Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Parfums D'Heraud

Parfums D'Heraud was founded in 1920 by Delphin Heraud at 3 rue de la Sobliers, Courbevoie, Seine, Paris and produced perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. Some of the finest luxury presentations of the period were made by Lucien Gaillard and Rene Lalique for D'Heraud.

The last newspaper ad I have found for D'Heraud was from 1936.










American Perfumer and Aromatics - Volume 17, 1922:
"D'Heraud of Paris, Manhattan Borough, New York, make perfumes $20,000 capital stock has been by L and P Blume; ML Cohen, Attorney; SM Newman. 63 Park Row." 


 






Soap Gazette and Perfume, 1923
"D'HERAUD OF PARIS, Manhattan, NY. Incorporated to manufacture perfumes. Capital $20,000. Incorporators: Leo and P. Blume; ML Cohen, Attorney; SM Newman; 63 Park Row." 

Chemist and Druggist, 1925:
"D'HERAUD'S PERFUMES - Wm. Edwards & Sons, 14-18 Nile Street, City Road, London, N.1, have a special announcement in this issue regarding the perfumes of D'Heraud, of Paris, for whom the firm are sole agents."



 


The perfumes of D'Heraud of Paris France:

  • 1919 La Phalene
  • 1920 D'Heraud
  • 1920 Eau de Cologne
  • 1920 Heliotrope
  • 1921 Chypre
  • 1921 Jasmin
  • 1921 L'Ambré d'Heraud
  • 1921 L'Oeillet
  • 1921 Origan
  • 1921 Prairies en Fleurs
  • 1921 Rose
  • 1921 La Violette
  • 1922 Vampire
  • 1922 Jacinthe
  • 1922 Les Feuillages
  • 1922 Le Lilas
  • 1922 Marjolaine
  • 1922 Muguet
  • 1922 Semis des Fleurs
  • 1923 Guirlandes de Perles
  • 1923 Palerme
  • 1923 Cologne Violette
  • 1923 Rose
  • 1924 Bouquet
  • 1925 Narcisse
  • 1925 Izeil
  • 1930 Mona Lisa




Bottles:


LUCIEN GAILLARD FLACONS:


As far as I know, Lucien Gaillard only designed two flacons for D'Heraud, one was for their Ambre D'Heraud. The unusual shaped bottle is molded with frolicking mermaids on both faces. The stopper is molded in the shape of a seashell. Both the stopper and the bottle is patinated. The squat bottle stands 2.5" tall.


The second bottle by Lucien Gaillard was for D'Heraud's Jasmin. Trapezoidal-shaped frosted glass bottle, molded on both sides with a blooming jasmine flower. Molded in relief on one side “Jasmin D'Heraud.” Button shaped cap molded as a stylized flower.






RENE LALIQUE FLACONS:


Rene Lalique produced several of the flacons for D'Heraud.




My favorite is the incredible flacon used for Phalene. The word "Phalène" is French for the geometer moth, which due to its wing shape, often looks like butterflies. The crystal bottle is in an combination of ambery orange in the center shading to yellow to clear at the edges, which reminds me of a burning flame. The central motif is molded into a slender female shape with outstretched wings. The words "D'Heraud" and "Phalene" are molded towards the lower edges. Three versions of this bottle exist, the first bottle has a matching glass stopper molded with a stylized open flower, the later version has a flat undecorated disk, rather than the floral shape. Also, the earlier bottle may have more of the clear crystal showing while the later version has more of the amber and yellow glass present. I have also seen a bottle which is clear crystal with sepia or gray patina. The bottle stands 3.14" tall.









Another one of my favorite bottles by Rene Lalique that was used for D'Heraud was the one for the Les Feuillages perfume. It was topped with a demilune stopper molded with two birds. This exquisite bottle measures 3.5" tall x 2.75" wide x 1" thick.











The bottle below was used for several different D'Heraud perfumes including Muguet, Izeil, Marjolaine, Ambre, and Prairies en Fleurs. The flacon is a flat rectangle with gently scalloped corners. Its center is molded with the head of a neo-classical styled wood nymph smelling flowers over the fragrance name on the front, and "EAU DE TOILETTE D'HERAUD" on the reverse. The recessed areas are patinated with enamel. The low domed button shaped stopper has a design of radiating small pearls. The bottle was available in two sizes: 4.3" tall and 5.3" tall. The base is molded with R. Lalique. The example shown below is for Muguet.








The pretty bottle below was made for the D'Heraud perfume Rose. It is a narrow square shape molded with a decorative circular medallion on each face, the front being a rose and the reverse being leaves.
The bottle is fitted with a flat topped disk shaped stopper bearing the molded "D'HERAUD" name. Both the medallions on the faces and the stopper are patinated. Bottle that is molded "PARIS FRANCE" and engraved "R. Lalique France" to the underside. This bottle is known to only come in one size, about 3" tall.


A fourth Rene Lalique bottle was made for D'Heraud to house their Chypre fragrance. Again, its is of a narrow square shape. The front and back of the bottle are molded with a vertical linear pattern with stylized floral motifs. The button shaped stopper is molded with a beaded edge and "Chypre D'Heraud." This bottle is found in three sizes: 3.14" tall, 4.13" tall, and 5.11" tall. It is noted that this bottle was also used for the perfumery company Fioret.





A fifth bottle by Rene Lalique was used for various D'Heraud perfumes, mainly Oeillet and Violette. The perfume's name is molded in the center of the bottle on one side and "D'Heraud on the reverse, which are both patinated. The square shaped stopper is molded with a geometric intersecting lines pattern. The bottle stands about 3.14 tall x 2.44" wide.


A sixth bottle by Rene Lalique was originally made in 1926 to house D'Heraud's perfumes. However, when D'Heraud went out of business, Lalique rebranded the flacon as "Palerme" and sold it as part of their Maison Lalique line starting in 1928. The crystal bottle is of a tapering cylindrical shape, and molded with connecting garlands of pearls draped all over the exterior. It is fitted with a matching doughnut shaped stopper. The bottle stands 4.64" tall. 



Rene Lalique produced a beautiful atomizer for D'Heraud's Origan. A tall obelisk shape, it is molded with leafy motifs at each corner, it was given colored patina to highlight the details. Both of these atomizers below are shown with their original French brass hardware, and stand 7" tall. Both are molded with "R. Lalique Paris France" on the base. The bottle itself, with no hardware stands 4.25" x 1 3/8". Based on advertisements, some of the atomizers were sold alongside the perfume bottles.









A seventh lovely flacon by Rene Lalique was molded in a convex, ovoid shape, and featured the words "Cologne" and "D'Heraud" molded into the glass. It was fitted with a frosted glass stopper of a low domed button shape, with notches along the rim. The bottle stands 5.75" tall.









The Rene Lalique flacon below was used for D'Heraud's Les Lilas perfume. This tall, six sided crystal flacon is molded with a central medallion encircled by beads in a graduating pattern. A paper label would have fit perfectly within the medallion. It was fitted with a stylized floral motif stopper. The bottle stands 3.14" tall.






This interesting Rene Lalique flacon was made for D'Heraud's lotions. The crystal flacon is of a soft rectangle shape, molded with with elongated blowouts on either end, the patina highlighted molded stylized words "Lotion, D'Heraud, and Paris," and with a patinated stopper molded with a Greek key pattern. This bottle was used for several different D'Heraud lotions which would have been identified by a paper label in the molded inset on the opposite side from the word "Lotion." The bottle stands 5/9" tall x 3.54" wide.




The lovely crystal Rene Lalique flacons below are of a rectangular shape molded with central square of a female wood nymph face on one side and the fragrance name on the other. It has been used for both the D'Heraud scents Origan and Marjolaine. Note, the wood nymph image is not same as on the other D'Heraud bottles. The bottle was made in two sizes: 3.54" tall and 4.33" tall.  










The frosted crystal Rene Lalique flacon below is of a round, bulbous shape with an all-over molded design of recessed flower heads, each with a black enamel central dot. It still has its paper label so we can see it was for D'Heraud's Semis de Fleurs. It stands 2 5/8" tall.  Rene Lalique also lent the same design to a cylindrical flacon used by D'Heraud. 








In 1922, D'Heraud released a line called Vampire, which was the word of the day for a sexy, seductive woman. A "vamp" was found in motion pictures and magazines. The most famous "vamp" was the actress Theda Bara. D'Heraud used bottles from Rene Lalique for their Vampire line. The Vampire line included extract (perfume), toilet water, eau de cologne, talcum powder, brilliantine, and face powder. The bottle below was used for the talcum powder. It has an ovoid shape, molded with vertical leaves. It has a brass metal cap top metal cap, the top of the cap incorporating the D'Heraud name, and on the front of the bottle is a the gilded paper label for the fragrance "Vampire." The base is molded with "R. Lalique."









 

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