La Fuite des Heures/Fleeting Moment by Balenciaga c1947

"La Fuite des Heures" or "Fleeting Moment" by Balenciaga is a classic fragrance that was launched in 1947. It's renowned for its elegant and timeless scent, capturing the essence of fleeting moments with its sophisticated blend of notes. Germaine Cellier, a prominent perfumer known for her bold and innovative creations, was the mastermind behind this iconic fragrance. By 1949, it had made its way to the USA, further solidifying its status as a beloved scent worldwide.

Miracle by Lentheric c1924

In 1924, when Lentheric launched the perfume "Miracle - Miracle," the world was amidst a transformative era marked by artistic and cultural revolutions. This period, known as the Roaring Twenties, epitomized a newfound sense of liberation and decadence following the First World War. The name "Miracle - Miracle" was carefully chosen to resonate with the zeitgeist of the time, capturing the spirit of optimism, innovation, and fascination with the extraordinary.

Against this backdrop, Max Reinhardt's play "Miracle" became a sensation, starring the enchanting actress Diana Manners, celebrated for her beauty and charm. The play itself symbolized the allure of theatrical magic and the ability to transport audiences to realms of wonder and fantasy. Lentheric's decision to name their perfume after this play was strategic, aiming to evoke a sense of enchantment and allure that resonated with the desires of the era's cosmopolitan and sophisticated clientele.

Moreover, the name "Miracle - Miracle" suggests not only the miraculous allure of the fragrance itself but also the transformative power it promises to its wearer. Just as Diana Manners captured hearts on stage, the perfume sought to captivate with its elegant blend of scents, promising wearers a touch of theatrical glamour and sophistication. In essence, the choice of name was a nod to the cultural currents of the time, where art, theater, and beauty converged to create moments of pure enchantment and allure, mirroring the essence of Lentheric's exquisite fragrance.

Garwood's Standard Perfumes

Philadelphia; claimed established in 1852; most likely c1873; a subsidiary of Schandein & Lind in c1900; launched a range of fragrances in the first quarter of 20th century.

Monsieur de Rauch by Madeleine de Rauch c1950

Monsieur de Rauch, a fragrance attributed to the fashion house of Madeleine de Rauch, was launched in either 1950 or 1966, according to the Dictionnaire des Parfums (1972-1973 edition). Madeleine de Rauch, the creative force behind the brand, was a French couturier who ventured into the world of perfumery, much like many designers of the time. Her haute couture house was known for its elegance and understated luxury, which naturally carried over into her fragrances. As a designer, she sought to reflect her refined aesthetic not only in fashion but also in scent, offering perfumes that resonated with sophistication and class.

The choice of the name "Monsieur de Rauch" appears to be deeply rooted in a sense of heritage and prestige. In French, "Monsieur" simply means "Mister," a formal title of respect for men, while "de Rauch" refers to the designer's family name. In terms of pronunciation, "Monsieur de Rauch" would sound like Muh-syuh duh Rosh, with the final "ch" pronounced like the “sh” in “shush.” The use of "Monsieur" in the fragrance's name evokes an image of an elegant, well-groomed gentleman, possibly one of aristocratic lineage or refined taste. The name conjures feelings of respect, formality, and timeless masculinity, suggesting that this fragrance was intended for a man who values sophistication and carries himself with dignity.

For men of the period in which Monsieur de Rauch was released, the fragrance likely conveyed a sense of identity. During the mid-20th century, men's fragrances were often marketed to reflect ideals of strength, maturity, and refinement. A scent named "Monsieur de Rauch" would appeal to the gentleman who wished to exude a sense of command and elegance. The name suggests not only a fragrance but an entire persona — someone who appreciates the finer things in life, perhaps reminiscent of a French aristocrat or a man of business and social standing.

When translated into a scent, "Monsieur de Rauch" was created by master perfumers Raymond Chaillan and Jacques Bercia. It is described as a refreshing yet bittersweet citrus-woody fragrance, with prominent woody and lemony notes. This blend suggests a balance of sharpness and warmth, with the citrus offering a clean, invigorating opening, and the woods adding a depth that speaks to masculinity and stability. The bittersweet quality points to a sense of maturity, making the fragrance suitable for a man who is confident and complex.

Marie Earle Perfumes

Established in 5th Avenue New York in 1910.

Colgate Perfumes

Colgate & Co. was located at 55 John Street New York. Established 1806. Richard M. Colgate, Gilbert Colgate, Sidney M. Colgate, Austen Colgate.

Key Dates:

• 1806: Company is founded by William Colgate in New York to make starch, soap, and candles.
• 1857: After founder's death, company becomes known as Colgate & Company.
• 1873: Toothpaste is first marketed.
• 1896: Collapsible tubes for toothpaste are introduced.
• 1898: B.J. Johnson Soap Company (later renamed Palmolive Company) introduces Palmolive soap.
• 1910: Colgate moves from original location to Jersey City, New Jersey.
• 1926: Palmolive merges with Peet Brothers, creating Palmolive-Peet Company.
• 1928: Colgate and Palmolive-Peet merge, forming Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.
• 1947: Fab detergent and Ajax cleanser are introduced.
• 1953: Company changes its name to Colgate-Palmolive Company.
• 1956: Corporate headquarters shifts back to New York.
• 1966: Palmolive dishwashing liquid is introduced.
• 1967: Sales top $1 billion.
• 1968: Colgate toothpaste is reformulated with fluoride; Ultra Brite is introduced.
• 1976: Hill's Pet Products is purchased.
• 1987: The Softsoap brand of liquid soap is acquired.
• 1992: The Mennen Company is acquired; Total toothpaste is introduced overseas.
• 1995: Latin American firm Kolynos Oral Care is acquired; Colgate-Palmolive undergoes major restructuring.
• 1997: Total toothpaste is launched in the United States; Colgate takes lead in domestic toothpaste market.
• 2004: Company acquires European oral care firm GABA Holding AG; major restructuring is launched.

Colgate Company of Jersey City, NJ from 1879 to 1959.

Colgate & Company had been a pioneer in establishing international operations, creating a Canadian subsidiary in 1913 and one in France in 1920. In the early 1920s the firm expanded into Australia, the United Kingdom, Germany, and Mexico. Colgate or its successor firm next created subsidiaries in the Philippines, Brazil, Argentina, and South Africa in the late 1920s. In 1937 the company moved into India and by the end of the 1940s had operations in most of South America. By 1939 Colgate-Palmolive-Peet's sales hit $100 million.

Electric Youth by Debbie Gibson c1989

Electric Youth by Debbie Gibson: Launched in 1989 in association with Revlon. Named after the best selling pop album and song.

What are Marine Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Marine:

Marine fragrances, one of the freshest and most evocative families in perfumery, are designed to capture the invigorating essence of the ocean and the freshness of the sea breeze. The marine note is often described as "aquatic" or "oceanic," transporting the wearer to the scent of saltwater, fresh air, and the tranquil scent of the ocean. This theme emerged as one of the newest in the perfume world, driven by the desire to evoke the natural freshness of the seaside. However, capturing the true essence of ocean air is virtually impossible, so perfumers rely on specific ingredients to recreate this watery sensation.

One of the most important ingredients in marine fragrances is Calone, a synthetic molecule that has a distinct aquatic aroma. As you breathe in the scent of Calone, you are hit with an almost metallic sharpness, like the clean, brisk air just before a storm. It feels as though you're standing on the edge of a cliff, with the ocean spray gently misting the air around you. The scent of Calone is at once refreshing and soothing, reminiscent of a cool ocean breeze brushing past your skin, mingling with the salty sea air.

To enhance the oceanic character, ambergris is often used. This material, derived from the digestive system of sperm whales, offers a rich, musky, and slightly sweet scent, which balances out the sharper notes of Calone. Ambergris gives marine perfumes depth and complexity, adding a warm, almost earthy undertone that simulates the feel of ancient sea air, deep and weathered by time. As you inhale, you experience the sensation of being on a beach, with the sun-warmed sand beneath your feet, the vastness of the ocean stretching out in front of you, and the deep, calming fragrance of ambergris surrounding you.

What are Citrus Fragrances?

Citrus fragrances, also known as hesperidic perfumes, are celebrated for their refreshing, zesty, and invigorating qualities. Derived from the peel of citrus fruits, these fragrances immediately evoke feelings of cleanliness, brightness, and vitality. The primary notes in citrus fragrances come from common fruits like lemons, oranges, tangerines, and grapefruit. These fruits provide a fresh, sharp, and often tangy opening to the fragrance, with their natural zestiness cutting through the air like a burst of sunlight. The scent of freshly peeled fruit, its rind releasing a clean, tart aroma, is both energizing and refreshing, making citrus scents popular in spring and summer.

More exotic citrus fruits such as bergamot, citron, yuzu, and petitgrain introduce unique twists to the classic citrus profile. Bergamot, for instance, brings a slightly floral, aromatic edge to the typical citrus tang, with its bittersweet yet uplifting fragrance. Known for its use in Earl Grey tea, bergamot is a sophisticated citrus, bright yet with a subtle complexity that elevates it beyond the common orange. Citron, with its bold, slightly sweet aroma, is another exotic citrus that is often used in high-end perfumes for its clean, crisp scent. Yuzu, a Japanese citrus, offers an almost effervescent quality, with a vibrant, tangy fragrance that is refreshing without being overpowering. Petitgrain, extracted from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, provides a more herbal and woody citrus note, which blends beautifully with other citrus fruits.

The highly aromatic neroli, which is distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, is another key player in citrus fragrances. Neroli adds a soft, sweet floral quality to the citrus blend, offering a light, almost honeyed undertone to balance the sharper, more tangy citrus notes. The presence of neroli in a citrus fragrance often imparts a sense of lightness, elegance, and freshness, reminiscent of blooming orange trees in full flower.

The classic Eau de Cologne is one of the most iconic examples of a citrus fragrance. Typically light and crisp, it features a dominant citrus profile, with lemon and orange notes at the forefront. Eau de Cologne's versatility and refreshing qualities have made it a timeless choice for both men and women, evoking an image of cleanliness and vitality.

Citrus fragrances are not confined to just the fresh, fruity qualities; they can also be combined with various other elements to create distinctive olfactory experiences. The floral chypre citrus blend merges the tangy brightness of citrus with the soft, powdery notes of floral and mossy chypre bases, offering a fragrance that is both refreshing and sophisticated. The citrus spicy variation introduces warmth and depth with the addition of spicy notes like ginger, cinnamon, or cardamom, giving the fragrance a more dynamic and complex character. Citrus woody fragrances combine the crisp citrus notes with grounding woody elements like sandalwood or cedar, offering a balanced scent that is both fresh and earthy. Citrus amber blends the sharpness of citrus with the warm, resinous richness of amber, creating a fragrance that feels radiant yet cozy. Lastly, citrus aromatic fragrances incorporate herbs and aromatic spices, adding a green, herbal edge to the citrus profile, often with notes of lavender, rosemary, or thyme, offering a fragrance that is herbaceous and invigorating.

In conclusion, citrus fragrances stand out for their bright, refreshing, and invigorating qualities, making them perfect for those seeking a burst of energy in their perfumes. Whether pure and simple or complexly blended with spices, florals, woods, or amber, citrus fragrances offer endless variations, each capturing the essence of sun-drenched orchards and bright, zesty citrus fruits.

Fragrances that are classified as Citrus are:

• Armani by Giorgio Armani
• Boss by Hugo Boss
• California for Men by Max Factor
• Calyx by Prescriptives
• Cool Water for Men by Davidoff
• Eau de Courreges
• Eau de Guerlain
• Eau de Rochas
• Eau de Patou by Jean Patou
• Eau Fraiche by Christian Dior
• Eau Sauvage
• Guess by Georges Marciano
• Herrera for Men by Carolina Herrera
• Imperiale by Guerlain
• Lagerfeld Photo by Karl Lagerfeld
• Lauder for Men by Estee Lauder
• Listen for Men by Herb Alpert
• Liz Claiborne by Liz Claiborne
• Monsieur de Givenchy
• Nobile by Gucci
• O de Lancôme by Lancome
• Poison by Christian Dior
• Santa Fe for Women
• Tiffany for Men by Tiffany & Co
• Tuscany per Uomo by Aramis
• 4711

Intoxication by D'Orsay c1938

In 1938, the world was on the brink of World War II, with the lingering effects of the Great Depression still palpable. This was a period marked by a desire for escapism and glamour amidst uncertainties and hardships. The fashion and beauty industries often responded to such times by offering products that promised a temporary reprieve from reality, allowing people to indulge in fantasies and pleasures. "Intoxication" by Parfums D'Orsay was launched during this era, embodying this very spirit of escapism and allure. Notably, this was also a few years after the end of Prohibition in the United States, a time when society was embracing newfound freedoms and celebrating the return of legal alcohol consumption, which added to the zeitgeist of indulgence and revelry.

Parfums D'Orsay choosing the name "Intoxication" for their perfume speaks volumes about the emotional and sensory experience they aimed to evoke. The word "intoxication" suggests a state of being overwhelmed by powerful feelings or sensations, often associated with love and passion. In connection with love, "intoxication" conveys the idea of being so deeply enamored and consumed by another person that one feels a heady, almost dizzying sense of euphoria. This is an apt metaphor for a fragrance, which has the power to evoke strong emotional responses and create lasting impressions. In the context of the post-Prohibition era, the name also hints at a liberated, joyous embrace of pleasure and indulgence.

"Intoxication" is an appropriate name for a perfume because it encapsulates the transformative and alluring nature of fragrances. Perfume can create an almost magical effect, enhancing one's presence and evoking deep-seated emotions and memories. A scent that claims to intoxicate suggests that it can captivate and enthrall, much like the feeling of falling in love or being swept away by a powerful emotion. The end of Prohibition had seen a resurgence in nightlife and social gatherings, where people sought to enjoy themselves freely, and a perfume named "Intoxication" would perfectly complement this atmosphere of revelry.

In the context of perfumery, "Intoxication" relates to the concept of creating a compelling and irresistible fragrance. Perfumers aim to craft scents that can evoke strong, almost addictive responses. The name implies that the perfume has a potent and unforgettable quality, designed to leave a lasting impression on those who encounter it.

"Intoxication, the champagne fragrance that whispers 'Someone lovely has just passed by' wearing Intoxication".

Bridal Bouquet by Dana c1961

Bridal Bouquet by Dana: launched in 1961. Some of my sources state that it was first launched in 1935, but I cannot find any period advertisements to confirm this.

Antilope by Weil c1928

Launched in 1928 and trademarked in the United States in 1931, Antilope by Weil emerged during a transformative period in perfumery and fashion. The Weil brothers—Marcel, Jacques, and Alfred—had already established themselves as purveyors of luxury through their fur company, Les Fourrures Weil, founded in Paris in 1892. Known for their impeccable craftsmanship, the Weils catered to a clientele that demanded both refinement and innovation. Their expansion into perfumery in 1927 was a natural progression, as they sought to enhance the sensory experience of their furs with scents that would complement their warmth and texture.

The name Antilope was a fitting choice for this perfume, reflecting both the Weils’ use of antelope skin in their designs and the spirit of agility, grace, and untamed beauty embodied by the animal itself. The word “Antilope” is derived from the French spelling of "antelope," pronounced "ahn-tee-LOHP". It evokes imagery of swift movement across vast landscapes, the soft sleekness of a rare hide, and the inherent elegance of nature. In a fragrance, this name suggests a composition that is fluid yet strong, sophisticated yet free-spirited—qualities that resonated deeply with the modern woman of the late 1920s.

The perfume’s launch coincided with the final years of the Roaring Twenties, an era marked by cultural dynamism, artistic exploration, and a shift toward modernism. Women were embracing newfound freedoms, shedding restrictive corsets in favor of sleek silhouettes, and adopting a more confident, independent persona. Fashion was dominated by designers such as Coco Chanel and Jean Patou, who championed fluid lines and effortless sophistication. Perfume trends followed suit, moving toward more complex, refined compositions. Aldehydic fragrances—such as the groundbreaking Chanel No. 5 (1921)—had already redefined the olfactory landscape, and Antilope followed in this tradition while carving out its own distinctive identity.

Platine by Dana c1938

Platine by Dana: launched in 1938 in France and in USA by 1939.

The name means "platinum" and the bottles had silvery platinum foil flakes floating inside to resemble platinum. The fragrance was also released in Spanish-speaking countries as Platino.

Xanadu by Faberge c1969

Xanadu, introduced in 1969 as a groundbreaking division of Fabergé, revolutionized the realm of skincare, toiletries, and cosmetics. The brainchild of Fabergé, Xanadu promised a fresh approach to personal care for both men and women. Described in The Magazine of Wall Street and Business Analyst in 1968, Xanadu was anticipated to bring forth a new era in beauty products, offering an innovative blend of luxury and efficacy. With its launch, Xanadu aimed to redefine beauty standards and set new benchmarks in the industry.

The Magazine of Wall Street and Business Analyst, 1968:

"Early in 1969, Faberge will introduce Xanadu, a new concept in skin creams, toiletries and cosmetics for both sexes."

Tailspin by Lucien Lelong c1940

Tailspin by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1940. Created by Jean Carles. This perfume was marketed in France as Passionnement.

Tuvara by Tuvache c1948

Tuvara by Tuvache: launched in 1948. The name Tuvara was trademarked in 1965 by Tuvache. The name Tuvara comes from a species of the cassia plant and was also the name of Mme. Tuvache's daughter.

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong c1934

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong: launched in 1934. The name comes from the warm wind that blows off the Sahara.

Padisha by Weil c1922

Padisha by Weil: launched in 1922, as a gift to special clients. It was later relaunched  for public sale in 1947.

Embrujo de Sevilla by Myrurgia c1933

"Embrujo de Sevilla," launched in 1933 by Myrurgia, emerged during the Great Depression, a period marked by economic hardship and a yearning for escapism. The early 1930s were characterized by global financial instability, widespread unemployment, and social unrest. During these challenging times, luxuries like perfume offered a form of affordable indulgence and a way to momentarily transcend the daily struggles. The allure of Seville, a city steeped in rich history and romance, provided the perfect backdrop for such a product, promising a sensory escape to a more exotic and enchanting world.

Seville, the capital of Andalusia in southern Spain, is renowned for its vibrant cultural heritage, stunning architecture, and lush gardens. The city's history is a tapestry woven with influences from various civilizations, including the Romans, Moors, and Christians. Landmarks like the majestic Seville Cathedral, the Giralda tower, and the Alcázar palace with its beautiful Mudejar architecture, are emblematic of Seville's storied past. The city is also famous for its passionate flamenco music and dance, vibrant festivals like Feria de Abril, and the intoxicating aroma of orange blossoms from its many gardens.

Films of the era, such as "Blood and Sand" (1922) and its remake in 1941, showcased the romantic and exotic allure of Spain, with themes of passionate love, bullfighting, and the picturesque Spanish landscapes. These films played into the public's fascination with romanticized views of Spanish culture, making the setting of Seville an appealing and evocative choice for a perfume.

Myrurgia's choice of the name "Embrujo de Sevilla," which translates to "The Spell of Seville" in Spanish, cleverly captures the essence of this captivating city. The word "embrujo" conveys enchantment, magic, and allure, evoking a sense of mystery and seduction. This makes "Embrujo de Sevilla" an excellent name for a perfume, as it promises an enchanting and transformative experience for the wearer.

Crescendo by Lanvin c1958

Launched in 1958, Crescendo by Lanvin entered the fragrance market during a period of post-war optimism and burgeoning modernity. The 1950s were characterized by a blend of traditional elegance and emerging innovation in the perfume industry. Iconic fragrances like Dior's Miss Dior (1947) and Chanel No. 5 (1921, but continuously popular) were celebrated for their classic compositions, while new trends began to favor more complex and adventurous scents. The floral oriental classification of Crescendo placed it among the sophisticated and richly layered perfumes that appealed to the era's evolving tastes.

Lanvin's choice of the name "Crescendo" is both evocative and symbolic. The word "crescendo," derived from Italian, refers to a gradual increase in volume or intensity in music. In the context of perfume, it suggests a fragrance that unfolds and intensifies over time, revealing its complexity in layers. This concept would resonate deeply with women in the late 1950s, who were increasingly embracing modernity, sophistication, and depth in their personal style and life choices.

Women of the time would likely respond to Crescendo with enthusiasm and appreciation for its nuanced composition and evocative name. The word "Crescendo" conjures images of rising emotions, building intensity, and a harmonious blend of notes, much like a musical composition. It evokes a sense of anticipation and excitement, mirroring the progressive and optimistic spirit of the era. The imagery associated with Crescendo would be one of elegance, grace, and a powerful, yet controlled, allure.

Interpreted in relation to perfume, "Crescendo" implies a scent experience that starts subtly and grows more pronounced and captivating as it develops on the skin. It suggests a dynamic fragrance journey, where each layer of notes builds upon the previous one to create a symphony of aromas. For women in 1958, wearing Crescendo would be akin to embarking on an olfactory journey that mirrors their own life's crescendo—full of growth, complexity, and beauty.

The name also hints at a sense of drama and performance, aligning perfectly with the cultural backdrop of the time, where cinema, theater, and music were flourishing. Crescendo by Lanvin, therefore, not only offered a luxurious and sophisticated fragrance but also encapsulated the excitement and dynamic changes of the era, making it a memorable and fitting choice for the modern woman of the late 1950s.