Snob by Le Galion c1937

Snob by Le Galion, launched in 1937, was a fragrance that radiated the intrigue and opulence of the era. The very name, "Snob," evokes a sense of exclusivity, sophistication, and perhaps even a little bit of playful arrogance. The word itself comes from the English language, though it has roots in the French and was popularized during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It’s pronounced "snawb," and it generally refers to someone who is overly concerned with social class, wealth, or status—someone who seeks to distance themselves from those they deem of "lower" social standing. The word evokes images of socialites, well-dressed women and men gliding through society's highest circles, and a certain sense of self-importance or pretension. It’s a word laden with connotations of luxury, elitism, and, often, a playful disdain for the common or the ordinary.

The year 1937 was a moment of transition. The world was in the midst of the interwar period, a time of recovery and change after the Great Depression and just before the tumult of World War II. In Europe, the scent of glamour and decadence lingered in the air, as the 1920s "Roaring Twenties" culture had given way to a more subdued, yet equally opulent, 1930s. The Art Deco style was at its peak, influencing fashion, architecture, and design. Women’s fashions, for instance, were becoming more elegant and refined, with sleek lines, bias-cut dresses, and luxurious fabrics. Fashion icons like Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Jeanne Lanvin were defining the era’s sensibilities, with emphasis on sophistication, restraint, and an understated kind of wealth. This was a period when wealth and status could be flaunted, but in a more polished, controlled manner.

For women of the time, a perfume named Snob would have carried an aura of allure. It spoke to women who lived in the world of high society, women who understood the value of elegance and exclusivity. In the context of the 1930s, the word "Snob" may have been interpreted as a badge of honor—something that expressed the wearer’s elevated position within the social hierarchy. A woman who wore Snob would have been seen as confident, well-versed in the arts of luxury, and unafraid to indulge in her own desires. The fragrance would have appealed to the woman who wanted to project a sophisticated, worldly persona, perhaps even a touch of elitism, in a time when society was still very much divided along class lines.

As for how the word "Snob" translates into scent, Snob by Le Galion is a fragrance that speaks to both a classic opulence and a daring complexity. The floral aldehyde structure, with its sharp opening of nose-tingling aldehydes, brightened by the crisp freshness of blue hyacinth, tarragon, and citrus notes, immediately conveys a sense of refinement and freshness. The aldehydes, a hallmark of the period, give the fragrance an air of polished sophistication, while the florals—particularly the rich, intoxicating tuberose, a unique element to Le Galion—add a touch of sensuality. This floral heart, blending the prized Rose de Mai, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, and ylang ylang, mirrors the intricate, multifaceted nature of social status itself: beautiful, delicate, and highly coveted. There is an underlying spiciness to the fragrance, thanks to the carnation, which introduces an exotic edge that hints at the wearer’s cultivated, worldly taste.

The base of Snob brings together the earthy grounding of vetiver and sandalwood with the sensual, almost animalic notes of civet and the rare "Royal Hunts" musk. These deep, velvety elements suggest an air of mystery, of indulgence in something rare and highly exclusive. The inclusion of civet and musk, sourced from remote parts of the world, ties back to the idea of a woman who, like the fragrance, is unattainable and sophisticated, someone with a sense of depth and quiet power.

In comparison to other fragrances of the time, Snob was certainly unique. The 1930s was a period when floral fragrances, especially those built around aldehydes and roses, were extremely popular, with Joy by Jean Patou leading the way in 1930. While Snob shares some similarities with Joy, particularly in its use of jasmine and Rose de Mai, it distinguished itself with the complexity of its floral heart and the depth of its base notes. The heavy use of aldehydes in the opening and the animalic notes in the dry-down set it apart from the more straightforwardly floral compositions of the period. Its warm, almost oriental base added a level of richness and sensuality that went beyond the typical floral aldehyde fragrances of the time.

Thus, Snob embodied both the era’s penchant for glamour and luxury, as well as a more modern, daring spirit. It was a fragrance for women who understood the importance of their presence and desired to be seen as something exclusive, something rare—exactly like the name it bore.

Snob by Le Galion was created by the renowned perfumer Paul Vacher, whose legacy in the world of fragrance is marked by his ability to craft compositions that were both classic and forward-thinking. Vacher, who was deeply rooted in the traditions of French perfumery, understood the power of a name like "Snob" to evoke a specific image and emotion, and he translated that concept into a scent that matched its bold, exclusive persona.

Paul Vacher's approach to Snob was meticulous. He crafted a fragrance that captured the essence of sophistication, combining florals, aldehydes, and exotic base notes to create a fragrance that was both elegant and provocative. His use of aldehydes in the opening was a nod to the modernity of the time, while the complex floral heart—rich with Rose de Mai, jasmine, and ylang ylang—spoke to the classic tastes of high society. Vacher’s ability to blend contrasting elements like sharp aldehydes with the softness of floral notes, and then round it all off with sensual, earthy musks and woods, was a reflection of his skill in creating balanced, layered compositions that could appeal to the sophisticated woman of his era.

In the context of the time, Vacher's creation of Snob was not just a fragrance, but a statement. It embodied the refined tastes of an elite group, one that valued tradition and luxury but also sought to stand apart, to create an aura of mystery and allure. With Snob, Vacher provided a scent that not only reflected the world of high society but also defined it, capturing the spirit of a generation that was at the crossroads of sophistication and modernity.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women, warm and heavy with a slight oriental base. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, blue hyacinth, tarragon, bergamot, mountain narcissus, lemon and neroli
• Middle notes: Bulgarian rose, juniper, carnation, lily of the valley, night-blooming French jasmine, tuberose, lilac, ylang ylang and rose de mai
• Base notes: incense, ambergris, vetiver, "Royal Hunts" musk, civet, sandalwood, tonka bean, cedar and orris

Scent Profile:

Snob (aka Cub) opens with a rush of aldehydes, their sharp, almost metallic edge striking at the senses like a crisp morning breeze. The aldehydes are electric, crackling through the air with a powdery yet almost soapy presence that feels both clean and exhilarating. Beneath this sparkling brightness, the perfume unfurls a bouquet of fresh, dewy hyacinth. The hyacinth’s watery green is softened by a faint sweetness, like the smell of a flower just beginning to open in the early hours of the morning. 

Alongside, there’s the unmistakable herbal green of tarragon—bright, fresh, and slightly peppery—adding an unexpected but delightful sharpness to the blend. These notes are balanced by a refreshing citrus blend: the zesty brightness of bergamot, the clean, tangy bite of lemon, and the light, bitter-sweet edge of neroli. Together, they create an uplifting and dynamic opening that hints at something lush and full-bodied to come.

As the perfume settles, the heart reveals itself with an opulent and classic floral symphony. The first note that comes forward is Bulgarian rose—rich, velvety, and honeyed, it evokes a sense of timeless luxury. Its full-bodied depth is complemented by the subtle sweetness of rose de Mai, which adds a slightly green and ethereal quality to the composition. Together, these roses form a lush, romantic floral base, creamy and velvety, yet still fresh, like a rose garden at dawn. 

The roses are entwined with the sultry, honeyed depth of night-blooming jasmine, which exudes an intoxicating warmth and sensuality, as though it were blooming in the dark, its heady fragrance filling the air with a quiet allure. There’s also a touch of lilac—soft, powdery, and faintly sweet—that elevates the fragrance, adding a playful brightness that contrasts with the depth of the jasmine.

But it is the tuberose that steals the show in this middle stage, its intoxicating, heady quality filling the air with an overwhelming sense of richness. Unlike other tuberoses, this one seems even more intense, almost creamy, and slightly indolic, as if the very essence of flower-petals-and-sunlight has been captured in a bottle. 

Le Galion’s exclusive varietal is both alluring and overwhelming, imparting an almost narcotic quality to the scent. It mingles beautifully with the tropical sweetness of ylang ylang, which adds an exotic, somewhat fruity warmth, while the spicy warmth of carnation brings a subtle peppery note that stirs the florals into something a little more intense, a little more bold. The delicate lily of the valley weaves through the middle, its fresh, green sweetness keeping the florals from becoming too heavy. Juniper, with its lightly pine-like, green freshness, adds a crisp edge to the otherwise plush bouquet, keeping the fragrance from feeling overly rich.

As the fragrance begins to dry down, the base introduces a complexity that deepens and warms the entire composition. The earthy vetiver, with its slightly smoky, rooty scent, wraps itself around the florals, grounding them in a way that feels organic and rich. The sweet, creamy sandalwood adds smoothness, its velvety texture softening the edges of the sharper notes. Tonka bean introduces a subtle sweetness that is reminiscent of vanilla, though more nuanced, with a touch of almond and spice. This sweetness is contrasted with the sharp, pungent warmth of cedar, which adds an almost resinous quality to the base. 

The dusty orris brings an elegant, powdery dryness, a kind of sophisticated texture that completes the deep floral composition. Rounding out the base are the animalic notes of civet and the exclusive “Royal Hunts” musk, which lend the perfume a sensual, almost primal undertone. The musk, sourced from the highlands of Tibet, is velvety and warm, adding a soft, lingering sensuality that envelops the wearer like a second skin. Together, these base notes create a finish that is earthy, rich, and incredibly seductive—luxurious, complex, and undeniably alluring.

Snob (aka Cub), as a whole, feels like an homage to the grand florals of the past, with aldehydes giving it a modern edge and the rich, exotic base notes ensuring that it’s as sultry as it is elegant. It’s a fragrance that captures the opulence of an earlier era, yet remains intensely wearable and deeply seductive. A floral aldehyde with an oriental undertone, it speaks to the sophisticated woman who seeks a perfume that is both timeless and captivating.

 

Controversy:

In simple terms, the legal battle between Le Galion and Jean Patou over the Snob trademark was a dispute about who truly owned the rights to use the name for perfume in the United States.

Le Galion, a French perfume company, had been using the name Snob for its fragrance in many countries worldwide since the 1940s. The brand had built up a solid reputation for Snob in markets like Europe, Africa, and South America. However, when Le Galion attempted to sell Snob in the United States, they ran into trouble: Jean Patou, a well-known French perfume house, had already registered the name Snob with the U.S. Patent Office in 1951. This meant that Le Galion could no longer legally import or sell their perfume under that name in the U.S. without risking legal issues. As a result, Le Galion was forced to rename the perfume Cub in 1953 to continue selling it in the American market.

However, despite having registered the Snob trademark, Jean Patou had done very little with it. Between 1950 and 1971, they only sold a handful of bottles—less than 90 in total—and had hardly promoted the fragrance at all. In fact, their total sales from 1951 to 1969 amounted to just about $600, and they made only a tiny profit of $100. This lack of effort to market Snob raised the question of whether Patou had really used the trademark in a way that would justify their claim to it.

Le Galion argued that Patou's minimal sales and lack of marketing meant they hadn’t truly "used" the Snob trademark as the law required, and therefore, they should be allowed to sell their own Snob perfume in the U.S. After a long legal process, a secondary court sided with Le Galion in 1974, allowing them to reclaim the rights to the Snob name in the U.S. This decision meant that if you find a bottle of perfume labeled Cub, it’s likely from the period between 1957 and 1974, when Le Galion was forced to use that name instead of Snob.

 

Product Line:

Snob by Le Galion was offered in three distinct formulations—Parfum, Parfum de Toilette, and Eau de Snob Cologne—each designed to cater to different preferences and occasions, while maintaining the same central character of elegance and exclusivity. The variations provided a nuanced experience of the fragrance, allowing women to choose the intensity and longevity that best suited their needs.

The Parfum concentration was the most luxurious and potent form of Snob. Encased in ornate bottles that reflected the opulence of the perfume within, the Parfum was designed for special occasions or for those who sought a longer-lasting, more intimate scent experience. With its higher concentration of essential oils, the Parfum offered a deep, enveloping aroma that lingered on the skin, imparting the warm, floral aldehydic composition with remarkable intensity. It was a fragrance that demanded attention, a scent for the sophisticated woman who wanted to leave a lasting impression.

• 2 oz Parfum
• 1 oz Parfum
• 1/2 oz Parfum
• 1/3 oz Parfum
• 1/4 oz Parfum

The Parfum de Toilette was a slightly lighter version of the Parfum, ideal for daily wear or more casual settings, where the wearer might prefer something less overpowering yet still unmistakably elegant. With a reduced concentration of fragrance oils, the Parfum de Toilette presented Snob in a more airy, ethereal manner. The aldehydic sharpness at the top would remain vibrant, but the base notes of sandalwood, vetiver, and musks would settle more delicately on the skin, creating a refined but more accessible aura of sophistication. It was the perfect choice for a woman who desired a fragrance that balanced presence with subtlety.

• 2.5 oz Parfum de Toilette Refillable Spray
• 8 oz Parfum de Toilette Splash
• 4 oz Parfum de Toilette Splash
• 2 oz Parfum de Toilette Splash

Finally, the Eau de Snob Cologne offered the lightest, most refreshing version of the fragrance. This formulation was created for those who wanted a breezier interpretation of Snob, suitable for warmer weather or for moments when a more delicate and invigorating scent was desired. The Eau de Cologne carried the floral and citrus notes with a fresh vibrancy, making it an ideal choice for a day at the beach, a walk in the park, or a light touch-up during the day. While it was the least intense of the three, it retained the refined, polished character that was central to the Snob identity, providing a more approachable and versatile option for the fragrance connoisseur.

• 4 oz Eau de Snob
• 2 oz Eau de Snob

Combat, 1954:

"Eau de Snob by Le Galion: The finest Bulgarian rose. The most enchanting jasmine of dawn. It evokes the romance of lovers, the warmth of summer. The flowing skirts of women sway like delicate chalices, rivaling the intoxicating incense of the garden. In this setting, Madame Récamier welcomes Benjamin Constant, who will never again encounter a rose without his heart aching. At the end of an untraveled path, Manet captures the essence of Manon Lescaut in a portrait that lingers like a forbidden memory."

Each version of Snob reflected the brand's commitment to offering a fragrance that could be worn in different contexts, from the most intimate to the most public, while always maintaining an air of exclusivity and sophistication.

 

The Fate of the Fragrance:

By 1975, Snob by Le Galion had finally made its way into the United States, appearing on the shelves of high-end department stores across the country. The fragrance, with its luxurious floral aldehyde composition and rich, oriental base, fit seamlessly into the perfume landscape of the era. It resonated with women who sought opulent, sophisticated scents that embodied both elegance and sensuality. Snob made a statement, capturing the spirit of a time when bold, complex fragrances like Chanel No. 5 and Jean Patou’s Joy were still highly revered. In department stores, the fragrance was often displayed in elegant glass bottles, its floral and slightly animalic composition appealing to women who wanted to project refinement and exclusivity. For a while, it seemed that Le Galion had successfully reestablished itself in the competitive American market, offering a perfume that spoke to those with a taste for the finer, more timeless things in life.

However, by the late 1980s, despite its initial success, Snob began to fade from the spotlight. The brand, once known for its high-quality offerings, struggled to maintain relevance in a perfume world increasingly dominated by more commercialized and mainstream fragrances. Le Galion’s presence in the industry waned, and by the early 1990s, the company was effectively defunct. With the brand no longer in business, Snob—along with other Le Galion perfumes—was quietly discontinued. The fragrance that had once been a symbol of sophistication and luxury slowly slipped into the shadows, a forgotten gem from a bygone era. Its departure from the market marked the end of an era for the house of Le Galion, whose legacy would eventually be remembered only by collectors and fragrance enthusiasts who cherished the rare, classic perfumes the brand had produced.

Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 2014, Snob by Le Galion was reintroduced to the fragrance world, this time with a modern twist. The fragrance was reformulated by renowned perfumer Thomas Fontaine, who sought to capture the spirit of the beloved original while adapting it to today’s more regulated perfume landscape. The resurgent Snob was part of Le Galion’s larger revival, spearheaded by Nicolas Chabot and in collaboration with Dominique Vacher, the granddaughter of Paul Vacher, the original perfumer behind Snob. The relaunch of the house marked an important moment in the perfume world, blending the craftsmanship of the past with contemporary sensibilities.

However, creating a modern version of Snob was not without its challenges. The perfume had to comply with the strict regulations of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), which has imposed more stringent rules on fragrance ingredients in recent years, particularly regarding allergenic substances and environmental concerns. As a result, some key ingredients from the original formula, such as oak moss, were excluded. Oak moss, once a cornerstone of many classic perfumes for its earthy, damp, and woody depth, was deemed too risky under modern guidelines due to its potential to cause allergic reactions. Additionally, many of the raw materials originally used in Snob, whether due to scarcity, ethical concerns, or shifts in production methods, are no longer available, leaving Fontaine to find contemporary substitutes that would still evoke the same feeling of elegance and allure.

Despite these constraints, Fontaine managed to preserve the soul of the original Snob. The modern version retained the fragrance’s signature floral aldehyde character—still rich with the complexity of rose de Mai, jasmine, and tuberose, yet now softened and refined with today’s synthetic innovations. The result was a more delicate interpretation, with the opulence of the original softened to suit the tastes of today’s perfume consumer while respecting the timeless beauty of the original composition. The Snob relaunch served not only as a tribute to Le Galion’s storied history but also as a testament to the house's ability to adapt and evolve in the ever-changing world of fragrance.

Snob by Le Galion is a fragrance that evokes an air of unapologetic exclusivity, a fragrance that embodies a quiet, powerful presence with a certain je ne sais quoi. Le Galion describes it as "The Unapproachable bouquet," and rightly so—its composition is as captivating as it is elusive. Crafted to mirror the cool, impassive elegance of women from an era defined by restraint and sophistication, this fragrance was created in 1952 as an homage to the stoic allure of socialites who inhabited a world of privilege and poise. Those women, depicted in the pages of fashion magazines and films of the time, exuded a nonchalant confidence, and Snob sought to capture that same unbothered power. It is the kind of perfume worn by a woman who knows exactly what she wants and doesn't need to say a word to command attention.

 Complete olfactory pyramid:

• Top notes: Mandarin, bergamot, saffron, apple
• Middle notes: Rose, jasmine, orange blossom, iris
• Base notes: Australian sandalwood, Virginia cedar, musk

The top notes are a striking blend of green apple, ripe and ready to be bitten into, offering an immediate burst of crisp, almost tart freshness. This is soon joined by the bright, zesty notes of bergamot and mandarin, which bring a lively, citrusy sparkle to the opening, but also a subtle elegance, like the opening chords of a classical symphony. The heart of Snob blooms into a sophisticated floral bouquet, with rose, jasmine, and orange blossom creating a seamless, rich blend. These florals are not overpowering; instead, they weave together so effortlessly that they form an almost abstract accord. Each flower contributes its unique depth, but the beauty lies in their perfect balance, creating a bouquet so harmonious that the individual notes almost dissolve into one another. Iris, the olfactory signature of the fragrance, adds a touch of sophistication, lending the composition a velvet-like quality that elevates the entire experience, giving it that rarefied, aristocratic air.

As the fragrance begins to settle, Snob transforms into something more ethereal and unexpected. The final stage reveals an interplay of woody musk and musk, creating a trail that is soft, sensual, and undeniably personal. The fragrance becomes the wearer—it is not something worn over the skin, but something that seems to melt into the wearer’s very essence, leaving behind a trail of sophistication and mystery. This musky base carries the scent into the realms of the intangible, a perfect contrast to the pristine, structured florals that preceded it.

Snob is much more than the sum of its parts. As perfumer Thomas Fontaine explains, it is a bouquet so well-crafted that it transcends its individual notes and becomes an experience. It is a fragrance that lingers long after the wearer has left the room, creating an aura of grandeur and effortless elegance. This relaunch, with its modern reinterpretation of the original composition, still carries the spirit of the 1950s—timeless, untouchable, and powerful. Snob is a fragrance for those who wear their confidence like a second skin, for women who embrace their strength without needing to flaunt it, and for those who believe that luxury lies in understatement.

To purchase the latest version of Snob, you may visit their website at http://www.legalionparfums.com