Complice de Francois Coty c1973

Francois Coty originally created Complice ('Accomplice') in 1934, but died before it could be launched. It remained on ice until 1973, when the Coty company launched it in a period design bottle. The name Complice was filed for trademark in 1939, company claimed use since 1938.

It was reported in a 1975 newspaper blurb that "nostalgia for the Twenties has just made Coty revive its old-timer, "Complice," which was less risky than launching a new perfume, as well as much cheaper. This nostalgia may yet lead to a perfume revival. If the fad for the romantic and exotic is not too short-lived, it may enable the industry to regain lost ground."

I believe they are referring to the old Coty perfume Accomplice. I know that the composition of Complice (most likely the original Accomplice fragrance) was based on notes left by Francois Coty. However, I believe that they used the base for Accomplice and then added modern ingredients to update the fragrance to appeal to new consumers. It was said that the perfume was first conceived in 1934, before Coty's death. Forty years later, his notes were developed and the perfume marketed around the world. Even Coty's original design for the bottle, with its Lalique-inspired frosted crystal stopper, had been faithfully copied.

When Coty launched Complice in France, late in 1974, it was held just outside Paris at the Chateau d'Artigny, an estate which was once owned by Francois Coty. For the Australian launch in 1975, the Hilton Hotel in Sydney was chosen for its debut. Guests were offered a touch of Paris of the past with a champagne breakfast complete with hot delicacies, including scrumptious pastries and various slices of juicy melons. 

Glyndebourne Festival Opera, 1977:

"Complice, conceived by Francois Coty. A perfume decades ahead of its time, a fragrance orchestrated in a thousand tones, an infinity of textures. And pronounced, by acclaim, the fragrance of the century Complice de Francois Coty."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women,  It begins with a spicy aldehydic top, followed by a sweet floral heart, layered over a warm, woody base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, hyacinth, marigold, bergamot oil, orange blossom, peach, spice oils, neroli
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, reseda, magnolia, carnation,  jasmine, lilac, lily of the valley, narcissus, rose
• Base notes: orris, wormwood, Siamese benzoin, Tibetan civet, Indian musk, oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood and vetiver

 

Cosmopolitan, 1978:

"Very elegant, very feminine, totally seductive...that's Coty's Complice de François Coty (he was the legendary perfumer who founded the famous House of Coty). The scent is a delectable fusion of floral notes underscored with rich, earthy tones of moss and spices...opulent, alluring, yet fresh and young and rather frisky! One ounce, $70."

A 1979 advertisement in the Reading Eagle newspaper reads:

“A THRILLING NEW FRAGRANCE COMPLICE DE FRANCOIS COTY. A fragrance so exquisite and timeless, it will ride above the changing tides of fashion. Inspired by the legendary Francois Coty and imported from France, for a discerning few. It is a poetic profusion of floral notes with moss and spicy woods…flawlessly feminine and becoming to any woman. Give Complice for Mother’s Day in many ways…Parfum $25-$70, Eau de Toilette (non aerosol sprays) $12.50 -$16, Parfume Soap 3 cakes plus soap case $16.00.”

Bottle:

The bottle and its packaging are designed in the Art Nouveau style, designed by Pierre Dinand. The bottle is made up of clear crystal, and the stopper in the shape of an abstract flower is made up of molded frosted glass. Though the bottle was made by Coty’s own glassworks (also by Pochet et du Courval, whose mark is an entwined HP), it directly evokes images of Rene Lalique. 

The stopper shape is directly inspired by the ornate Tiara stoppered flacons manufactured by Lalique in the early part of the 20th century. Even the label smacks of Lalique’s style, the gilded embossing and lettering font was very indicative of the labels first designed by Rene Lalique for Coty.

Many people claim the bottle and stopper are by Lalique, but they were not. It was however, designed to infinitely link Lalique and Coty together.

The box is also lovely, an embossed design of leaves in cream on white.

If your classic Complice bottle is missing its box or label and you are unsure of the size, my handy guide below will help you determine what capacity the bottle holds.

• 0.1 oz Parfum miniature bottle stands 1.5" tall and has a plastic floral stopper.
• 0.25 oz Parfum  bottle stands 2.25" tall.
• 0.5 oz Parfum bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 1 oz Parfum bottle stands 3.25" tall.
• 2 oz Parfum bottle stands 4" tall.
• 9.5 oz Factice (dummy bottle filled with colored water)

Complice Catalog/Inventory Numbers, I will add more as I find them:

• 533.06 - 0.1 oz Parfum miniature  
•              - 0.16 oz Parfum Purse Spray (Parfum, pour le sac)
• 133.06 - 0.16 oz Parfum Purse Spray Refill (Parfum, pour le sac)
• 183.06 - 0.25 oz Parfum  
• 184.06 - 0.5 oz Parfum
• 185.06 - 1 oz Parfum
• 186.06 - 2 oz Parfum
•             - 4 oz Parfum
• 500.06 - 0.25 oz Eau de Toilette miniature
• 189.06  - 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
•              - 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 190.06  - 3 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
• 127.06 - 2 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 128.06 - 4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 129.06 - 8 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
•             - Bath Soap
•             - Bath Soap (package of three)
•             - Talc

Fate of the Fragrance:

 I believe that Complice was discontinued around 1990, it is possible to find bottles of the perfume and the eau de toilettes, but because of their scarcity, the prices can be exorbitant.