Madame Rochas by Rochas c1960

In 1960, when Madame Rochas was launched, the world was experiencing a cultural shift marked by a blend of traditional elegance and modern sophistication. It was a time of post-war recovery and burgeoning prosperity, where women's roles were evolving, and the concept of femininity was being redefined. The 1960s represented a period of glamour, refinement, and a growing interest in luxury and beauty products.

Parfums Rochas chose the name "Madame Rochas" for its new perfume as a reflection of the idealized woman of that era. "Madame" connotes a sense of sophistication, maturity, and authority, suggesting a woman who is confident, elegant, and cultured. This choice of name aligns perfectly with the image Rochas sought to evoke — that of a refined, cosmopolitan woman who embodies grace and charm.

"Madame Rochas" would have been particularly appealing to women who identified with or aspired to embody such qualities. It appealed not only to those in metropolitan areas but also to women in smaller towns, reflecting a broader demographic reach beyond the elite circles typically associated with high fashion and luxury goods. The perfume was positioned as an elegant yet accessible option, offering a touch of luxury that was attainable to a wider audience.

The name "Madame Rochas" evokes images of sophistication, Parisian chic, and a certain timeless elegance. It suggests a woman of taste, someone who values quality and refinement in every aspect of her life. The perfume itself, created by Guy Robert, embodied these qualities through its composition — blending floral notes with hints of citrus and warm undertones, creating a fragrance that is both classic and modern, sophisticated yet approachable.

When questioned by the Women's News Service in 1967 about the decision to launch Madame Rochas following the success of Femme, Howard Zagor, president of Parfums Marcel Rochas, provided a revealing perspective: "Perfumes have definite personalities. We started with a perfume which was definitely French, cosmopolitan in its appeal. For less sophisticated women and smaller towns, Femme [de Rochas] wasn't always right. So we created Madame Rochas, which is still an elegant perfume but has a broader appeal to the average person." Zagor's response underscored the nuanced approach to fragrance marketing during that era. Femme, celebrated for its French sophistication, may have been perceived as too exclusive for all tastes and regions. In contrast, Madame Rochas was crafted to maintain elegance while catering to a wider audience, ensuring it resonated with a broader spectrum of women seeking accessible luxury and timeless allure.

Overall, "Madame Rochas" encapsulated the spirit of its time, appealing to women who sought to express their femininity with grace and style. It aimed to complement and enhance the natural allure of its wearer, embodying the essence of French luxury and sophistication in a bottle.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does the original smell like? Madame Rochas by Rochas is classified as a soft yet rich floral-aldehyde fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: hydroxycitronellal, aldehydes, Dutch narcissus, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, Japanese honeysuckle, Moroccan neroli, Tunisian orange blossom
• Middle notes: Indian carnation, eugenol, Grasse jasmine absolute, "Jasmine Flower" (Synarome), Anatolian rose absolute, Bulgarian rose attar, phenylacetaldehyde glyceryl acetal, Mexican tuberose, Alpine lily-of-the-valley, hexyl cinnamic aldehyde, Florentine iris, Madagascan ylang-ylang, Tuscan violet, methyl ionone, beeswax, Provencal lilac
• Base notes: Arabian frankincense, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, Tibetan musk, Lebanese cedar, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Bourbon vanilla, vanillin, Venezuelan tonka bean 

Guy Robert's composition of Madame Rochas in 1960 was a masterpiece of perfumery, crafted with meticulous attention to detail using nearly two hundred ingredients. One of the key bases he utilized was "Jasmine Flower," originally formulated in 1947 by Hubert Fraysse at Synarome, renowned for its exquisite jasmine accord complemented by hints of orange blossom. This base, also employed in Caleche by Hermes, provided a lush foundation for Madame Rochas, enriching its floral profile with a delicate yet captivating aroma.

 

Scent Profile:

Madame Rochas opens with an uplifting, almost dizzying burst of freshness. The top notes introduce the fragrance with a sparkle that’s both clean and luminous. The aldehydes shine brightly, creating a soapy, so-refreshing feeling—like the purest, most delicate soap that cleanses with elegance. Hydroxycitronellal brings a subtle floral sweetness, reminiscent of freshly cut grass with a soft citrus undertone, adding an organic sense of freshness that feels both natural and slightly synthetic, amplifying the scent’s clarity. Calabrian bergamot infuses this opening with a delicate bitterness, bright yet not overpowering, its vibrant citrus quality enhanced by the sun-soaked Italian landscape. The Sicilian lemon adds to this sharpness, with a zesty, tangy lift that invigorates the senses.

Then, a gentle but noticeable sweetness arises as Japanese honeysuckle curls its way through the composition, creating a nectar-like feel that feels both comforting and slightly intoxicating. The Moroccan neroli, with its clean, slightly bitter, and floral scent, delicately wraps the fragrance in a soft, citrus-floral embrace, while the Tunisian orange blossom deepens the floral facet with its rich, warm, and honeyed sweetness. Together, these bright, fresh notes create an opening that feels light, clean, and sophisticated, but still deeply floral, almost like stepping into a sunny Mediterranean garden.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart opens with a delicate richness, where the flowers truly bloom. The Indian carnation is at the forefront, offering spicy warmth, with a nuanced clove-like warmth from eugenol, a natural component of the flower. It adds an interesting contrast to the softness of the aldehydes, bringing depth and complexity. Grasse jasmine absolute emerges, its heady, opulent aroma exuding both sweetness and a subtle animalic undertone. It’s the epitome of luxury, evoking the sun-drenched fields of Grasse, where jasmine is known for its rich, velvety scent, which is complemented by "Jasmine Flower" (Synarome)—a synthetic jasmine note that amplifies the natural floral nuances, adding a broader, more ethereal dimension.

The Anatolian rose absolute brings a slightly peppery, green-tinged floral note, distinct from the more typical rosy accords. Bulgarian rose attar, on the other hand, brings a deeper, more damask-like richness, with a slightly honeyed, powdery quality, evoking the romantic, lush blooms of Bulgarian gardens. Phenylacetaldehyde glyceryl acetal contributes a slightly honeyed, floral undertone, enhancing the rose's natural warmth. Mexican tuberose adds a creamy, lush, and slightly waxy richness to the heart, with an almost intoxicating floral note that feels like a bouquet of white flowers. Alpine lily-of-the-valley is lighter, with its fresh, dewy, slightly sweet scent, adding a contrast of airiness against the heavier, opulent flowers. 

Hexyl cinnamic aldehyde, with its soft, honeyed, and slightly floral warmth, adds another layer of sweetness while keeping the composition refined and sophisticated. Florentine iris, with its elegant, powdery, and slightly woody undertones, grounds the fragrance with its dry, elegant finish. Madagascar ylang-ylang adds a lush, tropical floral sweetness that feels almost exotic, while Tuscan violet brings a delicate, soft powdery aspect, adding another layer of complexity to the floral heart. Methyl ionone, with its soft, woody, and slightly violet-like nuances, enhances the depth of these flowers while contributing to the fragrance's smooth, elegant texture. Beeswax brings a warm, rich honeyed sweetness, grounding the florals and adding a touch of natural warmth. Provencal lilac contributes a gentle, powdery, and slightly green floral note, further deepening the heart with a soft, sweet intensity.

As Madame Rochas dries down, the base notes unfold, beginning with the mystical, resinous depth of Arabian frankincense. The slightly smoky, balsamic scent of this ingredient adds a sacred, spiritual aura to the fragrance, grounded by the ambergris—an elusive, animalic, oceanic note with a deep, salty richness. Ambergris, derived from the ocean, brings an earthy warmth that balances the lightness of the floral notes, creating a sense of depth and mystery. The Mysore sandalwood adds a creamy, warm, and woody foundation, enveloping the fragrance in a rich, smooth texture that contrasts with the sharpness of the florals.The Haitian vetiver adds an earthy, smoky, and green richness, evoking a dry, sunlit earth, with a soft, woody feel that complements the fragrance’s overall depth. Tibetan musk contributes an animalic, sensual undertone, adding complexity to the base without overwhelming the florals. 

Lebanese cedar provides a crisp, dry woodiness that ties the base together, enhancing the earthy depth and creating a natural, grounded finish. Yugoslavian oakmoss, an ingredient known for its slightly damp, mossy, and woody facets, adds an earthy richness, creating a moist, forest-like feeling that deepens the composition. Bourbon vanilla introduces a creamy sweetness, warm and comforting, adding a gourmand touch to the base while balancing the earthier notes. Vanillin, a synthetic compound, amplifies the sweetness of the vanilla, giving it a smooth, creamy presence that enhances the warmth of the fragrance. Venezuelan tonka bean contributes a sweet, warm, and slightly nutty richness, evoking the scent of marzipan and adding a final layer of depth to the perfume’s base.

Each ingredient in Madame Rochas plays a specific role, with the synthetics blending seamlessly into the composition to amplify the natural elements. The aldehydes, while synthetic, heighten the clean and sparkling nature of the florals, while the floral notes—ranging from fresh and airy to deep and spicy—create a complex, evolving scent that evolves on the skin. Together, these ingredients form a fragrance that is both soft and rich, modern and timeless, with an unmistakable aura of elegance and sophistication.

Bottles:

The first edition bottle of Madame Rochas is a striking homage to 18th-century elegance, inspired by a Baccarat cut crystal design that caught Helene Rochas' eye in a Parisian antique shop. This octagonal shape, meticulously replicated, exudes a sense of timeless sophistication and luxury. The final design, masterfully executed by Pierre Dinand, retained the essence of its antique inspiration while adapting to modern manufacturing techniques. Produced by Pochet et du Courval with plastic elements crafted by Augros, these bottles featured a distinctive gold-tone metal cap and an ornate beaded metal collar, elements that added to its opulent appeal.

Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, these bottles remained icons of perfume packaging, revered for their classic yet contemporary aesthetic. The labels, adorned with the elegant copperplate script of "Madame Rochas," beautifully combined initialed capitals with lowercase letters, echoing a balance of refinement and approachability that mirrored the fragrance itself. This meticulous attention to detail in both design and presentation ensured that Madame Rochas not only captured the essence of its historical inspiration but also stood out as a symbol of enduring elegance in the world of perfumery.

Eau de Cologne & Parfum de Toilette:

Parfums Marcel Rochas introduced the Parfum de Toilette as a refined alternative between traditional perfume and cologne, filling a niche that offered a lighter yet longer-lasting fragrance experience. This innovation allowed wearers to indulge more lightly without compromising on the luxurious essence of the scent. It provided a balance where one could be elegantly lavish yet subtly sophisticated.

During the period spanning the early 1960s to the late 1970s, the packaging of Eau de Cologne and Parfum de Toilette bottles reflected a distinct aesthetic. Simple cylindrical bottles featured a screen-printed tapestry brocade pattern on the glass, adorned with gold plastic caps that added a touch of opulence. The design extended to accessories such as the purse atomizer, which replicated the tapestry motif on its metal cylinder, and the cologne atomizer, distinguished by a beige plasticized finish embellished with a sculptured cartouche from the tapestry design. Consistent with the theme, the packaging boxes featured an orangey-gold brocade pattern against a white background, harmonizing with the elegance and sophistication synonymous with the Rochas brand. These details not only enhanced the visual appeal but also underscored the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail that defined Marcel Rochas' approach to perfume presentation during that era.

The vintage (original) formula was available in the following:

• Parfum (perfume) - 1960s-1980s
• Eau de Cologne - 1960s-1980s
• Parfum de Toilette - 1970s-1980s
• Eau de Toilette -1970s-1980s
• Eau de Parfum - 1980s-1990s
• Foaming Bath Cream
• Bath and Shower Gel
• Bath Oil
• Body Cream
• Soap
• Spray Deodorant
• Dusting Powder
• Talcum Powder
• Silver tone filigree perfume flacon necklace (1976)

Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1989, Madame Rochas underwent a significant transformation when it was reformulated by perfumers Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jacques Fraysse. This relaunch marked a new chapter for the fragrance, aiming to contemporize its appeal while maintaining its timeless elegance. The reformulation process likely involved adjusting the composition to align with evolving trends and consumer preferences of the late 1980s, ensuring it remained relevant in a competitive market.

Accompanying the reformulation was a complete overhaul of the packaging. The new design introduced in 1989 would have reflected contemporary aesthetics and packaging trends of the time, potentially departing from earlier ornate designs to embrace a more streamlined and modern look. Details such as bottle shape, cap design, and label aesthetics would have been carefully reconsidered to enhance shelf presence and appeal to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts.

This relaunch was not just about updating the scent and packaging but also about revitalizing Madame Rochas' image to resonate with modern sensibilities while preserving its classic allure. By combining the expertise of Sieuzac and Fraysse in perfume creation with a fresh visual identity, Parfums Marcel Rochas aimed to ensure Madame Rochas continued to captivate and enchant perfume lovers well into the 1990s and beyond.

1989 Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? This new version was based on the original but with a slightly more intense formula.  The reformulated version bottles have beading along the edge of the cap.

• Top notes: orange blossom, broom, honeysuckle and neroli
• Middle notes: ylang-ylang, tuberose, jasmine, orris and Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, musk and amber

Scent Profile:

The 1989 reformulation of Madame Rochas takes its cue from the original 1960 version, maintaining its signature floral elegance but enhancing the richness and intensity of the scent, making it feel slightly more modern while still honoring its timeless sophistication. The newer formula, with its subtly more intense profile, holds onto the radiant, fresh character of the original while bringing a fuller, deeper experience to the wearer. Bottled with beading along the edge of the cap, this reformulated version feels a touch more ornamental, hinting at a refined, ornate elegance that matches the fragrance itself.

As the scent unfurls, the top notes open with the crisp, sweet, and ever-luminous presence of orange blossom. Its clean, soapy floral scent fills the air, enveloping you in an initial burst of brightness. The orange blossom used here, likely sourced from the Mediterranean region, brings with it a special freshness, its delicate balance between bitter and sweet enhanced by the neroli, which is derived from the same bitter orange tree. Neroli's soft, honeyed, and slightly citrusy scent enhances the complexity, with its lightness offering a beautiful contrast to the deeper, more opulent florals that are to come. Honeysuckle adds its own floral sweetness, reminiscent of a sun-warmed garden, with a honeyed warmth that blends effortlessly into the orange blossom and neroli. The broom, an ingredient often found in Mediterranean fragrances, brings a green, slightly herbaceous note to the top, grounding the otherwise sweet, heady florals with a subtle earthy undertone.

As the fragrance moves into the heart, the richness of Madame Rochas truly begins to unfold. The ylang-ylang, sourced from Madagascar, enters the composition with its lush, tropical sweetness. Its scent is full-bodied, sweet, and slightly creamy, evoking a sense of the exotic warmth of the island. This flower’s intensity is balanced by the creamy, almost waxy nature of tuberose, which lends its intoxicating, heady scent to the composition. Tuberose in this formula brings an almost narcotic quality to the heart, its powerful floral note swirling around with lush, velvety warmth. Jasmine, known for its opulent, warm, and sensual qualities, adds a touch of sweetness and depth to this floral bouquet, as its heady aroma wraps the wearer in a velvety haze. The inclusion of orris, or iris root, is especially notable, bringing its soft, powdery elegance into the middle notes, with an almost velvety, earthy undertone that contrasts beautifully with the floral richness. Bulgarian rose, an ingredient renowned for its depth and complexity, anchors this heart with a velvety smoothness that is both sweet and slightly spicy. The rose's rich, honeyed nuances deepen the scent, its warmth providing a beautifully sophisticated touch.

In the base, the fragrance takes on a softer, woody depth that perfectly complements the floral heart. Sandalwood, in its iconic creamy and slightly milky form, offers a smooth, velvety foundation that lingers on the skin, adding a gentle warmth that feels almost comforting. Cedar, with its dry, woody aroma, adds structure to the base, grounding the fragrance and adding a sense of freshness. Vetiver, with its green, earthy, and smoky qualities, brings a slightly woody edge to the composition, balancing the sweet, creamy florals with its dry, almost grassy nuance. The musk adds a soft, animalic warmth to the base, subtly enhancing the overall richness of the fragrance without being overpowering. Amber, a resinous note that carries warmth and depth, rounds out the composition with its sweet, balsamic richness, providing an enduring finish that leaves a lingering, sensual trail.

Comparing the 1989 reformulation to the original 1960 version, the most notable difference is the enhanced intensity and depth. While the original Madame Rochas was known for its light, airy quality, this reformulation creates a richer, fuller experience. The florals in the newer version, especially the ylang-ylang and tuberose, feel more potent, almost magnified, giving the scent a fuller, more enveloping character. The base, too, feels a bit more robust, with the addition of stronger, more assertive woody and amber notes that create a deeper, more lasting trail compared to the original’s more ethereal finish. The beading on the edge of the cap is a subtle visual cue to this change—an elegant touch that complements the fragrance's slightly more opulent feel. While both versions share the same core ingredients and floral character, the 1989 reformulation seems to embrace a modern, more intense interpretation, designed for those who seek a fragrance that feels more enduring and enveloping, but still retains the essence of the original's grace and beauty.

Packaging:

The new edition of Madame Rochas, launched in 1989 after the reformulation by Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jacques Fraysse, featured a revamped packaging designed by the renowned Pierre Dinand. Known for his elegant and iconic designs in the world of perfumery, Dinand's touch would have brought a fresh, contemporary aesthetic to Madame Rochas while honoring its classic heritage.

The fragrance was offered in three sizes to cater to different preferences and needs: 30 ml, 50 ml, and 100 ml in Eau de Toilette concentration. This range of sizes ensured that Madame Rochas could be enjoyed both as a personal indulgence and a luxurious gift option, appealing to a wide spectrum of fragrance enthusiasts.

Dinand's design for the packaging would likely have emphasized clean lines, modern shapes, and possibly a refined color palette that complemented the updated fragrance within. The goal would have been to capture the essence of Madame Rochas' timeless elegance while presenting it in a manner that resonated with contemporary tastes and expectations.

Overall, the collaboration between Pierre Dinand and Parfums Marcel Rochas in 1989 resulted in a new edition of Madame Rochas that not only refreshed the fragrance itself but also revitalized its presentation, ensuring its continued relevance and appeal in the evolving landscape of perfumery.

2013 Reformulation & Repackaging:

Madame Rochas underwent another significant transformation in 2013 when it was reformulated and relaunched with new packaging. This update marked a deliberate effort by Parfums Marcel Rochas to adapt the fragrance to contemporary tastes while preserving its classic charm. The reformulation process likely involved adjusting the fragrance composition to reflect current trends and consumer preferences, ensuring it remained relevant in the competitive perfume market.

Accompanying the reformulation was a redesign of the packaging, which aimed to rejuvenate Madame Rochas' visual identity. The new packaging would have been crafted to resonate with modern aesthetics, possibly featuring sleek lines, minimalist designs, and a sophisticated color scheme. Such updates in packaging design are typically aimed at enhancing the overall appeal of the fragrance on store shelves and in the eyes of consumers.

This relaunch in 2013 represented a blend of honoring Madame Rochas' heritage while embracing contemporary sensibilities. It aimed to reintroduce the fragrance to both longtime devotees and new audiences alike, ensuring that Madame Rochas continued to captivate with its timeless elegance and allure.

2013 Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, lily-of-the-valley and neroli
• Middle notes: jasmine and Bulgarian rose
• Base notes: sandalwood and iris

 

Scent Profile:

The 2013 reformulation of Madame Rochas represents yet another evolution of this iconic fragrance, maintaining the delicate floral elegance that has made it a classic, while adapting to contemporary tastes and regulatory standards. Compared to both the original 1960 formulation and the 1989 revision, this version simplifies the structure somewhat, focusing on a softer, more streamlined expression of the fragrance’s classic florals, with a gentler base and lighter overall character.

The opening of the 2013 version is immediately fresh and effervescent, with the aldehydes sparkling like a burst of clean, soapy air. These aldehydes bring an uplifting, almost metallic crispness, adding a touch of brightness to the fragrance that feels airy and light, invoking a sense of sparkling clarity. The aldehydes are at once ethereal and tactile, creating a fleeting, effervescent feeling as they intermingle with the gentle, green floral notes of lily-of-the-valley. Known for its fresh, dewy aroma, lily-of-the-valley contributes a soft, tender sweetness, reminiscent of spring rain, evoking the image of delicate white bells swaying in a soft breeze. The freshness of lily-of-the-valley is enhanced by neroli, whose distinctively bright, sweet-citrusy character imbues the fragrance with a sense of elegance and sophistication. The neroli, derived from the bitter orange tree in the Mediterranean, lends its slightly honeyed, yet crisp floral note that is simultaneously uplifting and calming, creating a harmonious balance with the green, slightly soapy nature of the lily-of-the-valley.

As the fragrance transitions to the heart, the rich and lush floral notes of jasmine and Bulgarian rose take center stage. Jasmine, a key note in the Madame Rochas lineage, fills the composition with its intoxicatingly sensual and opulent aroma. This jasmine, sourced primarily from regions like Egypt or India, brings its signature creamy, slightly indolic scent—rich, warm, and deeply floral, with a subtle animalic edge that adds complexity. The Bulgarian rose, with its revered depth and sweetness, amplifies the floral heart. Known for its full-bodied, honeyed sweetness, Bulgarian rose is among the finest and most prized rose varieties. It imparts a deep, romantic richness to the fragrance, which contrasts beautifully with the sharper, fresher elements of the opening notes. The rose’s smooth, velvety richness in this version is both comforting and intoxicating, but softer compared to the more complex floral heart of previous versions.

In the base, the 2013 reformulation is notably simpler, with a focus on sandalwood and iris. The sandalwood, with its creamy, slightly milky texture, adds a smooth, grounding element to the composition, making the fragrance feel soft and enveloping. This sandalwood, likely sourced from Australia or India, offers a more modern, less intense woodiness compared to earlier formulations. It is smoother and less smoky, creating a light, almost velvety quality that enhances the freshness of the floral heart. Iris, a signature ingredient in many classic fragrances, adds an elegant, powdery finish to the base. The iris used here, likely a variety from Italy (Florence is particularly renowned for its high-quality iris), lends a soft, floral, and slightly earthy undertone that balances the creamy sandalwood. The iris’s soft powderiness is often likened to the texture of fine, luxurious cosmetics, making it a fitting finish to the fragrance’s elegant composition. Together, these ingredients create a base that is smooth, refined, and effortlessly chic.

Compared to the 1960 original and the 1989 reformulation, the 2013 version feels lighter, more transparent, and more streamlined. The aldehydes in the opening are more pronounced, making the fragrance feel airier and less dense than the earlier iterations. In contrast, the original 1960 formula had a more complex, layered structure, with richer, more opulent florals and a fuller, deeper base. The 1989 version, while still maintaining the floral heart, introduced a more intense and vibrant interpretation of the scent, with stronger presence of ylang-ylang and tuberose, giving it a bolder, more opulent character. The 2013 formulation, however, feels more restrained and modern, focusing on a cleaner, fresher impression of floral femininity.

The IFRA (International Fragrance Association) restrictions on certain ingredients, particularly with regard to materials like oakmoss and some florals, likely played a role in the changes made in the 2013 reformulation. Oakmoss, which was a key note in the earlier versions, is no longer used in the same way due to its restricted use in modern perfumery, due to its potential to cause skin sensitization. In this reformulation, the more traditional base notes of oakmoss and ambergris have been replaced with smoother, less controversial elements like sandalwood and iris, making the fragrance safer while maintaining its elegant and refined essence.

Ultimately, the 2013 reformulation of Madame Rochas stands as a more subtle, contemporary interpretation of a classic floral aldehyde, maintaining the heart of the original while adapting to the evolving landscape of modern perfumery. Its lighter, airier composition feels like a delicate homage to the past, retaining the timeless elegance and sophistication that made it a beloved fragrance for decades.