Balestra by Renato Balestra c1978

Renato Balestra, an Italian fashion designer renowned for his sophisticated couture, was known for his elegant, dramatic designs that blended timeless Italian craftsmanship with modern flair. By 1978, when Balestra was launched, his name was synonymous with luxury, refinement, and high fashion. Choosing to name the perfume after himself, Balestra, likely emphasized a personal connection to his creative identity. The word "Balestra" comes from Italian, meaning "crossbow," which is pronounced bah-LEH-strah. The name evokes precision, strength, and a sense of direction, much like the elegant, defined lines that characterized his couture collections. Women who wore the fragrance may have imagined themselves embodying these qualities—graceful yet powerful, poised yet daring.

The name "Balestra" also suggests imagery of movement and swiftness, bringing to mind a confident woman aiming for her ambitions with precision and elegance. In the late 1970s, women were asserting themselves more prominently in various spheres of life, and a fragrance called "Balestra" would have appealed to those who saw themselves as dynamic and modern, yet still feminine. The name might have conjured feelings of empowerment, as well as a deep connection to Italian artistry and heritage.

In scent, "Balestra" could be interpreted as embodying this balance of strength and femininity. Classified as a fresh floral fragrance, it opens with a bright aldehydic top, which adds a sparkling, slightly metallic crispness, like a clean, fresh breeze. This aldehydic layer is softened by green and fruity notes, suggesting the ripe sweetness of orchards in spring, perhaps evoking images of a verdant Italian countryside under a bright sky. There’s a sense of freshness, energy, and vitality in this introduction—an invitation to embrace the day with confidence.

As the fragrance evolves, a spicy floral heart reveals itself. The warmth of spices subtly accentuates a bouquet of florals, reminiscent of a sophisticated Italian garden. This floral heart, combining classic notes like rose, jasmine, and perhaps a touch of carnation, is where the scent’s femininity shines through. The florals are vibrant and rich, but the spices prevent them from being too soft, adding depth and complexity. The wearer might imagine herself as a woman of refined taste, surrounded by blooms, yet with an edge of intrigue and mystery—perfectly in line with the bold yet graceful image that Balestra's fashion conveyed.

The base of the perfume settles into a sensual, powdery softness, lingering long after the more vivacious top and heart notes fade. Musk and perhaps amber add warmth and depth, while the powdery elements hint at classic femininity, sophistication, and timeless elegance. It is this powdery finish that ties the perfume to the period’s trend of long-lasting, sensual dry downs, leaving a soft, lingering impression on the skin.

Balestra was launched at a time when bold, statement fragrances were in vogue. The late 1970s saw the rise of strong, sophisticated scents that mirrored the fashion world’s embrace of more opulent, dramatic styles. Perfumes like Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium and Estée Lauder’s Cinnabar exemplified the era’s fascination with exoticism, power, and sensuality. However, Balestra, while following this trend, stood apart with its fresher floral take, blending Italian elegance with the era's demand for strong, memorable fragrances. It struck a balance between the bold, powerful scents of the late ‘70s and a more approachable, feminine allure, making it both unique and aligned with contemporary trends.

Women of the time would have related to Balestra as a fragrance that mirrored their evolving roles in society—empowered yet feminine, assertive yet graceful. It offered a way to express both their sophistication and their individuality, much like the striking yet elegant designs Renato Balestra was known for. The perfume, with its fresh floral composition, would have appealed to women seeking a versatile scent that was both timeless and modern, bold yet beautifully refined.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women. It starts with an aldehydic, green, fruity top note, followed by a spicy floral heart, resting on a sensual, powdery base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Dutch hyacinth, Italian citrus oils, Georgian peach, raspberry, Sicilian lemon
• Middle notes: Zanzibar clove bud, Egyptian jasmine, Grasse rose, Florentine iris, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Alpine lily of the valley, Madagascan orchid
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Virginian cedar, Tibetan musk, Ethiopian civet, Yugoslavian oakmoss

Scent Profile:

Balestra by Renato Balestra is a luminous tapestry of contrasts, where freshness and sensuality intertwine with effortless elegance. The fragrance opens with a shimmering burst of aldehydes—effervescent and airy, like the first breath of crisp morning air, tinged with an almost metallic sparkle. This bright radiance quickly gives way to the dewy green sweetness of Dutch hyacinth, its scent a lush, watery floral with an undercurrent of fresh-cut stems. The hyacinths cultivated in the Netherlands are among the most fragrant, their cool, waxy petals exuding a green-floral richness that feels both tender and invigorating.

A juicy cascade of Italian citrus oils soon unfolds—Sicilian lemon leads the way with its mouthwatering brightness, its sunny zest sharpened by the mineral-rich volcanic soil of the Mediterranean. The citrus is softened by the round, golden sweetness of Georgian peach, its flesh ripened by the warm sun, dripping with honeyed nectar, while raspberry adds a tart, slightly jammy nuance, its juicy ripeness lending a playful fruitiness to the opening.

As the fragrance develops, a heart of floral opulence begins to bloom, layered with the sensual warmth of spice. Zanzibar clove bud emerges first, its dark, spicy intensity lending a touch of exotic depth. Unlike the harsher dried clove, the fresh buds retain a slight floral quality, their rich, balsamic warmth wrapping around the composition like a velvet ribbon. Egyptian jasmine, lush and radiant, unfolds next—its narcotic white petals exude an intoxicating sweetness, intensified by the heat of the Nile. This jasmine is richer, deeper, more voluptuous than its other counterparts, its honeyed facets blending seamlessly with the legendary Grasse rose. The rose, cultivated in the perfume capital of France, is velvety and multifaceted, balancing soft sweetness with a delicate hint of spice.

Florentine iris weaves through the composition like a whisper of powdered silk, its cool, buttery elegance imparting an almost tactile softness. This rare iris root, aged for years to develop its prized aroma, carries a subtle earthiness beneath its violet-like floralcy. Nossi-Be ylang ylang, harvested from the exotic island off the coast of Madagascar, offers a creamy, banana-like sweetness, its narcotic warmth deepened by Madagascan orchid—a note that feels simultaneously airy and decadent, its floralcy draped in mystery. Alpine lily of the valley lifts the bouquet with its delicate bell-like freshness, a whisper of springtime purity against the richer, more voluptuous florals.

As the fragrance settles, the base unveils its sensual, powdery embrace, each note lingering with a soft, skin-like warmth. Mysore sandalwood, the most coveted variety, exudes a creamy, golden richness, its smooth, almost milky woodiness melting into the composition like liquid warmth. Virginian cedar adds a dry, clean counterpoint, its crisp, pencil-shaving sharpness grounding the softer elements. Yugoslavian oakmoss contributes an earthy, forest-floor dampness, its deep green shadows adding a touch of vintage elegance.

Then comes the animalic sensuality—the primal hum of Tibetan musk, warm and slightly sweet, its skin-like quality enhancing the fragrance’s intimate nature. Ethiopian civet, the final whisper of decadence, adds a sultry depth, its rich, leathery-animalic tones blending seamlessly with the musky woods. Together, they create a lasting impression of warmth and refinement, as if the fragrance has melted into the skin itself, leaving behind a memory of whispered elegance and sensuality.

Balestra is a fragrance of contrasts—fresh and floral yet warm and powdery, luminous yet deeply sensual. It unfolds like a luxurious silk gown, its shimmering aldehydic top notes cascading into the rich folds of spice and florals, before resting on a base of exquisite softness, a scent that lingers long after the wearer has passed.

Bottle:

Presented in a flared bottle with a ‘drop’ red stopper designed by Sinthesi.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

CLICK HERE TO FIND BALESTRA PERFUME BY RENATO BALESTRA ON EBAY