Balestra by Renato Balestra c1978

Renato Balestra, an Italian fashion designer renowned for his sophisticated couture, was known for his elegant, dramatic designs that blended timeless Italian craftsmanship with modern flair. By 1978, when Balestra was launched, his name was synonymous with luxury, refinement, and high fashion. Choosing to name the perfume after himself, Balestra, likely emphasized a personal connection to his creative identity. The word "Balestra" comes from Italian, meaning "crossbow," which is pronounced bah-LEH-strah. The name evokes precision, strength, and a sense of direction, much like the elegant, defined lines that characterized his couture collections. Women who wore the fragrance may have imagined themselves embodying these qualities—graceful yet powerful, poised yet daring.

The name "Balestra" also suggests imagery of movement and swiftness, bringing to mind a confident woman aiming for her ambitions with precision and elegance. In the late 1970s, women were asserting themselves more prominently in various spheres of life, and a fragrance called "Balestra" would have appealed to those who saw themselves as dynamic and modern, yet still feminine. The name might have conjured feelings of empowerment, as well as a deep connection to Italian artistry and heritage.

In scent, "Balestra" could be interpreted as embodying this balance of strength and femininity. Classified as a fresh floral fragrance, it opens with a bright aldehydic top, which adds a sparkling, slightly metallic crispness, like a clean, fresh breeze. This aldehydic layer is softened by green and fruity notes, suggesting the ripe sweetness of orchards in spring, perhaps evoking images of a verdant Italian countryside under a bright sky. There’s a sense of freshness, energy, and vitality in this introduction—an invitation to embrace the day with confidence.

Alambic by Perfumes Jacques Heim c1930

Alambic by Perfumes Jacques Heim was launched in 1930, a time marked by significant social and cultural changes. The 1930s were defined by the aftermath of the Roaring Twenties, a period of economic prosperity and cultural exuberance that came to a sudden halt with the Great Depression beginning in 1929. The world faced economic hardship, leading to widespread unemployment and poverty. Despite these challenges, the decade also saw remarkable developments in art, fashion, and technology. People sought escapism through films, radio, and other forms of entertainment, and luxury goods like perfumes offered a sense of elegance and respite from daily struggles.

An alembic, from the Arabic "al-anbīq" meaning "the still," is a traditional distillation apparatus used historically in alchemy and perfumery. It consists of two vessels connected by a tube, designed to heat and cool liquids to separate their components based on different boiling points. In perfumery, the alembic is crucial for extracting essential oils from flowers, herbs, and other raw materials, creating the foundation for fragrances. Its association with perfumery lies in its role in refining and capturing the essence of natural ingredients, symbolizing the transformation of raw materials into something precious and pure.

Jacques Heim, a renowned French couturier, chose the name "Alambic" for his perfume, reflecting the meticulous and transformative process of creating a fragrance. The word "alambic" is French, directly referring to the distillation apparatus. Naming a perfume "Alambic" is appropriate because it evokes the image of craftsmanship, precision, and the art of distillation. It suggests a perfume crafted with care, involving the extraction of the finest elements to produce a luxurious and refined scent.

Parfums Calixte

Calixte, the fashion house, was renowned for its refined aesthetic and operated from 227 rue St.-Honoré in Paris, a district synonymous with luxury and haute couture. In the 1940s, the brand ventured into perfumery, introducing a small but distinctive collection of fragrances. These perfumes, crafted with the sophistication and artistry of the era, have since become exceedingly rare. Their scarcity is a result of limited production, the passage of time, and their specific historical context during a tumultuous period in Europe.

The name Calixte is of Greek origin, derived from the masculine name Callistus or its feminine counterpart Callista, meaning "most beautiful" or "most excellent." It carries connotations of beauty, excellence, and nobility, which align perfectly with its use as the name of a Parisian fashion house. The name is pronounced kah-LEEXT in French, reflecting its elegance and sophistication.

Today, Calixte's perfumes are highly sought after by collectors and vintage perfume enthusiasts, though they are rarely found in the modern market. These elusive treasures hold a unique place in the history of perfumery, representing a bygone era of exclusivity and artisanal excellence.

Amadis by Pierre Cardin c1958

Amadis by Pierre Cardin was launched in 1958. The name "Amadis" is derived from the romantic medieval French legends, particularly from the character Amadis de Gaulle. Additionally, "Amadis" is also a fashion term referring to a type of tight-fitting sleeve. It's interesting to see how the perfume's name draws inspiration from both literature and fashion.

Parfums de Callot Soeurs

Callot Soeurs, a distinguished couture house founded in 1895, began its journey on the elegant Avenue Matignon in Paris. The house was established by the Callot sisters: Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand, and Regine Callot Chantrelle. Their early success was anchored in their exquisite use of antique laces, ribbons, and textiles, a hallmark of their sophisticated designs. This unique approach set them apart in the fashion world, capturing the essence of timeless elegance and meticulous craftsmanship.

Gianni Versace by Versace c1981

Gianni Versace by Gianni Versace: launched in 1981 in association with the Charles of the Ritz group. This was the first perfume introduced by late fashion designer Versace.

Halston

Halston (pronounced HALL'-STON).

Established by fashion designer Roy Halston Frowick (1932-1990) in Des Moines; started as a milliner. There is tons of info on Halston online, so I won't go into that here, but I will concentrate on his fragrances.

Womenswear by Alexander Julian c1992

Alexander Julian, known for his innovative designs and vibrant use of color, launched a women's wear line in 1992 in collaboration with Paul Sebastian, the noted fashion designer and perfumer. The line was anticipated to bring Julian's signature style and flair to women's fashion, much like his successful menswear collections.

Calvin Klein by Calvin Klein c1978

Calvin Klein by Calvin Klein: launched in 1978 along with a complete makeup and skincare collection developed with Stanley Kohlenberg, the man who masterminded Norell fragrances at Revlon. 

Due to the packaging, this is also known as Calvin Klein (red) by collectors.

Mollie Parnis by Mollie Parnis c1978

Mollie Parnis by Mollie Parnis: launched in 1978 under the name Mollie Parnis Cosmetics Dist., possibly in conjunction with Parfums Weil. The perfume was concocted in France but botted in the USA. She chose tuberose as a main ingredient as it was her favorite flower, one of which she used to keep fresh blossoms in vases in her office.

In a 1977 article, Mollie Parnis mentions that "The French had ideas about perfume, I had some about fashion, we finally agreed...The world is getting more American designer oriented...I believe that creativity, whether it's in the arts or anything else, is where the money is. The money is here, we have the know-how and the creativity. "

Babani

Babani Perfumes & Elizabeth Arden

Elizabeth Arden was also the importer of the ultra exclusive French Babani perfumes.

Cardin de Pierre Cardin c1976

Cardin de Pierre Cardin launched in 1976.

Shandoah by Jacques Heim c1960

Launched in 1960, Shandoah by Jacques Heim is a fragrance that carries a name rich with evocative imagery and emotion. The name "Shandoah" is derived from the Shenandoah Valley, located in Virginia, USA, and is pronounced as "shan-doe-ah." This picturesque valley, characterized by its lush landscapes, rolling hills, and vibrant flora, evokes feelings of tranquility, natural beauty, and romance. The choice of this name for a perfume suggests a desire to encapsulate the essence of serene, wild beauty—a fitting representation for a fragrance designed for women during a time when nature was often romanticized in art and culture.

As a fresh aldehydic fruity floral fragrance, Shandoah embraces a captivating blend of woody and fruity notes, drawing attention to its multifaceted composition. The inclusion of three varieties of rose in the scent elevates its profile, infusing it with a richness and depth that would have appealed to the women of the era. The delicate balance of freshness and floral sweetness would evoke feelings of youthfulness and vitality, aligning perfectly with the sensibilities of the 1960s—a decade marked by a spirit of liberation, experimentation, and self-expression.

During the early 1960s, the fragrance market was witnessing a surge in popularity for aldehydic compositions, largely popularized by the iconic Chanel No. 5. In this context, Shandoah can be seen as a continuation of this trend, offering a fresh take on floral scents while incorporating unique fruity elements that set it apart. The use of woody undertones further enhances its complexity, appealing to women who sought fragrances that resonated with their evolving identities and lifestyles. In this dynamic atmosphere, Shandoah would have been perceived as both fashionable and modern, capturing the spirit of a generation eager for new experiences.

Sirene by Vicky Tiel c1993

"Sirene" by Vicky Tiel is a notable fragrance that was initially launched in 1993. In 1996, it began to be marketed by Parlux Fragrances, Inc., which helped to increase its visibility and availability in the market. The fragrance is known for its unique and alluring scent profile, making it a beloved choice among many perfume enthusiasts.

KL by Karl Lagerfeld c1982

KL by Karl Lagerfeld: launched in 1982. Created by Roger Pellegrino of Firmenich. KL, a  blend of lush fruits, sumptuous flowers, intense spices, smoldering woods, amber and myrrh, was aimed at the woman with "a divine kind of madness," said the publicity material. 

Originally, Lagerfeld's perfume was to have been called Fantastic, a play on the designer's longtime love of fans, which he obsessively collected. Copyright problems necessitate the change of name to the rather subdued KL."I'm mad for perfumes, I could make one every week," said Lagerfeld in the film Karl Lagerfeld. "Chloe was a fragrance of the 70s, KL is a fragrance of the 80s."

Torrente by Parfums Torrente c1977

Torrente by Parfums Torrente: launched in 1977, in USA in 1978.

 

Martial et Armand Perfumes

Martial et Armand,  (Mahr-see-al ay Arm-ahn) couture house of 10 place Vendome, Paris.

Mary Quant Perfumes

In 1967, clothing designer Mary Quant presented her line of perfumes for women.

Guy Laroche

Guy Laroche was born on July 16, 1923 near La Rochelle on France's Atlantic coast. Before he traveled to the USA, he worked briefly as a milliner even though he had no formal training. While he was in the United States, he studied manufacturing methods for ready to wear clothing.

Parfums Worth

Worth was a couture house located at 7 rue de la Paix, Paris.


 It was established in 1858 by Charles Frederick Worth . He was born in 1826 and trained in England. Soon began designing dresses for his wife, and the admiration of others caused Worth to open a fashion department in a fabric store where he worked after 1846. He became a successful couturier, designing for Empress Eugenie and other European royalty.