Madame Rochas by Rochas c1960

In 1960, when Madame Rochas was launched, the world was experiencing a cultural shift marked by a blend of traditional elegance and modern sophistication. It was a time of post-war recovery and burgeoning prosperity, where women's roles were evolving, and the concept of femininity was being redefined. The 1960s represented a period of glamour, refinement, and a growing interest in luxury and beauty products.

Parfums Rochas chose the name "Madame Rochas" for its new perfume as a reflection of the idealized woman of that era. "Madame" connotes a sense of sophistication, maturity, and authority, suggesting a woman who is confident, elegant, and cultured. This choice of name aligns perfectly with the image Rochas sought to evoke — that of a refined, cosmopolitan woman who embodies grace and charm.

"Madame Rochas" would have been particularly appealing to women who identified with or aspired to embody such qualities. It appealed not only to those in metropolitan areas but also to women in smaller towns, reflecting a broader demographic reach beyond the elite circles typically associated with high fashion and luxury goods. The perfume was positioned as an elegant yet accessible option, offering a touch of luxury that was attainable to a wider audience.

What are Woody Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords.

Woody:

Woody fragrances are characterized by scents that evoke the essence of nature, drawing inspiration from aromatic woods and forest elements. These fragrances are warm, grounding, and rich, often transporting the wearer to the heart of a forest or a rustic woodland retreat. The core of woody fragrances is typically built on the scents of various woods, such as sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, and oud (aloes), which lend depth, warmth, and complexity. These fragrances can range from dry, crisp, and refreshing to warm, smoky, and resinous, with each wood note contributing a unique character that defines the fragrance.

Sandalwood has a soft, creamy, and slightly sweet aroma that is both comforting and grounding. It’s warm, smooth, and often described as having a slightly milky undertone. As you inhale it, you may detect a faintly woody scent that is reminiscent of freshly carved wood, but it’s softened by its creamy, almost velvety character. This scent is rich, but not overpowering, and it has a calming, meditative quality that makes it highly prized in both perfumery and spiritual practices. Sandalwood has an enduring, almost mystical presence, lingering in the background with its soft, balsamic warmth.

Envol by Ted Lapidus c1980

Envol by Ted Lapidus: launched in 1980, in USA by 1981. Envol means "flight" in French. "I gave it that light name, spacious and airy, because it is the perfume of space, of night and time,” Ted Lapidus.

Alix by Gres c1981

Launched in 1981 and introduced to the U.S. market by 1982, Alix by Grès was a fragrance steeped in the legacy of haute couture. The perfume bottle itself varied in its branding, sometimes marked as "Alix Grès", while other times it bore only the name "Grès." This variation speaks to the dual identity of the house—rooted in its founder’s original design vision while evolving with the times.

The name "Alix" holds deep personal significance. It was the name under which Madame Grès—born Germaine Émilie Krebs—first gained prominence as a couturière. Before founding her iconic house of Grès, she worked under the label "Alix", crafting designs that would define her sculptural approach to fabric and drapery. Choosing to name the perfume "Alix" was a tribute to her origins, a way of anchoring the fragrance in her personal history and design philosophy.

Etymologically, "Alix" is derived from Old French and Germanic origins, meaning "noble" or "of noble kind." It is pronounced "Ah-leeks" in French, with a fluid, refined elegance. The name evokes imagery of classical grace, strength, and understated luxury. It carries a poetic softness, yet it also suggests quiet confidence and sophistication—qualities that mirror the spirit of Madame Grès herself.

Mystere de Rochas c1978

Mystere de Rochas: launched in 1978. Created by Nicolas Mamounas of IFF who used nearly 200 ingredients to complete the formula.

Odalisque by Nettie Rosenstein c1946

Odalisque by Nettie Rosenstein: launched in 1946.

Lace by Yardley c1982

Lace by Yardley: launched in 1982. Created by Dominique Ropion.

Nettie Rosenstein Perfumes

Nettie Rosenstein of New York City.

Ann Haviland Perfumes

Ann Haviland of Haviland Laboratories. Established by Ann Haviland in 1909 at West 57th Street in. Ann Haviland reportedly learned the art of perfumery in far off Smyrna, Turkey, where she lived as a girl.

Torrente by Parfums Torrente c1977

Torrente by Parfums Torrente: launched in 1977, in USA in 1978.

 

Fragonard Dupes of Popular Perfumes

For many years, both the French perfume companies Molinard and Fragonard created their own versions of popular perfumes.

What are Leather or Animalic Fragrances?

Fragrances can be classified by certain olfactive families, or themes, or accords. In this guide I will briefly discuss the various themes.

Leather/Animal: 

Leather/Animal Fragrances: Leather and animalic fragrances are known for their bold, powerful, and sometimes animalistic qualities. These fragrances often evoke an intense sense of warmth, richness, and raw sensuality. The combination of leather-like notes and animalic elements creates a distinct and lasting impression. They can be dense and smoky, with a lingering depth that is both primal and refined. Historically, leather and animal notes have been considered aphrodisiacs, capturing the raw, untamed essence of nature. Today, many of the animalic scents are synthetically reproduced to provide a more consistent and ethically sourced alternative to their natural counterparts, but the impact remains the same: deep, sultry, and unforgettable.

Honey: When you inhale the scent of honey, it immediately feels warm, sweet, and smooth. The note is rich, with a syrupy thickness that carries a slight floral sweetness, evoking the imagery of golden nectar dripping from a hive. Honey’s sweetness is not cloying; it is rounded and deep, with a natural waxiness that feels almost creamy, offering a sense of warmth and indulgence. It’s a note that evokes comfort and luxury, often used to soften and add complexity to leather and animalic fragrances. The soft, sticky sweetness lingers like a memory, creating a deeply sensual, inviting aura.

Belle de Nuit by Fragonard c1947

Belle de Nuit was launched in 1947 by Fragonard. It was named after a flower of great beauty that only opens its petals at night - not to the sun - but to the moon.