majesty.

Salut de Schiaparelli c1934

In 1934, the launch of Schiaparelli's perfume "Salut" coincided with a vibrant period in both fashion and cultural history. Elsa Schiaparelli, the pioneering fashion designer known for her avant-garde creations, had already made a significant mark on the fashion world with her daring designs and collaborations with artists like Salvador Dalí. During this time, the world was emerging from the depths of the Great Depression, and there was a growing sense of optimism and vitality in society.

Elsa Schiaparelli's connection to perfumes was part of her broader vision to offer women a complete aesthetic experience. Perfumes, in her view, were not just fragrances but essential accessories that complemented her innovative clothing designs. This approach resonated particularly well in the 1930s, where fashion and perfume were intertwined in the concept of total elegance and style.

The choice of the name "Salut" for the perfume carries several layers of meaning. "Salut," which translates from French as "Hello" or "Greetings," suggests a friendly and welcoming tone. It evokes a sense of cheerfulness and social interaction, fitting well with the lively atmosphere of the time. In the context of a perfume, "Salut" could be seen as a gesture of homage or acknowledgment — a salute to femininity, elegance, and the spirit of the era.

For Schiaparelli, naming a perfume "Salut" was a deliberate choice to capture the essence of youthfulness and vitality. It would appeal to young women who embraced modernity and were looking for fragrances that reflected their dynamic lifestyle. The perfume was recommended for young girls, aligning perfectly with Schiaparelli's vision of empowering women through fashion and beauty.

Succes Fou by Schiaparelli c1953

Succes Fou by Schiaparelli: launched in 1953. The name means "Raving Success" or "Smash Hit" in French. Only launched in USA in 1953.

Shocking by Schiaparelli c1936

The perfume "Shocking" by Elsa Schiaparelli was launched in a period marked by dramatic societal changes and a flourishing of artistic innovation. The year was 1936 in France and 1937 in the USA, an era still feeling the aftershocks of the Great Depression, yet brimming with a spirit of recovery and defiance against convention. The fashion world, particularly in Paris, was a beacon of this defiant creativity. Elsa Schiaparelli, a leading couturier, was renowned for her avant-garde designs that often bordered on the surreal. She was a contemporary and rival of Coco Chanel, known for pushing the boundaries of fashion and art.

Schiaparelli's connection to perfumes was influenced significantly by her mentor, Paul Poiret, one of the first designers to incorporate perfumes into his couture offerings. Poiret recognized that a signature scent could encapsulate and enhance the allure of his fashion creations, and Schiaparelli embraced this philosophy wholeheartedly. By adding perfumes to her line, Schiaparelli not only followed in Poiret's footsteps but also carved out a distinctive identity for her brand, blending fashion with fragrance to create a complete sensory experience.

The name "Shocking" was a deliberate and bold choice. It was inspired by a particular shade of hot pink that Schiaparelli herself dubbed "Shocking Pink," a color that became a hallmark of her brand. This vivid, attention-grabbing hue was not just a color but a statement—a challenge to the muted tones and conservative sensibilities of the time. Naming the perfume "Shocking" was a way to encapsulate this daring spirit in a scent. It was a name that promised excitement, audacity, and a break from the ordinary, much like Schiaparelli's fashion designs.

"Shocking" was an appropriate name for the perfume because it encapsulated the essence of Schiaparelli's brand: unexpected, provocative, and unforgettable. The word "Shocking" itself evokes images of boldness and intensity. It suggests a jolt to the senses, something that disrupts the norm and demands attention. For a perfume, it implies a scent that is powerful and memorable, one that leaves a lasting impression.

The perfume "Shocking" would have resonated with women who identified with Schiaparelli's daring and unconventional style. These were women who were not afraid to stand out and make a statement. They would have responded to "Shocking" with a sense of empowerment and delight, reveling in a scent that matched their bold personalities. This perfume would appeal to the modern woman of the 1930s who embraced new freedoms and expressed her individuality through fashion and fragrance.

The word "Shocking" evokes images of vibrant energy and fearless innovation. It conjures feelings of excitement, surprise, and a bit of rebellion. For those who wore "Shocking," it would be a badge of their daring spirit, a declaration of their willingness to defy expectations and revel in their unique style. This perfume was not just a fragrance but an embodiment of the audacious and avant-garde ethos that Schiaparelli championed, making it an iconic creation that continues to resonate with those who appreciate bold artistry and fearless self-expression.

Created by the talented perfumer Jean Carles, "Shocking" was said to have been initially developed for Schiaparelli's personal use. This intimate origin story added to its allure, suggesting a scent so captivating that it was initially reserved for the designer herself. According to a 1938 newspaper ad, this personal touch added a layer of exclusivity and allure, enticing customers with the promise of a scent that carried the personal imprimatur of one of fashion's most innovative minds.