Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli c1946

In 1946, Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli emerged onto the perfumery scene, marking a significant moment for the brand post-World War II. This period was characterized by a resurgence in luxury and glamour after the austerity of war years, making it an opportune time for a new fragrance launch. Perfumery itself was undergoing a renaissance, with iconic fragrances becoming associated with both personal luxury and societal status.

Prince Matchabelli's choice of the name "Crown Jewel" for this perfume carries multiple layers of significance. Firstly, it aligns with the brand's royal associations—Prince Matchabelli himself was a Georgian prince, and by naming a fragrance "Crown Jewel," he evoked notions of regal elegance and exclusivity. The term "Crown Jewel" is traditionally used to denote the most precious and valuable item in a collection, often associated with royalty and dynastic heritage. By applying this name to a perfume, Matchabelli positioned his creation as a pinnacle of luxury and refinement, appealing to those who sought to embody sophistication and opulence.

The name "Crown Jewel" would resonate deeply with consumers who aspired to a sense of royalty and elegance in their personal lives. It would evoke images of ornate crowns adorned with rare gems, sumptuous courtly settings, and the allure of precious treasures. Those who wore the perfume would likely feel a sense of elevated status and sophistication, akin to wearing a coveted jewel that enhances their aura of glamour and allure.

In essence, Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli embodied more than just a perfume; it encapsulated a vision of luxury, elegance, and timeless allure. Its name and marketing strategy were crafted to resonate with an audience seeking to adorn themselves with nothing less than a "crown jewel" of fragrance, symbolizing both personal indulgence and cultural sophistication.

"Imported From France?"

During the post-World War II era, the advertising of Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli as "imported from France" played a crucial role in its marketing strategy, tapping into the allure of French perfumery craftsmanship. Advertisements in newspapers of the time conveyed the impression that Crown Jewel was entirely produced in France, a country renowned for its prestigious perfume industry. This marketing tactic aimed to capitalize on the perceived prestige and quality associated with French perfumes, catering to American consumers who admired and sought out products from France for their elegance and sophistication.

However, the reality behind the "imported from France" label was more nuanced. While the perfume formula of Crown Jewel was indeed created and compounded in France, the practicalities of post-war production and distribution meant that the finished product underwent further processing in the United States. The compounded perfume was shipped to the Matchabelli factory stateside, where it underwent bottling, packaging, and distribution processes. This hybrid production model allowed Prince Matchabelli to leverage both the allure of French origins and the logistical advantages of local manufacturing, ensuring control over quality and availability while maintaining the prestigious French association.

During World War II, the importation of perfumes and raw materials from France to other countries, including the United States, was severely restricted or halted altogether due to wartime conditions and Nazi occupation. This disruption significantly impacted the availability of French perfumes in American markets, creating a pent-up demand among consumers who had grown accustomed to the luxury and refinement associated with French scents. Advertisements proclaiming the return of French perfumes, such as Crown Jewel, would have been enthusiastically received by American consumers eager to once again indulge in their favorite fragrances from abroad, marking a return to pre-war notions of elegance and cosmopolitan taste.

In essence, the marketing of Crown Jewel as "imported from France" not only capitalized on the prestige of French perfumery but also symbolized a return to normalcy and luxury after the hardships of war. It resonated with American consumers who valued the sophistication and quality of French perfumes, offering them a taste of European elegance amid the post-war reconstruction period.

Fragrance Composition:

Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli is often regarded as the brand's response to Jean Patou's iconic Joy perfume. Like Joy, Crown Jewel is classified as an aldehydic woodsy floral fragrance for women, known for its opulent and radiant floral notes. 

Notes at a glance:

• Top notes: aldehydes, green note, Alpine lily of the valley, Georgian peach
• Middle notes: Grasse rose, Grasse jasmine, Dutch lily, Chinese orchid, Indian tuberose
• Base notes: Florentine orris, Mysore sandalwood, Virginian cedar, ambergris, Tibetan musk, Abyssinian civet, Indonesian patchouli

Scent Profile:

Crown Jewel by Prince Matchabelli is a fragrance of regal opulence, an homage to the most luxurious florals in perfumery, arranged in dazzling radiance. It opens with the effervescent brilliance of aldehydes, a champagne-like shimmer that lifts the scent into the air with an airy, sparkling vibrance. These aldehydes dance alongside a crisp, verdant green note, like the scent of freshly crushed leaves underfoot, dewy and alive. 

Then, Alpine lily of the valley emerges—its fragile white bells exuding a delicate, watery sweetness, reminiscent of a hidden forest glade where the air is tinged with green freshness. The opening is softened by the gentle succulence of Georgian peach, a fruit of sun-drenched orchards, its velvety, golden flesh releasing a soft, honeyed nectar. This peach is not overly ripe but brimming with subtle, juicy sweetness, lending warmth to the cool, aldehydic shimmer above.

As the fragrance unfurls, it reveals a heart of florals so lush, they seem almost decadent. Grasse rose, the queen of all roses, blooms in velvety folds, its rich, honeyed facets imbued with a deep floral sweetness. Unlike its Bulgarian counterpart, the Grasse rose carries a softer, more refined elegance, its petals warmed by the sun of the French Riviera. Alongside it, Grasse jasmine sings in perfect harmony—its creamy, indolic richness weaving through the composition with an intoxicating depth. 

Dutch lily, rare and striking, lends a smooth, almost waxen floralcy, its scent reminiscent of fresh petals kissed by cool morning air. Chinese orchid follows, exotic and subtly spicy, its aroma a balance of creamy vanilla-like warmth and delicate floral transparency. Then, Indian tuberose unfurls—bold, hypnotic, and luminous, its opalescent petals exuding a narcotic richness that is at once creamy and deeply sensual, pulsating at the heart of the fragrance like a jewel reflecting candlelight.

The base of Crown Jewel is where warmth and depth take hold, grounding the florals in an opulent embrace. Florentine orris, one of perfumery’s rarest treasures, lends a velvety, powdery softness, its scent reminiscent of violet-laced suede with a buttery smoothness that lingers on the skin. Mysore sandalwood follows, its legendary creamy warmth infusing the composition with a luxurious, almost milky woodiness. This sandalwood, sourced from India, is prized for its unparalleled smoothness, with hints of spice and incense woven into its golden depth. 

Virginian cedar adds a refined dryness, its crisp, resinous elegance tempering the composition’s florals with a polished, noble strength. Then, ambergris arrives like a whisper of the sea—saline, warm, and subtly animalic, lending an ethereal glow to the perfume’s final stages. Tibetan musk deepens this warmth, its earthy, slightly feral nature creating an intimate, sensual trail. The exotic depth of Abyssinian civet follows, its rich, balsamic warmth adding a vintage, old-world sensuality that enhances the luxurious nature of the blend. Indonesian patchouli completes the scent with its dark, earthy resonance—its camphoraceous, woody sweetness swirling through the base like a final, lingering echo of grandeur.

Crown Jewel is a fragrance of unparalleled splendor, a symphony of the rarest florals and precious materials, arranged with the precision and artistry of a royal heirloom. It wears like a velvet gown embroidered with golden threads, luminous and commanding, yet imbued with a timeless grace. It is a scent that speaks of elegance, of whispered luxuries and gilded opulence—truly, a crown jewel of perfumery.

Bottle:

The presentation of Crown Jewel in the iconic crown bottles indeed adds to the allure and regal charm of this fragrance, creating a captivating visual representation that complements its opulent scent. The choice of bottle design reflects the essence of royalty and luxury, embodying the name "Crown Jewel" in both form and function.

The bottle selected for Crown Jewel is crafted from crystal clear glass, allowing the radiant golden hue of the fragrance to shine through, further enhancing its regal appeal. The clarity of the glass not only showcases the rich color of the perfume but also adds a sense of transparency and purity, aligning with the sophistication and elegance of the scent itself.

The addition of gold enameling to the bottle design enhances its luxurious aesthetic, elevating it to a level of opulence fitting for a fragrance of such prestige. The intricate detailing in gold adds depth and texture to the bottle, creating a sense of lavishness and grandeur that captivates the eye.

Furthermore, the choice of a cross stopper for the bottle adds a touch of religious symbolism and historical significance, evoking images of ancient royal regalia and ceremonial adornments. This detail not only contributes to the overall aesthetic appeal of the presentation but also reinforces the notion of Crown Jewel as a precious and revered fragrance, fit for royalty.

In combination, the crystal clear glass, gold enameling, and cross stopper come together to create a presentation that exudes luxury, elegance, and timeless sophistication, perfectly complementing the brilliance and opulence of the fragrance itself. The iconic crown bottle design serves as a fitting vessel for Crown Jewel, embodying its status as a true gem in the world of perfumery.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Crown Jewel was still being sold in 1964, but likely discontinued soon after. The "Crown Jewel" name was no longer used for a particular scent, but rather for the name of a perfume presentation for Windsong. It's fascinating how the legacy of the "Crown Jewel" name persisted even after the discontinuation of the fragrance itself. Repurposing the name for a perfume presentation within the Windsong line demonstrates Prince Matchabelli's recognition of the value associated with the trademarked name and its association with luxury and regality.

The transition of the "Crown Jewel" name to a perfume presentation for Windsong reflects the brand's adaptability and strategic branding decisions. By leveraging the established prestige and recognition of the Crown Jewel name, Prince Matchabelli could enhance the appeal of the Windsong line, infusing it with a sense of opulence and grandeur.

The crystal and gold enamel crown bottle, along with the glass cross stopper, continued to evoke the regal charm and allure associated with the original Crown Jewel fragrance, further emphasizing the luxurious nature of the Windsong perfume presentation. The addition of a gold tone necklace suspended from the bottle added an extra touch of elegance and sophistication, elevating the overall presentation and reinforcing the connection to the Crown Jewel legacy.

While the specific date of discontinuation for Crown Jewel perfume remains unknown, its enduring influence through the repurposing of its name highlights the lasting impact of iconic fragrances and their associated branding. Prince Matchabelli's decision to retain and repurpose the Crown Jewel name demonstrates a savvy understanding of the importance of brand recognition and the ability to capitalize on established trademarks to enhance the appeal of new products within their fragrance portfolio.