The perfume "Fantastique" by Parfums D'Orsay was launched in 1952, a period marked by post-World War II recovery and a surge in optimism and creativity. This era saw the emergence of new social norms and cultural shifts as people embraced modernity and sought to leave the hardships of the war behind. The 1950s were characterized by a sense of glamour and sophistication, with the fashion and beauty industries flourishing as women sought to express their newfound freedom and individuality.
The name "Fantastique" translates to "fantastic" in English, conveying a sense of wonder, excellence, and extraordinary qualities. Parfums D'Orsay likely chose this name to encapsulate the spirit of the time, aiming to offer a fragrance that was not only appealing but also evocative of the dreams and aspirations of the era. The term "fantastique" suggests something out of the ordinary, enchanting, and magical, making it a fitting name for a perfume intended to evoke a sense of allure and mystery.
"Fantastique" would be an appropriate name for a perfume as it conveys a sense of extraordinary beauty and captivating charm. In perfumery, the concept of intoxication is often used to describe the effect a fragrance can have on the senses, creating an almost hypnotic allure that draws people in. A perfume named "Fantastique" would aim to intoxicate the wearer and those around her with its enchanting scent, leaving a memorable impression.
The type of women who would relate to a fragrance called "Fantastique" would likely be those who are confident, adventurous, and unafraid to stand out. These women would respond to the perfume with enthusiasm, appreciating its ability to enhance their sense of elegance and sophistication. They would be drawn to the name "Fantastique" because it reflects their desire to experience life in a vibrant and extraordinary way.
The word "Fantastique" evokes images and feelings of magic, wonder, and boundless possibilities. It conjures up visions of glamorous soirées, exotic destinations, and a life filled with excitement and adventure. The scent of "Fantastique" would be designed to transport the wearer to a world of fantasy, where the ordinary becomes extraordinary, and every moment is infused with a touch of magic. This sense of escapism and enchantment would be particularly appealing to women in the 1950s, who were eager to embrace the joys and pleasures of life after the tumultuous war years.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? Fantastique by D'Orsay was classified as an oriental perfume for women with a pungent citrus top note combined with nose tickling aldehydes, followed by soapy white florals, fruity notes and a woody, resinous base.
- Top notes: aldehydes (C10, C11, C12), Sicilian lemon, Californian orange, Calabrian bergamot, Persian galbanum, Turkish fig leaf
- Middle notes: Georgian peach, Spanish apricot, Chilean plum, Zanzibar clove, Russian coriander, Alpine lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, Grasse jasmine and Tunisian orange blossoms
- Base notes: Siamese benzoin, Somalian myrrh, Venezuelan tonka bean, resins, Indonesian macassar wood, Virginian cedar, Gabonese ebony, Haitian vetiver, Yugoslavian oakmoss, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, natural Tibetan musk, synthetic musk, and Seychelles patchouli
Combat, 1955:
"Fantastique (parfum) from D'Orsay - a cool metallic aldehyde bursts from the musky base of this potent scent, naturalizing it in the summer. Of course, there's the classic marriage of rose and jasmine, but also the singular aromas of the sap macerated by the little porphyrogenetic [born into the purple] princesses, which the princes of the North used to seek in Byzantium."
Scent Profile:
Fantastique by D’Orsay unfolds like an opulent dream, an oriental fragrance of striking contrasts—zesty brightness colliding with deep, resinous shadows. It begins with an electric jolt of aldehydes, crisp and effervescent, fizzing like a freshly poured glass of champagne. These aldehydes, spanning the sharp, waxy brilliance of C10 to the airy, citrus-infused lift of C11 and C12, create a sparkling clarity that carries the scent skyward.
Beneath this effervescence, Sicilian lemon slices through the air with its tart, mouthwatering brightness. Grown in volcanic soil beneath the Mediterranean sun, Sicilian lemons possess an unmatched intensity, their oil-packed rinds exuding a vibrant sharpness that dances on the senses. Californian orange follows with a sunnier, juicier sweetness, its softer citrus profile tempering the more astringent lemon. Calabrian bergamot, harvested from the coastal groves of southern Italy, adds a refined, almost floral citrus nuance, its bitter zest imparting a sophisticated elegance.
As the citrus sharpness settles, Persian galbanum emerges—green, resinous, and slightly bitter, its scent reminiscent of crushed leaves and damp earth. This ancient material, once prized in perfumery for its sharp, herbal depth, lends a grounding counterpoint to the citrus burst. Turkish fig leaf introduces an unexpected touch—deeply green, slightly milky, and laced with a subtle fruitiness. Sun-drenched and rich, its scent is reminiscent of fig trees standing beneath the Anatolian sky, their broad leaves releasing a sweet, sappy aroma under the heat.
As the aldehydic brightness softens, the fragrance's heart unfurls in a luscious, golden cascade of fruits and florals. Georgian peach, ripened by the warm Caucasian sun, drapes the senses in velvety sweetness, its nectarous aroma carrying the faintest whisper of almond. Spanish apricot follows, its rich, honeyed flesh adding a deeper, sun-baked warmth, while Chilean plum, dark and luscious, introduces a juicy, slightly tangy bite. Zanzibar clove cuts through the fruit’s lushness with its fiery, spice-laden sting—grown in the humid spice islands off the coast of East Africa, its piquant warmth is rich with the scent of dried petals and smoldering embers. Russian coriander, cooler and greener than its Indian counterpart, brings a crisp, herbal contrast, its slightly citrusy aroma bridging the gap between fruit and spice.
The florals bloom in waves—Alpine lily of the valley, pristine and dewy, lends a cool, soapy purity that contrasts with the richness of Bulgarian rose. The latter, cultivated in the famed Valley of Roses, radiates with velvety depth, its honeyed, slightly spiced petals releasing an intoxicating warmth. Grasse jasmine, grown in the heart of French perfumery, adds its creamy, narcotic glow, its indolic richness imbuing the composition with a heady sensuality. Tunisian orange blossom, more intense and slightly animalic compared to its Mediterranean cousins, drapes the bouquet in a luminous, honeyed sweetness.
As the fragrance deepens, its base emerges with an opulent tapestry of woods, resins, and musks. Siamese benzoin, with its vanilla-tinged warmth, and Somalian myrrh, rich and balsamic, weave together in a golden resinous embrace. Venezuelan tonka bean, redolent of tobacco and almond, adds a velvety softness, its coumarin richness blending seamlessly with warm resins. Indonesian Macassar wood contributes an exotic, dark woodiness, its scent deep and slightly smoky. Virginian cedar, crisp and dry, provides an elegant structure, while Gabonese ebony infuses the blend with a polished, almost inky darkness.
Haitian vetiver, with its earthy, smoky facets, mingles with Yugoslavian oakmoss, which lends a deep, forest-floor greenness, grounding the fragrance in nature’s raw elegance. Ambergris, with its elusive, marine-inflected muskiness, adds an ethereal depth, making the composition feel alive on the skin. Mysore sandalwood, prized for its buttery smoothness, imparts a creamy, almost sacred warmth. The musky final notes envelop the fragrance in sensuality—natural Tibetan musk, rich and animalic, contrasts with synthetic musk’s soft, powdery touch, creating a lingering, intimate warmth. Seychelles patchouli, damp and earthy, adds the final brushstroke—dark, mysterious, and grounding, its whisper of the tropics lingering in the shadows.
Fantastique is a fragrance of grandeur, a composition that oscillates between effervescent light and velvety darkness. It is citrus kissed by spice, fruit wrapped in florals, and woods steeped in ambered resins. An olfactory journey that unfolds with drama and finesse, it is a scent that lingers, luxurious and enigmatic, like a whispered promise on silk.
Bottles:
Fantastique's parfum was elegantly housed in a tall, triangular crystal bottle, exuding a sense of refined luxury and timeless sophistication. The crystal bottle, with its clear and sharp geometric lines, reflected the high standards of design and craftsmanship of the 1950s. The triangular shape was not only visually striking but also symbolized stability and balance, qualities that resonated with the perfume's harmonious blend of scents. The bottle's design ensured that it stood out on a vanity table, catching and reflecting light to create a dazzling display that mirrored the enchanting allure of the fragrance inside.
The spiked stopper made of colorless lucite added a modern and edgy touch to the classic crystal bottle. Lucite, a material known for its clarity and durability, provided a contemporary contrast to the traditional crystal, emphasizing the innovative spirit of the time. The spiked design of the stopper was both bold and sophisticated, echoing the daring nature of the women who wore Fantastique. This combination of crystal and lucite created a dynamic interplay of materials, symbolizing the fusion of tradition and modernity that defined the era.
The Eau de Toilette was housed in a taller, modified version of the triangular crystal bottle, maintaining the elegant aesthetic while offering a more practical and accessible option for everyday use. This bottle retained the sophisticated triangular shape but was elongated to hold a larger volume of the fragrance. The design modifications ensured that the Eau de Toilette bottle remained true to the luxurious and stylish essence of Fantastique while providing a more versatile and functional alternative to the parfum.
Together, the packaging of Fantastique's parfum and Eau de Toilette exemplified the meticulous attention to detail and artistic vision of Parfums D'Orsay. The crystal and lucite elements, along with the unique geometric shapes, not only housed the exquisite fragrance but also served as a testament to the era's blend of elegance and innovation. These bottles were not merely containers but works of art, enhancing the overall sensory experience of the perfume and embodying the spirit of Fantastique.
Under Milk Wood, 1954:
"One of the brightest newcomers, Fantastique, D'Orsay's clear-noted eau de toilette in a tall crystal pyramid. Four ounces, $5. At Saks Fifth."
Fate of the Fragrance:
Fantastique by Parfums D'Orsay, despite its captivating charm and sophisticated packaging, eventually faced discontinuation, a fate that many beloved fragrances meet over time. The exact date of its discontinuation remains shrouded in mystery, adding a layer of intrigue to its history. What is known, however, is that Fantastique was still available for purchase in 1965, suggesting that its allure persisted through at least the mid-1960s, capturing the hearts of many during its prime.
The continued availability of Fantastique in 1965 indicates that it enjoyed a significant period of popularity. This era, characterized by rapid social change and the burgeoning influence of modern fashion and beauty standards, saw women seeking perfumes that matched their evolving tastes and lifestyles. Fantastique, with its elegant packaging and sophisticated scent profile, likely resonated with women of the time, offering a touch of timeless elegance amidst the fast-paced changes of the decade.
Despite its enduring appeal, the discontinuation of Fantastique underscores the often fleeting nature of the fragrance industry. Market trends, shifts in consumer preferences, and the introduction of new scents can all contribute to the decision to retire even the most cherished perfumes. The end of Fantastique's production marked the conclusion of an era for Parfums D'Orsay, leaving behind a legacy of elegance and refinement that enthusiasts and collectors continue to appreciate.
The mysterious discontinuation date of Fantastique adds to its allure as a vintage fragrance. For collectors and perfume aficionados, this uncertainty enhances the perfume's mystique and desirability. Bottles of Fantastique, whether the parfum in its iconic triangular crystal bottle with a spiked lucite stopper or the Eau de Toilette in its taller counterpart, are now treasured finds, representing a bygone era of perfumery marked by artistry and sophistication.
Fantastique’s journey from its launch to its eventual discontinuation reflects the dynamic and ever-changing landscape of the fragrance world. Its presence on the market until at least 1965 serves as a testament to its quality and the lasting impression it made on those who experienced its unique scent. Though no longer in production, Fantastique remains a symbol of Parfums D'Orsay's dedication to creating perfumes that transcend time and continue to enchant long after their discontinuation.
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