Platine by Dana c1938

Platine by Dana: launched in 1938 in France and in USA by 1939.

The name means "platinum" and the bottles had silvery platinum foil flakes floating inside to resemble platinum. The fragrance was also released in Spanish-speaking countries as Platino.

Lutece by Houbigant c1984

Lutece by Houbigant: launched in 1984. Apparently, "Lutece" was the old name for the city of Paris.

Memoire Cherie by Elizabeth Arden c1957

Memoire Cherie by Elizabeth Arden: launched in 1956. The Grecian goddess of memory is depicted on the packages.

J'ai Ose by Guy Laroche c1977

J'ai Ose by Guy Laroche: launched in 1977.  Created by Max Gavarry of IFF.

J'ai Ose, name means "I Dare" in French, was created by the designer Guy Laroche, promoted and marketed by the cosmetic company, Lancome, and backed by its parent, the giant French hair product and cosmetic multi-national, L'Oreal.

Side Glance by Parfums Anjou c1952

Launched in 1952, Side Glance by Parfums Anjou was a fragrance that captured the spirit of the early 1950s—a time when elegance, sophistication, and femininity were at their peak. The name Side Glance evokes a sense of mystery, allure, and subtlety, painting a picture of a woman who is both captivating and elusive, someone who draws attention without fully revealing herself. The term "side glance" refers to the subtle, almost secretive look that someone gives when they want to convey an emotion or thought without direct confrontation. It suggests a fleeting moment of intrigue, a glance that sparks curiosity, but doesn’t fully expose the inner depths of the person. This sense of controlled seduction and quiet confidence was perfectly aligned with the societal and fashion trends of the time, making Side Glance an intriguing choice for a fragrance name.

The 1950s was a decade marked by a return to femininity after the hardships of World War II. Following the austerity of wartime, the fashion world experienced a resurgence of glamour and opulence, thanks largely to designers like Christian Dior and his iconic "New Look." Women’s fashion became synonymous with curvaceous silhouettes, full skirts, narrow waists, and a focus on romantic, elegant dressing. This period saw the rise of femininity as a symbol of power and grace, and Side Glance fits seamlessly into this atmosphere. The fragrance was likely intended for women who were self-assured, poised, and effortlessly chic—those who knew the power of a sideways glance to stir curiosity and attraction without saying a word.

The 1950s also ushered in an era of glamour and escapism in film, with actresses like Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, and Marilyn Monroe becoming iconic figures who epitomized both beauty and sophistication. The name Side Glance evokes the mystery and allure these actresses exuded—quiet yet unmistakable confidence that could captivate an entire room without being overly assertive. The idea of a "side glance" calls to mind these glamorous women, who were admired not just for their beauty but for their ability to convey emotions and thoughts with a simple look. Side Glance by Parfums Anjou was thus perfectly poised to become a fragrance that captured this essence of refined allure.

Devastating by Anjou c1943

Launched in 1943, Devastating by Anjou is a fragrance that seems almost as complex and charged as the era it was created in. The name itself, "Devastating," evokes a sense of overwhelming power, a force capable of altering the course of events. This word conveys the idea of something that destroys or dramatically transforms, leaving a lasting impact. To modern ears, the word may imply destruction or calamity, but during the turmoil of World War II, it would have taken on additional layers of meaning. To women in the early 1940s, "Devastating" would have carried both a sense of profound vulnerability and incredible strength—perhaps symbolizing the havoc wrought by the war, but also the emotional and physical resilience required to navigate such difficult times.

The Second World War, which raged from 1939 to 1945, was a period marked by both devastation and transformation. Fashion and trends during this time were heavily influenced by the war, with many countries rationing resources and adjusting to wartime austerity. Women's clothing became more practical, with shorter hemlines and simpler, more utilitarian designs. Yet despite the hardships, there was an undeniable undercurrent of defiance, a desire for elegance and escape, albeit one that was restrained. Women looked for ways to assert their femininity and beauty, even as the world around them seemed to crumble. Devastating fits squarely into this context—a perfume that suggests an inner power, the strength to endure through hardship, and the ability to rise above it all, much like the women of the time.

In the context of the fragrance itself, Devastating is classified as a spicy floral chypre, a genre that was becoming increasingly popular in the 1940s. Chypre perfumes are known for their complex, deep compositions that often blend floral notes with mossy, woody, and earthy elements, and Devastating is no exception. The spicy floral heart suggests a warmth and intensity, a sensuality that, like the name implies, is both bold and alluring. Chypres were already established in the fragrance world, made famous by classics like Chypre by Coty (1917) and Miss Dior (1947), but Devastating added a certain edge—its dark, fiery name and spicy composition perhaps hinting at the emotional chaos of the time. This fragrance would have stood out against more delicate, floral offerings, capturing the mood of a world at war while also tapping into the yearning for something more.

 

Tianne by Nettie Rosenstein c1948

Tianne by Nettie Rosenstein: launched in 1948.

Odalisque by Nettie Rosenstein c1946

Odalisque by Nettie Rosenstein: launched in 1946.

Flair by Yardley c1952

Flair by Yardley: launched in 1952. First created by Yardley, then traded to Lentheric in 1964. Since 1999, it has been distributed by Mayfair Perfumes.

Nostalgia by Germaine Monteil c1941

Nostalgia by Germaine Monteil, launched in 1941, is a fragrance steeped in emotional depth and reflection, embodying the essence of its name. The word Nostalgia, derived from the Greek nostos (meaning "return home") and algia (meaning "pain"), refers to a wistful longing for the past, evoking emotions of yearning and sentimentality. Choosing the name Nostalgia for a perfume in the early 1940s was not only poignant but deeply evocative, as the world was in the grip of World War II—a time when thoughts of the past and a desire for peace and stability were at the forefront of people’s minds. The name taps into the universal human experience of memory, of longing for a simpler, happier time, and of reflecting on the fleeting moments that bring comfort during uncertainty.

In scent, Nostalgia would naturally be interpreted as a fragrance that evokes both warmth and melancholy, creating a bridge between the past and the present. The opening notes of powdery aldehydes, known for their soft, clean, and slightly soapy quality, are often associated with the elegance of classic perfumes. These aldehydes lend a sense of timelessness and sophistication, evoking the image of a woman dressed in refined, vintage elegance. The bright citrus notes that accompany the aldehydes provide an immediate freshness, a reminder of brighter days, perhaps symbolizing hope amidst the dark realities of the war.

As the scent unfolds, the heart reveals a floral bouquet dominated by lilac, jasmine, and rose. These flowers, with their soft, romantic qualities, add an air of femininity and grace. Lilac, with its nostalgic connotations of spring and renewal, pairs beautifully with the timeless appeal of rose and the sultry depth of jasmine, creating an emotional pull. The floral notes in Nostalgia speak to a longing for love, beauty, and the familiar comforts of home, things that would have been acutely missed by women living through the hardships and separations of the war years.

The base notes—warm, rich, mossy, and woodsy—ground the fragrance in a comforting earthiness. Oakmoss and sandalwood, staples of the chypre fragrance family, provide a sense of depth and solidity, almost like an anchor to the past. The richness of these base notes mirrors the complexity of memory, the way in which emotions linger and deepen over time. In this way, Nostalgia captures not just the fleeting beauty of floral notes but also the enduring power of memory, with its warmth and quiet strength.

Flora Danica by Royal Copenhagen c1980

Flora Danica by Royal Copenhagen, a division of Swank, is a discontinued perfume still popular with its original users. This elusive fragrance is very hard to find today and commands high prices when offered for sale. The perfume was introduced in 1980 and discontinued around 1986.

Noa Noa by Helena Rubinstein c1953

Noa Noa by Helena Rubinstein was launched in 1953. Inspired by "Presentation de l'Ancien culte mahorie: La clef de Noa-Noa," by Paul Gauguin. Noa Noa means "'fragrance" — the sweet smell of homemade coconut oil perfumed with gardenia petals, called monoi, in which his lover, Teha'amana, like all Tahitian girls used to rub into their hair and body. 

The New Yorker, 1954:

"Helena Rubinstein announces NOA NOA (Tahitian superlative for 'fragrant'). Madame Rubinstein sought inspiration for new NOA NOA perfume in the exotic paradise of Tahiti."