Thursday, July 10, 2014

Parfumerie Lubin

Parfumerie Lubin was established at 11 rue Royale, Paris in 1798 by Pierre-Francois Lubin as Aux Armes de France, a perfume boutique that produced a range of fragrant lotions, powders and toilet waters. Lubin claimed ownership and use of all the secret beauty formulas of the French court.


His success was so great that in the 1800s, Lubin became the favorite supplier of most European royal courts. He was appointed Perfumer to Princess Pauline Borghèse in 1807 and in 1821 Perfumer to King George IV, who had given many rare and costly perfumes to Mrs Fitzherbert, his lover and later wife when he was Prince Regent. Lubin also provided perfumes to the Emperor of Russia.


 The firm fortunately fell into the hands of Princess Borghese, who allowed her name to be linked with the Lubin creations. The perfume, Pauline, was created by Pierre-François Lubin; named after Pauline Borghese; she was the recognized leader of fashion and a great beauty of her time. Eau de Toilette from 1808 was also created for her.

In 1824 Felix-Andre Prot (1811 to 1885) became Lubin's apprentice, Eugene Rimmel's father, H. Rimmel was also apprenticed there.  Later Felix-Andre Prot successed Lubin after his death in 1853 and the company passed onto his heirs in 1885 and Felix's son Paul joined the company. and became Paul Prot & Cie around 1900.

The house of Lubin was the first to solicit the North American market, aiming at the plantation culture of the South. A depot was established in London and distributed by Chandon of New York.  Lubin Inc. established in 1928. Lubin have created about 465 fragrances to date. (2005).

Company closed in mid 1980's. Company re-established in 2004/5; launched 'Idole de Lubin' in 2005 - other re-issues followed.

Some of the perfumes listed below in the the 1920s were probably launched a decade earlier.

The ads below are from an 1893 Marshall Field's catalog.


Some of the perfumes listed below were probably launched a decade earlier.

Lubin fragrances were made in collaboration with perfumers Delphine Thierry, Thomas Fontaine, Henri Giboulet, Olivia Giacobetti, Lucien Ferrero and Roger Broudoux.

The perfumes of  Lubin :

  • 1798 Eau de Lubin
  • 1800 Pauline
  • 1808 Eau de Toilette
  • 1834 Bouquet de Caroline
  • 1834 Extrait de Miel
  • 1834 Jasmin/Jessamine
  • 1834 Lavender Water
  • 1834 Mousseline
  • 1834 Orange de Portugal
  • 1834 Verveine
  • 1834 Violet
  • 1839 Eau de Lubin
  • 1845 Bouquet de Victoria
  • 1845 Fleur d'Orange
  • 1845 Magnolia
  • 1845 Mille Fleurs
  • 1845 Patchouli
  • 1845 Pot Pourri
  • 1845 Rose
  • 1845 Rose Geranium
  • 1847 Bouquet de Jockey Club
  • 1847 Bouquet de Musc
  • 1847 Cedrat
  • 1847 Jasmin
  • 1848 Ambergris
  • 1848 Ambrosia
  • 1848 Aubepine
  • 1848 Bergamotte
  • 1848 Bouquet de Roi
  • 1848 Bouquet d'Esterhazy
  • 1848 Bouquet of Arabia
  • 1848 Camelia
  • 1848 Chevrefeuille
  • 1848 Eglantine
  • 1848 Esprit de Miel
  • 1848 Ess Bouquet (Essence of Bouquet)
  • 1848 Extrait  des Dames
  • 1848 Gysele
  • 1848 Hedyosmia
  • 1848 Heliotrope
  • 1848 Honeysuckle
  • 1848 Jenny Lind
  • 1848 Jockey Club
  • 1848 Lilac
  • 1848 Miel Ambre
  • 1848 Mignardises
  • 1848 Mignonette
  • 1848 Muguet
  • 1848 Otto of Rose
  • 1848 Otto of Rose Damascus
  • 1848 Rough and Ready
  • 1848 Seringa
  • 1848 Suave
  • 1848 Sultanes
  • 1848 Sweet Briar
  • 1848 Tuberose/Tubereuse
  • 1848 West End
  • 1849 Banamer
  • 1849 Lily of the Valley
  • 1849 Absina
  • 1849 Bouquet de Reine
  • 1849 Bouquet de Nervine
  • 1850 Bouquet Chantilly
  • 1850 Bouquet de California
  • 1850 Bouquet de Fah'm
  • 1850 Bouquet de Washington
  • 1850 Citronella Rose
  • 1850 eau distille de fleurs d'oranger
  • 1850 eau de cologne ambree
  • 1850 Jasmin d'Espagne
  • 1850 Jonquille
  • 1850 Melilot
  • 1850 Reseda
  • 1851 Nosegay
  • 1851 Spring Flowers
  • 1851 Sweet Pea
  • 1851 Tea Rose
  • 1852 Bouquet de Pink
  • 1852 Bouquet de Sweet William
  • 1852 Garden Flowers
  • 1852 New Mown Hay
  • 1852 Opoponax
  • 1852 Oriental Drops
  • 1852 Rose Musk/Rose Musquee
  • 1853 Crystal Palace
  • 1853 Hawthorn
  • 1853 Upper Ten
  • 1854 Bouquet New York
  • 1854 Bouquet Philadelphia
  • 1854 Odisma
  • 1855 Sweet Scented Shrub
  • 1855 Prairie Flowers/Fleur des Champs
  • 1855 Italian Flowers/Bouquet d'Italie
  • 1855 Moss Rose
  • 1856 Bouquet d'Orleans
  • 1856 Frangipanni
  • 1857 Oeillet
  • 1857 Cassie
  • 1857 Wall Flowers
  • 1857 Amaryllis
  • 1857 Ambre
  • 1857 Bouquet Hawthorn 
  • 1857 Bouquet de l'Imperatrice
  • 1857 Bouquet de Fontainebleau
  • 1857 Bouquet de l'Oregon
  • 1857 Bouquet de President
  • 1857 Bouquet de Windsor
  • 1857 Caprice de la Mode
  • 1857 Chypre
  • 1857 Danaides
  • 1857 Daphnee
  • 1857 Duchesse
  • 1857 Eau d'Adelaide
  • 1857 Fleurs d'Italie
  • 1857 Marechale
  • 1857 Miel d'Angleterre
  • 1857 Parfum de Montpellier
  • 1857 Pres Fleuris
  • 1857 Quatre Fleurs
  • 1857 Souverains
  • 1857 Vanille
  • 1857 Vetivert
  • 1859 Opera Bouquet
  • 1859 Bridal Bouquet
  • 1859 Napoleon III
  • 1862 Lemon Grass Cologne
  • 1864 Pond Lily
  • 1870 Odeur L'Emperor
  • 1870 Odeur L'Imperatrice
  • 1870 Odeur le Prince Imperial
  • 1871 Acacia
  • 1871 Ocean Spray
  • 1871 Sweet 16/Sweet Sixteen
  • 1871 Violette de Parme
  • 1871 Violette des Bois
  • 1876 Damask Rose
  • 1876 Fifth Avenue
  • 1876 Fleurs d'Mai 
  • 1876 Forget Me Not
  • 1876 Geranium Rosat
  • 1876 Kiss Me Quick
  • 1876 Lavande
  • 1876 Musk
  • 1876 Newport Breeze
  • 1876 Night Blooming Cereus
  • 1876 Poppinack
  • 1876 Patchouly
  • 1876 Rondeletia 
  • 1876 Rosebud
  • 1876 Rose Mousseuse 
  • 1876 Rose Tea/Rose Thé
  • 1876 Stephanotis
  • 1876 Sweet Clover
  • 1876 Verbena/Verveine
  • 1876 Violette
  • 1876 White Rose
  • 1876 Winter Blossom
  • 1876 Ylang Ylang
  • 1880 Mary Stuart
  • 1890 Iris
  • 1890 Peau d'Espagne
  • 1890 Widow Machrée
  • 1890 Wood Violet
  • 1893 Heliotrope Blanc
  • 1893 Double Extrait Musc
  • 1893 Essence Borghetto
  • 1893 Wild Olive
  • 1893 White Lilac
  • 1893 Violet de Perse
  • 1895 Empress of India
  • 1897 Royal White Rose
  • 1897 Lavender Water Royal
  • 1898 Enigma, reissued in 1921
  • 1898 Sola Mia
  • 1899 Fleurs de France
  • 1899 Heather Bells
  • 1899 Royall Lubin
  • 1899 Serpolete
  • 1900 Eau de Cologne Ambrée
  • 1900 Habanera
  • 1900 Cuir de Russie
  • 1900 Heather
  • 1900 Royal Verbena
  • 1900 Royal Heliotrope
  • 1901 Violettes
  • 1903 Le Triolet
  • 1903 Suzie
  • 1903 Suzette
  • 1903 Suzon
  • 1904 Enigma Eau de Toilette
  • 1905 Violette Fée
  • 1906 Pampres d'Or
  • 1908 Rose Lilliput/Rose Liliputian
  • 1908 Bouquet Greuze
  • 1909 Au Soleil
  • 1909 L’Intreview
  • 1909 Tiliola/Tiliola
  • 1910 Cyclamen
  • 1911 Violalba
  • 1912 Chrysanthememe
  • 1912 Creme Kissiah
  • 1912 Epidor
  • 1912 Lierami
  • 1912 Lubinette
  • 1912 Tibi
  • 1912 Tanit
  • 1913 Kigriz
  • 1913 Muguet de Luxe
  • 1918 Bouquet de Papillions
  • 1920 Arabella
  • 1920 Eva
  • 1920 Azalea
  • 1920 Douce France
  • 1920 Kiravi
  • 1920 Lilliput
  • 1920 Lis'n-Dear
  • 1920 Love Me Dear
  • 1921 Kismet
  • 1921 Magda
  • 1922 Abronia
  • 1922 Ahazar
  • 1922 Alpine Rose
  • 1922 Au Hassard
  • 1922 Benjoin
  • 1922 Bouquet d'Osborne
  • 1922 Bouquet d'Oxford
  • 1922 Bouquet du Printemps
  • 1922 Bouquet Pompadour
  • 1922 Brise de Mai
  • 1922 Cachemere Bouquet
  • 1922 Californian Flowers
  • 1922 Canelle
  • 1922 Clavel
  • 1922 Darling Bouquet
  • 1922 Delice de Boudoir
  • 1922 Diapris
  • 1922 Edelweiss
  • 1922 Evening Star
  • 1922 Fleurs d'Amanadier
  • 1922 Fleurs des Indies
  • 1922 Friendship's Offering
  • 1922 Genets d'Espagne
  • 1922 Girofflee
  • 1922 Heno
  • 1922 Honeymoon
  • 1922 Iris Ambre
  • 1922 Jacinthe
  • 1922 Kiss Me Quick
  • 1922 Lacdor
  • 1922 Lilas Royal
  • 1922 Lis/Lys
  • 1922 Madreselva
  • 1922 Mimosa
  • 1922 Morning Star
  • 1922 Mugualba
  • 1922 Myrtida
  • 1922 Narcisse
  • 1922 Narcisse du Japon
  • 1922 Nard
  • 1922 Newport Breeze
  • 1922 Nube
  • 1922 Oeillet Soleil
  • 1922 Parfum de la Coeur
  • 1922 Perfect Gem
  • 1922 Pervenche
  • 1922 Pomeliane
  • 1922 Reine de Pres
  • 1922 Rose de Chine
  • 1922 Sain Foin
  • 1922 Sierra Morena/Sierre Morena
  • 1922 Star of India
  • 1922 Suzette
  • 1922 Suzon
  • 1922 Thimelia
  • 1922 Violalba
  • 1922 Violette des Alpes
  • 1922 Wedding Bouquet
  • 1924 Fougere
  • 1925 Begonia
  • 1925 Les Lys
  • 1925 Les Muguets
  • 1925 Les Violettes
  • 1925 Lilas de Luxe
  • 1925 Monbrosia
  • 1925 Monjoly
  • 1925 Souvenir de Lubin
  • 1925 L'Ocean Bleu
  • 1926 Royal Lilas
  • 1928 Ferveur, reissued in 1947
  • 1929 Jardin Secret
  • 1930 Gardenia
  • 1930 Ghardaia
  • 1930 Jasmin Deluxe
  • 1930 L'Eau de Lubin
  • 1933 Nuit de Longchamp
  • 1934 Fumee de Lubin, reissued in 1951
  • 1935 Jasmin du Nil
  • 1935 Lilas d'Avril
  • 1935 Muguet des Bois
  • 1935 Rose Liberty
  • 1936 Mekong
  • 1937 Ouvrez Moi
  • 1941 Ferveur (relaunched)
  • 1946 Envie
  • 1947 Gin Fizz
  • 1951 Fumee de Lubin (relaunched)
  • 1956 Nuit de Longchamp (relaunched)
  • 1957 Son Fils et Lui
  • 1960 L de Lubin
  • 1962 Idole
  • 1968 L'Eau Neuve
  • 1968 Eau de Toilettes Nuit de Longchamp
  • 1974 L de Lubin (relaunched)
  • 1981 Rouge
  • 2005 Idole de Lubin (reformulated and relaunched)
  • 2007 Le Vetiver
  • 2008 L de Lubin (reformulated and relaunched)
  • 2008 L'Eau Neuve (reformulated and relaunched)
  • 2008 Nuit de Longchamp (reformulated and relaunched)
  • 2009 Gin Fizz (reformulated and relaunched)
  • 2009 Le Vetiver - Bluff
  • 2010 L'Eau Neuve - Figaro
  • 2010 L'Eau Neuve - Inédite
  • 2010 Le Vetiver - Itasca
  • 2011 Black Jade
  • 2011 Idole Eau de Parfum
  • 2012 Akkad
  • 2012 Galaad
  • 2012 Korrigan
  • 2015 Grisette
  • 2015 Upper Ten
  • Bouquet d'Canada
  • Bouquet de Manille
  • Bouquet de Nice
  • Bouquet du Prince de Galles
  • Bouquet du Val d'Andorre
  • Bouquet Reine de Portugal




Eau de Lubin was created in 1798  by Pierre-François Lubin; a citric masculine edt, classified A1m. Re-launched in 1897. Poster designed by Eugene Grasset.

Cuir de Russie by Lubin, is one of the oldest of the genre. Top notes: citrus. Middle notes: ylang ylang and jasmine. Base notes:  spices, vanilla, leather, balsamic notes.

Enigma, a parfum created in 1898; Re-launched in 1921. Later bottle presented in a pyramidal bottle which displayed a sphinx on one facet; designed by Julien Viard.
" It is said of one particular perfume: Enigma:  If all the sands were pearl, the waters nectar, and the rocks pure gold, then one could learn from Egypt's plains, the secret of this elegant odor. It is well named because it will not tell its secrets, but nonetheless, it is a beautiful perfume, delicate, agreeable and lasting."


In 1903, a perfume presentation called Le Triolet contained three perfumes, Suzie, Suzette and Suzon.

1908's Rose Liliputian was presented in a flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat, design #13.

Au Soleil from 1909 was presented in two different sized bottles designed by Maurice Depinoix and made by C. Depinoix et Fils, featured a lizard creeping up the neck of the bottle after a fly, which is poised on the stopper.

Bouquet de Papillions was presented in a box and flacon designed by Maurice Depinoix and made by C. Depinoix et Fils.

Douce France was presented in a bottle by Verrières Viard.

Eva was presented in a bottle designed by Julien Viard, featured a naked Eve as the stopper sitting on a four segmented round flacon. This bottle has two versions.

Kismet was presented in an enameled Cristalleries de Baccarat bottle in the shape of an elephant and mahout, the latter the stopper. Also presented in clear glass. Two versions exist, one with a red mahout and a blue mahout.

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