Antique French Cut Crystal and 950 Sterling Guilloche Toilette Set

Antique toiletry sets from the late Victorian era and into the Edwardian era are fascinating pieces of history. They offer a glimpse into the grooming rituals and aesthetics of the time, showcasing the craftsmanship and decorative styles popular during that period. In this article, I am sharing with you a lovely set from my personal collection.

A complete set with a cologne bottle, perfume bottle, powder box, and hairbrush would have been a luxurious and elegant addition to any dressing table or vanity. Each piece would have served both functional and decorative purposes, contributing to the overall ambiance of the dressing area.

It's fascinating to imagine how such a set would have been used and displayed in a Victorian or Edwardian home, perhaps accompanied by other decorative items and personal accessories. These sets often reflect the refined tastes and social customs of the era, making them cherished collectibles for enthusiasts and historians alike.

The bottles and the powder box are made up of heavy, clear cut leaded crystal, cut from top to bottom in a ribbed pattern so that when the light catches the facets, they sparkle beautifully. The rounded bases are cut flat and fire polished so that they will sit correctly on a dressing table. The bottles are fitted with a crystal inner stopper with notched edges for grip. The inner stopper helps seal the bottle so that it will not spill when traveling. It also keeps the costly perfume from evaporating.

The collar of the bottles are solid 950 silver which looks elegant in my opinion. The over caps for the bottles, the lid for the powder jar and the brush are also made up of solid 950 silver and are engine turned with a guilloche pattern on the top. Guilloche refers to a pattern etched into a metal surface by means of engine-turning with a lathe-like machine called a "tours à guilloché." A circle in the center of the pieces was meant for a monogram, but they have not been monogrammed. 

The smaller bottle stands 4" tall with stopper in place x 2.25" diameter. Based on the size, it was used to hold perfume (parfum). The larger bottle stands 5.25" tall with stopper in place x 3.25" diameter. Based on the generous size, it was used to hold eau de cologne or eau de toilette, which were meant to be used liberally all over the body.

The collars and caps of the bottles, the hair brush and the lid for the powder jar are all stamped with the "Minerva head" assay mark used in France accompanied with the number one at the forehead. This number indicates this is the finest grade of silver used in France, which was 950, higher silver content than sterling silver which is 925. French silver marks are usually very small and hard to read due to being partially worn from polishing or wear over time. 

The French assay mark for solid silver, the head of the Roman goddess Minerva in profile, has been used since 1838. The mark is used to denote the standard of a piece of French silver. There are two variants of the mark, one for 800 grade (80%) silver and one for 950 (95%) silver. The higher standard is 950 parts per thousand, or 95% silver, and is referred to as 1st Standard. The French refer to it as "Minerve 1st. Titre" or "argent massif." Pieces with Minerva marks bearing the number one (near the forehead) are of .950 quality and are often considered "sterling" even with the higher silver content.

The manufacturer's punch mark is also stamped on the collars, brush, lid and caps. This diamond shaped lozenge is what French silversmiths used to mark their silver. Normally a combination of initials and a symbol are used. In this case, the diamond shaped lozenge has the letters "SF" with an anchor in between the letters. This was the mark used by Saglier Frères when used on silver, not silverplate. The mark was entered in 1897, 12 rue d’Enghien, Paris.

To see these items and more photos, you can view them and other treasures in my etsy shop, TresorsduBoudoir.

Do you collect toilette sets?