Balestra by Renato Balestra c1978

Renato Balestra, an Italian fashion designer renowned for his sophisticated couture, was known for his elegant, dramatic designs that blended timeless Italian craftsmanship with modern flair. By 1978, when Balestra was launched, his name was synonymous with luxury, refinement, and high fashion. Choosing to name the perfume after himself, Balestra, likely emphasized a personal connection to his creative identity. The word "Balestra" comes from Italian, meaning "crossbow," which is pronounced bah-LEH-strah. The name evokes precision, strength, and a sense of direction, much like the elegant, defined lines that characterized his couture collections. Women who wore the fragrance may have imagined themselves embodying these qualities—graceful yet powerful, poised yet daring.

The name "Balestra" also suggests imagery of movement and swiftness, bringing to mind a confident woman aiming for her ambitions with precision and elegance. In the late 1970s, women were asserting themselves more prominently in various spheres of life, and a fragrance called "Balestra" would have appealed to those who saw themselves as dynamic and modern, yet still feminine. The name might have conjured feelings of empowerment, as well as a deep connection to Italian artistry and heritage.

In scent, "Balestra" could be interpreted as embodying this balance of strength and femininity. Classified as a fresh floral fragrance, it opens with a bright aldehydic top, which adds a sparkling, slightly metallic crispness, like a clean, fresh breeze. This aldehydic layer is softened by green and fruity notes, suggesting the ripe sweetness of orchards in spring, perhaps evoking images of a verdant Italian countryside under a bright sky. There’s a sense of freshness, energy, and vitality in this introduction—an invitation to embrace the day with confidence.

As the fragrance evolves, a spicy floral heart reveals itself. The warmth of spices subtly accentuates a bouquet of florals, reminiscent of a sophisticated Italian garden. This floral heart, combining classic notes like rose, jasmine, and perhaps a touch of carnation, is where the scent’s femininity shines through. The florals are vibrant and rich, but the spices prevent them from being too soft, adding depth and complexity. The wearer might imagine herself as a woman of refined taste, surrounded by blooms, yet with an edge of intrigue and mystery—perfectly in line with the bold yet graceful image that Balestra's fashion conveyed.

The base of the perfume settles into a sensual, powdery softness, lingering long after the more vivacious top and heart notes fade. Musk and perhaps amber add warmth and depth, while the powdery elements hint at classic femininity, sophistication, and timeless elegance. It is this powdery finish that ties the perfume to the period’s trend of long-lasting, sensual dry downs, leaving a soft, lingering impression on the skin.

Balestra was launched at a time when bold, statement fragrances were in vogue. The late 1970s saw the rise of strong, sophisticated scents that mirrored the fashion world’s embrace of more opulent, dramatic styles. Perfumes like Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium and Estée Lauder’s Cinnabar exemplified the era’s fascination with exoticism, power, and sensuality. However, Balestra, while following this trend, stood apart with its fresher floral take, blending Italian elegance with the era's demand for strong, memorable fragrances. It struck a balance between the bold, powerful scents of the late ‘70s and a more approachable, feminine allure, making it both unique and aligned with contemporary trends.

Women of the time would have related to Balestra as a fragrance that mirrored their evolving roles in society—empowered yet feminine, assertive yet graceful. It offered a way to express both their sophistication and their individuality, much like the striking yet elegant designs Renato Balestra was known for. The perfume, with its fresh floral composition, would have appealed to women seeking a versatile scent that was both timeless and modern, bold yet beautifully refined.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women. It starts with an aldehydic, green, fruity top note, followed by a spicy floral heart, resting on a sensual, powdery base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, hyacinth, citrus oils, peach, raspberry, lemon
• Middle notes: clove bud, jasmine, rose, iris, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, orchid
• Base notes: sandalwood, cedar, musk, civet, oakmoss

Scent Profile:

As Balestra opens, the sharp brilliance of aldehydes hits my senses first. There’s an almost metallic sparkle to it, like the crispness of freshly ironed linen or the clean sharpness of cool air after a thunderstorm. The aldehydes add a light, airy brightness to the top, setting the tone for what feels like an invigorating and elegant experience.

Next, the freshness of green hyacinth emerges, soft yet vibrant. The delicate floral note conjures images of lush spring gardens, with the hyacinth’s crisp green leaves and soft petals releasing a gentle sweetness. It’s a natural, almost aquatic scent, moist and cooling, like morning dew on blooming flowers.

In contrast, the burst of citrus oils—lemon and perhaps a hint of bergamot—adds a zesty sharpness. The lemon is bright and tangy, immediately lifting the fragrance into something lively and fresh, while the oiliness of the citrus peel grounds the scent, making it smooth and slightly bitter beneath the sweetness. Peach and raspberry follow with a soft, fruity sweetness. The peach is warm and velvety, reminiscent of the soft fuzz of its skin and the juicy ripeness of the fruit. The raspberry is tart and slightly more playful, introducing a mouthwatering, tangy contrast to the creamy peach. Together, these fruity elements create a sense of youthful exuberance, like the taste of sun-kissed fruit on a warm day.

As the fragrance begins to unfold, the heart notes bloom with a lush, floral intensity. The spiciness of clove bud adds an unexpected warmth, grounding the florals with its rich, slightly peppery sweetness. It’s as though a warm breeze has swept through the garden, carrying with it a hint of exotic spice. This spiciness accentuates the creamy, sensual allure of jasmine—a heady floral note that envelops the senses with its opulence. The jasmine feels almost narcotic in its intensity, mingling with the warmth of the clove to create a deeply seductive accord.

Rose emerges next, soft and powdery, but also rich and velvety. This isn’t a fleeting, light rose—it’s deep and full-bodied, the kind you can almost feel with its dense petals and timeless beauty. Alongside it, the delicate and powdery scent of iris lends a soft elegance, its cool, earthy quality tempering the richness of the other florals. There’s a quiet luxury in the iris, like the smoothness of silk under the fingertips.

Ylang ylang brings an exotic, creamy sweetness to the floral bouquet, almost buttery in its intensity. Its tropical warmth mingles effortlessly with the more delicate notes of lily of the valley, which adds a clean, green floral note—light and uplifting like a gentle spring breeze. Finally, the orchid adds a mysterious depth, a floral that is both soft and elusive, with a powdery elegance that hints at something rare and refined.

As the fragrance dries down, the base notes settle in with a comforting warmth. The rich, creamy scent of sandalwood takes center stage, smooth and grounding, with its slightly sweet, woody aroma. It’s like the scent of sun-warmed wood, giving the fragrance a soft, enveloping warmth. The cedar adds a sharper, more resinous woodiness, grounding the floral heart with its dry, almost pencil-shavings-like quality.

Then comes the sensuality of musk, soft and animalistic, blending seamlessly with the velvety richness of civet. The civet adds an earthy, slightly dirty warmth that feels intimate and skin-like, enhancing the seductive quality of the fragrance. Oakmoss completes the composition with its damp, earthy depth, evoking the scent of a forest floor after rain. Its mossy, slightly smoky scent ties the entire fragrance together, adding a vintage, chypre-like elegance to the final dry down.

Together, these base notes create a lingering, powdery warmth that clings to the skin, wrapping the wearer in an aura of sensuality and timeless grace. Balestra is an intricate dance of freshness, spice, florals, and woods, all perfectly balanced to create a fragrance that feels both bold and comforting, playful and sophisticated—just like the women who wear it.

Bottle:

Presented in a flared bottle with a ‘drop’ red stopper designed by Sinthesi.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

CLICK HERE TO FIND BALESTRA PERFUME BY RENATO BALESTRA ON EBAY