Wednesday, February 19, 2020

Miracle by Lentheric c1924

Miracle by Lentheric was launched in 1924 and named after the Max Reinhardt play starring actress Diana Manners.



 Lentheric issued it's perfume alongside the U.S. premiere of the elaborate pantomime 'The Miracle', which opened at the Century Theatre in New York City on January 15, 1924. The back of the program had a full page advertisement for the perfume. The program was by Karl Vollmoeller, the score by Englebert Humperdinck, and the design by Norman Bel Geddes. Among the many illustrations, are two full-page ink and watercolor renderings of costumes by Norman Bel Geddes.




Miracle was available in the following forms:
  • Parfum (also known as extract/extrait)
  • Bouquet Miracle (a double strength eau de cologne)
  • Eau de Cologne
  • Dusting Powder
  • Powder Sachet
  • Creme Bouquet (cream sachet)
  • Soap
  • Talc
  • Bath Salts
  • Brilliantine
  • Face powder and compacts

1925 ad


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral leather chypre fragrance for women. Consists of a mixed bouquet of flowers and herbs, just slightly spiced with carnation and lilies, on a leathery chypre base.
  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, lilac, coriander, jasmine, rose geranium, hyssop, verbena
  • Middle notes: carnation, lily, camphor, iris, lavender, rosemary, thyme, tarragon, sage, oregano, basil.
  • Base notes: carrot seed, orris, pine, sandalwood, Moroccan cedar, patchouli, civet, vanilla, leather, oakmoss

I just tested a small amount on my skin from a sealed vintage perfume nip that is over 60 years old. The perfume at first smells mossy and very aldehydic with a dominant bergamot, verbena and lemon blend. Then a bouquet garni or Herbes de Provence of herbal notes start breaking through: rosemary, coriander, tarragon, thyme, basil, sage, oregano and lavender. I do smell a medicinal camphor note in here too, probably from the herbs. A lovely woody base of cedar, pine and sandalwood punctuated by patchouli and oakmoss is left in the drydown.

On paper, the perfume is extremely mossy and citric, but the herbal notes are not as apparent and would need the warmth of the skin to bring them into fruition. The woodsy notes of pine and cedar are strong.


Bottles:


Black Crystal Floating Gold Parfum Flacon:

Presented in a unique black crystal bottle w/ real gold dust in the glass, called "floating gold". Deluxe flacon was made by Baccarat, designed by Georges Dumoulin, the smaller bottles were made by Depinoix. Black bakelite stopper cover. Base acid stamped Made in France.

Bottle came in three sizes:

  • 5 7/8" tall
  • 4 1/2" tall
  • 3 1/8" tall

Hearst's, 1929:
"Inevitably they return with a zealously guarded bottle of this most exquisite perfume of Guillaume Lentheric — a bottle in onyx and sprayed gold, full of tiny drops — within each drop, forever trapped, the quick sweet scents of fragile living flowers."








Baccarat/Val St Lambert - Blue Edged Parfum Flacon:

Another early bottle used for Miracle, circa 1920s, square bottle in cased blue and clear crystal, with stopper, metal cover and label. Stenciled 'Val St. Lambert'. Bottle stands 3 1/2". This bottle was also made by Baccarat, and can be found with green cased glass used for perfume Ambre Mousse (perfume itself was originally launched in 1912). This is Baccarat model number 298 created in 1916.

Another early bottle for Miracle, circa 1920s, square bottle in cased blue and clear crystal, with stopper, metal cover and label. Stenciled 'Val St. Lambert'. Ht. 3 1/2". This bottle was also made by Baccarat, and can be found with green cased glass used for the 1912 Lentheric perfume 'Ambre Mousse'.


Frosted Grecian Capital Parfum Flacon:

Starting in 1936, Miracle was presented in a frosted and clear glass bottle made by Verreries Brosse, it's design features scrolling motifs on each side. The bottle was designed by Frank McIntosh and received a U.S. patent May 27, 1936. This bottle replaced the very expensive to manufacture black "floating gold" Baccarat/Depinoix bottle.

This bottle came in several sizes.
  • Mini perfume -1/8 oz = 1-5/16" tall x 1-9/16" wide.
  • Half ounce = 2" tall x 2-1/2" wide.
  • One ounce =2-5/8" tall and 3-1/2" wide 
  • Two ounce -
  • Four ounce = 3 1/4" tall by 4 1/4" wide.
  • Eight ounce = 4" tall x 5 1/4" wide.

Travel, 1936:
"A flacon of arresting beauty — replica in crystal of the capital of a Grecian column, with classic lines and graceful scrolls."








Czech Controlled Bubble Parfum Flacons:


Also presented in a controlled bubble glass bottle, made in Czechoslovakia in 1935. This bottle can be found in different colors for different perfumes by Lentheric, cerulean blue for Miracle, softened rose for Lotus D'Or, green for Le Pirate, green for Au Fil de L'Eau, green for Foret Vierge, mirror clear for Asphodele, champagne for Tweed, and Numero Douze in amber. Bottle stands 4" tall.


Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1935:
"LENTHERIC'S Bubble Bottle comes in blue, clear, rose, amber or green. The glass is full of tiny bubbles and the whole bottle looks like one large bubble itself. Numero Douze, Miracle, Asphodele, and Le Pirate are the perfumes bottled in this way."









Orrefors Crystal Parfum Flacons:

In 1936, a trio of crystal bottles was introduced manufactured by Orrefors to hold Tweed, Gardenia de Tahiti and Miracle. Each bottle was etched with a different design on the front and was topped by a frosted glass spire like stopper. The vaulted top box was covered in silver and blue paper. The bottles are often unmarked for the Orrefors name and simply had hang tags which were usually lost over time, so most people are unaware that these were used by Lentheric.



Other bottles:



Fate of the Fragrance:


Miracle was sold in other, less fancier bottles until the end of the 1960s, then it was discontinued, date unknown.

CLICK HERE TO FIND MIRACLE BY LENTHERIC




From a 1929 Lentheric catalog, Miracle was available in the following, with original prices:



Extract (boxed):
  • No. 2360 - 1/2 oz - $4.00
  • No. 1360 - 1 oz - $7.00
  • No. 360 - 2 oz - $12.50
  • No. 361 - 4 oz - $25.00
  • No. 362 - 8 oz $45.00

Toilet Water:
  • No. 370 - 4 oz - $6.00
  • No. 371 - 8 oz - $10.00
  • No. 372 - 16 oz - $18.00

Double Compact (with extra refill):
  • No. 100 - $2.50
  • Rouge: Pour Blonde, Medium, Pour Brune
  • Powder: Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche


Single Compact (with extra refill):
  • No. 101 - $1.00
  • Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche


Powder Refill (with puff for No. 101 and 100):
  • No. 103 - $0.50
  • Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche


Face Powder (with puff):
  • No. 105 - $1.00
  • Naturelle No. 1
  • Naturelle No. 2
  • Naturelle No. 3
  • Rachel No. 1
  • Rachel No. 2
  • Summer Tan
  • Ocre
  • Ocre Rose
  • Blanche

Talcum Powder
  • No. 110 - 4 1/2 oz - $1.00
  • Summer Tan
  • White

Dusting Powder (with puff)
  • No. 115 - $2.00

Bath Salts
  • No. 120 - small - $1.50
  • No. 121 - large - $2.50

Soaps (3 cakes to a box):
  • No. 130 - per cake - $1.00

Brilliantine:
  • No. 135 - Liquid - $1.50
  • No. 136 - Crystallized - $2.50

Sachet:
  • No. 140 - 1 oz - $2.00 

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