Alambic by Perfumes Jacques Heim c1930

Alambic by Perfumes Jacques Heim was launched in 1930, a time marked by significant social and cultural changes. The 1930s were defined by the aftermath of the Roaring Twenties, a period of economic prosperity and cultural exuberance that came to a sudden halt with the Great Depression beginning in 1929. The world faced economic hardship, leading to widespread unemployment and poverty. Despite these challenges, the decade also saw remarkable developments in art, fashion, and technology. People sought escapism through films, radio, and other forms of entertainment, and luxury goods like perfumes offered a sense of elegance and respite from daily struggles.

An alembic, from the Arabic "al-anbīq" meaning "the still," is a traditional distillation apparatus used historically in alchemy and perfumery. It consists of two vessels connected by a tube, designed to heat and cool liquids to separate their components based on different boiling points. In perfumery, the alembic is crucial for extracting essential oils from flowers, herbs, and other raw materials, creating the foundation for fragrances. Its association with perfumery lies in its role in refining and capturing the essence of natural ingredients, symbolizing the transformation of raw materials into something precious and pure.

Jacques Heim, a renowned French couturier, chose the name "Alambic" for his perfume, reflecting the meticulous and transformative process of creating a fragrance. The word "alambic" is French, directly referring to the distillation apparatus. Naming a perfume "Alambic" is appropriate because it evokes the image of craftsmanship, precision, and the art of distillation. It suggests a perfume crafted with care, involving the extraction of the finest elements to produce a luxurious and refined scent.

People who would have related to a perfume called "Alambic" were likely those who appreciated sophistication and the artistry behind perfume making. They might have been well-versed in luxury goods, understanding and valuing the effort and skill required to create such a product. Their response to this perfume would be one of admiration and appreciation, recognizing the name "Alambic" as a nod to tradition and excellence in perfumery.

The word "Alambic" evokes images of ancient laboratories, filled with glassware and the rich scent of distilled essences. It brings to mind a sense of mystery and elegance, the delicate balance of science and art in creating something exquisite. The feelings associated with "Alambic" are those of nostalgia, curiosity, and a deep appreciation for the beauty found in the precision of craftsmanship. For the wearer, the perfume would symbolize a connection to the past, a touch of history, and the timeless allure of expertly crafted fragrances.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Alambic by Perfumes Jacques Heim is classified as a warm floral chypre fragrance for women. There are no published notes in any of my references, so I used a sample from a bottle I had to tell you what I think it smells like. The perfume was recommended to be worn by brunettes.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, aldehydes, Sicilian lemon, Persian galbanum
• Middle notes: Grasse rose, Grasse jasmine, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Tuscan violet, Tunisian orange blossom
• Base notes: Java vetiver, Sumatran patchouli, Tyrolean oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Tibetan musk, Mexican vanilla, Maltese labdanum

Femme, 1946:

"More than modern, avant-garde and post-war, “Alambic,” by Jacques Heim; in its original presentation, this perfume is a sort of revelation. It is very floral, a little amber, neither hot nor fresh, but remarkably tenacious; really new."

France-Illustration: Le Monde Illustré - Issues 79-91, 1947: 

 “Alambic”, a new perfume by Jacques Heim. Charm and joy of spring, voluptuousness of the essences."

Scent Profile:

Alambic by Perfumes Jacques Heim is a beautifully complex and evocative warm floral chypre fragrance for women, one that embodies elegance and depth with every note. As you experience this fragrance, the top notes immediately greet you with a bright, sparkling blend of Calabrian bergamot, aldehydes, Sicilian lemon, and Persian galbanum. The Calabrian bergamot, sourced from the coastal region of Calabria in Southern Italy, brings a refreshing citrus edge—its distinct, tangy essence is brighter and more aromatic than other bergamots, often lending a sharpness that immediately awakens the senses. 

The aldehydes, with their clean, soapy quality, introduce a sophisticated, almost metallic facet, enhancing the crispness of the citrus. Sicilian lemon, renowned for its zestful freshness, provides a lively and tangy bite, grounding the fragrance in its citrus roots. The Persian galbanum, a resin derived from the Iranian plant, adds a unique green bitterness to the mix, evoking the scent of fresh, dewy herbs with a subtle sharpness, almost as if you’ve stepped into a lush garden after a rain.

As the fragrance begins to evolve, the middle notes emerge, enveloping you in an opulent and velvety heart of Grasse rose, Grasse jasmine, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Tuscan violet, and Tunisian orange blossom. The Grasse rose and Grasse jasmine, both iconic flowers from the region of Grasse in France, bring an exquisite richness and complexity, their sweet, intoxicating floral aromas mingling together to create a deep and sensual harmony. The Grasse jasmine is particularly prized for its creamy, narcotic scent, which adds a subtle sweetness and a lingering warmth. 

The Nossi-Be ylang ylang, originating from the island of Nossi-Be off the coast of Madagascar, infuses the heart with its unmistakable tropical, exotic sweetness. This ylang ylang is richer and more honeyed compared to other varieties, imparting a luxurious, slightly fruity note that envelops the bouquet with its lush, almost heady presence. The Tuscan violet offers a soft, powdery sweetness, blending beautifully with the delicate, fresh orange blossom from Tunisia. The orange blossom, with its sweet, almost honey-like fragrance, adds a sparkling floral freshness that lightens and elevates the entire composition.

In the drydown, the base notes reveal the true warmth and complexity of Alambic, with Java vetiver, Sumatran patchouli, Tyrolean oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Tibetan musk, Mexican vanilla, and Maltese labdanum creating a deep, enveloping richness. The Java vetiver, sourced from Indonesia, contributes a dry, earthy, and smoky nuance, while Sumatran patchouli offers a rich, woody sweetness with an exotic depth that evokes the lush jungles of Southeast Asia. 

The Tyrolean oakmoss, hailing from the high alpine regions of Austria, adds a grounding, slightly damp earthiness that is both soothing and complex, reminiscent of ancient forests after rainfall. The Mysore sandalwood, a rare and revered wood from India, provides a creamy, soft, and balsamic undertone that blends harmoniously with the other elements, giving the fragrance a velvety warmth. 

Ambergris, the prized substance derived from sperm whales, adds a musky, salty complexity that subtly enhances the fragrance’s depth, while Tibetan musk introduces a rich, animalic warmth, creating an almost palpable sense of sensuality. The Mexican vanilla, with its rich, sweet, and creamy profile, envelops the fragrance in a comforting smoothness, while Maltese labdanum brings a resinous, leathery sweetness, which deepens the overall scent with its mysterious, almost incense-like quality.

As a whole, Alambic by Perfumes Jacques Heim is a fragrance of contrasts—bright citrus and green bitterness against deep, velvety florals and rich, earthy base notes. This perfume is both sophisticated and inviting, creating an aura of timeless elegance and mysterious allure, especially recommended for brunettes who may appreciate its depth and complexity. The carefully curated ingredients from all around the world give this scent a unique, global warmth, making it feel both luxurious and intimate.

 

Bottles:

The luxury edition of the perfume was contained inside of a fragile, blown glass bottle with a long neck and bulbous base. It is fitted with a stopper molded in the shape of a flame. The bottle was housed in a luxurious double door presentation box lined with ivory satin. The bottle rests inside the base of the box while a gilded brass armature fixed to the base and back of the box securely holds the bottle upright.

The blown glass bottle with its long neck and bulbous base evokes a sense of craftsmanship and delicacy, suggesting a piece of art in itself. The stopper molded in the shape of a flame adds a touch of symbolism and sophistication, perhaps hinting at the fiery allure of the fragrance within.

The opulent presentation box, with its double doors and ivory satin lining, enhances the sense of luxury and refinement. The choice of ivory satin suggests a soft and luxurious texture, complementing the delicacy of the perfume bottle. Placing the bottle within the base of the box not only protects it but also showcases it as a prized possession.

The gilded brass armature holding the bottle upright further elevates the presentation, adding a touch of grandeur and stability. Overall, the packaging and presentation of the luxury edition of "Alambic" contribute to the overall experience of indulgence and sophistication associated with the fragrance.

A less expensive version used for Alambic was a bottle of colorless pressed glass with rectangular section, square body, its heart-shaped gold paper label affixed on one side, topped with its square stopper in midnight blue glass with intaglio decoration of a fox's head (logo of the fashion house), presented in its titled white and gold cardboard box. Logo designed by Sonia Delaunay, model produced by Verrerie Brosse. Below is a photo of my bottle from my etsy listing which I used to sample the perfume.

The less expensive version of "Alambic" also had its own charm and style, albeit with more economical materials and packaging compared to the luxury edition. The colorless pressed glass bottle with a rectangular section and a square body suggests simplicity and functionality, yet it still maintains an elegant appearance.

The heart-shaped gold paper label affixed to one side adds a touch of vintage allure and sophistication, while also providing branding and information about the fragrance. The square stopper in midnight blue glass with intaglio decoration of a fox's head, the logo of the fashion house, adds a distinctive and stylish element to the bottle, tying it back to the brand's identity.

The presentation in the titled white and gold cardboard box adds a layer of protection and a sense of occasion to the purchase, making it suitable for gifting or personal use. The logo designed by Sonia Delaunay and the model produced by Verrerie Brosse indicate a collaboration of artistic minds and skilled craftsmanship, adding to the overall appeal of the product.

It's fascinating how even the more affordable version of "Alambic" maintains a sense of style and luxury through thoughtful design elements and branding.

Fate of the fragrance:

"Alambic" has been discontinued. It's not uncommon for fragrances, especially those from earlier decades, to eventually be discontinued due to changing trends, ingredients availability, or corporate decisions. Unfortunately, determining the exact date of discontinuation for a fragrance like "Alambic" can be challenging, especially if there isn't extensive documentation available.

In many cases, discontinued fragrances become sought after by collectors and enthusiasts, adding to their allure and mystique. While the official production may have ceased, the memories and experiences associated with these fragrances often live on through vintage bottles, nostalgic recollections, and occasionally, limited re-releases or reformulations.

If "Alambic" holds a special place in your heart, cherish the memories it evokes and perhaps explore other fragrances that share similar characteristics or notes. Additionally, vintage perfume enthusiasts and online communities might provide valuable insights and opportunities to connect with others who appreciate these discontinued gems.