Hindustan by Myrurgia c1922

In 1922, when Myrurgia launched the perfume "Hindustan," Spain's connection to India was primarily through its colonial history. At the time, Spain held the Philippines as a colony, but it maintained trade connections with India, particularly in textiles and spices. The fascination with the exotic Orient, including India, was prevalent in Europe during this era, influenced by colonial expansion, trade routes, and cultural exchange.

Films with Indian themes did exist in the early 20th century, although they were not as widespread as in later decades. Nevertheless, cultural and artistic representations of India in European media often romanticized and exoticized the country, portraying it as a land of mystique and allure.

Myrurgia likely chose the name "Hindustan" for its perfume to capitalize on this fascination with the exoticism of India. In Spanish, "Hindustan" refers to the historical region of North India, emphasizing its rich cultural heritage and association with spices, textiles, and luxury goods coveted in Europe at the time.

"Hindustan" would make a compelling name for a perfume because it evokes images of opulence, mystery, and sensuality associated with the Orient. For women of the early 20th century, a perfume named "Hindustan" would likely appeal as it promised to transport them to a distant, glamorous world of spices, silks, and exotic beauty.

Women of that time would probably respond positively to "Hindustan" due to its evocative name and luxurious connotations. The imagery of a woman on the packaging wearing harem pants and jeweled attire further reinforces this exotic allure, appealing to fantasies of an Eastern sensibility.

The word "Hindustan" conjures up images of bustling bazaars, intricate fabrics, spices wafting through the air, and perhaps even romanticized visions of palaces and gardens. Emotionally, it suggests adventure, romance, and a touch of the unknown, which would have been highly appealing to consumers seeking escapism and luxury.

Naming a perfume "Hindustan" in 1922 would indeed be unique and intriguing. It would set itself apart from other perfumes by tapping into a trend of Orientalism that was fashionable in European society at the time, yet still retaining an air of exclusivity and sophistication.

The word "Hindustan" would likely be interpreted by consumers as a symbol of luxury, exoticism, and cultural richness from the Indian subcontinent. It would signify not just a fragrance, but an experience—a journey to a faraway land of elegance and allure, encapsulated in a bottle.

In conclusion, "Hindustan" by Myrurgia, launched in 1922, leveraged Spain's colonial connections and Europe's fascination with the Orient. The name, imagery, and cultural context surrounding the perfume would have resonated with women of the era, promising a sensorial journey to the exotic and luxurious world of Hindustan.

Terre de Retz Powder Boxes c1920s

"Terre de Retz" was a line of face powder sold by the Galeries Lafayette department store in Paris, The face powder was housed inside papier mache or composition powder boxes molded in various forms from historical figures to sailing ships. Richly painted in dreamy pastels or bold primary colors, these fanciful boxes adorned boudoirs during the 1920s.

c1927 ad

Parfumerie Diaphane

Parfumerie Diaphane, established in 1881 by Mr. A. Reverchon, carved a niche for itself in the world of cosmetics and fragrance, starting with a breakthrough product he had developed earlier. In 1879, Reverchon introduced La Diaphane, a sheer face powder that captivated consumers and quickly gained popularity. Inspired by the success of this product, he named his company after it, marking the beginning of a legacy that would span decades. The establishment was located at 48 Avenue Parmentier in Paris, a site that would become significant in the realms of beauty and perfumery.

Parfumerie Diaphane became a prominent name in the cosmetics industry, renowned for its sheer face powder, Poudre Diaphane. The powder was notably endorsed by the illustrious actress Sarah Bernhardt, whose endorsement lent the product an air of sophistication and glamour. As the company expanded, it gained international recognition, exporting nearly two-thirds of its products throughout Europe and as far afield as Indo-China, Japan, the Caribbean, and the Pacific coast. This extensive reach highlighted the brand's commitment to quality and innovation, allowing it to establish a solid foothold in diverse markets.

Nysis by Agra c1919

Nysis by Agra Parfumeur: launched in 1919. Nysis was a line that included perfume, toilet water, cold cream, talc, face powder, vanishing cream, and soap.

The packaging is emblazoned with a wonderful Egyptian style woman's head wit long black hair.  Themes featuring any sort of Egyptomania was very popular during the 1920s. You can see from the advertisements below that the Egyptian theme was carried out by showing some Egyptian maidens to the upper right side of the ads. These were from a 1920 issue of Cosmopolitan.

Nysis has been discontinued since the 1920s. The products are very collectible, with the perfume and toilet water the most expensive and rare, while the face powder and the talcum tin are common.

 

Cigalia by Roger et Gallet and Scarabee by LT Piver

Rene Lalique is well known as a genius who designed and manufactured beautiful perfume flacons. In my opinion, the two most interesting pieces were made around the same time for two different companies, LT Piver & Roger et Gallet. Each bottle is a stylized insect, a cicada and an Egyptian scarab beetle. These were popular motifs during the Art Nouveau era and must have appealed to women with refined tastes.

Blondeau et Cie & Vinolia

Blondeau et Cie and the Legacy of "Vinolia": A History of Luxury Toiletries and Perfumes

Blondeau et Cie was a notable Anglo-French company established around 1885 by Dr. Eggleston Burrows and James Hill Hartridge. Headquartered at Lever House on Victoria Embankment in London, their origins lay primarily in soap manufacturing. However, the firm expanded its offerings to include exquisite perfume presentations and a celebrated line of toiletries under the "Vinolia" brand, which remained active until 1930.

The "Vinolia" brand was launched in 1888, initially focusing on high-quality soaps crafted for sensitive skin. Its products quickly gained a reputation for superior quality and became synonymous with luxury and refinement. By 1892, the brand diversified its portfolio to include perfumes, toiletries, and skincare products, all marketed under the Blondeau et Cie name.

In 1898, the company restructured for family and financial reasons, transitioning into a private company with a nominal capital of £100,000. It was renamed the Vinolia Company Limited. By 1899, the business underwent another transformation, becoming a public company to further its growth and capitalize on its burgeoning reputation in both domestic and international markets.

Parfumerie St. Denis

Parfumerie St. Denis of Paris France. (also known as Perfumery St. Denis). The American part of the company was located at 452 Fifth Ave., New York. The company produced perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics. But they were famous for their bath salts and powders.

Dr. Anthony T. Frascati (b. July 7, 1892 in Italy) composed the perfumes for Perfumery St Denis in 1922-1925 and again as the chemist in charge of production and perfumery in 1926-1929.  Frascati had also compounded perfumes for other companies such as Tokalon (1922-1925), Ungerer & Co (1929-1932), and Givaudan-Delawanna (1925-1926) before joining Max Factor in 1933. Frascati worked in the Max Factor labs until 1936, when he was appointed head of the perfume laboratory for Firmenich in New York City until 1949. He even whipped up private perfumes for screen stars, but did not manufacture them.

In 1940, Baum acquired St. Denis.  St. Denis Toiletries, Inc., has acquired the business of the former Parfumerie St. Denis, Inc., New York. Jerome E. Baum. originator of Dermay Perfumes, Inc.. who retired and sold his interest in Dermay after fifteen years' association is president of the new organization.


The perfumes of Saint Denis:

• 1923 "Rainbow" Bath Salts
• 1925 Birch
• 1925 Birch Buds
• 1925 Blue Carnation
• 1925 Narcisse D'Auteuil 
• 1926 Eau de Cologne Royale
• 1926 Jeunesse Vivante
• 1928 Turandot
• 1928 Vigorettes
• 1931 Pine Rest
• 1932 B18
• 1932 De Tout Mon Coeur
• 1932 Auf Wiedersehen
• 1932 Liebestraum
• 1933 Gardenia Royal
• 1933 Non-At-All
• 1933 Yankee Doodle
• 1934 Lily of France
• 1934 Royal Guard
• 1934 The Grenadier
• 1934 Parlez Moi D'Amour
• 1934 Valse de Champagne
• 1935 Au Revoir
• 1935 Rose Geranium
• 1935 Les Fleurs de Jasmin
• 1936 Candle Light
• 1936 Gay Nineties
• 1936 Votre Beaute
• 1936 Orchid
• 1936 Loyalty
• 1936 Hyde Park
• 1936 Old Fashioned Bouquet
• 1936 Madonna
• 1936 Syncopation
• 1936 La Royale
• 1936 Saints Release
• 1936 Chivalry
• 1937 Affection
• 1937 Tyrolean Pine
• 1937 Dirnd'l
• 1939 New Mown Hay
• 1940 Zombie
• 1941 Blue Sapphire
• 1941 Jaunty

The Pharmaceutical Era, Volume 59, 1929:

"Les Fleurs de Jasmin is the name of a new bath crystal package which is soon to be placed on the market by Parfumerie St. Denis, specialists in toilet requisites. The package will retail at $2 and $3.50."

Lucretia Vanderbilt Perfumes & Powders

Lucretia Vanderbilt signature perfume debuted circa 1927-1928. Toiletry line with perfume, toilette, powder, compact. Lucretia Vanderbilt Inc was owned and created around 1927 as a subsidiary of McKesson-Robbins.

Garden Court Toiletries & Perfume

Garden Court Toiletries were manufactured by Nelson of 61 Brooklyn Avenue, Detroit, Michigan. Subsidiary of Penslar Stores.

Blue Carnation by Roger et Gallet c1905

Blue Carnation by Roger & Gallet: launched in 1905, then revived in 1937. You can also find it in its French name Oeillet Bleu.

White Mist by Countess Maritza c1950

White Mist was launched in 1950 by Countess Maritza.

Kiku by Faberge c1967

Kiku by Parfums Fabergé is a classic fragrance that debuted in 1967, encapsulating the essence of its era. The name "Kiku" is derived from the Japanese word for chrysanthemum, a flower deeply rooted in Japanese culture and symbolizing longevity and rejuvenation.

This fragrance captures the spirit of the late 1960s with its unique blend of floral and spicy notes. It exudes a sense of sophistication and mystery, perfect for the confident and elegant woman of its time. The chrysanthemum-inspired theme is reflected not only in the name but also in the fragrance composition, which likely features floral elements alongside other complementary notes.

With its launch in the late 1960s, Kiku by Parfums Fabergé would have been a part of the olfactory landscape of that vibrant era, offering a distinctive scent experience that resonated with the tastes and trends of the time.

Fleurs d'Amour by Roger et Gallet c1902

Fleurs d'Amour by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1902. This is one of the earliest perfumes marketed by Roger and Gallet in America.

Masumi by Coty c1967

Masumi by Coty made its debut in 1967, but it wasn't until a 1976 article captured its essence with profound insight. Describing the perfume, the article noted how it seemed tailor-made for the burgeoning Yoga generation, encapsulating the spirit of an era seeking harmony and enlightenment.

ad from 1977

Youth Dew by Estee Lauder c1953

Youth Dew by Estee Lauder was launched in 1953.

When you think of Youth Dew, you probably think of the Bath Oil that has been popular since the 1950s. But there were a whole range of ancillary products that followed.

Mais Oui by Bourjois c1938

Mais Oui by Bourjois: launched in 1939. Mais Oui, pronounced MA-WEE, which means “certainly," or “but yes!" in French.

Mon Parfum by Bourjois c1919

Mon Parfum (My Perfume) by Bourjois: launched in 1919. It was a perfume created by Ernest Beaux and marketed  "my perfume reflects my personality" and "the sweetest perfume in the world."

Charme Caressant by Dalon c1924

Dalon was established in Paris in 1924 and was affiliated to Pleville, NYAL (Rexall).

Pleville was established by Michel Pleville in 1922 at 38 rue des Mathurins, Paris.

Dalon relaunched Pleville’s 1923 perfume Charme Caressant in 1924, using a new bottle.

Pleville released the perfume Charme Caressant again in 1925 under a new name of Jardin d'Or.

Charme Caressant. This perfume takes it’s name from a cosmetic and toiletry line from Dalon. The line included perfume extract/parfum, face powder in five shades, brilliantine liquid for the hair, vanishing cream, rouge in five shades, toilet water, lipstick in four shades and compacts.

"CHARME CARESSANT BEAUTY PRODUCTS: CHARME CARESSANT FACE POWDER—What entrancing perfume in this exquisite Face Powder. Coupled with the velvety softness of the powder this fragrant perfume has made Charme Caressant the favourite of discerning women. You will like it, too, because it ' clings.' When applied over a foundation of CHARME CARESSANT VANISHING CREAM it will stay on for hours. Dust on liberally with a full puff, then brush off to your liking. Offered in five shades — Rachel, Naturelle, Olive, Suntan, and Blanche. 2/6 and 4/6 a box. CHARME CARESSANT ROUGE—CHARME CARESSANT ROUGE is thrilling ! Petal soft, faintly perfumed, and most important of all, offered in four natural skin tones— Crushed Rose, Orangette, Radiant, and Raspberry. 1/9 a box"

Bottles:

The milky green bottle covered in a faux shagreen pattern shown below was made by Andre Jollivet in two sizes for the parfum extract for Charme Caressant by Dalon.  

photo by Perfume Bottles Auction

The toilet water bottle shown below is made up of clear glass, it was not made by Jollivet.

photo by dencheres.fr

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.  It was still being sold in 1941 as evidenced from a newspaper ad.