Antique Ebony and Sterling Vanity Sets

In the late Victorian era up until around 1920, ebony wood vanity sets were very popular amongst men and women alike. Usually these utilitarian items were fitted with sterling silver mountings that could be monogrammed. 

You could find trays (dresser trays, pin trays, comb trays), hand mirrors, powder shakers, perfume bottles, perfume atomizers, hatpin holders, combs, ring holder/tree, all sorts of brushes (hair brushes, clothes brushes, military brushes, toothbrushes, bonnet brushes, curved hat brushes), jars or boxes (hair receivers, powder jars, salve jars, rouge jar, hair pin boxes), glove stretcher, curling irons, buttonhooks, shoe horns, manicure implements (nail buffers, nail files, cuticle knives, tweezers, nail brushes, corn knives) sewing implements (thimbles, bobbins, needle cases, awls, thread winders, sock darners, pin cushion, etc), clock, candlesticks, travel sets in cases and more, all fitted with ebony backings, bases, lids or handles.

Fabrics, Fancy Goods and Notions - Volume 46. 1912:

"WOODS USED IN THE MAKING OF MIRRORS - The variety of woods which are used in the manufacture of toilet mirrors is practically limitless. The most expensive, ebony is to all other woods what gold is to the metals - first in wide spread popularity. Comparatively few people. however. are conversant upon the subject of ebony. They do not know. for instance. that there are several grades of it used commercially/ The best is known as Gaboon Ebony. This is very black, marked by fine gray streaks, and is extremely brittle. It grows in equatorial Africa;, is cut into logs four feet long; carried on the heads of black slaves for upwords of a hundred miles to the coast, where it is dumped into the sea, sinking, and afterwards fished out and loaded on vessels for exportation/ It has the appearance of dilapidated rail road ties when bought, and is, therefore subject to considerable waste. Macassar, found in South and Central America, is the next highest grade of ebony. The best specimens come from the Brazilian jungles. It is characterized by beautiful streaks of yellow and brown, and is used chiefly for our Natural Ebony products. It is also known as Turtle Ebony. Other good grades of ebony grow in Jamaica, Madagascar, the Isle of Pines, and the Philippine Islands."

Most of the ebony was imported from Africa and into France and the sterling pieces were applied in the USA. The little sterling silver appliques are clearly marked "Sterling." Items can be found marked with "Ebony", "Made in England, "Made in France", "Real Ebony", and "Genuine Ebony." Oftentimes, only the larger pieces in a set are marked, other times, smaller pieces were made up of black tinted celluloid, Bakelite, or as with earlier pieces, "Bois Durci". In 1907, "wooden and "bois durci" articles: Brushes - mounted in silver, in boxes...." were noted in The Canada Gazette.

Bois Durci was an early plastic molding material based on cellulose. It was patented in Paris and  England in 1855, by Francois Charles Lepage. Lepage claimed in his patent that he had invented "A new composition of materials which may be employed as a substitute for wood, leather, bone, metal and other hard or plastic substances."

Bois Durci was made from finely ground wood 'flour' and mixed with a natural animal derived binder, either egg or blood albumen or gelatine, animal waste products leftover from the Parisian slaughterhouses. Wood from ebony or rosewood was ground to a very fine powder, with a flour-like consistency. Once mixed with a binder and some black dye, the mixture is dried, powdered again and placed in a steel mold where it was compressed in a powerful hydraulic press whilst being heated by steam. The final product has a highly polished finish imparted by the surface of the steel mold, and the natural wood powder, provided a black or brown result. 

Lepage's patent referred to small household items, such as combs, pipe stems, etc. The Societe du Bois Durci was established to produce desk items, especially decorative inkwell stands and plaques. The factory was at Grenelle in Paris and products were sold through A. Latry & Cie. of 7 Rue du Grand-Chantier, (Au Marais) in Paris. By the end of the 20th century, the firm had been taken over by MIOM (La Manufacture d’Isolants et Objets Moulés) which was founded in 1898. They continued to make Bois Durci until about 1920, by which time it had been superseded by newer plastics materials, such as bakelite.

It is not known when the production of "Bois Durci" objects, in Paris, was discontinued. However, it is known that another factory was established in 1883 in Sezanne by members of the Hunebelle family. This factory used the same material to produce very similar items. Although stylistically similar, it is almost certain that none of the molds from Paris were used in Sezanne. The Sezanne factory continued in production, manufacturing items in both the Belle Epoque and Art Nouveau style until the factory was destroyed by fire in 1926.

Also in Sezanne,  at the Department of Marne, in 1899, Mr. A. Arnoult said that he controlled the manufacture in France of "bois durci," or wood pulp hardened by chemical manipulation and that he knew of no other house engaged in the fabrication. Arnoult claimed that the manufacture of bois durci was "not important" on the "account of the great expense of the outfit," "the difficulty of having the wood, entirely uniform in hardness, grain and age at time of use, which is necessary to produce proper results," and the "difficulty of procuring suitable workmen." He mentioned that the "nearest approach to the bois durci is the caoutchouc durci," and names are given of two house in France engaged in this manufacture. The product is probably the same as the vulcanized rubber of the United States."

You can see images below, shown in advertisements from the 1907 Fort Dearborn Watch & Clock Co. Catalog, Chicago, Il.

Terre de Retz Powder Boxes c1920s

"Terre de Retz" was a line of face powder sold by the Galeries Lafayette department store in Paris, The face powder was housed inside papier mache or composition powder boxes molded in various forms from historical figures to sailing ships. Richly painted in dreamy pastels or bold primary colors, these fanciful boxes adorned boudoirs during the 1920s.

c1927 ad

The Venetian Novelty Company

The Venetian Novelty Company of New York sold various celluloid articles for the vanity as you can see in the 1916 advertisement below.

Vintage Boudoir Dolls

Boudoir dolls have a fascinating history and were often intended more for display and decorative purposes rather than as toys for children. Their elegant appearance with long limbs and carefully crafted faces, often adorned with makeup like kohl-rimmed eyes and bee-stung lips, made them perfect additions to the ambiance of a bedroom.

Boudoir dolls were sold in department stores, gift shops, thru mail order catalogs and even given as carnival prizes. Boudoir dolls were often given as premiums too, for example a big beautiful Boudoir Doll could have been yours with the purchase of any Lane Cedar Chest in the mid 1950s.

The 1927 ad above shows a storefront with many boudoir dolls on display.

The period from around 1915 to the 1940s marked the golden age of boudoir dolls, characterized by exceptional craftsmanship and artistic innovation in doll-making. France certainly stood out as a leading producer of these dolls, renowned for its attention to detail and sophisticated designs.

However, other countries such as Italy, the United States, and the United Kingdom also made significant contributions to the boudoir doll industry. Each region brought its own unique style and cultural influences to the craft, enriching the diversity of boudoir doll production.

Italian boudoir dolls often showcased a flair for elegance and romance, while American dolls reflected the spirit of the times, with trends like flapper fashion and Hollywood glamour influencing their designs. British boudoir dolls, on the other hand, might have featured more traditional or Victorian-inspired motifs, reflecting the country's rich heritage in doll-making.

Overall, the global production of boudoir dolls during this period created a rich tapestry of styles and designs, each contributing to the enduring appeal and charm of these exquisite collectibles.

It's interesting to note the various distribution channels through which boudoir dolls were sold, ranging from department stores and gift shops to mail-order catalogs and even carnival prizes. The versatility of their availability speaks to their popularity and widespread appeal during their heyday.

The mention of boudoir dolls being offered as premiums, such as with the purchase of Lane Cedar Chests in the mid-1950s, highlights how they were used as incentives to attract customers and promote sales of other products. These dolls added a touch of elegance and charm to the homes of their owners, serving not only as decorative pieces but also as symbols of luxury and sophistication.

Materials:

They come in a variety of shapes, but most feature long arms and long legs which are made up of either composition,celluloid, hard plastic of cloth. Composition, the most popular medium for boudoir dolls faces, was a substance made up of sawdust, rags, flour and or wood pulp bound together with glue, then molded to a desired shape. However, heads can also be found made of wax, glazed china, celluloid, felt or bisque.  Composition is very hard to maintain, and is very prone to cracking, crazing, bubbling, flaking and peeling of the paint. Manufacturers realized this and started to make dolls with compo heads and hard plastic limbs, then eventually hard plastic heads with limbs.

As the mid-20th century approached, advancements in materials led to changes in the composition of boudoir doll faces and limbs. Rubber, vinyl, and hard plastic became more prevalent, especially by the 1950s, reflecting a shift towards more durable and cost-effective manufacturing techniques. However, this transition often resulted in dolls that were considered inferior in quality compared to their earlier counterparts.

One of the distinguishing features of boudoir dolls is their attention to detail, including the choice of materials for wigs and painted features. Human hair, silk floss, or mohair wigs were commonly used, though later dolls often featured synthetic hair. Painted features, such as bee-stung lips, heavy eyeshadow, and kohl-rimmed eyes, added to the dolls' allure, while some even boasted false eyelashes crafted from human or camel hair. The highest quality dolls were adorned with glass eyes that could close, adding a touch of realism to their appearance.

Boudoir doll bodies were crafted from a variety of materials, including stuffed cotton, suede, composition, flannel, muslin, velvet, silk, stockinette, leather, and felt, and filled with materials like straw, excelsior, kapok, or cotton batting. Elaborate costumes further enhanced their appeal, showcasing the skill and creativity of the doll-makers.

Kits were sold so you could create your own doll from a pattern as well as dressing it up with the accessories that came in the kit such as a straw hat, dress, shoes, silk roses, for just $1.95 in 1930. A company named "Household Arts by Alice Brooks" sold pattern kits in the 1930s  for boudoir dolls which could be made out of cotton or silk. "Let a boudoir doll add glamour to your room", says an advertisement for an Alice Brooks pattern. In 1934 she advertised the Alice in Wonderland themed boudoir doll pattern.

Diverse Subjects:

The diversity in boudoir doll designs is truly remarkable, reflecting the wide range of cultural influences, fashion trends, and societal interests of the time. From flapper types exuding the spirit of the Roaring Twenties in their lounging pajamas to Gypsies, Harlequins, Harem beauties, Spanish flamenco dancers, Pierrettes, Southern Belles and brides adorned with ruffled dresses, each doll captures a distinct aesthetic and persona. Some dolls were even dressed up in whimsical costumes.

Ethnic types, harem beauties, and even nun dolls showcase the fascination with exoticism and spirituality, offering collectors a glimpse into different cultures and lifestyles. The inclusion of smoker dolls, complete with simulated cigarettes, adds a touch of realism and playfulness to the collection, while male dolls dressed as sheiks embody a sense of mystique and allure.

It's fascinating how boudoir dolls often depict famous female actresses and historical figures, allowing collectors to connect with iconic personalities and moments in history. Whether it's Rudolf Valentino, Josephine Baker or Pola Negri on the silver screen, Marie Antoinette, or Martha Washington in the annals of history, these dolls serve as tributes to the influential women who have left their mark on society.

And let's not forget the whimsical touch of dolls inspired by literary figures like Edgar Allan Poe's Annabel Lee, adding a layer of storytelling and imagination to the collection. In essence, boudoir dolls offer a window into the past, capturing the essence of an era through their diverse array of characters and themes.

Bedroom Accessories:

Boudoir dolls in half size were attached to a metal frames to form lampshades and represented a unique and creative fusion of functionality and aesthetics. These dolls served a dual purpose, acting both as decorative ornaments and as practical lighting fixtures.

The concept of incorporating a doll into a lampshade design adds an element of whimsy and charm to the décor of a room. The doll's dress, typically made of fabric, would envelop the lampshade frame, creating a soft, diffused light when illuminated. This not only illuminated the space but also accentuated the doll's presence, casting a gentle glow that highlighted its features.

This clever design allowed boudoir dolls to become integrated into the functional aspects of interior design, transforming them from mere decorative objects into functional pieces of furniture. It's a testament to the creativity and ingenuity of doll-makers and designers who sought to elevate the beauty and utility of these beloved collectibles.

Also in the 1930s, you could purchase a satin rayon bedspread and a matching boudoir doll that concealed a pillow underneath her dress. Your choice of colors would have been rose, orchid, blue, gold or green. What a charming set that would have been! The idea of a matching satin rayon bedspread with a concealed pillow underneath the dress of a boudoir doll sounds incredibly elegant. The range of colors available—rose, orchid, blue, gold, and green—adds to the allure, offering options to suit different tastes and bedroom decor themes.

Pairing a bedspread with a coordinating boudoir doll not only enhances the visual appeal of the bedroom but also adds a touch of whimsy and personality. It's fascinating how even functional items like bedspreads were designed with such attention to detail and aesthetics during the 1930s, reflecting the emphasis on style and elegance in home decor during that era.

This combination would have certainly been a delightful addition to any bedroom, bringing a sense of luxury and sophistication to the space while also showcasing the creativity and craftsmanship of the time.

Overall, boudoir dolls represent a fascinating blend of artistry, craftsmanship, and cultural influences, offering collectors a glimpse into the elegance and sophistication of a bygone era.

Makers:

The dolls by the Italian maker Lenci are highly sought after by collectors for their distinctive molded felt faces and unique features, including their characteristic side-glancing eyes. The craftsmanship and attention to detail that went into creating Lenci dolls make them prized possessions among collectors, and their rarity often commands high prices in the market. Look for the Lenci mark.

You can find other boudoir dolls marked with the names Anita, Alma, W-K-S Inc. (Keeneye), Cornell, Gerling, Lobby, Smoker, "T",Gold, V, M, Whoopie, Kuddles, Braxted, European Novelty Company (Cubeb), Etta Doll Company, Sterling Doll Company, Munzerlite, Jeannine, Vantine's (usually misspelled Valines), Bloom, Blossom, Dean's Rag Book Co. Ltd, Stefania Lazarska, Norah Wellings, Raynal, Poupee Gerbs, DTF Berlin, Bucilla, Rudolph Leschhorn (RL),  JXB, Rosalinde, Chad Valley, R&B (Debuteen), Du Barry Dolls, Fairframe, Frankowska, and more.

It's interesting to note the variety of marks and names associated with other boudoir dolls as well. Each mark represents a different manufacturer or brand, each with its own history and style. Collectors often keep an eye out for these marks when hunting for valuable and collectible dolls, as they can indicate the maker and sometimes even the specific model or line of dolls.

From Anita to Sterling Doll Company, each mark represents a piece of doll-making history and adds to the diversity and richness of the boudoir doll collecting world. It's through these marks and names that collectors can trace the lineage and provenance of their prized possessions, further enhancing their value and significance in the world of doll collecting.

Boudoir dolls indeed have a fascinating history, don't they? They're such intricate pieces, crafted with attention to detail and often serving as both decorative items and conversation pieces. It's interesting how they were primarily intended for adult display rather than children's play, adding a touch of glamour and sophistication to a room.

The variety of materials used in their construction, from composition to celluloid to hard plastic, speaks to the evolution of doll-making techniques over time. And the fact that kits were available for individuals to create their own dolls reflects a DIY spirit that was prevalent in the early to mid-20th century.

It's understandable why composition faces, despite their delicate nature, were popular for boudoir dolls, given their ability to be molded into expressive features. However, the challenges in maintaining composition dolls due to their susceptibility to damage highlight the importance of adapting materials to improve durability over time.

Overall, boudoir dolls offer a glimpse into the aesthetics and craftsmanship of past eras, and they continue to be cherished by collectors and enthusiasts today.

All photos used are from past ebay auctions found on worthpoint.

Vintage Filigree Vanity Sets

This guide will introduce you to the world of the 1940s-1960s vanity accessories manufactured by Apollo, Matson, Stylebuilt, Guildcrest, Globe and others.

These items were originally sold in department stores, drug stores and jewelry stores.