Tamango by Leonard c1977

Tamango was introduced by Parfums Leonard in 1977, a time when the fragrance industry was transitioning through various style phases. During the 1970s, the perfume market was characterized by a growing appreciation for more complex and sophisticated compositions, often blending fresh and floral elements with deeper, earthy undertones. This period saw the rise of fragrances that combined aldehydic freshness with lush floral bouquets and rich bases, reflecting the era’s penchant for luxurious and elegant scents.

Tamango, with its classification as a soft, crisp, green, aldehydic floral fragrance, aligned well with the trends of the time. Its use of aldehydes, a hallmark of the 1960s and 1970s, provided the sparkling, clean opening that was popular in many contemporary perfumes. The green, floral heart and sensual, powdery base were also reflective of the era’s inclination towards creating fragrances with a sophisticated yet accessible character. While it wasn’t entirely unique, Tamango distinguished itself through its careful balance of fresh, green notes and rich, powdery base, offering a refined and elegant option within a market that was increasingly embracing both bold and nuanced scent profiles.

The name "Tamango" was chosen by Parfums Leonard, drawing inspiration from a character in a novella by Prosper Mérimée, a prominent 19th-century French writer known for his vivid and dramatic storytelling. The character Tamango is the central figure in Mérimée's short story titled "Tamango", which was first published in 1829. The story, set in the early 19th century, follows the life of a West African slave and his rebellion against the oppressive forces of the French colonial system.

The name "Tamango" evokes images of exoticism and adventure, reflecting the perfume's sophisticated and somewhat enigmatic character. The character in Mérimée’s story represents a blend of strength and resilience, qualities that can be metaphorically linked to the fragrance’s enduring appeal and its complex olfactory structure. The name imbues the perfume with a sense of mystery and depth, suggesting a fragrance that is both elegant and layered.

Leonard is a French fashion house renowned for its high-quality textiles and sophisticated designs. Founded in 1958 by the designer Jacques Leonard, the brand became known for its luxurious fabrics and refined fashion sense. In the 1970s, Leonard expanded its brand identity to include fragrances, leveraging its reputation for elegance and quality. By launching Tamango, Leonard continued to assert its presence in the luxury market, offering a fragrance that matched its established image of sophistication and style.

In summary, Tamango’s launch in 1977 fit well within the evolving trends of the perfume industry, balancing aldehydic freshness with floral elegance and a sensual base. The choice of name, inspired by a character from Prosper Mérimée’s novella, added a layer of intrigue and exoticism, aligning with the perfume’s sophisticated and refined character. Leonard’s association with high fashion further underscored the perfume’s elegance and appeal.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft, crisp, green, aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It starts with an aldehydic green top, followed by a classic elegant floral heart, resting on a powdery, feminine, sensual base. It was said to be inspired by the tamango flower of the orient. "Combines a harmony of floral notes (hyacinth, lily of the valley, jasmine, rose) with rare essences such as vetiver, sandalwood and oakmoss."

• Top notes: hyacinth, iris, wild orchid, aldehydes, bergamot, green notes and spice oils, galbanum
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, lily of the valley, jasmine, May rose, carnation
• Base notes: vetiver, oakmoss, sandalwood, ambergris, opoponax, tonka bean and musk

Scent Profile:

Tamango, a soft, crisp, green, aldehydic floral fragrance for women, unfolds in a beautifully layered progression from fresh, green top notes to a classic floral heart and a sensual, powdery base.

The fragrance opens with the invigorating freshness of hyacinth, bringing a vibrant, green scent that evokes the essence of a blooming garden. This is quickly followed by the soft, powdery elegance of iris, which adds a refined, sophisticated layer. The wild orchid introduces a subtle sweetness and a hint of exoticism, enhancing the opening with a creamy floral touch. Aldehydes create a sparkling, clean effect, adding a bright, soapy freshness that highlights the green and floral elements. Bergamot infuses the composition with a zesty citrus brightness, while green notes provide a natural, verdant quality reminiscent of freshly cut foliage. Spice oils introduce a warm, aromatic complexity, and galbanum contributes a resinous, green depth, evoking the scent of fresh herbs and leaves.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a lush, floral bouquet. Ylang-ylang brings an exotic, creamy sweetness with its banana-like undertones, adding a lush, tropical quality. Lily of the valley offers a fresh, delicate floral note with a hint of green, reminiscent of a spring breeze. Jasmine contributes a rich, sensual depth with its heady, sweet fragrance, evoking a blooming jasmine garden. May rose adds a velvety, romantic warmth, enhancing the fragrance’s elegance. Finally, carnation introduces a spicy, slightly peppery warmth, adding complexity and a touch of richness to the floral heart.

The base notes provide a deep, warm foundation for the fragrance. Vetiver adds an earthy, smoky quality with its green, root-like aroma, grounding the composition. Oakmoss contributes a classic, mossy depth, offering a rich, earthy texture that enhances the fragrance’s chypre character. Sandalwood provides a creamy, smooth base with a warm, woody scent that lingers sensually. Ambergris introduces a rich, marine warmth with a slightly salty undertone, adding complexity and depth. Opoponax adds a sweet, resinous warmth, blending seamlessly with the other base notes. Tonka bean infuses the composition with a warm, nutty sweetness, enhancing the fragrance’s sensuality. Finally, musk provides a subtle, animalic depth, offering a warm, intimate finish that enhances the fragrance’s overall sensuality and longevity.

Tamango gracefully transitions from a crisp, green aldehydic opening to a classic floral heart and settles into a warm, sensual base. Each ingredient contributes to a harmonious and sophisticated fragrance experience, reflecting both timeless elegance and modern refinement.

Bottles:

The bottles for "Tamango," the fragrance designed in 1977, were created by Serge Mansau and produced in France by Pochet et du Courval. Serge Mansau is a renowned French perfume bottle designer known for his elegant and innovative designs. Pochet et du Courval is a prestigious glassmaker that has been producing high-quality perfume bottles for luxury brands for over a century. The collaboration between Mansau and Pochet et du Courval likely resulted in a bottle design that beautifully complemented the timeless elegance and sophistication of the "Tamango" fragrance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Tamango" was discontinued at some point, but the exact date is unknown. However, it was later reformulated and relaunched in a new bottle in 1997. This relaunch likely aimed to rejuvenate the fragrance and appeal to contemporary tastes while retaining its essence and legacy. The new bottle design and reformulation might have reflected changes in trends, consumer preferences, or advancements in perfumery techniques. Despite the discontinuation of the original version, the relaunch in 1997 allowed "Tamango" to continue its journey, captivating new generations of fragrance enthusiasts while still paying homage to its storied past.