Saturday, July 18, 2015

Demi-Jour by Houbigant c1929 and c1987

Demi-Jour by Houbigant: launched in 1929.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a warm, woody-mossy-leafy chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot
  • Middle notes:
  • Base notes: sandalwood, tonka, patchouli, oak moss, ambergris, musk, cedar, labdanum



The New Yorker, Volume 15, 1939:
"Houbigant’s perfume Demi-Jour is a weird one, to be sure. On most skins it is highly sensuous and inviting, but on some it emerges as a light, refreshing scent. Either way, it is a beauty.  Popular in Europe, it has only  presently been brought here, and is to be found on the counters of Saks-Fifth Avenue, Altman and Lord & Taylor."

Harper's Bazaar, 1939:
""Demi Jour," the name of Houbigant's newest perfume, means "Twilight." The delicate scent is strangely haunting once you've used it. The large size, $18.50."

The New Yorker, 1939:
"Houbigant: Demi Jour, the latest, is such a warm, subtle perfume that people might even think it was a part of you."

Esquire, 1939:
"Houbigant's versatile Demi- Jour, a subtly defined, distinctive scent, combining dignity and elegance for town. Grenoville's frankly sexy, exotic Piege for the "oomph" girl of 1939. "

Fodor's France, 1951:
"Houbigant, 19, Faubourg Saint-Honore. "Chantilly" — delicate, well-liked by active young women ; "Demi- jour" — tea-for-two sort of perfume ; "Fougere Royale" —for men ; "Presence" — velvety, lasting ; "Quelques Fleurs" — fresh, flowery."

La vie parisienne sous l'occupation, 1940-1944, 1971:
"...tandis que Houbigant crée cinq nouveaux cocktails d'essences précieuses, capiteux avec 'Présence', miellé avec 'Transparence', sensuel avec 'Contraste' , soutenu avec 'Demi- jour' et printanier avec 'Floraison ."

Bottles:


Demi-Jour was housed in two different sized iridescent flacons, as well as a small disk shaped purse flacon which was housed in a black satin pouch.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 44, 1939:
"HOUBIGANT Houbigant makes a selective American introduction of their exquisite Parfum Demi-Jour, "Twilight," to fit the fashion lead of today. "Prettiness" is the vogue and Demi-Jour personifies it. Its presentation is in the most appealing feminine style. The brown moire coffret with light yellow crepe lining makes an attractive setting for the stunning iridescent flacon."






Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1956.





Demi-Jour by Houbigant: launched in 1987. The perfume was a resurrection of Houbigant's 1933 perfume of the same name. I am not sure if the notes are similar though.

Between 1994 and 1996 Houbigant entered into a series of licensing agreements with Dana Perfumes Corporation and Houbigant (1995) and the perfume was reformulated due to IFRA regulations concerning oakmoss and other ingredients. Many people report that the fragrance under the Dana name does not smell as it did when it was sold under the Houbigant name.

The 1987 version by Houbigant had an ancillary line which was quite expensive at the time, it included:
  • 150gr Dusting Powder, retailed for $71
  • 10ml Parfum, retailed for $165
  • 50ml Eau de Parfum Spray, retailed for $59
  • 100ml Eau de Parfum Spray, retailed for $89
  • 250ml Eau de Toilette, retailed for $120

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, violet and bergamot
  • Middle notes: orris root, jasmine, heliotrope, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley and rose
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, oakmoss and cedar

Today you can still find this perfume and body products online.
  • 0.10 oz (3ml) Parfum Splash Mini Flacon
  • 0.13 oz (4ml) Eau de Parfum Splash Mini Flacon
  • 0.33 oz (10ml) Parfum Splash
  • 0.25 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1 oz (30ml) Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 1.67 oz (50ml) Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 3.3 oz (100ml) Eau de Parfum Spray
  • 8.5 oz (250ml) Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 7.75 oz (230ml) Eau de Toilette Splash (Dana)
  • 2 oz Dusting Powder
  • 5.25 oz Poudre Parfumee Dusting Powder
  • 5 oz Crème Parfumee

Bottles:







Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.




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