Shocking by Schiaparelli c1936

The perfume "Shocking" by Elsa Schiaparelli was launched in a period marked by dramatic societal changes and a flourishing of artistic innovation. The year was 1936 in France and 1937 in the USA, an era still feeling the aftershocks of the Great Depression, yet brimming with a spirit of recovery and defiance against convention. The fashion world, particularly in Paris, was a beacon of this defiant creativity. Elsa Schiaparelli, a leading couturier, was renowned for her avant-garde designs that often bordered on the surreal. She was a contemporary and rival of Coco Chanel, known for pushing the boundaries of fashion and art.

Schiaparelli's connection to perfumes was influenced significantly by her mentor, Paul Poiret, one of the first designers to incorporate perfumes into his couture offerings. Poiret recognized that a signature scent could encapsulate and enhance the allure of his fashion creations, and Schiaparelli embraced this philosophy wholeheartedly. By adding perfumes to her line, Schiaparelli not only followed in Poiret's footsteps but also carved out a distinctive identity for her brand, blending fashion with fragrance to create a complete sensory experience.

The name "Shocking" was a deliberate and bold choice. It was inspired by a particular shade of hot pink that Schiaparelli herself dubbed "Shocking Pink," a color that became a hallmark of her brand. This vivid, attention-grabbing hue was not just a color but a statement—a challenge to the muted tones and conservative sensibilities of the time. Naming the perfume "Shocking" was a way to encapsulate this daring spirit in a scent. It was a name that promised excitement, audacity, and a break from the ordinary, much like Schiaparelli's fashion designs.

"Shocking" was an appropriate name for the perfume because it encapsulated the essence of Schiaparelli's brand: unexpected, provocative, and unforgettable. The word "Shocking" itself evokes images of boldness and intensity. It suggests a jolt to the senses, something that disrupts the norm and demands attention. For a perfume, it implies a scent that is powerful and memorable, one that leaves a lasting impression.

The perfume "Shocking" would have resonated with women who identified with Schiaparelli's daring and unconventional style. These were women who were not afraid to stand out and make a statement. They would have responded to "Shocking" with a sense of empowerment and delight, reveling in a scent that matched their bold personalities. This perfume would appeal to the modern woman of the 1930s who embraced new freedoms and expressed her individuality through fashion and fragrance.

The word "Shocking" evokes images of vibrant energy and fearless innovation. It conjures feelings of excitement, surprise, and a bit of rebellion. For those who wore "Shocking," it would be a badge of their daring spirit, a declaration of their willingness to defy expectations and revel in their unique style. This perfume was not just a fragrance but an embodiment of the audacious and avant-garde ethos that Schiaparelli championed, making it an iconic creation that continues to resonate with those who appreciate bold artistry and fearless self-expression.

Created by the talented perfumer Jean Carles, "Shocking" was said to have been initially developed for Schiaparelli's personal use. This intimate origin story added to its allure, suggesting a scent so captivating that it was initially reserved for the designer herself. According to a 1938 newspaper ad, this personal touch added a layer of exclusivity and allure, enticing customers with the promise of a scent that carried the personal imprimatur of one of fashion's most innovative minds.

In her 1943 book "This is Fashion," author Elizabeth Burris-Meyer provides insight into Elsa Schiaparelli's innovative use of color. She notes that in 1936, Schiaparelli introduced a vibrant shade known as Parlor Pink, which was a member of the magenta family. This bold hue evolved and gained iconic status in 1938 when it became famous as Shocking Pink, distinguished by its slightly less blue cast. This progression highlights Schiaparelli's keen eye for color and her ability to transform and popularize a specific shade, embedding it into the fashion lexicon. Shocking Pink's striking and audacious nature perfectly encapsulated the designer's avant-garde spirit and her flair for creating visually arresting, memorable fashion statements.

In her autobiography, Shocking Life, Elsa explains how Shocking perfume got its name:

"The colour flashed in front of my eyes. Bright, impossible, imprudent, becoming, life-giving, like all the light and the birds and the fish in the world put together, a colour of China and Peru but not of the West - a shocking colour, pure and undiluted. So I called the perfume "Shocking." The presentation would be shocking and most of the accessories and gowns would be shocking. It caused a mild panic amongst my friends and executives, who began to say that I was crazy and that nobody would want it because it was really "n*gger pink." "What of it? Negroes are sometimes strikingly smart."

Shocking is one of those intense classic perfumes that never seem to lose their luster. Truly a gem in the world of perfumes, it still manages to inspire sensuality and confidence in the woman who wears it well.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The perfume is classified as a woody floral oriental fragrance for women. It starts off with an aldehydic, flowery top, followed by a sweet, honey accented floral heart of rose and jasmine, layered over a sensual, warm, animalic base. It was reportedly built around the aroma of tobacco.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, estragon, raspberry, Chinese gardenia, Grasse syringa, Dutch hyacinth
• Middle notes: Georgia magnolia, Grasse rose, Provencal honey, oriental rose, Grasse jasmine, French carnation, Nossi-Ne ylang ylang, Dutch narcissus
• Base notes: Virginian tobacco, Mysore sandalwood, Arabian frankincense, Lebanese cedar, Singapore patchouli, Java vetiver, Yugoslavia oakmoss, Mexican vanilla, Tibetan musk, ambergris, Zanzibar cloves, Abyssinian civet

Vogue, 1936:

"Shocking by Schiaparelli. Like a drum roll it expands. Insinuating, warm, bold, persevering."

La Femme Chic, 1945:

"While you will prefer Shocking by Schiaparelli if your real country is Paris and Place Vendome. Based on jasmine, rather fresh, but nevertheless heady, Shocking smells of Paris; the Avenue des Acacias, a spring evening in the Champs- Elysees, tea time at the Ritz."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Shocking by Schiaparelli: No, it doesn't shock, it captivates...It's elegant, it's refined; Shocking, offers itself to you in a crystal mannequin; it's a real dress of perfumes that dresses all women ."

Shocking is a perfume that I could never wear, it always seemed too grown up for me, so it wasn't until I was in my mid 30s, that I fully understood the beauty of this audacious scent. I had some vintage parfum that a reader sent to me several years ago - gratis, along with some other older perfumes, like Salut de Schiaparelli, Fougere Royale by Houbigant, Dawamesk and Mitsouko by Guerlain.

When I applied the parfum, its initial blast of aldehydes make me scrunch up my nose, as the top notes have soured over the years, then it settled down into a heady, woody, spicy, dirty civet laden, honey dripped roses dream. I couldn't stop sniffing my arm. It was THAT good. The incense like drydown reminded me of vintage Toujours Moi parfum.

Shared notes between perfumes: aldehydes, bergamot, raspberry, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, frankincense, honey, carnation, patchouli, ambergris, sandalwood, musk, vetiver, vanilla, oakmoss.

Scent Story:

It was a warm evening in Paris in 1936, the air humming with anticipation as the elite of the fashion world gathered in Elsa Schiaparelli's opulent salon for her latest fashion show. The room was a symphony of elegance, adorned with lush pink flowers that created a vibrant backdrop. As the audience settled into their seats, they were enveloped by the delicate, intoxicating scent of fresh blooms mingling with the subtle hint of something more intriguing—Schiaparelli’s newest creation, the perfume "Shocking."

The show began with a parade of models, each adorned in stunning couture pieces or accessories all featuring the now-iconic "Shocking Pink." The bold color, with its slightly less blue cast, electrified the room, drawing gasps and whispers of admiration. Under the soft glow of crystal chandeliers, the models moved gracefully, their garments shimmering and flowing with each step.

As the last model took her place, the lights dimmed, and Schiaparelli herself emerged, radiant and poised. She held a bottle of "Shocking" aloft—a masterpiece in itself, shaped like a dressmaker's dummy and decorated with tiny glass flowers. The audience leaned forward, eager to learn more about this mysterious new scent.

"Ladies and gentlemen," Schiaparelli began, her voice smooth and captivating, "I am delighted to introduce you to 'Shocking,' a perfume as audacious and unforgettable as the woman who wears it. This fragrance is a symphony of aromas, beginning with a lively burst of aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, estragon, raspberry, Chinese gardenia, Grasse syringa, and Dutch hyacinth. These top notes dance playfully, creating an immediate allure."

As she spoke, the audience could almost smell the vibrant top notes, a tantalizing mix of citrus and floral that seemed to float through the air.

"The heart of 'Shocking' is a rich, sweet blend," she continued, "with Georgia magnolia, Grasse rose, Provencal honey, oriental rose, Grasse jasmine, French carnation, Nossi-Ne ylang ylang, and Dutch narcissus. These floral notes, accented with a touch of honey, envelop you in a warm, enchanting embrace."

The air in the room grew thicker, more seductive, as if the flowers themselves had come to life, releasing their deepest scents.

"And finally," Schiaparelli said, her eyes sparkling, "the base of 'Shocking' reveals its true depth: Virginian tobacco, Mysore sandalwood, Arabian frankincense, Lebanese cedar, Singapore patchouli, Java vetiver, Yugoslavia oakmoss, Mexican vanilla, Tibetan musk, ambergris, Zanzibar cloves, and Abyssinian civet. These notes intertwine, leaving a sensual, lasting impression."

Schiaparelli paused, allowing the audience to absorb the breadth of luxurious ingredients. "We have sourced the finest raw materials from around the world," she explained. "From the tobacco of Virginia to the sandalwood of Mysore, the frankincense of Arabia to the cedar of Lebanon. Each element has been carefully selected to create a perfume that is not just a fragrance, but a journey."

The room was silent, every guest enraptured by the sensory journey Schiaparelli described. The lingering scent of incense and cedar, mingled with the earthy richness of patchouli and vetiver, and the sweetness of vanilla and amber, created a heady, intoxicating aura. The faint spice of cloves and the animalic undertone of civet added a layer of complexity, making "Shocking" not just a perfume, but an experience.

From the aisles, the scent was palpable, almost touchable. The air was thick with the luxurious aroma, mingling with the delicate scent of the pink flowers that adorned the room. Guests could taste the excitement in the air, a blend of anticipation and admiration, sweet and heady like the honeyed heart of the perfume. The soft rustle of silk and tulle, the whisper of fabric brushing against skin, and the gentle hum of appreciation from the audience created a symphony of sounds that completed the experience.

Schiaparelli’s voice carried over the crowd, her words a caress that seemed to touch each guest, inviting them to become part of this bold, fragrant world. As the show concluded, the room erupted in applause, the audience enchanted and captivated by the bold new creation. "Shocking" by Schiaparelli was not just a perfume; it was a statement, a bold declaration of individuality and audacity that perfectly encapsulated the essence of its creator.

Bottles:

"Shocking" by Schiaparelli was presented in various bottles over the years, each reflecting the evolving aesthetic and branding of the perfume. Initially, the iconic dressmaker dummy flacon adorned with tiny glass flowers captivated audiences with its unique, couture-inspired design. Subsequent versions featured the same distinctive shape but were embellished with different decorative elements, such as intricate glass patterns or metallic accents, to keep the presentation fresh and appealing. Later editions saw more streamlined and modern interpretations of the original design, with some bottles boasting sleek, minimalist lines and others featuring elaborate art deco motifs. By examining these variations, one can trace the perfume's rich history and better identify the age of their own bottle, appreciating the craftsmanship and artistic evolution that "Shocking" underwent through the decades.

The Galveston Daily News, 1947:

"Schiaparelli's famous scent . ....Shocking. Schiaparelli's Dusting Powder 3.75, Schiaparelli's Shocking Cologne 5.00, Schiaparelli's Shocking Sachets 3.50."

The Dressmaker Dummy Bottle:

While working for Elsa Schiaparelli, the talented surrealist artist Leonor Fini designed the flacon for the parfum "Shocking," drawing inspiration from the dressmaker dummy of the iconic Mae West. This entrancing container was a marvel of design, a surrealist masterpiece housed under a Gay-90's crystal dome, hand-etched with Schiaparelli's signature. A spray of bright flowers adorned the top, symbolizing the lovely escaping scent, while a seamstress tape certified its high fashion origin. The entire presentation was encased in the famous shocking-pink satin box, capturing the essence of Schiaparelli's bold and innovative spirit.

The creation of this flacon was a complex and meticulous process, involving 20 separate parts made in three different countries, assembled by thirty skilled women. The tiny colored glass flowers, representing anemones, morning glories, and poppies, were blown in Murano, Italy. These fragile flowers came in baby blue, pink, red, yellow, and occasionally dark blue with contrasting stamens. Alongside them were two delicate green glass leaves, also crafted in Murano, Italy, and both were attached to wires wrapped with green florist's tape. The wires were gathered like a nosegay, twisted into a point, and secured with a measuring tape.

The bottle itself featured a frosted glass stopper with gilding on the dauber, a gilt baudruchage cord wrapped around the neck, and an onionskin membrane seal. The bottle was made in France and adorned with a silk-screened cotton tape measure and a gold "navel" label embossed with the "S" logo for Schiaparelli. The entire ensemble was protected by a clear, fragile blown glass dome imported from Czechoslovakia, decorated with a white lace pattern silk-screened onto it. The bottle rested on a pink velvet cushion set on a gold platform, with a pink velvet base completing the luxurious presentation.

Each element of the bottle, from the glass morning glory with its contrasting glass pistil to the overall design, reflected the meticulous craftsmanship and artistic vision that defined Schiaparelli's work. This flacon was not just a container for perfume; it was a work of art, a testament to the creativity and dedication of those who brought it to life.

1. The tiny colored glass flowers represent anemones, morning glories and poppies. The fragile flowers were blown in Murano, Italy. The colors are baby blue, pink, red, yellow and sometimes dark blue with contrasting stamens.
2. Two fragile green glass leaves, also blown in Murano, Italy.
3. Wires attached behind the pierced flowers and pierced leaves
4. Wires wrapped with green florist's tape.
5. Wires gathered like a nosegay, twisted into a point and held in place with a measuring tape. 
6. Frosted glass stopper 
7. Gilding on frosted glass dauber
8. Gilt baudruchage cord wrapped around neck of bottle
9. Onionskin membrane seal
10. Bottle Made in France
11. Silk-Screened cotton tape measure
12. Gold "navel" label
13. "S" logo for Schiaparelli embossed on "navel" label to be placed over tape measure
14. Clear, fragile blown glass dome imported from Czechoslovakia
15. White lace pattern silk-screened on glass dome
16. Pink velvet cushion for bottle
17. Gold platform for pink cushion
18. Pink velvet base for gold platform
19. Perfume
20. Closeup of glass morning glory with contrasting glass pistil

Originally, the bottles for "Shocking" by Schiaparelli were crafted in Czechoslovakia, with some contemporary newspaper advertisements specifically noting the glass was "Bohemian." However, other sources claim the bottles were of French origin. Regardless of their exact provenance, these bottles were exquisitely designed and became iconic. They were fitted with tiny colored glass flowers, molded from either Czechoslovakian or Murano blown glass, depending on the source. These delicate flowers were artfully wrapped around the neck of the bottle in a charming bouquet, adding a touch of whimsy and elegance.

To further emphasize the haute couture connection, a faux tape measure was glued over the bust of the bottle, emblazoned with the words "Shocking" and "Schiaparelli," serving as the perfume's label. This detail highlighted the fashion-centric theme that Schiaparelli was famous for.

The resulting bottle was housed in an elegant glass domed case, accented with printed white lace. These domed glass "bell jar" cases were not unique to Schiaparelli; they were also used by other perfume companies of the era, such as Bab's Creations for "Yesteryear" (1939) and Elizabeth Arden for "It's You" (1938). The fragile glass domes evoked romantic Victorian-era notions, a style that saw a revival in the late 1930s and early 1940s.

The entire ensemble was then packaged in a stunning shocking pink presentation box, lined with luxurious shocking pink satin. Over the years, various editions of this presentation box were launched, reflecting changing styles and tastes, but always maintaining the bold and innovative spirit that defined Elsa Schiaparelli's work. This combination of intricate design, artistic detail, and luxurious packaging made "Shocking" not just a perfume, but a statement piece that encapsulated the essence of high fashion and timeless elegance.

The dressmaker bottle came in four sizes, ranging from 4 3/4 inches tall to a 1 3/4 inch miniature size. Notably, the 1/3 oz bottle that came in a leather travel pouch dates to after 1948. 

"Shocking" by Schiaparelli, known for its iconic torso-shaped flacon, was initially introduced in a single size of 1 3/4 ounces, retailing for $27.50. This larger size exemplified luxury and exclusivity, reflecting the bold and innovative spirit of Schiaparelli's designs. However, in 1938, responding to demand and market trends, a smaller size was introduced, approximately 7/8 ounces (about 3/4 ounces), which retailed for $12. This more affordable option made the perfume accessible to a wider audience while maintaining its distinctive allure and craftsmanship.

Among the various sizes offered, the smallest was the adorable miniature, holding just one dram (1/8 ounce). These miniature bottles featured a tiny brass screw cap and were often presented in charming novelty presentations, adding to their collectible appeal and making them popular among perfume enthusiasts.

The range of bottle sizes included:

• The original 1 3/4 ounce bottle, sometimes rounded up to 2 inches in old advertisements, standing tall with its distinctive torso design.
• The smaller approximately 7/8 ounce (about 3/4 ounce) bottle, introduced in 1938, standing 4 inches tall.
• A 1/2 ounce bottle, standing 2 7/8 inches tall.
• A 1/3 ounce bottle, also known as the 1979 10ml version, standing 3.14 inches tall.
• The dram bottle, standing 2 inches tall, known for its miniature size and collectible nature.

Each size of the "Shocking" perfume bottle not only offered varying amounts of the fragrance but also showcased the evolution of its packaging and presentation over the years, reflecting the changing tastes and demands of consumers while maintaining the timeless elegance and artistry of Elsa Schiaparelli's vision.

"Book of Hearts" Presentation:

One of the distinctive presentations of "Shocking" by Schiaparelli was the "Book of Hearts," designed to resemble a bound book. Its green velvet spine was elegantly stamped in gold with the name of the perfume and Schiaparelli, adding a touch of literary charm to the packaging. Inside this luxurious case was housed the cube-stoppered bottle of "Shocking," typically in a half-ounce size. This unique presentation not only showcased the perfume in a novel and artistic manner but also underscored Schiaparelli's penchant for combining high fashion with whimsical and creative packaging designs. The "Book of Hearts" presentation exemplified the brand's commitment to luxury and innovation, offering perfume enthusiasts a collectible piece that was as stylish as it was memorable.

 

Travel Flacon:

The miniature dressmaker dummy bottle of "Shocking" by Schiaparelli was not only a charming collectible but also designed for practicality, as evidenced by its availability in a leather travel pouch. This miniature bottle, holding 1/3 ounce of parfum, was housed in a luxurious leather case, indicating its production after 1948. The bottle itself stands at a compact 2.75 inches tall, making it ideal for travel while still maintaining the perfume's distinctive design and elegance. This combination of artistic flair and functional design ensured that even on the go, "Shocking" maintained its allure and luxury, catering to both collectors and those seeking the perfect scent for any occasion.

  

Baccarat Cube Stopper Bottles:

First introduced in 1938 and prominently used throughout the 1940s, the clear glass bottle designed to contain pure parfum became a standard for several Schiaparelli fragrances, including "Shocking," as well as others such as So Sweet, Sleeping, Salut, Le Roy Soleil, and Zut. This particular bottle style was notably more restrained compared to the elaborate designs seen before World War II, reflecting the wartime restrictions on imports, especially of glass and supplies from countries like Czechoslovakia and Italy. During this period, even luxury perfume houses like Schiaparelli had to adhere to austerity measures, opting for simpler, more practical designs.

Manufactured domestically in France, this bottle, known as Baccarat model #788, was exclusive to Schiaparelli. It featured a tall, upright rectangular shape that exuded elegance and understated sophistication. The bottle's distinctive faceted glass cube served as the stopper, with the smallest size including a dauber attached to the stopper for easy application. Typically, the base of the bottle was molded with the words "Schiaparelli" and "French Bottle," emphasizing its origin and quality craftsmanship. This design not only ensured practicality and compliance with wartime restrictions but also maintained the brand's commitment to quality and aesthetic appeal, albeit in a more subdued manner suited to the challenging times of the 1940s.

This bottle came in various sizes:

• 1/4 oz stands 2.5" tall. (this stopper has an attached dauber)
• 1/2 oz stands 3" tall.
• 1 oz stands 3.5" tall.
• 4 oz stands 3.75" tall.

These are the various measurements of the bottles I have found online.

• 2 3/8" tall 
• 2 1/2" tall = 1/4 oz 
• 3" tall = 1/2 oz 
• 3 1/2" tall = 1 oz 
• 3 5/8" tall = 1 oz
• 3 3/4" tall = 4 oz
• 4 1/2" tall = 2 oz 
• 4 3/8" tall

The bottle was also used for the "Beau Geste" presentation which featured hands offering the flacon of perfume and faux flowers.. Its acetate cover was printed with a lace pattern.

Eau de Colognes:

By 1938, "Shocking" by Schiaparelli expanded its offerings to include a cologne concentration alongside its parfum. Initially, the cologne was presented in a modified version of the iconic dressmaker dummy bottle, maintaining continuity with the perfume's distinctive and whimsical design. However, as time progressed, subsequent cologne bottles adopted a more simplified aesthetic, favoring cylindrical shapes that diverged from the elaborate dressmaker dummy motif. This evolution in bottle design reflected the perfume industry's adaptation to changing consumer preferences and practical considerations, ensuring that "Shocking" remained accessible and appealing in different concentrations while adapting to evolving trends in packaging and presentation.

The Stage, 1938:

"Schiaparelli is launching a Shocking cologne, in the dressmaker's- dummy bottle."

Eau de Parfum:

In 1964, "Shocking" by Schiaparelli introduced a modern iteration in the form of an Eau de Parfum Mist, packaged in a 3 oz aerosol perfume. This innovation offered a convenient and contemporary way to apply the fragrance, reflecting the evolving tastes and lifestyles of the era. 

However, collectors and enthusiasts should note some considerations when purchasing vintage aerosol bottles of "Shocking" or similar fragrances. Over time, the plastic spray mechanism inside these bottles can deteriorate, potentially affecting the fragrance's application and longevity. Additionally, the propellant used in aerosol bottles can alter the scent of the perfume as it ages, impacting its original composition. 

Moreover, due to the nature of aerosol packaging, there is a risk of leakage during transit, especially when shipped by air. These factors underscore the importance of careful storage and handling when acquiring vintage aerosol bottles of "Shocking," ensuring that its iconic scent is preserved and enjoyed as intended despite the passage of time.

Solid Perfume:

"Shocking" by Schiaparelli extended its charm and accessibility through delightful heart-shaped lockets that contained solid perfume. These lockets were not just functional but also stylishly adorned with lattice designs studded with vibrant hot pink rhinestones, adding a touch of glamour and sophistication. The incorporation of such intricate details elevated these lockets beyond mere containers, transforming them into fashionable accessories suitable for both keychains and necklaces. This dual-purpose design made them popular among fans of the fragrance, offering a portable and decorative way to carry and apply "Shocking" throughout the day.

The combination of a heart shape, symbolic of love and elegance, with the striking contrast of hot pink rhinestones against the lattice pattern, mirrored the bold and daring spirit associated with Schiaparelli's creations. These lockets not only reflected the perfume's iconic color and design elements but also contributed to its allure as a collectible item among perfume enthusiasts and fashion aficionados alike. By merging functionality with aesthetic appeal, Schiaparelli's heart-shaped lockets enriched the sensory experience of wearing "Shocking," blending fragrance with fashion in a uniquely captivating manner.

Ancillary Products:

"Shocking" by Schiaparelli expanded its allure beyond perfume alone, offering a range of complementary products that enhanced the overall experience of its iconic fragrance. From soaps to dusting powders, talc, lotion, rouge, and lipstick, each product bore the distinctive essence of "Shocking," catering to diverse consumer preferences and enhancing the brand's presence in the beauty market. These matching products not only complemented the perfume but also allowed enthusiasts to indulge in a complete sensory journey enveloped in Schiaparelli's signature scent.

One standout addition to the line was the Bath Essence, introduced in 1939. Promoted for its potent fragrance, a mere ten drops of this essence could suffuse an entire bath with the luxurious aroma of "Shocking," providing a lavish bathing experience that echoed the sophistication and opulence of the perfume itself. This product exemplified Schiaparelli's commitment to offering a multi-sensory experience, where every aspect of personal care resonated with the brand's distinctive identity.

In 1941, the launch of the Shocking Talcum further enriched the product line. Renowned for its highly scented formulation, this talcum powder imparted a lingering fragrance that was ideal for warmer months. Its non-streaky texture ensured a smooth application, enhancing the skin with a delicate veil of fragrance while providing practical benefits for daily use. The introduction of such meticulously crafted products underscored Schiaparelli's dedication to extending the allure of "Shocking" beyond perfume, offering enthusiasts a comprehensive range of beauty essentials that embodied the essence of timeless elegance and luxury.

All items in Schiaparelli's expansive line of Shocking products were elegantly packaged in the iconic shocking pink cartonnage, often adorned with printed lace accents that added a touch of romance and sophistication. This distinctive packaging not only ensured consistency across the brand's range but also captivated the attention of shoppers with its vibrant interplay of red, gold, and white hues. Whether it was the Shocking scented lipstick, rouge, or face powder containers, each item was meticulously designed to evoke a sense of luxury and allure, reflecting the bold spirit of Schiaparelli's Shocking perfume.

During the 1950s, Schiaparelli extended the appeal of Shocking beyond perfume with the introduction of the "So Sweet" makeup line, which was infused with the same captivating scent. This innovative approach fused fragrance with cosmetics, offering consumers a cohesive beauty experience that harmonized with the essence of Shocking. Among these offerings, the Vivacious lipstick from the Shocking perfume line stood out, embodying the vibrancy and allure associated with Schiaparelli's iconic fragrance. Packaged in the trademark shocking pink and adorned with elegant details, these cosmetics not only enhanced beauty but also celebrated the spirit of daring and sophistication that defined Schiaparelli's legacy in the world of fashion and beauty.

Introduced in 1939, Schiaparelli's scented bath sponges offered a delightful and innovative way to experience the luxurious aroma of Shocking. These small, fluffy round pads were compact and dry in their packaging, intriguingly unassuming until they met bathwater. Upon contact with water, these sponges transformed magically, blossoming into large, soft washcloths imbued with the distinctive scent of Shocking. This unique feature not only enhanced the bathing experience but also added a touch of novelty and luxury to everyday self-care routines.

The scented bath sponges exemplified Schiaparelli's commitment to combining innovation with elegance, ensuring that every aspect of the Shocking product line resonated with the brand's distinctive flair. By infusing these sponges with the same captivating fragrance found in Shocking perfume, Schiaparelli created a cohesive sensory experience that captivated consumers and reinforced the perfume's iconic status in the beauty industry. The bath sponges, with their transformative quality and luxurious scent, epitomized the brand's dedication to creating memorable and indulgent products that elevated personal care to a new level of sophistication and delight.

Who could indeed resist the charming allure of Schiaparelli's adorable heart-shaped or dressmaker dummy-shaped bath soaps, tinted in the signature shocking pink hue? These exquisite bath soaps, a testament to Schiaparelli's penchant for merging artistry with functionality, are not only a delightful addition to any beauty regimen but also a rare find in today's market. Their scarcity makes them a coveted item among collectors and enthusiasts alike, prompting those fortunate enough to come across them to seize the opportunity, especially if offered at a reasonable price.

The heart-shaped and dressmaker dummy-shaped bath soaps encapsulate Schiaparelli's commitment to elegance and luxury, embodying the essence of her iconic Shocking fragrance in every detail. Their distinctive shapes and vibrant pink color not only enhance bathroom decor but also evoke a sense of whimsy and sophistication, transforming an everyday routine into a moment of indulgence. As these treasures from Schiaparelli's beauty legacy become increasingly scarce, acquiring them becomes not just a purchase but a cherished acquisition that preserves a piece of fashion and beauty history.

From 1948:

"A dual gift of Valentine significance is Schiaparelli's "Two Shocking" a heart-shaped cake of soap plus a small bottle of Shocking perfume. This fragrant pair is ribbon-trimmed and attractively packed in a gift box at $5 at Saks Fifth Avenue."

List of Special Presentations:

During the 1930s and 1940s, the perfume industry faced intense competition exacerbated by the economic challenges of the Great Depression and World War II. With consumer spending constrained, perfume companies needed innovative strategies to attract customers and encourage them to invest in luxury items like fragrances. One effective tactic was the use of vibrant and imaginative packaging that not only protected the perfume but also served as a visual enticement.

Elsa Schiaparelli emerged as a trailblazer in the realm of perfume presentation during this era. Renowned for her creative genius, she pioneered designs that captivated women's imaginations. Schiaparelli's approach was marked by a daring combination of materials such as glass, fabric, plaster, metal, and early plastics like acetate. This unconventional mix allowed her to circumvent wartime restrictions on traditional packaging supplies, ensuring that her perfumes maintained their allure and quality despite the challenges of the times.

Schiaparelli's packaging designs were not merely functional but also artistic statements that reflected her avant-garde sensibilities. Each creation, whether adorned with intricate glass flowers or housed in a surprising shape like a dressmaker dummy, conveyed a sense of luxury and innovation. By pushing the boundaries of conventional packaging, Schiaparelli not only differentiated her perfumes in a crowded market but also elevated the entire sensory experience of using her fragrances. Her legacy in perfume presentation continues to inspire, reminding us of the enduring power of creativity and ingenuity in the world of luxury goods.

Here are some of her fabulous presentations:

Shock-in-a-Box:

In 1938, Elsa Schiaparelli introduced the whimsical and innovative "Shock-in-a-Box" presentation for her Shocking perfume. This clever packaging concept was designed to surprise and delight customers, embodying Schiaparelli's penchant for blending fashion with playful creativity. The "Shock-in-a-Box" resembled a jack-in-the-box, a childhood toy that springs to life when its lid is lifted.

Upon opening the lid of the "Shock-in-a-Box," instead of a traditional jack-in-the-box figure, four purse-sized flacons of Shocking perfume were revealed. Each flacon was adorned with delicate flowers and crowned with a golden tinkle bell, adding a touch of elegance and whimsy to the presentation. This design not only showcased Schiaparelli's mastery of packaging as an art form but also enhanced the allure of Shocking perfume as a luxurious and delightful indulgence.

The "Shock-in-a-Box" exemplified Schiaparelli's ability to captivate consumers with innovative marketing strategies that went beyond traditional perfume presentations. By combining functionality with theatricality, she transformed the act of unboxing perfume into a memorable and enchanting experience. This unique approach not only distinguished Shocking perfume in a competitive market but also cemented Schiaparelli's reputation as a pioneer in perfume packaging and presentation.

Beau Geste:

In 1938, Schiaparelli continued to showcase her innovative flair with the introduction of "Beau Geste," a striking presentation that epitomized her surrealist aesthetic. This unique packaging featured a white plaster hand, sculpted in a surrealist style, delicately cradling a bottle of Shocking perfume. The hand was luxuriously cushioned in Shocking pink satin, adding a touch of opulence and softness to the avant-garde design.

The perfume bottle nestled within the hand-shaped cushion was Schiaparelli's classic design, characterized by its faceted glass cube stopper, which added a modern and geometric element to the overall composition. To enhance the visual impact, the entire ensemble was encased in crystal, further emphasizing the precious and artistic nature of the presentation. "Beau geste" is a French term that translates to "beautiful gesture" in English. 

"Beau Geste" not only showcased Schiaparelli's mastery in blending art with fashion but also underscored her ability to create perfume presentations that were both functional and visually captivating. By incorporating surrealist elements into the packaging, she invited consumers into a world of imagination and luxury, where every detail—from the hand-shaped cushion to the Shocking pink satin—spoke to the essence of her iconic Shocking perfume. This innovative approach not only elevated the perception of perfume as a luxury item but also solidified Schiaparelli's legacy as a visionary in both fashion and fragrance design.

Heart Shaped Sachet:

For Valentine's Day of 1939, Elsa Schiaparelli introduced a charming gift set featuring her iconic Shocking perfume. This delightful presentation consisted of a cute little heart-shaped box made from acetate, a material that was innovative for its time. Within this heart-shaped box, recipients would find a fragrant sachet alongside two miniature dram-sized bottles of Shocking perfume.

These miniature dressmaker dummy bottles were not only adorable in size but also perfectly portable, designed to fit discreetly into a handbag for easy access throughout the day. The sachet, imbued with the same intoxicating fragrance as the perfume, added a touch of luxury to everyday routines when placed in lingerie drawers.

This Valentine's Day gift set exemplified Schiaparelli's knack for combining practicality with elegance and romance. The heart-shaped acetate box, adorned with the Shocking pink color that became synonymous with Schiaparelli's brand, offered a delightful sensory experience, making it a cherished gift for loved ones during the romantic holiday season of 1939.

Shocking French Novel:

In 1939, Elsa Schiaparelli introduced a distinctive presentation for her Shocking perfume: the "Shocking French Novel" or "Book of Hearts". This presentation featured a 1/4 oz bottle of parfum housed inside a box designed to resemble a book. The exterior of the box was adorned with Schiaparelli's signature pink hearts, adding a whimsical and romantic touch to the packaging.

This novel-inspired presentation was not only innovative but also became iconic for its time. It cleverly combined the allure of literature with the luxury of perfume, appealing to both the senses and the aesthetic sensibilities of consumers. The "Shocking French Novel" or "Book of Hearts" presentation continued to captivate perfume enthusiasts for years, remaining in use well into the 1950s.

As described in Town & Country magazine in 1950, the Shocking Book of Hearts was praised for its elegance and sophistication. The satin-stripes on the box added a tactile richness, enhancing the overall sentiment of luxury and refinement associated with Schiaparelli's brand. This packaging design exemplified Schiaparelli's ability to blend artistry with commercial appeal, making the Shocking perfume not just a fragrance but a symbol of sophistication and style.

Town & Country, 1950:

"Schiaparelli's Shocking Book of Hearts is a satin - striped volume of sentiment with sophistication."

Set to Music:

In 1939, Elsa Schiaparelli introduced another innovative presentation for her Shocking perfume known as "Set to Music". This whimsical creation featured an Alpine chalet design adorned with four dram-size bottles shaped like dressmaker models, each containing Schiaparelli's iconic Shocking perfume. The chalet was designed with double doors that opened to reveal the bottles inside, creating a playful and theatrical effect.

What set "Set to Music" apart was its dual functionality as a music box. By touching a spring at the back, the chalet would come alive with the melody of "Amaryllis", adding a delightful auditory element to its visual charm. This combination of perfume, design, and music made "Set to Music" a unique and enchanting gift item, appealing to the glamorous and romantic sensibilities of the time.

As described in The New Yorker in 1939, Schiaparelli's Shocking perfume, with its bottle shaped like a dress form and adorned with flowers under a glass bell, continued to be revered as the epitome of glamour and sophistication among fashionable women. "Set to Music" specifically captured the imagination with its whimsical Alpine chalet motif and musical accompaniment, priced attractively at $10, making it a sought-after collector's item and a memorable piece of Schiaparelli's perfume legacy.

The New Yorker, 1939:

"Schiaparelli : Shocking, its bottle shaped like a dress form, tricked out with flowers, and sheltered by a glass bell, is still the ideal of glamour girls ... Set to Music consists of four bottles which revolve slowly through the doors of a little house while a music box plays; $10."

Spin & Win:

In 1939, Elsa Schiaparelli unveiled a playful and innovative presentation for her Shocking perfume called "Spin and Win". This unique creation mimicked a roulette wheel, adding an element of fun and excitement to the experience of opening a fragrance box. The box itself was covered in vibrant shocking pink paper adorned with white numbers, reminiscent of a roulette table. Inside, the lid was lined with shiny gold foil paper, enhancing the luxurious appeal of the presentation.

"Spin and Win" housed four miniature dram-size perfume bottles shaped like baby dressmaker dummies, each containing a half-dram of Schiaparelli's beloved Shocking fragrance. What made this presentation truly special was its spring mechanism: when the box was opened, the roulette wheel would spin, causing the miniature bottles to revolve playfully inside. This interactive feature not only added to the charm of the packaging but also reflected Schiaparelli's knack for merging fashion with playful ingenuity.

As reported in The New Yorker in 1939, "Spin and Win" was priced at $5, positioning it as an accessible yet delightful luxury item that captured the essence of Schiaparelli's glamorous and whimsical brand. The presentation was also noted in The Winnipeg Tribune, highlighting its joyful and novel concept that appealed to consumers seeking both style and entertainment in their perfume choices.

The New Yorker, 1939:

"Spin and Win, four little bottles of Shocking, whirl around like a roulette wheel when you open the box; $5."

The Winnipeg Tribune, 1939:

"Spin and Win" Schiaparelli's joyous "spin and win" roulette wheel setting holds four "baby" dressmaker dummies, each filled with a half - dram of "Shocking"$5."

Easter Egg:

In Easter of 1939, Elsa Schiaparelli introduced a charming and elegant presentation known as the "Easter Egg". This special edition was covered in luxurious rayon satin, featuring a print designed by the renowned artist Marcel Vertès. The egg-shaped container held a precious bottle of Schiaparelli's iconic Shocking perfume, adding a touch of glamour and sophistication to the Easter festivities.

The design by Marcel Vertès, known for his distinctive artistic style, embellished the rayon satin covering of the Easter Egg with a unique and beautiful print. This collaboration between Schiaparelli and Vertès not only celebrated the joyous occasion of Easter but also showcased the artistic flair and high fashion that both were renowned for.

The "Easter Egg" edition of Shocking perfume was a limited-time offering, capturing the spirit of the holiday with its opulent packaging and exquisite fragrance. It appealed to consumers looking for a special gift that combined luxury, artistry, and the unmistakable allure of Schiaparelli's creations.

Shocking Scamp:

The Shocking Scamp, introduced as a limited edition for Christmas of 1940, was a unique creation designed by Fulco de Verdura. It took the form of a charming figural fencer brooch intended to be worn on a lady's lapel, adding a touch of whimsy and elegance to any outfit. In a 1949 newspaper advertisement, it was also referred to as the "vest bottle," highlighting its dual function as both a decorative accessory and a perfume holder.

Crafted from enameled metal, the Shocking Scamp featured a cage-like design that housed a dram-sized bottle of Shocking perfume. The brooch stood approximately 5 1/2 inches tall, making it a distinctive and eye-catching piece of jewelry. To access the perfume, one simply needed to remove the head of the brooch, which cleverly served as the stopper for the perfume bottle inside.

Despite its popularity during its brief production period, the Shocking Scamp was discontinued by 1949, adding to its rarity and collectible value today. Its unique design and association with Schiaparelli's iconic Shocking perfume make it a sought-after item among vintage perfume and jewelry enthusiasts.

The New Yorker, 1940:

"Schiaparelli's Scamp lapel pin, a gaga little figure flailing its flexible arms about, contains a dram of Shocking perfume and comes with two bottles of the stuff for refilling ($7.50)"

Fashions of the Hour, 1940:

"Wonderful Schiaparelli fantasy, a perfume boutonniere she can pin on her lapel. This stalwart gilded fencer holds a 1-dram bottle of Shocking perfume and in the box are two extra drams.  $7.50."

Shocking Love Birds:

In 1940, Schiaparelli introduced the "Shocking Love Birds" presentation, an enchanting and whimsical addition to the Shocking perfume line. This unique set featured two delicate bottles, each holding one dram of Shocking perfume, beautifully perched inside a gilded cage. The cage was adorned with tiny flowers, adding a touch of romance and charm to the overall design.

The "Shocking Love Birds" set epitomized Schiaparelli's flair for creating imaginative and visually captivating presentations. The gilded cage, with its intricate details and floral decorations, created a delightful scene that was both playful and elegant. The two bottles, representing love birds, were nestled within the cage, making this set a perfect gift for romantic occasions or as a charming addition to a perfume collection.

This presentation showcased Schiaparelli's ability to blend artistic creativity with functional design, resulting in a truly memorable and collectible piece that continues to capture the hearts of vintage perfume enthusiasts.

Tufted Satin Heart:

Around 1947, Schiaparelli introduced a charming presentation featuring a pink heart-decorated box, which was beautifully lined with tufted satin. This elegant and romantic box held three miniature bottles of some of Schiaparelli's most beloved perfume creations: "Shocking," "Sleeping," and "Salut."

The pink heart theme added a touch of whimsy and romance, making it an ideal gift for special occasions or a cherished addition to any perfume lover's collection. The tufted satin lining not only provided a luxurious backdrop for the miniature bottles but also ensured their protection and presentation.

Each miniature bottle contained a dram of its respective fragrance, allowing fans of Schiaparelli to enjoy a variety of her iconic scents in one delightful set. This presentation epitomized Schiaparelli's talent for combining exquisite packaging with her distinct and imaginative perfume creations, making it a timeless piece in the world of vintage perfumes.

Metal Filigree Purse Flacon:

For Christmas in 1951 and 1952, Schiaparelli offered an exquisite version of her iconic "Shocking" perfume, housed in a luxurious gold-colored metal filigree flacon. This opulent bottle was adorned with simulated rubies, adding a touch of regal elegance to the presentation. The filigree design allowed glimpses of the precious perfume inside, creating an alluring interplay of light and fragrance.

This special edition flacon was designed with a screw top and stood at 2 1/2 inches tall, making it a compact yet strikingly beautiful item. To protect and enhance the luxurious experience, the bottle came encased in a protective blue calfskin leather case. The contrast between the rich gold of the flacon and the deep blue of the leather case underscored Schiaparelli's flair for dramatic and sophisticated design.

This limited edition release for the holiday seasons of 1951 and 1952 exemplified Schiaparelli's commitment to creating not just fragrances, but complete sensory experiences. The combination of intricate craftsmanship, luxurious materials, and elegant presentation made this version of "Shocking" a coveted collector's item and a memorable gift for the holiday season.

Shocking For the Boudoir:

Other items from the Schiaparelli collection were designed to add a touch of glamour and whimsy to the boudoir. A notable piece was the shocking pink satin and black lace panty-shaped pouch, perfect for storing nylons. Another elegant item was a pink and white lace-printed satin lingerie case, ideal for organizing delicate garments.

For a fragrant touch, there were adorable scented sachets to be tucked inside dresser drawers or hung in closets, ensuring that clothing remained fresh and infused with the signature scent of "Shocking."

Schiaparelli also catered to more whimsical tastes with items like a pink and black lace-printed box containing four decks of cards, combining practicality with her signature style. These luxurious and playful accessories showcased Schiaparelli's ability to blend fashion, fragrance, and functionality, making everyday items feel special and sophisticated.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Shocking was reformulated by perfumer Martin Gras and repackaged in 1979 by Schiaparelli-Pikenz. Up until then, the iconic torso parfum bottles featured crisscrossed dressmaker tapes adorned with a round golden seal bearing an "S." In the 1979 redesign, these distinctive elements were replaced by a new aesthetic. Shocking pink velvet took the place of the dressmaker's tape measures, and the bottles were now covered by a small pink heart with a stylized "S" in the center. This update maintained the essence of Shocking while introducing a fresh, modern touch to its presentation.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The original Shocking fragrance was discontinued, but in 1997, it was reformulated by Martin Gras of Dragoco and relaunched with new packaging by Schiaparelli-Pikenz. The new presentation featured spray bottles of eau de parfum, maintaining the modern essence of Shocking while introducing a distinctive new look. The updated design included a heart-shaped logo that was angled higher on one side, giving it a unique and playful twist. This reimagining of Shocking continued to captivate with its innovative packaging and timeless appeal, ensuring the fragrance's legacy lived on in a contemporary form.

To advertise the newly relaunched Shocking perfume, a large dummy bottle (called a factice) was produced in 1998. This Shocking torso bottle stood an impressive 15 inches tall and was crafted from heavy glass, topped with a solid frosted glass ball-shaped stopper. The measuring tape detail, iconic to the Shocking design, was frosted into the glass itself, adding a modern twist to the vintage aesthetic. This bottle was created for the "new" Schiaparelli Company in 1998, which has since gone out of business. Unlike the original perfume bottles, the 1998 factice was filled with colored water, not perfume.

In comparison, the original 1936 factice bottle stands slightly taller at 15.25 inches and features distinct differences. It is molded with "Japan" on the base, indicating its place of manufacture. The original also includes a gilded glass stopper and a paper measuring tape, showcasing the luxurious and detailed craftsmanship of the era. These differences highlight the evolution in design and manufacturing techniques from the original 1936 version to the 1998 reinterpretation, each reflecting the aesthetic and technological advancements of their respective times.

The original torso bottles for the Shocking parfum, introduced in 1936, were adorned with intricate details that have become iconic in the world of perfumery. These bottles were wrapped in paper measuring tapes, emphasizing the dressmaker theme and connecting to Elsa Schiaparelli's fashion roots. The bouquet of tiny green glass flowers around the bottle's neck added a touch of delicate beauty, firmly anchoring the design in the era's aesthetic.

In contrast, the 1979 and 1997 versions of the Shocking bottles underwent notable design changes while still paying homage to the original. The paper measuring tapes were replaced with luxurious velvet ribbons, providing a more tactile and visually rich experience. These ribbons retained the theme of measurement but with a softer, more opulent feel. Additionally, the flower bouquets on these newer versions were designed to be detachable and could be worn as brooches, adding a functional and wearable element to the perfume's packaging. The flowers themselves were more varied in color and shape, and instead of the tiny green glass leaves of the original, these versions featured little gold leaves, which added a touch of elegance and modernity.

These updates in the 1979 and 1997 bottles reflect both a respect for the original design and an adaptation to contemporary tastes and manufacturing capabilities. The changes in materials and the addition of the brooch functionality highlight a shift towards a more versatile and user-friendly product, while still maintaining the unique charm and identity of the Shocking perfume line.

In 1997, the fragrance "Zut" by Schiaparelli was reformulated and relaunched, marking its return to the perfume market. This updated version was part of Schiaparelli's broader effort to revive and modernize some of their classic scents for a contemporary audience. The relaunch was accompanied by a new advertisement campaign, emphasizing both the heritage of the original fragrance and its refreshed composition.

The 1997 reformulation aimed to capture the essence of the original "Zut" while introducing new elements to appeal to modern sensibilities. This dual focus on tradition and innovation is evident in the advertising materials, which showcased the perfume's history and its new identity. The advertisement highlighted the fragrance's signature blend, inviting both long-time fans and new customers to experience the timeless allure of "Zut" in its updated form.

This relaunch was part of Schiaparelli's strategy to reinvigorate their brand by reintroducing classic fragrances with a modern twist, maintaining the brand's legacy while ensuring relevance in the contemporary perfume market.

2008 Relaunch:

In 2008, the iconic fragrance "Shocking" by Schiaparelli was relaunched in its original formulation by the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie at Urban Retreat, Harrods, London. This reintroduction aimed to bring back the timeless allure of the 1936 classic, capturing its original essence and design.

The relaunched "Shocking" retained the bottle design that closely resembled the original 1936 version. The distinct torso-shaped flacon, adorned with crisscrossed dressmaker tapes and a golden seal, evoked the elegance and innovation that Elsa Schiaparelli first introduced. This design choice was a deliberate nod to the fragrance's heritage, reinforcing its status as a timeless masterpiece in the world of perfumery.

The 2008 version aimed to provide perfume enthusiasts with an authentic experience of the original scent, meticulously recreated to match the 1936 formulation. This relaunch was a testament to the enduring legacy of Schiaparelli's "Shocking," celebrating its rich history and continued relevance in contemporary perfume culture.

"Composed of over 500 ingredients, the original floral has been re-launched in a limited edition Baccarat numbered crystal bottle, the shape of which is based on the curvaceous torso of Mae West."