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Monday, April 17, 2023

Megara by Le Galion c1978

"Megara" by Le Galion, launched in 1978, emerged during a pivotal period in both fragrance history and societal evolution. The 1970s were characterized by shifting cultural norms and the burgeoning feminist movement, which influenced women's roles and aspirations across various facets of life, including fashion and beauty. Against this backdrop, "Megara" represented more than just a perfume; it encapsulated a blend of historical elegance and modern sophistication that appealed to the emerging desires of women in that era.

Choosing the name "Megara" for the perfume was a deliberate nod to its ancient Greek origins. In Greek mythology, Megara was known for her strength and resilience as the first wife of Hercules. This classical reference imbued the fragrance with connotations of timeless beauty and inner fortitude, qualities that resonated with the aspirations of women in the 1970s who were asserting their independence and seeking equality.

"Megara" stood out among other perfumes of its time due to its unique name and the imagery it evoked. Unlike many fragrances that leaned towards floral or fruity names, "Megara" suggested a perfume with depth and character, hinting at a blend of oriental and spicy notes that were becoming increasingly popular. The name itself was an invitation to explore a scent that promised sophistication and complexity, appealing to women who appreciated elegance and refinement in their fragrance choices.

For women of the 1970s, "Megara" represented more than just a fragrance; it symbolized empowerment and confidence. The name evoked images of ancient Greek beauty, architecture, and mythology, tapping into emotions of strength and grace. This resonated deeply with women who were navigating societal changes and seeking to express themselves through their personal style.

Emotionally, "Megara" would have been interpreted as a fragrance that embodies both the resilience of its mythological namesake and the sophistication of modern femininity. It offered women a scent that was not only luxurious but also meaningful, reflecting their desire for self-expression and individuality in a time of cultural transformation.

In summary, "Megara" by Le Galion in 1978 was more than a perfume; it was a statement of strength and elegance for women embracing their roles in a changing world. It captured the essence of a period marked by empowerment and self-discovery, resonating with women who sought to embody both historical allure and contemporary sophistication in their fragrance choices.



The story of Megara would not have began without mentioning Paul Vacher, the founder of the legendary French perfumery Le Galion. Paul Vacher, in his lifetime created 20 international perfumes both for his perfumery house and for select fashion houses. His first masterpiece was created for the quintessential Madame Lanvin in 1927, the classic aldehydic woody, floral perfume Arpege, with the help of his assistant, André Fraysse. The talented duo followed up with the aldehydic floral, L'Ame Perdue for Lanvin in 1928, which has long been discontinued.

Then came his 1937 floral triumph, Sortilege, still faithfully made by Le Galion today. Also in 1937, he created more scents for Le Galion: another floral aldehyde perfume, Snob; the soft floral Iris; the aromatic fougere fragrance Brumes; the sweet floral Tubereuse; and the fruity woody fougere fragrance, Bourrasque; all discontinued for many years, but lucky for us, Parfums Le Galion has reissued all of them.

Other Le Galion scents were created by Vacher: At some point during 1930-1935, he developed a formula, but forgot to give it a name. Dubbed 222, it was formulated in 2014 and issued by Le Galion. Also launched was a dry, spicy woodsy chypre fragrance for men, Vetyver, in 1940; a second men's fragrance, this time, the woodsy green named Special for Gentlemen in 1947; the elegant floral, La Rose in 1950; the snappy citric floral, Whip in 1953; the woody, spicy floral woman's fragrance Galion d'Or in 1968; an aromatic spicy unisex fragrance, Eau Noble in 1972.  

Paul Vacher's legacy in the world of perfumery is indeed remarkable, and his contributions to Le Galion are truly iconic. His collaboration with Madame Lanvin resulted in timeless fragrances like Arpege and L'Ame Perdue, showcasing his talent for creating complex and sophisticated scents.

In addition to his work with Lanvin, Vacher also created several masterpieces for Le Galion, including Sortilege, a floral triumph that continues to be crafted by the house today. The range of fragrances he developed for Le Galion, from the floral aldehydes like Snob and Iris to the aromatic fougere Brumes and the fruity woody Bourrasque, demonstrates his versatility and creativity as a perfumer.

Even after his passing, Vacher's impact on Le Galion persisted. The reissuing of discontinued fragrances like Snob, Iris, Tubereuse, and Bourrasque allows modern audiences to experience the timeless elegance of his creations. Additionally, the discovery and formulation of the forgotten fragrance 222 in 2014 further solidifies Vacher's enduring influence on Le Galion's legacy.

Vacher's work extended beyond Le Galion as well, with notable fragrances like Vetyver, Special for Gentlemen, La Rose, Whip, Galion d'Or, and Eau Noble showcasing his ability to create diverse olfactory experiences that appeal to both men and women.

Indeed, the story of Megara would be incomplete without recognizing the immense contributions of Paul Vacher to the world of perfumery and his enduring legacy at Le Galion.

You can purchase SnobBrumesIrisVetyverLa Rose222, WhipTubereuse, Eau Noble, Special for Gentlemen, and Bourrasque directly from Le Galion through their website. You can even find the updated version of L'Ame Perdue!

Paul Vacher's collaboration with French couturier Jean Dessès in 1938 resulted in the creation of Celui, a charming floral chypre fragrance. This partnership marked Vacher's foray into the world of haute couture perfumery, further showcasing his versatility and talent as a perfumer. Celui, with its floral and chypre elements, likely complemented Jean Dessès's elegant and sophisticated fashion aesthetic. Unfortunately, like some of Vacher's other creations, Celui has been discontinued, adding to its allure as a rare and elusive fragrance. The story of Celui adds another layer to Paul Vacher's rich legacy, highlighting his ability to collaborate with renowned figures in the fashion industry and create fragrances that encapsulate the spirit of their couture creations.

In 1947, Vacher teamed up with Jean Carles and created the sensational chypre, Miss Dior, for the up and coming designer, Christian Dior. This was followed up with Diorling, in 1963, a light floral chypre fragrance for women. Unfortunately, Diorling is no longer being produced, but you can still buy an outstanding new formulation of Miss Dior directly from Christian Dior's website.

In between the Dior scents, he created another two gems for Jean Desses. The leathery chypre fragrance for men, Gymkana in 1960 and Kalispera, a sweet-floral woody fragrance for women in 1962. It took Vacher no less than 384 attempts to create Kalispera, which was made up of 68 individual components.

After he passed away in 1975, his daughter. Dominique De Urresti, was promoted the new 'nose' and head perfumer of the research laboratory for Le Galion. Dominique also took over as the managing director of Le Galion, her Spanish husband, Manuel, was the export and marketing director, while her mother, Mrs.Vacher, served as president of the company.

Dominique said that if she didn't end up working as a perfumer, she would have been a surgeon. For ten years she worked alongside her father as an apprentice in the lab, who originally persuaded her to join him for only a few months to see if she liked doing it. "I always heard about perfume at home. And I have the memory of smell. I have learnt to remember the way a red rose or any flower smells," said Dominique. She then spent another eight years working independently in the lab, formulating and blending various scents.

Dominique created a new perfume in her "top secret" laboratory, tucked away at an elegant Edwardian chateau at Neuilly-sur-Seine, on the outskirts of Paris, which also doubled as the firm's headquarters. The shelves surrounding her "perfume organ" were cluttered with bottles, jars, cartons and tubs of various liquids housing essences - materials derived from fixatives, flowers, herbs, spices, grasses, barks, roots, leaves and oils. She expressed her dislike for synthetics saying, "They are not alive, they have no evolution and always smell the same. A perfume must open and close."

Dominique was in charge of traveling around the world to check out the harvests and to pick out the most finest of ingredients. From England, she procured blackcurrants, nutmegs and cinnamon. She used her massive budget to procure £100,000 worth of jasmine on a trip to Egypt, enough to last a whole year. A single bottle of civet cost her £800, another bottle held £5,000 worth of jasmine from Grasse. 

When asked about her favorite flower, she said jasmine, probably because it formed the base of many of her father's lovely floral perfumes which formed a large part of her childhood. Sortilege, she said was a magnificently balanced "aria" of costly jasmine, wild lilies of the valley, Bulgarian roses, ambergris and sensual musk. She explained that jasmine is expensive because its blossoms can only be gathered at night when the blossoms are open and said that it took more than 2,000 pounds of rose petals to distill just one pound of rose essential oil.

She disclosed that in the 1930s, her father made a custom fragrance, purely of iris, another costly ingredient. The perfume was not for public consumption, but was made exclusively for one habitue of the French Riviera. However, the bespoke fragrance was not produced for very long as cost outstripped custom and he was forced to discontinue it. The indulgent lady for whom it was created apparently died within three months of the news. Today, you can purchase an updated iris fragrance directly from Le Galion's website.

A 'nose' needs to be able to discern various species of flowers, for instance, she could sniff dozens of different rose essences in one day and be able to differentiate which was which. She said, "In between each one I smoke a cigarette, to 'clear' my nose, in the same way as a professional wine taste cleans his palate with bread in between each sip."  Though industry professionals would strongly advise her to smoke, especially during blending perfume compositions. Nevertheless, she was a heavy smoker who felt like she knew what she was doing.

 She said she always thinks in smells. "There are no rules about creating a fragrance. You just follow your intuition. I carry 'smells' around in my head like a composer carries notes. And, in an instant, I can conjure one up in my mind that I haven't perhaps smelt for three years or more," she explained. "And really creating a fragrance is like composing a symphony. It is made up of hundreds of 'notes," she added.

In order to prevent industrial espionage, the perfumery lab was heavily guarded, protecting their trade secrets from their competitors. So secretive was the lab, that Dominique refused to allow any cleaning personell inside to tidy up and wipe the thirty-three years worth of dust off the bottles in the musty room. "No one is allowed to touch the bottles except for me. I know where they all are and they only get dusted when I handle them. It would be impractical to let a cleaner loose in here, If she were to move just one tiny bottle, I would be stumped. I have to know where everything is - devising a new perfume can involve using over 300 different ingredients," she said. 

However, the formulas are not kept in the secret lab, but three copies are kept in bank vaults, one in France, one in Switzerland and another in far off Canada. Should anything happen to one, at least there are two other copies to work from.

Dominique confessed that she wore other manufacturer's perfumes as well as those from her own company. This I feel is quite a testament to these other perfumer's talents.

She said that perfume was the first thing she put on in the morning. She applied it after a bath or shower when the skin is still quite damp and the pores are open. She enjoyed layering her fragrance, "Begin with scented soap, bath oil and powder. Splash on cologne and toilet water - all over," she said. She even wore perfume on her clothes, around the neck, the arms, the hair and "on the nightgown."

Dominique gave advice to users of her perfume: once the bottle is open, "Use it. Keep it in a cool, dark place, preferably in the bedroom, not the bathroom," where it is too hot and too damp, two natural enemies of your precious perfume.



Megara:


After three painstaking years of working with scents for Le Galion, she created the ultimate tribute to her father, the beautiful modern "green" floral chypre Megara. The fragrance has lovely green notes but is warm and sensuous too. It was her own pride and joy, a young, sophisticated and frankly, sexy scent containing over 200 ingredients including Bulgarian rose, vetiver, ylang ylang, and of course, her favorite, jasmine. She said that the name Megara was inspired by ancient Greece. Megara brought back an aura of elegance to the perfume world, and Dominique jokingly said that its  complicated composition "is a foot long" and revealed that its formula was kept locked away in a huge safe in the bowels of the chateau.

Dominique was one of the few female 'noses' in a male dominated profession. Her father inspired her passion for perfumery by bringing back aromatic essences and fragrant oils for her to experience all the while recounting the fascinating tales of their origin. 

Megara was created by a woman to please women. When Jean Paul Guerlain, the famous 'nose' from the iconic fragrance house of Guerlain, teased her that only men could create great scents for men, and that a woman could not possibly know how a man wants to smell. She responded with, "Only a woman can know what is good on a man. Non?," she said and told him that her next composition should be a great success. And to prove him wrong, she took to task creating a fragrance formula for a truly masculine men's fragrance. Jean Paul Guerlain reportedly admitted he liked her "Megara."

Unfortunately, Megara was to be the last scent launched by Le Galion before the company folded in the mid-1980s. There are those of us who hope that the newest incarnation of Le Galion would reissue the long lost fragrance.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It starts with a fruity, green aldehydic top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a sensual powdery base. It is described as fresh and green with unusual overtones and mixed floral back note.
  • Top notes: bergamot, hyacinth, aldehydes, peach, raspberry
  • Middle notes: gardenia, lily of the valley, honey, jasmine, orris, rose, orchid
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, musk, ambergris, cedar


Scent Profile:


As you experience the top notes of "Megara," you are greeted by a burst of freshness and vibrancy that mirrors the mythological strength and elegance of Megara herself. The bergamot and aldehydes dance together, creating a sparkling and effervescent opening. This initial impression is complemented by hints of peach and raspberry, which add a fruity sweetness, reminiscent of the lush gardens where Megara might have walked in ancient tales. These fruity, green aldehydic notes evoke a sense of vitality and confidence, much like the spirited women of the 1970s who were forging new paths and embracing their independence.

Moving into the heart of "Megara," the fragrance transforms into a bouquet of elegant florals that speak of grace and sophistication. Gardenia and jasmine intertwine with lily of the valley, creating a floral symphony that is both delicate and alluring. The addition of honey adds a touch of warmth and sweetness, enhancing the complexity of the fragrance. This floral heart represents the softer, more nurturing side of Megara, reflecting her inner beauty and resilience amidst challenges—a quality that resonated with women of the 1970s who balanced strength with grace in their pursuit of equality and self-expression.

As "Megara" settles into its base notes, a sensual and powdery essence emerges, grounding the fragrance with depth and sophistication. Oakmoss and sandalwood provide a woody foundation that is both earthy and comforting, while musk and ambergris lend a subtle sensuality that lingers on the skin. Cedar adds a touch of warmth and complexity, completing the olfactory journey with a lingering elegance.

In comparing and contrasting the mythological Megara with the confident woman of the 1970s through the fragrance of "Megara," we see parallels of strength, elegance, and resilience. The top notes, with their fresh and vibrant character, mirror Megara's legendary vitality and determination. The floral heart speaks to her grace and inner beauty, reflecting the softer, nurturing aspects of her persona. Meanwhile, the sensual and powdery base notes capture the timeless allure and sophistication that defined the confident women of the 1970s, who embraced both their femininity and their strength.

Overall, "Megara" by Le Galion in 1978 embodies a fragrance journey that resonates with both historical allure and contemporary sophistication, appealing to women who seek a scent that reflects their multifaceted nature and inner strength.



Bottles:


The distinctive bottles of Megara, crafted in 1978 and designed by the renowned sculptor Serge Mansau, stand as elegant artifacts of their time. Produced in France by Pochet et du Courval, these bottles encapsulate the essence of the fragrance within. Mansau's design merges artistic sophistication with functional beauty, featuring clean lines and a sense of timeless grace that resonates with the fragrance itself. Each bottle, a testament to craftsmanship and aesthetic finesse, reflects the allure and attention to detail characteristic of both Le Galion's approach to perfumery and Mansau's sculptural vision. Together, they create an object of desire that enhances the experience of owning and using Megara, aligning perfectly with the era's appreciation for quality, style, and French luxury..

Megara was available in the following:
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Deluxe Spray
  • 1 oz Parfum Spray
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1/2 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1/3 oz Parfum de Toilette mini
  • 1.75 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 3.5 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 7 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
  • 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
  • 1.75 oz Eau de Toilette Spray






Fate of the Fragrance:



Megara, the iconic fragrance by Le Galion, met an unfortunate fate with the closure of the company in the 1980s. Discontinued when Le Galion ceased operations, the exact timeline suggests production may have halted around 1982, as evidenced by the absence of advertisements for Megara beyond that year. This discontinuation marked the end of an era for a perfume that had captured the hearts of many with its distinctive blend of fruity top notes, elegant floral heart, and sensual powdery base. Despite its discontinuation, Megara remains a cherished memory for perfume enthusiasts and collectors alike, a testament to its enduring appeal and the craftsmanship of its time.

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CLICK HERE TO FIND MEGARA PERFUME BY LE GALION

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