KL by Karl Lagerfeld c1982

Launched in 1982, KL by Karl Lagerfeld carried a name that was as bold and minimalist as the designer himself. The initials "KL" — Lagerfeld’s own monogram — conveyed an immediate sense of personal branding and luxury. In a decade where fashion houses were expanding into fragrance, this choice underscored Lagerfeld’s growing influence beyond couture. The simplicity of the name, devoid of florid language, mirrored the sharp, graphic logos dominating high fashion at the time — think Chanel’s interlocking C’s (where Lagerfeld also reigned) or YSL’s bold initials. The name "KL" evoked sophistication, modernity, and exclusivity — a signature scent that felt both intimate and high-profile.

The early 1980s were a time of cultural and social transformation. The era saw the rise of power dressing, fueled by the increasing presence of women in corporate and public life. Sharp shoulders, tailored silhouettes, and luxurious fabrics defined the wardrobe of the modern woman — a visual statement of strength and ambition. Fashion designers like Lagerfeld became celebrities, and their creations symbolized status and style. This period, often characterized as the "Decade of Excess," was marked by economic shifts, technological advances, and a cultural embrace of opulence. The fragrance industry reflected this mood, with bold, statement-making scents dominating the market — a departure from the softer, greener fragrances of the 1970s.

Women in this era would likely have seen KL as a fragrance that embodied their newfound empowerment and sensuality. The tagline describing it as meant for a woman with "a divine kind of madness" appealed to the era’s embrace of daring, charismatic femininity — think Joan Collins in Dynasty or the audacious confidence of Grace Jones. The KL woman wasn’t demure; she commanded attention, and her fragrance announced her arrival before she even spoke.

The fragrance itself, crafted by Roger Pellegrino of Firmenich, was a striking interpretation of the oriental-spicy category. From the first spray, it delivered a fiery burst of citrus, enhanced by the boldness of pimento, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and pepper — an unapologetic, almost culinary opening. The heart softened into a lush bouquet of jasmine, rose, magnolia, ylang ylang, freesia, and orchid — rich, but still pulsing with the spices. The base, a smoldering blend of ambergris, civet, musk, precious woods, and incense, left a trail that felt sensual, warm, and faintly animalic.

In the context of the fragrance market at the time, KL wasn’t alone in its boldness. Other power fragrances like Opium by Yves Saint Laurent (1977) and Cinnabar by Estée Lauder (1978) had already paved the way for rich, spicy orientals. However, KL distinguished itself with its sheer extravagance — combining the heat of spices with a lavish floral heart and a smoky, provocative base. It was more than a scent — it was a statement piece, much like Lagerfeld’s designs.

For the women who wore it, KL wasn’t just perfume. It was an olfactory embodiment of the era’s unapologetic glamour — a fragrance that, like the designer’s monogram, left an indelible mark.

 

Originally, Karl Lagerfeld envisioned his bold new fragrance bearing the name "Fanatic" or "Fantastic" — a playful, exuberant nod to his lifelong passion for hand fans. For Lagerfeld, fans were more than decorative accessories; they were symbols of mystery, sophistication, and seduction, blending functionality with beauty. He collected them obsessively, amassing an enviable array of rare and ornate examples from across the globe. The proposed name "Fantastic" would have captured this spirit perfectly, hinting at a fragrance that was daring, extravagant, and unmistakably Lagerfeld — a bottled embodiment of his flair for the dramatic.

However, copyright complications abruptly ended that vision. Legal hurdles forced a pivot to the far more subdued KL, a sharp departure from the vivid energy of the original name. While the change was born out of practicality, it unintentionally mirrored the complexity of Lagerfeld’s own persona — a man who balanced flamboyance with restraint, opulence with precision. The name KL, though minimalist in its form, carried an air of authority and modernity, echoing the clean lines and bold silhouettes that defined his fashion designs.

Reluctantly, Lagerfeld agreed to the new moniker. To inject some of his iconic personality into the branding, he approved a striking, stylized silhouette of himself — complete with his signature ponytail — to accompany the perfume’s name. This clever visual touch transformed the otherwise simple KL into something uniquely his: a quiet yet powerful statement. It became more than a name; it was a symbol, a modern crest that represented both the man and his artistry. Though the lawyers had vetoed "Fanatic", Lagerfeld found a way to leave his unmistakable mark — as he always did — ensuring that even in compromise, his fragrance would remain fantastic in every way.

KL marked Lagerfeld’s third fragrance license with Elizabeth Arden, following the success of Chloé, which had become an iconic, romantic scent of the 1970s. Lagerfeld’s love for fragrance was undeniable; he once declared in the documentary Karl Lagerfeld, “I’m mad for perfumes. I could make one every week.” His creative energy seemed endless, and KL embodied that restless drive to reinvent and redefine. He saw fragrance as a crucial extension of his designs, a way for women to wear his vision not just on their bodies but in the air around them.

KL wasn’t just a fragrance — it was Karl Lagerfeld’s olfactory self-portrait, a blend of his personal tastes and artistic philosophy. The scent was said to be composed of his own preferred combination of passion fruit, tangerine, sandalwood, coriander, and Madagascar cloves — an unexpected yet masterful contrast of sweet, spicy, and woody notes. Lagerfeld himself explained the reasoning behind this unique blend, stating that the cloves "add a fresh fruit touch. Heavy but light. The contrast is like warm snow and cold sun." This description perfectly encapsulated his approach to fashion as well: a harmonious clash of opposites, balancing decadence with modernity.

Lagerfeld believed fragrance wasn’t just an accessory — it was a statement. "I adore fragrance," he proclaimed. "It is fashion for the nose. Perfume is an art, too. It creates an atmosphere. It becomes an identity." For him, scent was an extension of personal style, just as vital as the clothes a woman wore. He envisioned KL as more than a perfume — it was a mood, an aura, something that lingered in a room long after a woman had left.

His belief in perfume as a tool of personal expression extended beyond the body. He famously suggested that a woman should "put a dot of it even on her stationery," infusing her letters with the same elegance and individuality that she carried with her in person. This sentiment harks back to the romantic traditions of centuries past when aristocratic women would scent their correspondence, ensuring that even their written words left a trace of their presence behind.

With KL, Lagerfeld offered a modern version of this timeless idea — a fragrance that wasn’t merely worn, but lived in. It was bold, sensual, and unapologetically luxurious — a bottled reflection of the man who created it.

The designer himself acknowledged the generational shift between his scents. “Chloé was a fragrance of the 70s, KL is a fragrance of the 80s,” he explained. This distinction was more than a statement — it was a deliberate reflection of evolving tastes and attitudes. While Chloé captured the soft, romantic, free-spirited femininity of the bohemian '70s, KL embodied the audacity, power, and sensuality of the 1980s woman. It traded innocence for confidence, lightness for intensity, and subtlety for seduction. In Lagerfeld’s world, KL wasn’t just a perfume — it was the olfactory signature of a new era, where women claimed space unapologetically and left a lingering, unforgettable impression.

The Launch:

The launch of KL by Karl Lagerfeld wasn’t just a fragrance debut — it was an event that embodied the designer’s signature blend of extravagance and sophistication. The perfume made its first appearance in Europe at the end of 1982, marked by a lavish black-tie gala at the gardens of Versailles, a setting that echoed Lagerfeld’s flair for the dramatic and his love of French grandeur. Another opulent celebration followed on October 15, 1982, at Ledoyen, a prestigious restaurant on the Champs-Élysées, where an outdoor gazebo became the heart of the festivities. These high-profile events set the tone for KL as not merely a fragrance, but a symbol of modern luxury and style.

After its swift success in Europe, KL was slated for a U.S. launch. However, it didn’t arrive stateside until May 1983, accompanied by a two-week promotional tour. Rumors swirled that Elizabeth Arden delayed the American debut due to Lagerfeld’s recent appointment as creative director at Chanel — a move that electrified the fashion world and reshaped the house’s future. However, Arden spokesperson Jack Bolster clarified that the delay stemmed from the sluggish U.S. economy. Retailers were hesitant to introduce a luxury perfume priced at $150 an ounce, fearing consumers weren’t ready for such an extravagant purchase. In a time when Americans were still recovering from a recession, KL was a bold statement of indulgence — a fragrance meant for women who refused to compromise on elegance, even in leaner times.

The U.S. launch was anything but ordinary. At Block’s department store in Indianapolis, the unveiling became a multi-sensory event, featuring floral exhibits inspired by the fragrance’s composition. To honor Lagerfeld’s well-known love of hand fans, origami fan-folding demonstrations were led by Michiko Selby, adding an interactive, cultural touch to the festivities. Meanwhile, Rich’s Lenox Square store in Atlanta curated a stunning display of fifteen hand fans from Lagerfeld’s personal collection — a rare glimpse into the designer’s private passion.

In Canada, the KL rollout was equally ambitious. Ads appeared in nine major publications, and over 680,000 scent strips, along with 2,000 sample vials, were distributed at Holt’s 240 Sparks store in Ottawa. The store promised an extravagant experience, living up to the Lagerfeld legacy. The fragrance’s packaging — a sophisticated blend of gray, coral, and gold — carried a stylized fan motif, seamlessly tying together Lagerfeld’s personal symbolism with the perfume’s visual identity. A traveling exhibition of hand fans from his collection made stops in Toronto and Montreal, further reinforcing the designer’s aesthetic vision.

One particularly memorable piece of the KL launch involved artist Bernard James Flynn, who was commissioned by Karl Lagerfeld Parfums to design the fragrance’s fine art logo. Flynn also created 120 lacquered fans for two exclusive launch events — one for the press and one for department stores. Reflecting on the process, Flynn humorously recounted the chaotic scene of making the fans in Key West, battling relentless humidity and “those little black mosquitoes that look like they have Jane Fonda leg warmers on.” His dedication, despite the less-than-glamorous conditions, encapsulated the spirit of KL — an uncompromising blend of artistry, passion, and high style.

The KL launch was a masterclass in blending fashion, fragrance, and spectacle. Lagerfeld didn’t just introduce a perfume — he curated an experience, weaving together his personal obsessions, the opulence of the era, and the bold confidence of the women who wore it. The fragrance became more than a scent; it was a statement, an accessory, and an invitation to step into the world of Karl Lagerfeld — a world where beauty, extravagance, and audacity reigned supreme.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? KL by Karl Lagerfeld is classified as a spicy oriental fragrance for women. It starts with a spicy top, followed by a spicy floral heart, resting on a sweet balsamic base. 

A seductive gathering of lush citrus fruits are married to a bouquet of sumptuous flowers including rose, jasmine, magnolia, tender orchid, ylang ylang and freesia. Generously sprinkled with a pungent spice blend of pimento, clove, nutmeg, cinnamon, and pepper, expertly layered over a base of precious woods and smoldering incense, lastly, revealing an animalic trace of ambergris, civet and sensuous musk.

• Top notes: spicy notes, aldehydes, Brazilian mandarin orange, Argentinian tangerine, Chinese magnolia, Polynesian passionfruit, Guernsey freesia, Grasse cassis, and Calabrian bergamot 
• Middle notes: Jamaican pimento berries, Madagascar clove, Vietnamese cinnamon, Zanzibar nutmeg, Malabar black pepper, Turkish rose, Egyptian jasmine, Manila ylang ylang and orchid
• Base notes: Sumatran styrax, Maltese labdanum, Omani frankincense, Somali olibanum, Abyssinian civet, ambergris, Sudanese myrrh, Bourbon vanilla, Haitian vetiver, Tonkin musk, Mysore sandalwood, Singapore patchouli and Siamese benzoin

 

Scent Profile:

The first breath of KL unfolds in a brilliant cascade of citrus and spice — an electrifying invitation to the senses. Brazilian mandarin orange and Argentinian tangerine burst forth, their sun-drenched sweetness softened by the sophisticated sparkle of Calabrian bergamot, renowned for its complex balance of bitterness and light. Interwoven with these vibrant fruits is the exotic pull of Polynesian passionfruit, its syrupy, tropical tang lending a lush, almost forbidden sensuality. 

The crispness of Guernsey freesia — airy, green, and slightly peppery — cuts through the sweetness, while Grasse cassis, cultivated in the perfume capital of France, imparts a dark, juicy tartness. A whisper of Chinese magnolia unfurls, creamy and lemony, tempering the fruit with an elegant floral coolness. The opening feels like a radiant, windswept sunrise, both invigorating and heady, a promise of what’s to come.

As the fragrance warms on the skin, the heart reveals a bold and daring spice accord, fiery yet lavishly floral. Jamaican pimento berries — bright, hot, and tinged with a faint fruitiness — set the tone, accompanied by Madagascar clove, the world’s most prized variety, known for its rich, eugenol-laden warmth that bridges spice and sweetness. Vietnamese cinnamon follows, its exotic sharpness offering a dry, almost smoky heat, countered by the nutty warmth of Zanzibar nutmeg, grown on the "Spice Island" and famed for its smooth, buttery aroma. Malabar black pepper from India, with its distinctive earthy bite, crackles through the heart, enhancing the floral richness. 

Turkish rose emerges — opulent, honeyed, and velvety — deepened by Egyptian jasmine’s intoxicating sweetness, cultivated along the Nile where the blossoms develop a rich, sun-drenched intensity. Manila ylang ylang from the Philippines swirls through the bouquet, exuding its creamy, banana-like richness, while tender orchid adds a soft, powdery exoticism. This heart is a sumptuous contradiction: fiery and passionate, yet soft and indulgent — a tribute to Lagerfeld’s vision of contrast.

Finally, KL sinks into a base that smolders with rare, precious materials — each note a testament to far-flung lands and centuries-old traditions. Sumatran styrax, a resin from the storied Indonesian island, exudes a leathery, balsamic depth, blending seamlessly with Maltese labdanum’s animalic, ambered richness. Omani frankincense — the most coveted variety, harvested from the arid cliffs of the Dhofar region — imparts a sacred, smoky glow, mirrored by Somali olibanum’s resinous clarity. Sudanese myrrh, bittersweet and warm, carries an ancient, almost meditative quality, enhancing the luxurious warmth of ambergris — that rare, ocean-aged treasure — which lends its salty-sweet, skin-like sensuality. 

Abyssinian civet, from the highlands of Ethiopia, adds an untamed, feral muskiness, a bold stroke of Lagerfeld’s irreverent glamour. Bourbon vanilla from Réunion Island offers a dark, creamy sweetness, balanced by the grassy, smoky coolness of Haitian vetiver. Mysore sandalwood — the gold standard of its kind, from the forests of India — exudes a smooth, milky woodiness, rich and lingering. Singapore patchouli brings the base to a close, its earthy, damp, and camphoraceous tone grounded by the caramel warmth of Siamese benzoin, a resin treasured for centuries in perfumery for its velvety sweetness.

Each note in KL feels deliberate, a sensory journey through distant lands and rare botanicals. It is both heavy and light, warm and cool, bold and tender — the embodiment of Lagerfeld’s belief that fragrance, like fashion, should be an art form, a personal signature that lingers in memory long after the wearer has gone.

Bottle:

Karl Lagerfeld’s lifelong fascination with antique hand fans extended far beyond a mere hobby — it was a passionate pursuit that culminated in an impressive collection sourced from around the world. These fans, delicate artifacts of artistry and culture, were later generously donated to various museums, ensuring their preservation for generations to admire. His love for collecting didn’t stop at fans; Lagerfeld was equally captivated by perfume bottles, appreciating them not only as vessels of fragrance but as miniature sculptures, each telling its own story of design and luxury.

It was this unique intersection of passions — for fans and for fragrance — that inspired the distinctive bottle for KL, a perfume and bath collection bearing his initials. The bottle, crafted from cut glass and shaped like a folding fan, embodied Lagerfeld’s aesthetic sensibilities and personal style. The design was brought to life by Marc Rosen Associates, a New York-based design firm known for creating some of the most iconic perfume packaging of the era. Marc Rosen himself explained the vision behind the design, stating, "When we did KL, I made the bottle fan-shaped because Karl Lagerfeld wears a ponytail and sees himself as an 18th-century man. It was the perfect symbol." The bottle became an extension of Lagerfeld’s persona — a nod to the romantic elegance of the past, balanced with the sharp sophistication of the modern age.

The packaging’s visual impact, coupled with the fragrance’s luxurious composition, earned it one of the highest honors in the perfume industry: the FiFi Award, presented by The Fragrance Foundation. Often referred to as the "Oscars of the perfume world," this accolade celebrated KL not just as a fragrance, but as a complete artistic statement — a seamless blend of scent, style, and storytelling. The fan-shaped flacon, with its multifaceted sparkle, captured the light much like Lagerfeld himself captured attention: effortlessly, dramatically, and with an undeniable sense of grandeur.

Product Line:

KL by Karl Lagerfeld was not merely a fragrance — it was an immersive experience, presented in an array of formats to suit every mood, moment, and level of indulgence. From the richest, most concentrated Parfum to the lighter, more wearable Eau de Toilette, each variation offered a different facet of KL’s sensual, spicy oriental profile.

The Parfum was the crown jewel of the collection — the purest, most potent expression of the scent. With a higher concentration of essential oils, typically around 20-30%, the parfum lingered for hours, unfolding in luxurious waves of exotic florals, warm spices, and balsamic sweetness. It was meant to be applied sparingly, with a single drop behind the ears or on the wrists enveloping the wearer in an intimate aura of fragrance. KL’s Parfum was available in three sizes: the petite 0.25 oz bottle retailed for $55, a 0.5 oz version for $95, and the most indulgent 1 oz flacon commanded $150 — a significant price tag reflective of its unparalleled richness.

The crystal, fan-shaped parfum flacon was available in three sizes:

• 1 oz - bottle measures 3" tall x 4" wide.
• 0.5 oz - bottle measures 2.5" tall x 3.5" wide.
• 0.25 oz - bottle measures 1.5" tall x 2.75" wide

For those who wanted to carry KL’s opulence on the go, the 0.25 oz Vaporisateur Parfum de Sac — a sleek, gold-tone purse spray — offered the same concentrated formula in a more portable, glamorous format. This shimmering, custom-designed piece retailed for $85, with refills available at $65. It wasn’t merely functional; it was a statement accessory in itself, embodying Lagerfeld’s belief that luxury should travel with you.

The Eau de Parfum (EdP) offered a slightly lighter alternative while still maintaining KL’s rich, spicy character. With a concentration of around 15-20%, it provided a longer-lasting, more vibrant scent trail than Eau de Toilette, though softer than the pure Parfum. It was presented in a convenient 0.25 oz spray, perfect for touch-ups or slipping into an evening clutch.

For everyday wear, KL’s Eau de Toilette (EdT) captured the essence of the fragrance in a more refreshing, versatile concentration — around 5-15%. The top notes sparkled brighter, and the dry down emerged more quickly, making it an ideal choice for daytime. The Eau de Toilette lineup ranged from a 0.5 oz purse spray and a 1 oz atomizer, to larger sizes like the 1.7 oz natural spray at $27.50 and a 3.3 oz version for $40 — making KL’s signature scent accessible without sacrificing elegance. For those who preferred a more traditional application, KL also came in splash bottles — 2 oz and 4.2 oz, priced at $27.50 and $40, respectively — allowing wearers to dab the fragrance on their pulse points for a more personal, subtle diffusion.

Each format of KL told a different story: the Parfum enveloped you in intimate luxury, the Eau de Parfum offered a vibrant balance of richness and longevity, while the Eau de Toilette sparkled with wearability and lightness. Together, they formed a wardrobe of scent — a complete olfactory expression of Lagerfeld’s bold, glamorous vision.

Bath & Body Products:

The KL fragrance line extended far beyond perfume, encompassing an indulgent collection of bath and body products designed to immerse wearers in Lagerfeld’s world of luxury from head to toe. Each product carried the signature KL scent — a rich, spicy oriental fragrance — while delivering sensorial pleasure through lavish textures and elegant packaging.

One standout piece in the collection was the 0.40 oz Flawless Finish Pressed Powder, housed in a stunning gold-tone compact adorned with Lagerfeld’s iconic double-fan design. More than just a touch-up powder, this compact was a statement accessory, embodying the fashion-forward glamour of KL. It added a final, polished touch to a woman’s look, enhancing her skin with a soft, matte finish while offering a discreet way to reapply fragrance throughout the day.

For those who sought a full-body experience, KL’s Perfumed Body Lotion provided a silky, ultra-rich formula infused with moisturizing emollients to smooth and soften the skin. Presented in a sleek, unbreakable 8.4 oz plastic bottle crowned with KL’s distinctive open-fan cap, this lotion offered both practicality and elegance. Retailing for $32.50, it left the skin feeling touchably soft and wrapped in KL’s signature scent — a subtle yet lasting fragrant embrace.

Complementing the lotion was the 8.4 oz Perfumed Bath & Shower Gel, a luxurious, lathering cleanser that gently washed away impurities while leaving the skin scented with KL’s opulent fragrance. It shared the same chic, durable packaging as the body lotion and retailed for $27.50 — an accessible indulgence that turned an ordinary shower into a moment of self-pampering.

For those who craved a richer, more indulgent skincare experience, KL’s 8.4 oz Perfumed Body Cream delivered. This ultra-luxurious, deeply hydrating crème melted into the skin, leaving it silky smooth and lavishly perfumed. Priced at $35.00, it was designed for those who desired a more decadent body treatment — perfect for layering under the KL parfum to enhance the fragrance’s longevity.

Dusting powders, a hallmark of old-world glamour, were reimagined with KL’s 3.5 oz and 5.3 oz Perfumed Dusting Powders. These ultra-fine, feather-light powders enveloped the body in a soft, cooling cloud of KL’s scent, evoking the nostalgic ritual of powdering after a bath. The 5.3 oz version, retailing for $35.00, was presented in an exquisite, custom-designed, fan-shaped powder box — transforming an everyday indulgence into an object of beauty.

KL even elevated the bath itself with the 5.3 oz Perfumed Foaming Bath Powder, a luxurious powder that effervesced into a cascade of fragrant bubbles when poured under running water. With a price of $32.50, it promised to transform the bath into a private sanctuary of scented indulgence, where KL’s opulent aroma filled the air and softened the skin.

To complete the line, KL introduced Perfumed Soaps in 1.75 oz and 3.5 oz sizes, each sculpted into a dramatic fan shape. The larger version, retailing for $12.50, came in a dazzling, custom-designed travel case — a portable piece of luxury that cleansed the skin with a rich, fragrant lather while making a visual statement on the vanity or in a travel bag.

For practical luxury, KL also offered a 4 oz Antiperspirant Deodorant Spray, delicately infused with the KL scent. This effective formula dried quickly, prevented wetness and odor, and ensured the wearer stayed fresh and subtly fragrant throughout the day. Retailing for $15.00, it brought KL’s unmistakable glamour to even the most routine part of a woman’s daily regimen.

From bath to body, powder to polish, KL’s extensive product range reflected Lagerfeld’s belief that fragrance should be more than a scent — it should be an immersive experience, seamlessly blending beauty, luxury, and practicality. Each item, meticulously designed and fragranced, invited women to live — and breathe — in the decadent, fan-shaped world of KL.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1982, KL by Karl Lagerfeld embodied the designer’s unique blend of extravagance and elegance, capturing his love for bold statements and timeless refinement. The fragrance, with its rich, spicy oriental notes, quickly became a favorite among those seeking a scent as distinctive and stylish as Lagerfeld himself. The fan-shaped bottle — inspired by his lifelong passion for antique hand fans — was an instant icon, merging fashion and fragrance in a way that felt both innovative and deeply personal. KL wasn’t just a perfume; it was a statement piece, a reflection of Lagerfeld’s larger-than-life persona and his affinity for 18th-century aesthetics.

Despite its initial success and devoted following, KL was discontinued in the 1990s, leaving behind a void for those who cherished its unforgettable scent. The fragrance’s disappearance from the market only added to its mystique, turning existing bottles into sought-after collectibles. Today, finding an original bottle of KL — whether in parfum, eau de toilette, or one of the many bath and body products — has become a challenge for enthusiasts and collectors alike. When vintage bottles do surface, they often command high prices on secondary markets, driven by both nostalgia and KL’s enduring reputation as one of Lagerfeld’s most personal creations.

The discontinuation marked the end of an era, but KL remains a lasting tribute to Karl Lagerfeld’s vision, where scent, fashion, and artistry intersected. It continues to be remembered not only for its opulent fragrance and striking design but also for the way it encapsulated the essence of Lagerfeld himself — bold, glamorous, and unforgettable.

How to determine the age:

KL by Karl Lagerfeld was originally produced and distributed by Bethco Fragrances, Inc., based in New York, New York. A subsidiary of Elizabeth Arden-Fabergé, Inc., Bethco was responsible for bringing a number of high-end fragrance lines to the American market, including those for Chloé, Karl Lagerfeld, and Fendi. As the exclusive American producer for these prestigious brands, Bethco’s involvement was instrumental in the fragrance's initial success, and early editions of KL can be identified by labels bearing the Bethco name. These bottles were primarily marketed in the United States, giving them a distinct stamp of luxury associated with the brand’s commitment to quality.

In the European and international markets, you may come across KL bottles labeled with "E. Arden-Milano" or simply marked with "UTIF" or "UTIF - Milano". The acronym UTIF stands for Unione Trasporti Internazionali di Firenze, an Italian alcohol sales license, indicating that these bottles were produced for international distribution. These bottles were often smaller-sized miniatures and generally did not feature the signature pink and gold stripe on the cap, a detail common to the American market editions. The variation in labeling highlights the dual distribution strategy, with Bethco handling U.S. operations while the European markets were handled by different entities under the same umbrella.

In 1989, the ownership of Bethco Fragrances changed hands when Unilever purchased the company. Despite this acquisition, early KL bottles continued to bear the Bethco name on their labels, marking the transition period. During this time, Elizabeth Arden created a new subdivision, Parfums International, Ltd., which took control of the fragrance brands under Unilever’s umbrella, including Karl Lagerfeld, Chloé, Fendi, and others. Bottles produced after this reorganization would reflect the Parfums International branding on their labels, marking a shift in management, but the products largely retained the same formulas and packaging as before.

 

The final editions of KL, produced after the Unilever acquisition, experienced reformulation and repackaging. These newer bottles lacked the iconic gold and pink stripe that defined the earlier versions, and their labels now prominently displayed the Unilever name. While the shift in branding and packaging marked a significant change for the KL fragrance, collectors and fragrance enthusiasts can still find examples of the earlier, pre-Unilever editions that remain unchanged in scent and form, preserving the original essence of the iconic Lagerfeld fragrance.