Sunday, January 18, 2015

Madame Rochas by Rochas c1960

Madame Rochas by Rochas: launched in 1960. Created by Guy Robert.



Fragrance Composition:


So what does the original smell like? It is classified as a soft yet rich floral-aldehyde fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon and neroli 
  • Middle notes: jasmine, Bulgarian rose, tuberose, lily-of-the-valley, orris root, ylang-ylang, violet and narcissus
  • Base notes: ambergris, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, cedar, oakmoss and tonka bean

Guy Robert composed the perfume using nearly two hundred ingredients. One major base that he used was "Jasmine Flower" created in 1947 by Hubert Fraysse at Synarome, it had a beautiful jasmine accord with the tonal quality of orange blossom. This base was also used for Caleche by Hermes.


Bottles:


First edition represents a replica of an 18th century octagonal Baccarat cut crystal bottle that Helene Rochas spotted in a window in a Parisian antique shop.  The final design was created by Pierre Dinand. the bottle was manufactured by Pochet et du Courval with plastic by Augros. These bottles are topped with a gold tone metal cap and adorned with a beaded gold tone metal collar, they were still being used in the 1970s and 1980s. The labels all had the elegant Madame Rochas copperplate script with initialed capitals and lower-cased letters.

Parfums Marcel Rochas fills a void. Parfum de Toilette is lighter than perfume, yet much longer lasting than cologne. It's the great in-between. With the Parfum de Toilette, you resume more lightly, one can be carefully lavish.

From the early 1960s to the late 1970s, some of the Eau de Cologne and the Parfum de Toilette bottles were simple cylindrical bottles with a screen printed brocade pattern on the glass, topped with gold plastic caps. The boxes have the same orangey gold brocade pattern on the white background.

The vintage (original) formula was available in the following:
  • Parfum (perfume) - 1960s-1980s
  • Eau de Cologne - 1960s-1980s
  • Parfum de Toilette - 1970s-1980s
  • Eau de Toilette -1970s-1980s
  • Eau de Parfum - 1980s-1990s
  • Foaming Bath Cream
  • Bath and Shower Gel
  • Bath Oil
  • Body Cream
  • Soap
  • Spray Deodorant
  • Dusting Powder
  • Talcum Powder
  •  Silver tone filigree perfume flacon necklace (1976)


Fate of the Fragrance:


Reformulated by Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jacques Fraysse and relaunched in new packaging in 1989. So what does it smell like? This new version was based on the original but with a slightly more intense formula.  The reformulated version bottles have beading along the edge of the cap.
  • Top notes: orange blossom, broom, honeysuckle and neroli
  • Middle notes: ylang-ylang, tuberose, jasmine, orris and Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, musk and amber

The new edition package was designed by Pierre Dinand and is available in 30, 50 and 100 ml edt.

Repackaged in 2013.


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