Ellyn Deleith Parfums

Ellyn Deleith, Inc. was an American company based in New York City established in 1936. They produced several fragrances including their best known, Blue Flame.

In the early 1940s, Ellyn Deleith introduced a line of exquisite fragrances that captured the imagination of women seeking luxury and elegance during a time of global uncertainty. Deleith sourced high-quality oils and essences from Europe and other regions renowned for their perfumery expertise. These rare ingredients, carefully selected for their richness and complexity, were blended in America with domestic alcohol, creating a unique fusion of international sophistication and local craftsmanship. The result was a line of perfumes that offered a sensory escape into realms of luxury, blending exotic imports with the strength and spirit of American ingenuity.

The name Deleith chose for her collection, "Moods of Crystals," reflected both the emotional depth and visual splendor of the fragrances. Each perfume was housed in a glittering cut-glass bottle imported from Czechoslovakia, known for its exceptional craftsmanship in glassmaking. These bottles were more than just containers; they were jewels in their own right, symbolizing the dazzling and transformative power of scent. The facets of the crystal bottles caught the light, reflecting the sparkling essence of the fragrances inside, adding a layer of glamour that enhanced the overall experience. The decision to use imported crystal emphasized Deleith’s commitment to luxury, creating perfumes that were as beautiful to behold as they were to wear.

With its roots in both Europe and America, the "Moods of Crystals" line embodied the cosmopolitan spirit of the time. Ellyn Deleith’s vision brought together the best of global perfumery, crafting scents that captured different moods and atmospheres, each one a reflection of the multifaceted lives of the women who wore them. The introduction of this line during the early 1940s offered a touch of glamour and emotional resonance at a time when many were seeking beauty and comfort in everyday luxuries

The Perfumes of Ellyn Deleith:

• 1935 Pine (green colored woodsy eau de cologne)
• 1943 Dahlia or Dalilah (still sold in 1944)
• 1943 Blue Flame (still sold in 1965)
• 1943 Caprice Ellyn  (still sold in 1955)
• 1943 Ellyn's Secret  (still sold in 1955)
• 1943 Leigh
• 1943 Narcisse  (still sold in 1955)
• 1943 Rosadell  (still sold in 1955)
• 1944 Spindrift  (still sold in 1955)
• 1944 Pampa (still sold in 1955)
• 1944 Spectacle
• 1944 Jasmin
• 1944 Iola (light floral, dewy fresh fragrance)- still sold in 1955.

The "Mood of Crystals" Line:

Ellyn Deleith’s "Moods of Crystals" fragrance line, launched in the early 1940s, was an enchanting collection of scents that each evoked a unique emotional experience or "mood." These perfumes captured the essence of popular fragrances of the time while adding Deleith’s own distinctive touch. Each was designed to evoke a particular facet of a woman’s personality, while their names and compositions hinted at the emotions they were meant to inspire. Below is a detailed exploration of each fragrance and its evocative mood.

Blue Flame:

"Strange, unforgettable, deep, and warm," Blue Flame was the embodiment of "a haunting Oriental" fragrance. Reminiscent of Jean Patou's Joy, it combined rich floral notes with the sultry depth of oriental spices. The fragrance opened with sweet aldehydes and bright bergamot, but the heart revealed a lush bouquet of jasmine, rose, and tuberose. These heady florals gave way to a lingering base of sandalwood, amber, vanilla, and patchouli, creating a rich, long-lasting warmth. The "Blue Flame" name conjured an image of something mysterious and alluring, with a slow burn that lingers in memory. For women in the 1940s, this fragrance was an unforgettable experience, like the smoldering embers of a passionate evening. Blue Flame was the only Ellyn Deleith fragrance to last into the mid-1960s..

Rosadell:

Rosadell was a "sultry, tropical, and mysterious" perfume with a mood that evoked the "drama of midnight." Inspired by Lanvin's Arpege, this fragrance was an opulent, complex floral. The heart of Rosadell bloomed with ylang-ylang, jasmine, and rose, set against a spicy undertone of clove and musk. The tropical florals were grounded by a base of sandalwood and amber, making it both radiant and alluring. This fragrance created an air of mystery, perfect for evening wear, as women draped themselves in its luxurious essence. The sultry, exotic nature of Rosadell spoke to a woman who embraced intrigue and seduction.

Pampa:

"Pulsating, vibrant, and restless," Pampa was a fragrance that surged with energy, much like Dana's Tabu. This oriental perfume carried a bold and passionate character, with citrus top notes of bergamot and neroli, leading into a heart of spicy cloves, rich ylang-ylang, and carnation. The base was deep and earthy, featuring vetiver, benzoin, and vanilla, providing a grounding force to its vibrant opening. Pampa represented a woman with a rebellious spirit, always on the move and filled with restless energy, embodying the boldness of the era’s changing societal roles for women.

Ellyn's Secret:

"Sparkling, dry, and debonair," Ellyn’s Secret was a confident fragrance with a "mood of triumph" and sophistication, akin to Chanel No. 5. Opening with the crispness of aldehydes and neroli, it quickly gave way to a heart of rose, jasmine, and lily of the valley. The dry, woody base of sandalwood and vetiver added depth and lasting power, making it a perfect fragrance for formal occasions. For women in the 1940s, Ellyn’s Secret represented elegance and confidence, capturing the spirit of victory and self-assuredness, as the world moved out of the darkness of war.

Iola:

"Light, floral, and dewy fresh," Iola exuded the "enchantment of youth." It was a delicate, airy floral bouquet reminiscent of spring mornings. Top notes of green leaves and soft citrus opened the fragrance, followed by a heart of lily of the valley, freesia, and violet. The base was soft, composed of white musk and orris root, adding a subtle warmth to the otherwise ethereal fragrance. Iola’s mood was one of innocence and optimism, making it ideal for young women or those looking to capture the essence of freshness and vitality. The scent was pure and enchanting, like a lighthearted flirtation on a sunny day.

Caprice-Ellyn:

"Heady, racy, and intoxicating," Caprice-Ellyn embodied a "mood of flame and danger," echoing the intensity of Guerlain's Shalimar. It opened with a burst of citrus—mandarin and bergamot, followed by a decadent heart of iris, jasmine, and rose. The dry-down revealed its true, seductive nature with a warm, sensual blend of tonka bean, opoponax, and vanilla. This was a fragrance for the femme fatale, a woman who relished in her allure and embraced life’s thrills. For the women of the 1940s, Caprice-Ellyn was a daring statement, reflecting the evolving, bolder personalities emerging after years of societal restraint.

Spindrift:

Spindrift was "so impudent, piquant, and tangy"—an adventurous fragrance designed for the more "reckless," "breathless" and playful moments of a woman’s life. The fragrance opened with zesty citrus and fruity accords, leading into a heart of fresh-cut grass, mint, and delicate floral blossoms. The light base of white musk and cedarwood added a hint of earthiness. Spindrift was carefree and full of energy, perfect for casual, fun outings. This fragrance resonated with women who embraced spontaneity, fun, and a sense of humor, capturing the post-war desire for levity and joy.

Narcisse:

Narcisse was "light yet sparkling, intoxicating," and embodied a "mood of pure ecstasy," akin to Evyan's White Shoulders. The fragrance opened with citrus and aldehydes, leading into a heart of white flowers—narcissus, orange blossom, and jasmine. The base of soft musk and sandalwood gave it just enough depth to make it alluring without being overwhelming. Narcisse captured the delicate beauty of a woman in love, evoking feelings of passion and intimacy. It was a fragrance that "invited closeness," perfect for romantic evenings, whispering of tenderness and sweet attraction.

Together, these perfumes showcased the range of emotions and experiences that defined femininity in the 1940s. Ellyn Deleith’s "Moods of Crystals" collection was an olfactory journey through passion, elegance, mystery, and youth, each fragrance offering a distinct mood designed to reflect the many facets of a woman’s life. The fragrances were not just scents, but emotional experiences in glittering glass bottles.

Bottles:

During the Second World War, global trade routes were severely disrupted, making it difficult, if not impossible, to import luxury goods from countries directly affected by the conflict. This was particularly true for non-essential items such as perfume bottles, as raw materials and manufacturing capacities were redirected to support the war effort. For Ellyn Deleith, whose "Moods of Crystals" line may have originally relied on the exquisite cut-glass bottles imported from Czechoslovakia, the impact was profound. Czechoslovakia, occupied by Nazi Germany, saw its industries controlled by the war machine, leaving no room for the production of luxury goods for export. The blockade on imports and the prioritization of wartime needs made the flow of such beautifully crafted bottles nearly impossible.

In response to these challenges, Deleith adapted by turning to American glassmakers to keep her line of perfumes alive and thriving. She sought out reputable domestic companies like Pairpoint-Gundersen and Imperial Glass Company, both of which had long-standing traditions of glass artistry in the United States. These glass houses rose to the occasion, producing finely crafted bottles that maintained the luxurious aesthetic Deleith had originally envisioned for her perfumes. While different in origin, these American-made bottles embodied the same dedication to quality and beauty, filling the void left by the now-unavailable imports from Europe.

Starting in 1943, the practicalities of the ongoing war meant that domestic production continued to be a more reliable option. For the rest of the decade, until about 1948, these elegant American bottles were the face of the "Moods of Crystals" line. Despite the wartime limitations, the perfumes continued to evoke luxury and elegance, with the glittering domestic glass bottles serving as a testament to both the resilience of the American glass industry and Deleith's commitment to quality during challenging times. These bottles, like the fragrances they housed, became symbols of beauty and perseverance in a world where luxury was a fleeting but cherished commodity.

incorporated in 1941.