During the Edwardian era, garden parties reigned as the epitome of social gatherings among the elite. These events, steeped in tradition and elegance, provided the perfect backdrop for showcasing the latest floral marvels, including the coveted Jacqueminot rose. As guests mingled amidst the lush blooms, sipping on cool drinks, and indulging in dainty treats served al fresco, the successful blooming of the Jacqueminot rose stood as a testament to the host's horticultural prowess and status within polite society.
In the picturesque settings of these lively garden parties, elegant women adorned themselves in ethereal white lawn dresses, known as lingerie dresses, evoking a sense of timeless grace and sophistication. Their ensembles were complemented by large wide-brimmed picture hats, adorned with whimsical accents such as stuffed birds and blooming flowers, anchored in place by long, fancy hat pins.
As they chatted away amidst the fragrant blooms, these women may have held delicate hand-painted porcelain cups in one hand, savoring the refreshing taste of sweet iced tea or lemonade, while using a fancy hand fan in the other to cool off from the summer heat. Their attire was completed with pristine white gloves, adding a touch of refinement to their ensemble.
The tables were adorned with lace tablecloths, polished silver flatware, and sparkling crystal lemonade pitchers, creating an atmosphere of opulence and elegance. Amidst this scene of sophistication, the delicate aroma of the Jacqueminot rose lingered in the air, adding a layer of romantic allure to the festivities. With every breath, guests were transported to a realm of timeless beauty and refined luxury, where the essence of the rose intertwined seamlessly with the splendor of the garden party.
La Rose Jacqueminot, with its rich, floral scent, would have been well-received in this context. Named after the highly fragrant breed of roses, the perfume evoked a sense of luxury and romance. The association with the Napoleonic era added to its allure, tapping into the nostalgia for a romanticized past.
The popularity of La Rose Jacqueminot perfume mirrored the fascination with the Jacqueminot rose, capturing the essence of its exquisite fragrance and timeless beauty. Just as guests reveled in the splendor of the flowering garden at these garden parties, so too did wearers of the perfume immerse themselves in the allure of its romantic aroma, evoking images of sun-drenched garden paths and vibrant blossoms in full bloom.
Against the backdrop of these esteemed gatherings, where society loosened its reins and embraced the joys of nature and camaraderie, the Jacqueminot rose emerged as a cherished centerpiece, admired by all who beheld its radiant blooms. Its delicate petals, imbued with the essence of La Rose Jacqueminot, added a touch of elegance and refinement to the festivities, ensuring that these garden parties remained unforgettable affairs, steeped in beauty, grace, and the timeless allure of the rose.
The Beginning:
François Coty's journey to success with La Rose Jacqueminot is a tale of determination, ingenuity, and a touch of theatrical flair. Despite facing initial resistance from department stores, Coty's unwavering belief in his perfume ultimately led to a pivotal moment of triumph.
In a bold attempt to capture the attention of Henri de Villemessant, the director of Le Grands Magasins du Louvre, Coty sought to secure an order for his fragrance. However, when de Villemessant refused to grant him an audience, Coty devised a daring plan to make an unforgettable impression. Returning to the store a few days later, he dramatically flung a Baccarat crystal perfume flacon onto the floor of the cosmetics department, causing it to shatter and releasing the captivating fragrance into the air. The potent aroma instantly intrigued and captivated everyone present, including de Villemessant, who was compelled to inquire about the perfume that had caused such a commotion. This bold act catapulted Coty into the spotlight and marked the beginning of his illustrious career in the world of perfumery.
Rumors suggest that Coty may have employed additional tactics to generate buzz around his perfume, including hiring women to feign frenzied curiosity about the fragrance. Furthermore, Coty's connection to the department store through his mother-in-law likely played a role in facilitating his breakthrough, showcasing the importance of personal connections in the business world.
Following the successful demonstration at Le Louvre, Coty swiftly secured an order for La Rose Jacqueminot, which he and his wife, Yvonne, diligently fulfilled overnight in their modest apartment-turned-perfume factory. Yvonne, drawing on her skills as a milliner, meticulously crafted silk perfume pouches to accompany the bottles, adding an extra touch of elegance and allure. Employing a technique known as baudruchage, she adorned the bottles with gold string and binding, enhancing their visual appeal and further captivating customers.
The response to La Rose Jacqueminot was nothing short of extraordinary, with Le Louvre alone ordering a significant quantity of bottles. Within days, demand for the perfume soared, with 500 bottles sold in a remarkably short span of time. This remarkable success marked just the beginning of Coty's illustrious career and cemented La Rose Jacqueminot as a timeless classic in the world of perfumery.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
- Top notes: aldehydes, Chinese tea rose, Bulgarian rose, Grasse jacqueminot rose, green accord
- Middle notes: Grasse jasmine, Dutch cabbage rose (rosa centifolia), Turkish damask rose, Tuscan violet, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, Provencal honey, Tunisian orange blossom, French lavender, Zanzibar cloves, Jamaican nutmeg, Ceylon cardamom
- Base notes: Tyrolean oakmoss, ambergris, Tibetan musk, Mysore sandalwood, Virginian tobacco
In the early stages of crafting La Rose Jacqueminot, François Coty seized a unique opportunity when he acquired a substantial stock of rose essence from Alber Camili, a renowned essential oil manufacturer. This serendipitous acquisition came about as a result of Alber Camili's unfortunate bankruptcy, which led to the liquidation of their inventory at remarkably affordable prices. Coty, recognizing the potential of this treasure trove of rose essence made more accessible by the company's financial turmoil, wasted no time in purchasing vast quantities in bulk.
At the heart of La Rose Jacqueminot's formulation lies the exquisite Alber Camili rose absolute, a precious essence renowned for its rich and captivating fragrance. This essence, obtained from the delicate petals of the rose, served as the cornerstone of the perfume's olfactory profile, infusing it with an unparalleled depth and complexity. Coty, leveraging the abundance of this prized ingredient, sought to create a fragrance that would showcase the sheer opulence and allure of the rose in all its splendor.
François Coty meticulously composed La Rose Jacqueminot into a warm floral perfume that drew upon the precious attars of various cabbage roses. He focused on the rich and aromatic "Jacqueminot," the lush "Paul Neyron," and the iconic "American Beauty" varieties. These roses, celebrated for their robust and captivating scents, formed the heart of Coty's creation, infusing the perfume with a depth and complexity that mirrored the elegance of the Edwardian era's most exquisite garden parties.
To complement the sublime essence of the Alber Camili rose, Coty incorporated two key bases into the fragrance's composition: Rhodinol and Ionone. Rhodinol, a product manufactured by Rhone-Poulenc, represented a masterful blend of the primary constituents found in both rose and geranium oil. This innovative base not only enhanced the floral bouquet of the perfume but also imparted a distinctive freshness and vibrancy to its overall character.
In addition to Rhodinol, Coty integrated Ionone, a synthetic violet chemical crafted by De Laire, into the fragrance formula. Ionone, originating from a groundbreaking discovery made by Tiemann and Kruger in 1898, offered a captivating floral note reminiscent of delicate violets in bloom. Its inclusion in La Rose Jacqueminot added a subtle yet enchanting layer to the perfume, contributing to its multifaceted aroma and ensuring a truly unforgettable olfactory experience.
Through skillful utilization of these exquisite ingredients, François Coty succeeded in crafting a fragrance that transcended mere scent, capturing the essence of romance, luxury, and timeless elegance. La Rose Jacqueminot, with its opulent blend of rose absolute, Rhodinol, and Ionone, emerged as a masterpiece of perfumery, captivating the senses and leaving an indelible impression on all who encountered its enchanting aroma.
Scent Profile:
La Rose Jacqueminot by Coty is a fragrance of unparalleled romance, a floral symphony where roses in their many forms take center stage, each note unfolding like petals kissed by dawn’s light. It opens with a shimmering veil of aldehydes—effervescent and luminous, like the first breath of air in a sun-drenched rose garden. Their crispness accentuates the dewy freshness of the Chinese tea rose, a delicate, almost translucent variety known for its airy, green-tinged floralcy.
This ethereal introduction gives way to the richer, honeyed depth of Bulgarian rose, grown in the legendary Valley of Roses, where its petals are harvested at dawn to preserve their intoxicating aroma. The rare Grasse Jacqueminot rose, the very soul of this perfume, unfolds with velvety softness, its scent deep and wine-like, reminiscent of crushed petals and the warm earth from which it blooms. A whisper of green accords lends an impression of trailing vines and crushed leaves, evoking a freshly gathered bouquet still damp with morning mist.
The heart of La Rose Jacqueminot reveals an opulent floral tapestry, where the essence of roses is further enriched by the presence of other sumptuous blooms. Grasse jasmine, its creamy, indolic glow both innocent and sensual, intertwines with Dutch cabbage rose, or Rosa Centifolia, known for its densely packed petals and heady, old-world sweetness.
Turkish damask rose, the most regal of them all, emerges with a deep, resinous undertone, its scent richer and more complex than its European counterparts, embodying centuries of perfumery tradition from the Ottoman gardens. Tuscan violet lends a powdery softness, a whisper of Parma’s violet fields under the Italian sun, gently smoothing the edges of the heady florals. Nossi-Be ylang-ylang, grown on the exotic shores of Madagascar, introduces a languid, almost narcotic creaminess, its scent oscillating between banana, spice, and deep, humid florals.
The floral heart is gilded with golden Provencal honey, its nectarous warmth weaving through the blossoms, adding a soft, sunlit sweetness. Tunisian orange blossom, more radiant and slightly animalic than its Mediterranean cousins, shimmers within the composition, its luminous, white floral glow accentuating the headier elements.
French lavender, cultivated in the highlands of Provence, lends a soft, herbal sharpness, cooling the richer florals with its silvery, slightly camphorous clarity. A trio of exotic spices—Zanzibar clove, fiery and aromatic; Jamaican nutmeg, warm and slightly creamy; and Ceylon cardamom, citrusy and resinous—add a flickering, spiced heat, an echo of ancient trade routes and perfumed bazaars.
As La Rose Jacqueminot deepens, the base envelops the florals in a sensual embrace of woods, musks, and resins. Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the alpine forests of Austria, imparts a damp, earthy richness, its deep green, velvety quality grounding the perfume with an unmistakable chypre elegance. Ambergris, a whisper of the ocean’s mystery, lends a warm, salty-skin facet, its elusive, animalic depth enhancing the natural muskiness of the roses.
Tibetan musk, rare and primal, introduces a shadowy sensuality, its deep, almost smoky warmth resonating with the creamy, sacred richness of Mysore sandalwood, revered for its unparalleled smoothness. Virginian tobacco, dry and golden, emerges in the final moments, its smoky, honeyed undertones curling around the fragrance like a memory of perfumed letters and faded roses pressed between the pages of an old book.
La Rose Jacqueminot is an ode to the eternal romance of roses, a fragrance that is both delicate and powerful, luminous and shadowed. It is a portrait of a bygone era, painted in the richest hues of crimson and gold, where roses bloom endlessly, their scent lingering like an exquisite, whispered promise.
Personal Perfumes:
The 1920s and 1930s marked an era of intriguing marketing strategies within the perfume industry, where perfumers tailored their fragrances to suit different complexion types, hair colors, personalities, and moods. These tactics aimed to create a personal connection between women and their chosen scents, tapping into the desire for individuality and self-expression.
For blondes, perfumers recommended light, delicate fragrances such as Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or. These scents were thought to complement the ethereal beauty and sunny disposition often associated with blonde hair.
On the other hand, brunettes were advised to embrace heavier, more opulent Oriental perfumes like L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx. These fragrances were believed to enhance the richness and depth of brunette hair and the mysterious allure often associated with darker features.
Red-haired women were encouraged to opt for fragrances that complemented their fiery personalities and unique charm. Scents like Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen were recommended to accentuate the vibrant and distinctive nature of red hair.
Alternatively, some perfumers suggested that women choose their perfumes based on their personalities or moods rather than their physical attributes. For those of a sunny and joyous disposition, fragrances like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were recommended, while those with dreamy and elusive personalities might prefer Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc.
Exotic types were directed towards fragrances like Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, which evoked a sense of adventure and intrigue. Mysterious personalities were encouraged to explore scents such as Styx, Cyclamen, and Ambre Antique, which added an air of enigma and allure.
For those with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments, fragrances like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan were suggested, exuding elegance and refinement.
These marketing techniques successfully appealed to consumers, leading to the purchase of thousands of perfume bottles, whether as personal indulgences or thoughtful gifts for others. They tapped into the desire for individuality and self-expression, offering women the opportunity to choose fragrances that resonated with their unique identities and moods.
Coty’s La Rose Jacqueminot, launched in 1904, stands as one of the most iconic rose perfumes in history, celebrated for its luxurious interpretation of the American Beauty rose. Early advertisements highlight both the fragrance's exclusivity and its evocative nature. A 1907 ad described it as "an exquisite pure odor of the American Beauty Rose," presented in elegant 1-ounce cut glass bottles accompanied by a miniature satin sachet for $3.00—a sum that reflected its premium positioning during the era.
By 1925, La Rose Jacqueminot had been elevated to poetic heights. An ad in The Times Herald likened it to the essence of Provence and the romantic allure of troubadours, masquers, and tantalizing mazes. It painted the fragrance as a reflection of a lively coquette, a woman of "delicious impudence," with "honey-colored hair" and "a laughing imp in her eyes." This evocative language tied the scent to an image of flirtation, intrigue, and carefree elegance. In another 1925 ad, Coty positioned the fragrance as especially suited for blondes, alongside L'Effleurt and L'Or, highlighting its appeal to a distinct clientele and romanticizing its connection to femininity.
The mystique of La Rose Jacqueminot continued into 1926, where it was praised as "glamorous, lovely, the perfect perfume of the rose." The rose, described as the "flower of love and true symbol of adorable women," reinforced the fragrance's association with passion, romance, and timeless femininity.
By 1937, the focus shifted to domestic warmth and subtlety. An ad in Marie-Claire characterized La Rose Jacqueminot as "warm and discreet," appealing to a woman devoted to her home, her husband, and her children. The accompanying quote from poet Leon-Paul Fargue—"She knows how to make 'a bouquet, a hem, a stew'"—suggests a connection between the fragrance and the art of creating beauty and comfort in everyday life.
In 1954, Combat celebrated the fragrance's sensory complexity, tying it to the vitality of the rose itself. The red Jacqueminot rose was described as "vigorous, fervent, prosperous," embodying the richness of summer and the triumphant joy of a nightingale's song. The ad painted a vivid image of the scent's ideal wearer—a young woman adorned in sparkling tulle, illuminated by moonlight—a vision both romantic and ethereal.
Through its decades of advertising, Coty’s La Rose Jacqueminot transformed from a luxurious rose scent to an enduring symbol of elegance, adaptability, and feminine allure, resonating with women across generations.
Bottles:
Baccarat played a pivotal role in the early production of La Rose Jacqueminot, supplying the large containers and eventually crafting thousands of the iconic slim, classic bottles that are now synonymous with the scent. As the fragrance gained popularity, it found a new home in elegant bottles designed by the renowned Rene Lalique. The transition from Baccarat to Lalique bottles marked a shift towards even greater sophistication and refinement.
In the early days, the labels for La Rose Jacqueminot were meticulously designed and engraved by Yvonne's brothers Henri and Paul, along with their uncle, Alphee. However, as Lalique's bottles became the preferred choice, newer labels were created by Lalique himself to adorn his exquisite creations. After 1920, Coty established his own glassworks in Pantin to produce the bottles, ensuring complete control over the quality and design. These flacons were then complemented with presentation cases crafted at Coty's boxing factory in Neuilly, further enhancing the luxurious appeal of the fragrance.
Following the initial success of La Rose Jacqueminot, Coty embarked on a larger production run with the acquisition of Laloue factory inventory from Grasse. This expansion was made possible through the support of Frederick Firmenich, who supplied Coty with ingredients on credit, facilitating the creation of this beloved perfume on a larger scale.
The exquisite Baccarat crystal flacon, adorned with a glittering lapidary stopper, remains a rare and cherished artifact of La Rose Jacqueminot's heritage. Available in two sizes, 4 1/2" tall and [size not specified], these bottles serve as timeless symbols of the enduring allure and elegance of this iconic fragrance.
A delightful addition to the La Rose Jacqueminot collection was the creation of a purse-size bottle, elegantly presented in a hinged metal case. Standing at a charming height of 2 3/4 inches, this compact yet luxurious bottle was designed for the woman on the go, allowing her to carry her favorite fragrance with ease and style. The bottle features a stopper molded with intricate flower and ridge details, adding a touch of refinement to its design.
For those seeking a more substantial option for their boudoir, a larger size bottle was also introduced, standing at an impressive 6 inches tall. These grander bottles exuded an air of sophistication and grace, becoming a statement piece in any dressing area or vanity.
Notably, these exquisite bottles were not exclusive to La Rose Jacqueminot alone but were also utilized for other Coty perfumes, further showcasing their versatility and timeless appeal across the brand's fragrance offerings. Whether nestled in a dainty metal case or gracing the vanity with its grand presence, each bottle encapsulated the essence of luxury and elegance, enhancing the overall experience of indulging in the enchanting aroma of La Rose Jacqueminot.
The larger boudoir size is shown below.
Fate of the Fragrance:
La Rose Jacqueminot, despite its enduring popularity stretching into the 1950s, experienced a period of discontinuation before its surprising revival in 1986. Coty's relaunch of this beloved fragrance came as part of The Chateau Collection, a set that also included two other forgotten scents: Chypre and Muse (rechristened as Les Muses).
In this reimagining, the original fragrances were modernized to align with the tastes of the 1986 woman. However, it's worth noting that the full parfum concentrations were not released, as they were deemed "too heady for modern tastes." Instead, the reformulated versions aimed to capture the essence of the originals while catering to contemporary preferences, offering a lighter and more wearable interpretation.
The setting and inspiration for the collection's display and advertising were drawn from the historic Chateau D'Artigny, which held significant significance as the former estate of Coty in France. This choice of setting added an air of sophistication and elegance to the relaunch, evoking the timeless beauty and romance associated with La Rose Jacqueminot and its companions. Through The Chateau Collection, Coty sought to reintroduce these classic fragrances to a new generation of perfume enthusiasts while paying homage to their rich heritage and legacy.
1986 Relaunch:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. Rich, full bodied floral of roses and jasmine, enhanced with warm woody notes of sandalwood and oakmoss.
- Top notes: citrus
- Middle notes: jasmine, roses
- Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood
A wonderful advertisement packed inside the box reads:
“The Chateau Collection - Now Every Woman Can Have a French Accent!
$5.00 for all three, regularly $11.25. La Rose Jacqueminot, Chypre and Les Muses. It’s so easy. All it takes is a little dab of the right fragrance in the right places.
Lesson One: How to Flirt: Fascinate them with La Rose Jacqueminot. Romantic. Captivating. The scent that started it all in Paris in 1905. Wear it and absolutely no man will be able to resist.
Lesson Two: How to Keep Them Guessing: Intrigue them with Chypre. Elegant. Evocative. The scent that has inspired so many imitations. Yet it has gone unrivaled. Its sensuous aura says you’re a woman of style and a bit mysterious too.
Lesson Three: How To Command Attention: Seduce them with Les Muses. Coty’s highly guarded secret. Dramatic. Sensuous. A multifaceted scent that leaves men longing for your attention. Now that you’re fluent in French, its up to you to decided exactly what to say.”
In 2004, to celebrate the firm’s 100th anniversary, Henri Coty, François’s son, commissioned the re-creation of his father’s La Rose Jacqueminot perfume, to be housed inside a French crystal flacon. These were sold in a limited number of just 200 only available to the French Market, and the perfume was reformulated by Daphné Bugey. Bottom of the bottle is marked in raised letters, "Bottle Made In France". This bottle measures 2" tall x 1 1/4" square. Other perfumes in this limited edition set included: Jasmin de Corse, L'Origan, and Emeraude. The perfume set was celebrated with the launch of a book Coty: The Brand of Visionary by Editions Assouline..
The trademark for the name La Rose Jacqueminot was taken out in 2006 by Coty, I hope they decide to relaunch the fragrance.
This is my TOP favorite rose perfume of all. I am very lucky to own two half full bottles from the early 1960s. I grow about 25 rose bushes so I know what rose should smell like. This is the best rose perfume I have encountered yet - and I have quite a few rose perfumes!
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