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Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Parfums D'Heraud

Parfums D'Heraud was founded in 1920 by Delphin Heraud and headquartered at 3 rue de la Sobliers, Courbevoie, Seine, a suburb of Paris. The choice of location, though outside the bustling heart of Paris, allowed the brand to maintain an exclusive yet accessible identity within the epicenter of the global perfume industry. Specializing in perfumes, cosmetics, and toiletries, D'Heraud quickly gained recognition for its commitment to luxury and artistry, distinguishing itself through collaborations with some of the most renowned designers of the era.

The name "D'Heraud" is rooted in French linguistic and cultural traditions, evoking a sense of nobility and refinement. The prefix "D'," a contraction of "de," implies a connection to a family lineage or place, lending the name an aristocratic tone. The surname "Heraud" could trace its origins to medieval or old French, potentially linked to personal names or historical titles, though its precise etymology remains unclear. The name, therefore, conveys an aura of heritage and sophistication, aligning seamlessly with the brand’s luxurious image. Pronounced as "DAY-roh" in English, the soft, flowing phonetics further enhance its elegant and exclusive connotations.




D'Heraud's packaging and presentation set a high standard for early 20th-century luxury goods. Esteemed artisans such as Lucien Gaillard and RenĂ© Lalique designed opulent flacons and containers that were as much works of art as functional vessels for the company’s fragrances. These collaborations elevated D'Heraud's standing in the competitive perfume market and solidified its reputation as a purveyor of refined elegance.

The company expanded internationally, incorporating in New York in 1922 under the name "D'Heraud of Paris," with capital stock of $20,000 by L and P Blume; ML Cohen, Attorney; SM Newman. 63 Park Row, Manhattan. Advertisements from that era reveal the company’s presence in both Manhattan and London, where it partnered with Wm. Edwards & Sons, of 14-18 Nile Street, City Road, London, as its sole agent for distribution in the UK. Despite these efforts to establish a global footprint, D'Heraud's prominence waned over time. The last known advertisement for the company appeared in 1936, suggesting its decline in commercial activity and eventual closure.

Today, D'Heraud is remembered as an emblem of early 20th-century luxury perfumery, celebrated for its exquisite presentations and artistic collaborations that continue to captivate collectors and historians alike.

 





The perfumes of D'Heraud of Paris France:

  • 1919 La Phalene
  • 1920 D'Heraud
  • 1920 Eau de Cologne
  • 1920 Heliotrope
  • 1921 Chypre
  • 1921 Jasmin
  • 1921 L'AmbrĂ© d'Heraud
  • 1921 L'Oeillet
  • 1921 Origan
  • 1921 Prairies en Fleurs
  • 1921 Rose
  • 1921 La Violette
  • 1922 Vampire
  • 1922 Jacinthe
  • 1922 Les Feuillages
  • 1922 Le Lilas
  • 1922 Marjolaine
  • 1922 Muguet
  • 1922 Semis des Fleurs
  • 1923 Guirlandes de Perles
  • 1923 Palerme
  • 1923 Cologne Violette
  • 1923 Rose
  • 1924 Bouquet
  • 1925 Narcisse
  • 1925 Izeil
  • 1930 Mona Lisa



An Exploration of the Perfumes of D'HĂ©raud, Paris, France:


1919: La Phalène
Translated as The Moth, this fragrance evokes the delicate, shimmering quality of a moth's silver wings. The pale amber liquid suggests a warm, heady, and exotic composition. Likely inspired by nighttime ambiances, it may have featured soft, shadowy florals such as jasmine or ylang-ylang, accented by warm resins like benzoin or amber.

1920: D’HĂ©raud
The eponymous fragrance of the house, D’HĂ©raud likely encapsulated the essence of their brand. This scent could have been a classic, refined blend of floral and woody notes, appealing to both men and women, showcasing the company’s craftsmanship.

1920: Eau de Cologne
This refreshing cologne would have embraced the traditional zesty and invigorating citrus notes of bergamot, lemon, and neroli, combined with a light herbal heart of lavender and rosemary.

1920: HĂ©liotrope
Named after the flower, Heliotrope would have captured its powdery, almond-like aroma. Expect a soft, sweet floral scent with creamy undertones, potentially enhanced with vanilla and tonka bean.

1921: Chypre
This fragrance’s name, meaning Cyprus, hints at a composition built around mossy, woody, and citrus accords. Likely featuring bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, and labdanum, this could have been an elegant and sophisticated perfume.

1921: Jasmin
A celebration of the jasmine flower, this sweet, floral fragrance would have exuded rich, white floral notes, perhaps paired with green or slightly fruity undertones to enhance its natural beauty.

1921: L’AmbrĂ© d’HĂ©raud
Translated as Amber of HĂ©raud, this oriental fragrance would have centered around the warm, sensual aroma of ambergris or its synthetic substitutes. Complementary notes might include vanilla, labdanum, or sweet spices.

1921: L’Oeillet
Carnation, or L’Oeillet, offers a spicy floral scent with clove-like nuances. The fragrance likely captured the peppery warmth of carnation flowers, combined with soft, powdery notes.

1921: Origan
Meaning Oregano, this was not culinary but a complex perfume with aromatic and spicy facets. It might have included herbal, sweet, and woody notes, evoking a warm and exotic profile.

1921: Prairies en Fleurs
Meadows in Bloom likely captured the essence of spring, with delicate green, floral, and dewy notes on a base of tonka bean and coumarin. Lilac, violet, and lily of the valley may have been central to this fragrance.

1921: Rose
A tribute to the queen of flowers, Rose would have showcased the velvety, rich aroma of fresh blooms, possibly paired with hints of musk and citrus to add depth.

1921: La Violette
Violet perfumes are known for their powdery, sweet, and slightly green profiles. This scent may have combined the soft violet accord with subtle woody undertones.

1922: Vampire
This exotic fragrance broke from the usual heaviness of orientals, offering an "impelling sweetness." It may have blended spices with gourmand and floral notes like orange blossom, clove, or heliotrope.

1922: Jacinthe
Hyacinth, a lush and green floral scent, would have highlighted the waxy, crisp aroma of this spring bloom, supported by fresh green and slightly aquatic undertones.

1922: Les Feuillages
Translated as The Foliage, this refreshing perfume likely focused on crisp, green accords with herbal and mossy nuances, evoking the scent of fresh leaves and woods.

1922: Le Lilas
Lilac perfumes are known for their soft, powdery floral scent. This fragrance may have featured lilac blooms supported by heliotrope, violet, and subtle woody notes.

1922: Marjolaine
Translated as Marjoram, this perfume might have blended aromatic green herbs with delicate floral or citrus undertones, offering a fresh and slightly spicy profile.

1922: Muguet
Lily of the Valley perfumes are prized for their delicate, green floral notes. This fragrance likely featured a light, ethereal blend of muguet with soft musk and dewy greens.

1922: Semis des Fleurs
Sprinkling of Flowers evokes a lush, mysterious floral bouquet. This rich fragrance may have combined exotic blooms like tuberose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang with opulent base notes of amber and sandalwood.

1923: Guirlandes de Perles
Garlands of Pearls evokes elegance and softness, possibly featuring powdery iris, aldehydes, and creamy floral accords, suggesting a luminous, refined composition.

1923: Palerme
Named after Palermo, this fragrance might have drawn inspiration from the Mediterranean, with sunlit citrus notes, earthy woods, and delicate florals like orange blossom.

1923: Cologne Violette
A fresh take on violet, this cologne would have balanced the soft, powdery floral notes with the crispness of citrus and green undertones.

1923: Rose
The rose scent of 1923 may have offered a slightly different interpretation, perhaps emphasizing tea-like or fresh, dewy aspects of the bloom.

1924: Bouquet
A generic term meaning Bouquet, this fragrance would have been a rich combination of florals like rose, jasmine, and lily of the valley, creating a harmonious floral symphony.

1925: Narcisse
Daffodil perfumes are often narcotic and heady, with green and earthy undertones. This fragrance might have blended narcissus with sweet, animalic, or balsamic notes.

1925: Izeil
Izéil was the name of a well known 1890's play by Morand & Sylvestre featuring Sarah Bernhardt as Izéil. The mysterious name of Izeil suggests an exotic scent, possibly rich in oriental spices, resins, or florals like jasmine and orange blossom.

1930: Mona Lisa
Inspired by the enigmatic smile, Mona Lisa may have been a multifaceted fragrance, blending warm woods, amber, soft florals, and a hint of spice to evoke mystery and allure.


Bottles:


LUCIEN GAILLARD FLACONS:


Lucien Gaillard, a master of Art Nouveau design, is known to have created only two flacons for Parfums D'Heraud, one of which was for their fragrance Ambre D'Heraud. This particular bottle stands out for its unique and striking design. The flacon features frolicking mermaids molded in relief on both sides, evoking a sense of movement and whimsy. The stopper, also meticulously crafted, is shaped like a seashell, adding to the bottle's marine theme. Both the stopper and the bottle are patinated, giving them a subtle, aged appearance that enhances the overall aesthetic. Despite its intricate design, the bottle is compact, standing just 2.5 inches tall, making it a small but exquisite example of early 20th-century perfume artistry.


The second flacon designed by Lucien Gaillard for D'Heraud was created for their Jasmin fragrance. This bottle features a distinctive trapezoidal shape, crafted from frosted glass that imparts a soft, ethereal quality. Both sides of the bottle are adorned with a delicately molded jasmine flower in full bloom, capturing the essence of the fragrance it contains. On one side, the name "Jasmin D'Heraud" is elegantly molded in relief, seamlessly integrating the brand's identity with the bottle's design. The cap, button-shaped, is molded to resemble a stylized flower, adding a final touch of refinement and tying the entire design together.





RENE LALIQUE FLACONS:


René Lalique, a visionary in the world of glassmaking and jewelry design, was responsible for creating several exquisite flacons for Parfums D'Heraud. His work for the brand exemplified the marriage of artistry and functionality, with each bottle designed to be both a visual masterpiece and a functional vessel for luxury fragrance. Lalique's flacons are celebrated for their intricate detailing, innovative use of materials, and the seamless way they complement the perfumes they encase. Each piece reflects Lalique's signature style, blending natural motifs with elegant forms, and elevating the experience of perfume to that of fine art.




One of the most remarkable flacons created for D'Heraud, and a personal favorite, is the one used for the fragrance Phalène. The name "Phalène" refers to the geometer moth, a creature whose wing shape often gives it a butterfly-like appearance. The bottle itself is a stunning work of art, crafted from crystal that transitions from a deep amber orange at the center to yellow and finally to clear at the edges, evoking the imagery of a burning flame.

At the heart of the bottle's design is a slender female figure with outstretched wings, symbolizing grace and transformation. The names "D'Heraud" and "Phalène" are subtly molded near the lower edges of the bottle, adding a touch of elegance without distracting from the central motif.

There are three known versions of this flacon. The earliest features a matching glass stopper, intricately molded into the shape of an open flower. Later versions replaced this floral stopper with a flat, undecorated disk. Additionally, the earlier bottles tend to display more clear crystal, while the later versions emphasize the amber and yellow tones. There is also a variant in clear crystal with a sepia or gray patina, adding another layer of sophistication to the design. Standing at 3.14 inches tall, this bottle is a testament to the exquisite craftsmanship of René Lalique.









Another favorite among the flacons designed by René Lalique for D'Heraud is the one created for the Les Feuillages perfume. This bottle showcases Lalique's mastery of detail and elegance. Topping the bottle is a demilune stopper, beautifully molded with the delicate forms of two birds, capturing a moment of serene beauty. The bottle itself is exquisitely proportioned, measuring 3.5 inches tall, 2.75 inches wide, and 1 inch thick, making it a compact yet captivating piece. The combination of the intricate bird motif and the graceful shape of the bottle embodies the refined artistry that Lalique brought to his collaborations with D'Heraud.










The bottle below is a versatile design by René Lalique, used for several D'Heraud perfumes, including Muguet, Izeil, Marjolaine, Ambre, and Prairies en Fleurs. This flacon features a flat rectangular shape with gently scalloped corners, adding a touch of softness to its geometric form. The centerpiece of the design is a neo-classical styled wood nymph, elegantly molded in relief, depicted as she inhales the scent of blooming flowers. This intricate motif graces the front of the bottle, just above the fragrance name, while the reverse side is inscribed with "EAU DE TOILETTE D'HERAUD."

The recessed areas of the bottle are highlighted with enamel patination, enhancing the depth and detail of the design. The flacon is topped with a low domed, button-shaped stopper adorned with a delicate pattern of radiating small pearls, adding an additional layer of refinement. Available in two sizes—4.3 inches and 5.3 inches tall—this bottle is a perfect blend of artistic beauty and functional elegance. The base of the bottle proudly bears the mark "R. Lalique," signifying its origin as a work of art from one of the most renowned glassmakers of the era. The example displayed here was specifically designed for the Muguet fragrance.







The elegant bottle shown here was specifically created for D'Heraud's Rose perfume. It features a narrow square shape, exuding a refined simplicity. Each face of the bottle is adorned with a decorative circular medallion, with a beautifully molded rose gracing the front and delicate leaves adorning the reverse. These medallions, along with the flat-topped, disk-shaped stopper, are patinated, adding depth and a subtle antique finish to the overall design.

The stopper bears the molded "D'HERAUD" name, seamlessly integrating the brand's identity into the bottle's aesthetic. The underside of the bottle is marked with "PARIS FRANCE" and engraved with "R. Lalique France," a signature of the renowned glassmaker who crafted this piece. Measuring approximately 3 inches tall, this bottle is known to exist in only one size, making it a rare and exquisite example of René Lalique's work for D'Heraud.


A fourth bottle crafted by René Lalique for D'Heraud was designed to house their Chypre fragrance. Like some of his other creations, this bottle features a narrow square shape, emphasizing its elegant simplicity. The front and back of the bottle are intricately molded with a vertical linear pattern, adorned with stylized floral motifs that add a touch of organic beauty to the geometric form.

The bottle is crowned with a button-shaped stopper, which is delicately molded with a beaded edge and inscribed with "Chypre D'Heraud," further enhancing its sophisticated appearance. This particular design is versatile, as it was produced in three different sizes: 3.14 inches, 4.13 inches, and 5.11 inches tall. Notably, this bottle was also utilized by another perfumery company, Fioret, showcasing the timeless appeal and adaptability of Lalique's designs.





A fifth bottle designed by René Lalique for D'Heraud was used for several perfumes, most notably Oeillet and Violette. This bottle, characterized by its refined elegance, features the perfume's name molded prominently in the center on one side, while the reverse side bears the "D'Heraud" inscription. Both of these molded elements are patinated, adding a rich, antique finish that enhances the bottle's overall allure.

The bottle is topped with a square-shaped stopper, intricately molded with a geometric pattern of intersecting lines, which complements the bottle's clean, symmetrical form. Measuring approximately 3.14 inches tall and 2.44 inches wide, this bottle is a perfect example of Lalique's ability to blend artistic design with functional beauty, making it a cherished piece in any collection.


A sixth bottle created by René Lalique was originally designed in 1926 to house perfumes for D'Heraud. However, following D'Heraud's closure, Lalique repurposed the design, rebranding it as "Palerme" and incorporating it into their Maison Lalique line starting in 1928.

This elegant crystal bottle features a tapering cylindrical shape, which is meticulously molded with intricate garlands of pearls cascading across its surface. The design enhances the bottle's luxurious appearance, imbuing it with a sense of opulence and sophistication. It is completed with a matching doughnut-shaped stopper, ensuring a cohesive and refined look. Standing 4.64 inches tall, this bottle remains a testament to Lalique's exceptional craftsmanship and innovative design, reflecting the enduring beauty and versatility of his work.



René Lalique crafted a striking atomizer for D'Heraud's Origan, distinguished by its tall obelisk shape. The atomizer is adorned with leafy motifs at each corner, which are beautifully highlighted with a colored patina to accentuate the intricate details. The design combines elegance with a touch of natural inspiration, reflecting Lalique's signature style.

Each of the atomizers is paired with its original French brass hardware, standing an impressive 7 inches tall. The base of both atomizers is marked with "R. Lalique Paris France," underscoring its origin and craftsmanship. When detached from the hardware, the bottle itself measures 4.25 inches by 1 3/8 inches. Historical advertisements indicate that some of these atomizers were offered alongside the corresponding perfume bottles, showcasing Lalique's commitment to creating a cohesive and luxurious presentation for D'Heraud's fragrances.








A seventh exquisite flacon by René Lalique showcases a convex, ovoid shape that exudes elegance and sophistication. The bottle is intricately molded with the words "Cologne" and "D'Heraud" directly into the glass, providing both a functional and decorative element to its design.

It is topped with a frosted glass stopper, which features a low domed button shape complemented by notches along the rim. This detailed stopper adds a subtle yet refined finishing touch to the bottle. Standing 5.75 inches tall, this flacon embodies Lalique’s mastery of form and detail, making it a notable addition to any collection of fine perfume bottles.




The René Lalique flacon shown here was designed for D'Heraud's Les Lilas perfume, exemplifying Lalique's exceptional craftsmanship. This tall, six-sided crystal bottle features a central medallion encircled by a graduated pattern of beads, creating a striking focal point. The medallion was intended to hold a paper label, seamlessly integrating branding with the elegant design.

The flacon is completed with a stopper adorned with a stylized floral motif, which complements the bottle's intricate detailing. Standing at 3.14 inches tall, this bottle combines beauty and functionality, reflecting Lalique's talent for creating sophisticated and visually captivating pieces.






This distinctive René Lalique flacon was crafted for D'Heraud's range of lotions. The crystal bottle features a soft rectangular shape, distinguished by elongated blowouts at each end that add to its unique profile. The design includes patinated, molded text reading "Lotion," "D'Heraud," and "Paris," which is highlighted to enhance its visual appeal.

The bottle is finished with a stopper adorned with a Greek key pattern, contributing to its classical elegance. This flacon was versatile, used for several different D'Heraud lotions, each identified by a paper label placed in the molded inset opposite the word "Lotion." Standing 5.9 inches tall and 3.54 inches wide, this bottle combines functionality with refined design, showcasing Lalique's artistry in both form and detail.




The exquisite crystal flacons by René Lalique, shown below, exhibit a rectangular form that is both elegant and distinctive. Each bottle is meticulously molded with a central square panel featuring the face of a female wood nymph on one side, and the fragrance name on the opposite side. Notably, this wood nymph image differs from those found on other D'Heraud bottles, adding a unique touch to each piece.

These flacons were utilized for both D'Heraud's Origan and Marjolaine fragrances. They were crafted in two sizes, standing either 3.54 inches or 4.33 inches tall, allowing for a range of display options. The design's refined details and sophisticated craftsmanship reflect Lalique's exceptional ability to merge artistic vision with practical function, making these bottles a cherished addition to any collection.










The frosted crystal flacon by René Lalique, depicted below, features a round, bulbous shape adorned with a captivating all-over molded design. This design consists of recessed flower heads, each center punctuated with a striking black enamel dot. The presence of its original paper label confirms that this particular flacon was used for D'Heraud's Semis de Fleurs.

Standing at 2 5/8 inches tall, this bottle exemplifies Lalique's mastery of texture and detail. Additionally, Lalique applied the same floral motif design to a cylindrical flacon for D'Heraud, showcasing his ability to adapt his intricate designs across different bottle shapes while maintaining a cohesive aesthetic.








In 1922, D'Heraud launched a daring line of products under the name "Vampire," a term synonymous with the era's ideal of a sultry, seductive woman. This term, popularized through motion pictures and magazines, was epitomized by the iconic actress Theda Bara, often referred to as the most famous "vamp" of the time. For this line, D'Heraud selected bottles designed by René Lalique, reflecting the opulence and allure of the era.

The Vampire line comprised an array of products including extract (perfume), toilet water, eau de cologne, talcum powder, brilliantine, and face powder. The bottle featured here was used for the talcum powder. It boasts an ovoid shape, elegantly molded with vertical leaf patterns that enhance its visual appeal. The bottle is topped with a brass metal cap, which prominently displays the D'Heraud name, while the front of the bottle is adorned with a gilded paper label for the "Vampire" fragrance. The base of the bottle is stamped with "R. Lalique," marking its prestigious origin and craftsmanship.









 

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