Senso by Ungaro c1987

Launched in 1987, Senso by Emanuel Ungaro emerged during a vibrant era in fashion and culture. The 1980s were marked by bold experimentation, both in the realm of fashion and in the world of fragrance. This was a decade characterized by opulence, with extravagant designs and a fascination with luxury. The perfume industry was buzzing with new releases, often accompanied by provocative names and luxurious packaging that reflected the era's penchant for excess and glamour.

The choice of the name Senso for Ungaro's fragrance is intriguing and multifaceted. In Italian, Senso translates to "sense" or "sensibility," which aligns seamlessly with the perfume's intent to evoke a profound sensory experience. The word carries with it connotations of heightened perception and emotional depth, suggesting that the fragrance is designed to stimulate the senses in a way that is both captivating and unforgettable.

For women of the late 1980s, Senso would have resonated deeply with the cultural and social dynamics of the time. The decade was a period of assertive femininity, where women were embracing bold, confident styles and expressing their individuality through fashion and fragrance. Senso would have appealed to women seeking to assert their presence with a fragrance that was as assertive and distinctive as their own style. The perfume's name hints at an intimate connection to the senses, suggesting a fragrance experience that is both personal and enveloping.

The emotional and visual imagery evoked by the name Senso is rich and evocative. It conjures images of sensuality and sophistication, promising an experience that is both luxurious and deeply personal. The word implies a sense of elegance and refinement, appealing to those who seek a fragrance that enhances their allure and complements their sophisticated demeanor.

Given the era's penchant for dramatic and impactful names, Senso stands out as a distinctive choice. It reflects the 1980s' fascination with bold statements and the exploration of personal identity through scent. Created by Jacques Polge, a renowned perfumer known for his work with Chanel, Senso carries the promise of a carefully crafted olfactory experience that aligns with the era's indulgent and expressive spirit.

"Women are the most interesting human beings, so strong, so rich mentally," said Emanuel Ungaro. "They're much more powerful than men. So instead of just making fashion, I create an atmosphere for women, a spirit....Designing stirs the heart, the soul...To sense an impulse, I work with my intuition and emotions. I want to tell the mysterious, sensual woman, 'Listen, I know what you are doing - and you are right."

"I create fashion and fragrance for the kind of woman I admire," said Ungaro. "Each one is different, yet seductive and feminine. But those two things are one and the same, are they not?" The Senso woman he says, "Above all, she is sensuous. In matters of the heart she makes her own rules - and breaks them at will. A constantly evolving legend, she is admired by men and has the qualities other women aspire to."

Emanuel Ungaro's statement, "Women are the most interesting human beings, so strong, so rich mentally," reveals his profound respect for the complexity and strength of women. Ungaro’s approach to fashion and fragrance was not merely about creating clothing or scents but about crafting an atmosphere and spirit that resonate deeply with women. His designs were meant to stir emotions and reflect an intuitive understanding of women's desires and experiences. By stating, "I want to tell the mysterious, sensual woman, 'Listen, I know what you are doing - and you are right,'" Ungaro emphasized his commitment to celebrating the multifaceted nature of femininity through his creations.

In his view, the Senso woman epitomizes sensuality and autonomy. She is portrayed as alluring and self-assured, someone who confidently navigates her emotions and relationships. Ungaro’s vision for Senso was to cater to such a woman—one who is both seductive and independent, and whose evolving persona inspires admiration and aspiration. His goal was to provide a fragrance that not only enhances her natural allure but also reflects her unique character and strength.

The introduction of Senso in Europe and the Middle East in September 1987, with Nastassja Kinski as its international representative, was intended to lend a sophisticated and glamorous edge to the brand. However, despite the initial excitement, the fragrance faced challenges in international markets. By 1991, Senso had not gained the expected traction abroad, prompting Parfums Ungaro to develop a revised version in 1992 aimed at a younger demographic. This new iteration, launched in the US in 1993, was crafted to appeal to women in their twenties with a more youthful, sexy, and spicy profile, while Diva targeted a more mature audience.

This strategic shift reflects Ungaro’s responsiveness to changing consumer tastes and market dynamics. The segmentation approach, with Senso appealing to younger women and Diva to an older crowd, highlights the importance of tailoring products to specific demographic preferences. Such adaptations are crucial in the fragrance industry, where consumer trends can rapidly evolve, and maintaining market relevance requires continuous innovation and responsiveness.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet fruity floral fragrance for women. A sparkling blend of flowers, precious woods, fruits and spices. It starts out with a green citrusy top, followed by a sweet floral heart, resting on a woody, powdery, ambery base. 

• Top notes: citrus, grapefruit, bergamot, green note, reseda, galbanum, neroli, hyacinth
• Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, orris, tuberose
• Base notes: carnation, sweet rose, jasmine, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, vanilla, benzoin, amber, musk

Scent Story:

In the vibrant heart of Paris in the late 1980s, the creation of Senso by Emanuel Ungaro was not just the development of a new fragrance but a sensory tribute to the archetype of the modern woman. This woman—sensuous, autonomous, and alluring—served as the muse for the fragrance, embodying a blend of strength and elegance that Ungaro sought to capture.

Picture yourself walking into a Parisian boutique, where the air is rich with the promise of luxury. As you step through the threshold, the first notes of Senso greet you—a crisp, green citrus accord mingling with grapefruit, bergamot, and a hint of galbanum. The scent of fresh, green notes fills your senses, evoking the feeling of a dewy morning in a lush garden. The citrus is bright and invigorating, like the first light of dawn, promising the day’s adventure.

As you continue to explore, the fragrance deepens and transforms. The initial citrus burst gives way to a complex floral heart. Here, the scent of orange blossom, jasmine, and rose unfolds like a bouquet being presented. You can almost visualize a delicate arrangement of ylang ylang and tuberose, their sweet, creamy notes intertwining with the subtle elegance of lily of the valley and orris. The air is filled with an intoxicating blend of flowers that speak of romance and passion, as if each bloom tells a story of its own.

In the quieter corners of the boutique, you sense a warm, comforting base. The fragrance evolves to reveal a sophisticated composition of sandalwood, vetiver, and patchouli, grounding the sweetness of the floral heart with their rich, earthy tones. The scent of vanilla, benzoin, and amber adds a soft, powdery quality that envelops you like a velvet wrap, blending seamlessly with the lingering musk that leaves an indelible impression.

You reach out to touch the elegant bottle, feeling its frosted glass cool against your fingertips. The surface is smooth, its pleated design hinting at the graceful, sensual nature of the fragrance inside. The cap, a clear faceted crystal, catches the light and sparkles as you twist it open. As you spray the perfume, the sensation of the mist on your skin feels like a gentle caress, the scent lingering and evolving with every breath.

In this sensory exploration, you hear the soft rustle of fabric as a woman moves gracefully, her presence both captivating and assured. The fragrance becomes part of her, enhancing her natural allure with every step. Her confidence and sensuality are reflected in the complex layers of Senso, each note blending harmoniously to mirror her evolving persona. This fragrance, with its blend of sweet, fruity, floral, and woody elements, is more than a scent; it is an extension of her identity, a manifestation of her strength, and a tribute to her unique character.

In creating Senso, Ungaro aimed not just to craft a fragrance but to encapsulate the essence of the modern woman—a symbol of elegance, independence, and sensuality. Each element of the perfume, from the bright citrus top notes to the warm, ambery base, contributes to a multi-faceted portrait of a woman who is as dynamic and compelling as the scent itself.

Bottle:

The Senso fragrance by Emanuel Ungaro was presented in a frosted glass bottle that exuded elegance and sophistication. The design of the bottle was both graceful and sensual, with its shape reminiscent of pleated fabric gently hugging the form. This choice reflected the fragrance's themes of femininity and allure, providing a visual metaphor for the soft, embracing nature of the scent. The frosted glass lent a refined, understated sheen that accentuated the luxurious quality of the fragrance.

The bottle was topped with a clear, faceted crystal cap, which added a touch of glamour and opulence. The cap's intricate design caught the light beautifully, enhancing the bottle's overall appeal and underscoring the fragrance's luxurious status. This combination of frosted glass and a crystal cap created a striking contrast that made the bottle not only functional but also a decorative object in its own right.

The bottles were manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, a prestigious glassmaker renowned for its high-quality glass packaging. This collaboration ensured that the bottle met the high standards of luxury and craftsmanship associated with Ungaro's brand. The design of the bottles was credited to Jacques Helleu, a celebrated designer known for his work with luxury brands, including Chanel. Helleu’s expertise in creating sophisticated and visually compelling packaging was evident in the Senso bottle design.

The Senso product line extended beyond just the eau de parfum and eau de toilette. It included complementary products such as soap and deodorant spray, allowing consumers to enjoy the fragrance in various aspects of their personal care routine. This comprehensive range of products offered a complete Senso experience, integrating the fragrance into everyday life and enhancing its appeal through multiple touchpoints.

Overall, the design and packaging of Senso epitomized Ungaro’s commitment to elegance and sophistication. From the delicately frosted glass bottle to the dazzling crystal cap, every detail was meticulously crafted to reflect the fragrance's luxurious and alluring nature.

The restyling of Senso packaging in 1992 marked a contemporary update to the fragrance’s visual identity, blending elements of classic elegance with modern flair. The new bottle design featured a unique shade that melded pink and purple, striking a balance between timeless femininity and contemporary sophistication. This color choice was both eye-catching and chic, aiming to appeal to a modern audience while maintaining a sense of refinement.

A notable addition to the redesigned packaging was the chrome yellow ribbon at the neck, adorned with black polka dots. This playful and whimsical detail introduced an element of fun and personality, creating a striking contrast with the bottle's more subdued tones. The ribbon added a light-hearted touch that distinguished the new packaging from its predecessor and reflected a fresh, dynamic approach.

The faceted turquoise blue-crystal stopper was a vivid and striking contrast to the bottle’s overall color scheme. Its vibrant hue not only enhanced the visual appeal but also added a pop of color that drew the eye. The combination of the turquoise stopper and the pink-purple bottle created a visually engaging package that stood out on the shelf.

The bottles were still manufactured by Pochet et du Courval, ensuring that the high standards of craftsmanship and quality were preserved. The design of the restyled packaging was credited once again to Jacques Helleu, whose continued involvement maintained a cohesive visual language and aesthetic continuity for the Senso brand.

Overall, the 1992 restyling of Senso reflected a thoughtful evolution of the fragrance’s visual identity. By incorporating elements of playfulness and modernity while retaining core aspects of elegance and sophistication, the updated design aimed to attract a contemporary audience while honoring the fragrance’s heritage.

Product Line:

The Senso fragrance line was designed to offer a range of formats to suit different preferences and occasions, ensuring that consumers could enjoy the scent in various ways. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the available formats:

The Eau de Parfum Splash (1.35 oz) is a classic format where the fragrance is applied through a small opening, allowing users to dab the perfume directly onto their skin. This traditional method offers a more personal and intimate application of the scent, ideal for those who prefer a hands-on approach to fragrance.

The Eau de Parfum Spray (1.5 oz) features a spray mechanism that provides a more controlled and even application of the fragrance. This format is convenient for those who prefer a quick and effortless way to apply perfume, ensuring a consistent distribution of scent.

The Eau de Toilette Splash (1.36 oz), similar to the Eau de Parfum Splash, allows for direct application. However, it typically contains a lighter concentration of perfume oils compared to the Eau de Parfum, making it a more subtle and less intense option for those who enjoy a lighter fragrance experience.

The Eau de Toilette Spray (1.5 oz) combines the ease of a spray mechanism with the lighter concentration of fragrance oils found in Eau de Toilette. This format offers a refreshing and convenient way to apply the scent, suitable for everyday use.

The Deodorant Spray (3.4 oz) provides a dual benefit: it offers odor protection while infusing the skin with the Senso fragrance. This format is practical for daily use, ensuring that the scent of Senso is present throughout the day while also serving a functional purpose.

The Bath Soap, packaged in a plastic case, represents a luxurious addition to the Senso product line. This soap likely produced a rich lather and left the skin lightly scented with Senso, enhancing the bathing experience with a touch of elegance.

These diverse formats cater to varying preferences and needs, allowing consumers to incorporate Senso into their daily routines in multiple ways. Whether through a splash, spray, or bath soap, each format was designed to provide a unique and enjoyable fragrance experience.

Fate of the Fragrance:

DCI. - Volume 161, Issues 2-6, 1997:

"...the company will launch its newest effort for Ungaro, a fresh women's scent unlike the formal, more classic Diva fragrance. This marks Bulgari's first project for Ungaro Parfums in conjunction with the joint venture finalized last March with Ungaro's owner, Ferragamo. According to Bulgari group CEO Francesco Trapani, Bulgari, which owns 50 percent of Ferragamo Parfums and Ungaro Parfums, will continue the Diva and Ungaro Pour Homme III fragrances, but discontinue the four other Ungaro scents: Senso and Ungaro for women and Ungaro Pour Homme I and II."

The excerpt from DCI Volume 161, Issues 2-6, 1997 reveals significant changes in Ungaro Parfums' fragrance lineup, including the discontinuation of several scents such as Senso. This strategic decision was influenced by a joint venture finalized between Bulgari and Ferragamo, which gave Bulgari a 50 percent stake in both Ferragamo Parfums and Ungaro Parfums. Under this new arrangement, Bulgari decided to focus on continuing the Diva and Ungaro Pour Homme III fragrances while phasing out other offerings, including Senso.

The discontinuation of Senso was part of a broader strategy to realign the brand's fragrance portfolio. This move likely stemmed from a combination of factors such as shifting consumer preferences, evolving market trends, and a desire to streamline the product range. By introducing a new, fresh women's scent that was distinct from the classic and formal Diva fragrance, the company aimed to cater to contemporary tastes and capture emerging market opportunities.

In the competitive beauty industry, brands frequently refresh their product lines to stay relevant and meet changing consumer demands. While it's always bittersweet to see beloved fragrances like Senso disappear from the market, such decisions are common as companies strive to innovate and adapt. Despite its discontinuation, Senso remains a cherished fragrance for those who experienced its unique scent during its time, serving as a nostalgic reminder of its distinct olfactory presence.

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