Wednesday, September 21, 2022

Incognito by Noxell c1992

Incognito by Noxell: launched in 1992 in association with Cover Girl, a division of the Noxell Corp. Procter & Gamble was looking to expand its portfolio and bought Noxell in October 1989 and in turn now owned Cover Girl. The name Incognito was originally filed for a trademark in 1989 by the Noxell Corp. and granted a trademark in 1990. 




Cincinatti-based Procter & Gamble's Incognito was the first mass market perfume developed by the company. It was scheduled to debut to the public with an extravagant ad campaign in April of 1992. "The advertising will be in black and white," said Procter & Gambler spokesman, Don Tassone, "and imagery for the product is one of the sensuality, intrigue and romantic promise. The advertising expresses that with a provocative message, to 'Slip into the Night.'"

This was meant to represent "a new look for Cover Girl and a very new look for the Procter & Gamble Co." as P&G chairman and chief executive Edwin L. Artzt told a coterie of cosmetic execs. It was at this meeting held in New York in early January 1992, Artzt told the execs that P&G planned to eventually get into the expensive end of the perfume business in the USA. It already had a small presence through the EuroCos line of Betrix Products, a German business P&G acquired several years before. The EuroCos brand marketed the Hugo Boss for men and Laura Biagiotti's Roma fragrances for women in US department stores. Those products already had a major presence in Europe.

Incognito was meant to be a costly continuance to the Procter & Gamble fragrance, Navy.  The suggested list price was $23 for 1/3 ounce of perfume and $10.50 for a 1/2 ounce of cologne which would grace the shelves in mass market stores. As a contrast, in department stores, the more upscale brands such as Estee Lauder, Givenchy, Chanel and Lancome ranged from $60 to $150 for 1/2 ounce. 

"At the time we acquired Noxell the development of Navy was pretty far along," Don Tassone said. "With some additional work we brought it to the marketplace soon after the acquisition. It quickly became one of the leading mass fragrances for women. Building on that, P&G began developing the new Incognito fragrance, also from Cover Girl. This is the first brand we have managed from the start, again building on learning we gained with our experience from Navy."

Procter & Gamble, owner of some of the world's best known health and beauty care products, was not new to the sphere of fragrance. P&G developed its own for years as well as buying millions of pounds from other manufacturers for its bar soaps, detergents and many other products. But the company was respectively a newcomer in the retail perfume business. P&G first got into the cosmetics business with acquisitions of Richardson-Vicks in 1984; the Noxell Corp. (maker of Cover Girl, Clarion and Noxema) in the fall of 1989; as well as Giorgio Beverly Hills Inc from Avon Products Inc, and two Revlon divisions in 1991 (Max Factor & Betrix).  This resulted in annual sales of $4.3 billion in the cosmetics category by 1992.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral semi-oriental fragrance for women. Incognito is a semi-oriental, floral bouquet that begins with a scintillating mixture of fresh fruits (mandarin orange and fresh peach). Mid-notes include hyacinth, narcissus, jasmine and rose and the woody oriental dry down is a mix of sandalwood and vanilla.
  • Top notes: mandarin, peach, aldehydes, orange, green notes, basil, bergamot, Brazilian rosewood and lemon
  • Middle notes: hyacinth, honey, carnation, narcissus, cinnamon, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
  • Base notes:  amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, benzoin, civet, vanilla, incense and styrax

Bottles:

Incognito was housed inside of an elongated A-shaped frosted bottle topped with a green plastic cap designed by Pierre Dinand, who also designed the eye catching packaging for the Navy fragrance. For the 1 ounce cologne bottle, a gold "activator" button at the top is depressed to spray the fragrant contents.

Incognito was originally available in the following:
  • 1/3 ounce of perfume 
  • 0.10 oz cologne
  • 1/2 ounce of cologne



 Fate of the Fragrance:



In 1996, Procter & Gamble announced it was putting seven of its mass market fragrances up for sale, hoping to sell them as a package: Navy, Navy for Men, Jaclyn Smith's California, California for Men, Incognito, Le Jardin and Toujours Moi.

Kimberly Steward, a spokesperson in P&G's Maryland-based cosmetics division said that the sale encompassed basically the company's entire mass fragrance business in the USA. "There's still some debate about what's in and what's out in Europe," she said. The sale was part of P&G's year-old program to rid itself of minor, underperforming and non-strategic brands. 
P&G President Durk Kager said, "Mass fragrances make up a relatively small business for us, compared to our much larger cosmetic and fine fragrance business." He further explained that "We want to focus our resources on building cosmetics, with Cover Girl and Max Factor, and our fine fragrances, through our Giorgio, Hugo Boss and Laura Biagiotti brands."

These were bought up by the Dana Perfumes Corporation in 1996. Dana Perfumes Corp. took over many other companies such as Corday, Helena Rubinstein, Cover Girl (Noxell), Shulton (Old Spice), Max Factor (Le Jardin, Toujours Moi), Canoe, Houbigant (Chantilly) and Jaclyn Smith (California) perfumes. Dana bought out the rights to these companies and produced their perfumes, sometimes reformulating them and keeping the original well known names.

In 1995, Dana ("Les Parfums de Dana") was purchased by Renaissance Cosmetics, Inc. Renaissance Cosmetics was acquired by Fragrance Express, Inc. and the investment house of Dimeling, Schreiber & Park. Dana now became the "New Dana Perfume Corporation." Fragrance Express, Inc. was purchased by National Boston Medical Inc. 

In 2004, New Dana announced that it was closing it's 40 year old Mountain Top facility in Wright Township, Pennsylvania. At this time, two Danas were using the facility: New Dana Perfume, Inc., which manufactures, fills, and stores Dana products, and Dana Classic Fragrances, Inc., which owns the trademarks to the Dana fragrances and markets and sells the Dana perfume line.

Incognito is still available at many online discount shops. If you are looking for the original vintage formula, you need to find the boxes and labels marked with Noxell or Cover Girl. The early Dana formula might be the same as the prior formulation. I am not exactly sure how the newest formula from Dana smells, I do know that it has been reformulated to align with the IFRA restrictions on certain ingredients. 

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