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Vintage Perfumes For Sale

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Renaud

Renaud produced perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries of low to medium priced presentations.

Early History:


Renaud's boxes for perfume were often emblazoned with the 1817 date, please note that this is not the date of the perfume's manufacture, its is the date the perfumery company was said to be established.

However, doing some digging, I was able to uncover more facts about Renaud and the company that preceded it.

The company was originally named Laugier Pere et Fils, founded in 1756 by M. Laugier, and said to be the oldest perfumery establishment in Paris. It was taken over by Renaud in 1839 and renamed Renaud et Cie, then renaud et Cie was taken over by Joseph Sichel-Javal around 1840.

Perfume Intelligence says that Laugier Pere et Fils was established at 26, rue Bourg l'Abbe, Paris in 1814. Although I did find them officially listed as parfumeurs in the 1811 volume of Almanach du commerce de Paris (no address given). I also have them recorded in 1805 in my archives and listed at 31 rue Bourg l'Abbe, Paris.

The earliest date I have in my archives is 1789, where they are recorded in the Mercure de France as follows: "Parfumerie chez Laugier, Parfumeur de Grace on Provence. A Paris, rue Bourg-l'Abbé. Nous avous toujours fait mention de tout ce que Paris renferme de plus distingué dans tous les : ; à ce titre, la Manufacture de Parfumerie u Sr. Laugier ".

In the 1790 volume of Tableau Général du Commerce, des Marchands, the name is given as B. Laugier, a parfumeur who has a house in Paris.

Looks like one of the sons, Victor had a store at 21 rue d'Hanovre in 1820, and another son Antoine-Francois had the old shop at 26 rue Bourg l'Abbe in 1820.

Address Timeline Overview:

  • 1805 at 31 rue Bourg l'Abbe (Laugier Pere et Fils)
  • 1814 -1820 at 26 rue Bourg l'Abbe  (Laugier Pere et Fils and in 1820 just Antoine-Francois Laugier)
  • 1820 at 41 rue Bourg l'Abbe in the Chapelle Saint Denis near Paris and 89 grand rue, Grasse, département du Var  (Laugier Pere et Fils) 
  • 1820 at 21 rue d'Hanovre (Victor Laugier)


The composition of an Eau de Cologne by Laugier Pere et Fils was granted a patent of five years in 1812. The composition of their Eau d'Ispahan was also patented.

Laugier Pere et Fils was listed as a distiller of Eau de Cologne and Eau d'Ispahan in the 1824 French volume of Dictionnaire Chronologique et Raisonné des Découvertes: Inventions. It also mentioned that the company produced Eau Cosmetique and Savon Oriental.

Products by Laugier Pere et Fils mentioned in the 1826 book Dictionnaire de la Beauté, ou, La toilette sans Dangers, dans Lequel on Trouve by César Gardeton. Laugier Pere et Fils was listed as located at no. 41 rue Bourg l'Abbé, Paris.

List of the products mentioned:

  • Eau cosmétique pour conserver la beauté 
  • Eau fortement odorée pour la toilette 
  • Eau de lavande royale 
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Ambre
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Musc
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Héliotrope
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Vanille
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Maréchale
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Oeillet
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Bouquet Duchesse
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Mille Fleurs
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Rose
  • Eau-de-Vie de Lavande L'Orange
  • Eau régénératrice 
  • Eau Sanitaire
  • Eau vulnéraire
  • Eau d'arquebusade
  • Eau de Cologne de Laugier pere et fils
  • Eau d'Ispahan
  • Eau d'Achem
  • Eau des Alpes
  • Eau des Montagnes Françaises
  • Eau de Venus
  • Eau de La Vallière
  • Eau de Paris
  • Essence Parfumée (scented hair remover)
  • Parfum des Rois (antiseptic air freshener)
  • Poudre Pour de Dents (tooth powder)
  • Savon Belezan Sauboon (creamy scented soap)
  • Savon Philoderme 
  • Savon d'Ambrosie 
  • Crème de Savon a la Neige Parfumée
  • Savon d'Amande


"Eau d'Achem, this water is composed with plants that come from this famous country it is very pleasant by its perfume. Eau des Alpes, a drop of this water in a glass of sweet water forms a very pleasant orange flower water. Eau des Montagnes Françaises (Water of the French mountains), a drop of this water in a glass of sweet water forms a lemonade very graceful. Eau de Venus a demi-lotion for the figure that is to say on a half liter the quarter of the bottle spread in the water has the same effect as the ointments for the complexion. Eau de La Valliere as the water of Venus to make use of it. Eau de Paris same use as eau de Cologne it is perfected with patent."

Known List of Perfumes and Eaux by Laugier Pere et Fils:

  • 1816 Eau de Cologne
  • 1816 Eau d'Ispahan
  • 1826 Eau d'Achem
  • 1826 Eau de Lavande Royale 
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Ambre
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Musc
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Héliotrope
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Vanille
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Maréchale
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Oeillet
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Bouquet Duchesse
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Mille Fleurs
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande Rose
  • 1826 Eau-de-Vie de Lavande L'Orange
  • 1826 Eau de La Valliere
  • 1826 Eau de Paris
  • 1826 Eau de Venus
  • 1826 Eau des Alpes
  • 1826 Eau des Montagnes Françaises
  • c1844 Bouquet de la Reine  
  • c1844 Eau des Montagnes Russes  
  • c1844 Jonquille   
  • c1844 Vanille  
  • c1844 Verveine  
  • c1844 Jockey Club

In 1839, Laugier Pere et Fils was taken over by Renaud and renamed Renaud et Cie. This fact was mentioned in A. M'Elroy's Philadelphia Directory. Around 1840, Joseph Sichel-Javal took over the Renaud company and retained the Renaud name.


Rapport du Jury central, 1844:
Monsieur Sichel-Javal of 41 rue Bourg l'Abbé, Paris. M. Sichel Javal succeeded M. Laugier and Renaud. M Laugier had obtained a silver medal at the exhibition of 1834 for the good manufacture of his toilet and household soaps. This medal was recalled in 1839 in favor of M. Renaud, direct successor of M. Laugier. The central jury thinks it is right to grant a new reminder of this silver medal in favor of Mr. Sichel Javal who maintains this old factory at the height (of excellence) where M. Laugier had known how to reach it.

Rapport du Jury central, 1850:
"Sichel-Javal 41 rue Bourg l'Abbé, in Paris He acquired from Mr. Renaud an establishment operated originally by Mr. Laugier. The latter had obtained in 1834 a silver medal which the successive juries recalled in favor of M. Renaud his immediate successor and of M. Sichel-Javal himself. Mr. Sichel Javal's products are mainly manufactured for export. The central jury appreciating the good quality of these products judges that Mr. Sichel-Javal continues to be worthy of the distinction that he received and awards him the recall of the silver medal obtained by him in 1844."




Renaud's Perfumes:

Starting in 1928, the Renaud perfumes were advertised as long lasting because they were "specially processed in amber", which basically means that their main base note is ambergris, which acts as a fixative to prolong the fragrance. These perfumes will have "Ambree" added to their name such as "Sweet Pea Ambree".

Renaud described their Egyptia scent as "a perfume with a warm, oriental spiciness" and "the alluring fragrance of Egyptian perfumery."

L'Acacia was described as having "a slight tang of cut stems " and explains that "a breath from the desert comes to you from this rare odeur."

Notchenka, was one of the most expensive of the fragrances, retailing at $55 for one ounce and $125 for two ounces. Notchenka had a "light, spicy floral odeur". Renaud advertised the perfume as "Notchenka, Flower of the Little Night. All of the fascination and strange mysticism of old time Russia are reflected in this subtle fragrance. Notchenka, the exotic sweetness of a little blue flower of the land of the midnight sun. Price $55 per bottle."


Orchidee, was one of their best selling perfumes. In a 1929 advertisement, Renaud describes it as "One trembling drop of this rare exotic fragrance brings all the allure of far-off isles of the South Seas, the thrill of the forests and trackless jungles, the fascination of the desert oasis. Price $60 per bottle."

Sweet Pea, this is the one perfume that I have seen the most advertisements for. One such 1929 ad read: "True Sweet Pea by Renaud. The crowning achievement of this famous French house and the reward of a quarter of a century's research is this True Sweet Pea Perfume, price $37.50 per bottle."

Ghedma was billed as "the flowers of happiness" and retailed for $42.50 an ounce.



List of perfumes by Renaud:

  • 1919 L'Ile de France
  • 1919 L'Isle
  • 1920 Cour de Russie
  • 1920 Lubentia
  • 1920 Fleur de Manacao
  • 1920 Fleurs de Grasse
  • 1920 Forest of France/Foret de France
  • 1920 Jardins Celestes
  • 1924 Geraine (Rose Geranium)
  • 1925 Gardenia
  • 1925 Orchid
  • 1925 L'Acacia
  • 1925 Egyptia
  • 1925 Fragrance
  • 1925 Ghedma
  • 1925 Coeur de Russe
  • 1925 Sweet Pea
  • 1925 Spice of Life
  • 1925 Bouquet/Bocage
  • 1925 Orchid
  • 1925 Notchenka
  • 1926 Golden Lotus (bath salts)
  • 1926 Lavender (bath salts)
  • 1926 Chypre
  • 1926 Rose
  • 1926 Jasmin
  • 1928 Ambrée
  • 1928 Narcisse
  • 1928 Muguet
  • 1929 Magnolia
  • 1929 Lotus
  • 1929 Violet
  • 1929 Day & Night
  • 1929 Red Carnation
  • 1933 Fleur d'Olivier (Blossom of the Olive Tree)
  • 1934 Heliotrope
  • 1934 Lilas
  • 1934 Orange Blossom
  • 1936 Parfums of Royalty
  • 1940 Bateau Ivre
  • 1940 Sur Deux Notes
  • 1943 Glissade


Popular Mechanics, 1924:
"We Will Send Prepaid, no money down, 12 bottles of guaranteed rarest French Perfume made ​​by Renaud , Paris, world's finest Perfumers. One of These Odors was made ​ exclusively for Czarina of Russia before the war. Others have sold as $100 an ounce. Today you sell these 12 bottles assorted odors 50c each and remit to us after selling a total of $2.50. If you want to represent us give three references or cash in advance. Glee Products Co. Importers, Leicester, Mass."

The New Yorker, 1932:
"Pay $60 an ounce and you can give your loved one Renaud's Orchid."









Bottles:



Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1936:
"RENAUD'S "Parfums of Royalty" trio comes in individual flacons in French ivory containers for the purse,- three odors. Renaud also presents a new size flacon packaged in a jewel case holding 1/4 drams."


Opaque Glass Bottles:


The opaque slag glass bottles were manufactured by Cristalleries de Nancy during 1924-1934 and came in various shapes, this quick overview will discuss the rectangular bottle with rounded corners. Note: this bottle was also made in clear glass with a frosted stopper.

These bottles came in the following colors: red, coral orange, green, and black. The rarest of colors are yellow ochre, purple, white & turquoise. The bottle can also be found entirely covered in gold enamel. Oftentimes the bottles were color coded to the perfumes they contained: yellow for L'Acacia, green for Sweet Pea, purple for Orchid, white or green for Gardenia, red for Notchenka, gilded or red for Ghedma, red for Gerain, yellow for Cour de Russie.

The bottles with the pointed glass stoppers ranged in size from:

  • 3.5" tall
  • 2 3/4" tall
  • 2 7/8" tall
  • 2 1/8" tall













The square bottles with rounded shoulders with brass screw caps were used for the toilet waters and stood 3.5" tall and 4.25" tall. The base of the bottle is molded with "Renaud Paris 1817 made in France Patents Pending." A smaller version just under 2", meant to hold parfum was also used for carrying along in the handbag.





An unusual toilet water bottle also made by Cristalleries de Nancy was made in the opaque slag glass and stands 4 1/4" tall. The base is marked "Made in France".


The opaque glass was also used for the talcum powders, bath salts, Parfum en Poudre sachets, and creams in the 1920s and 1930s.

The talcum bottle was also used for bath salts and stands 5" tall and has a brass screw cap with a sifter fitted with a sliding closure (patented in 1921), when used for bath salts, it has a simple brass screw cap.

The squat Parfum de Poudre sachet bottle stands 2.5" tall and has a brass screw cap. 

Renaud also sold cosmetics in the slag glass containers, though you will mostly find the green ones. You can find little rouge compacts, face powder and face cream jars. The face powders came in the scents: Sweet Pea, L'Acacia, Geraine and Orchid.

The low round face cream jars measure 3" in diameter and stand 2.25" tall, they have brass screw lids. The taller cream jar stands 3 3/8" tall x 2 1/8" in diameter.






Stylo Flacons:


The cylindrical bottles were known as "stylo flacons" and had brass screw caps, this brass cap was patented in 1931. These bottles were housed in little leather jeweler's cases. Special editions held two or three bottles.

The first ones were made of clear cut glass and has glass inner stoppers with long thin daubers, The bottles had metal over caps.

The striped glass perfume vials were made in Germany for Renaud in the 1920s, the brass caps should be marked Germany.

Other stylos were made of opaque colored glass and have brass screw caps. These bottles were made by Kimble Glass Company and were first advertised in 1930 in the colors orchid, green and lavender.


Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 44, 1939:
"Pocket-size quantities of Renaud perfumes are put up colorfully in Kimble Glass vials with flashing metal screw caps and the whole ensemble is enclosed in attractive leather cases with snap or zipper closures."

Glass Packer, 1939:
"POCKET-SIZE QUANTITIES by Renaud. "The finest perfumes imported from France," are packaged by Dale S. Davis' Associates. Watertown, Mass., in glass vials supplied by Kimble Glass Co."













Cut Glass Flacon with Colored Glass Stopper:


Other flacons you may find are the tapering clear glass bottles fitted with colored glass stoppers.  These bottles have delicate etched designs on the outside and were made to imitate fine cut glass. 
The stoppers were available in blue, vaseline, peach, and amethyst colored transparent glass.

 The bottle was available in three sizes: 
  • 4.5" tall 
  • 3" tall
  • 2.75" tall

The bottles were made in France, and the taller size may have the acid etched mark on the base "Made in France".

These bottles were originally housed inside of a gilt octagonal presentation box topped by a gold and black silken tassel.

Los Angeles School Journal - Volume 12, 1928:
"Renaud Perfumes - Perfumes of Royalty $2.95 Cut glass bottles with colored stoppers. Subtle fragrance and gay loveliness is captured and sealed in these creations by Renaud - created to meet the new vogue of smart accessories. L'Acacia — A breath from the desert comes to you from this rare odeur. Egyptia — The alluring fragrance of Egyptian perfumery. Fragrance - In this marvelous odeur lies the fragrance of a bouquet of beautiful French flowers. Gardenia - The true perfume of the Gardenia."







Other Bottles:


Squat clear and frosted glass bottle with blue satin glass flower stopper (looks like the one used for Narcisse Noir by Caron but in blue glass instead of black. This bottle is unusual and rarely seen.

Notchenka:

This exquisite bottle is made up of jet black opaque glass and has it's molded details piqued out in nile green patina. The bottle was designed by Julien Viard and stands 3" tall. It was housed inside of a black and gold presentation box topped with a bullion tassel. The perfume originally sold for $55 when it was first introduced in 1928 but by 1932, it was selling for a drastically reduced price of $8.75.





Renaud Later....



Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1936:
"RENAUD'S "Parfums of Royalty" trio comes in individual flacons in French ivory containers for the purse,- three odors. Renaud also presents a new size flacon packaged in a jewel case holding 1/4 drams."


Drug and Cosmetic Industry, Volume 44, 1939:
"Pocket-size quantities of Renaud perfumes are put up colorfully in Kimble Glass vials with flashing metal screw caps and the whole ensemble is enclosed in attractive leather cases with snap or zipper closures."

Glass Packer, 1939:
"POCKET-SIZE QUANTITIES by Renaud. "The finest perfumes imported from France," are packaged by Dale S. Davis' Associates. Watertown, Mass., in glass vials supplied by Kimble Glass Co."


Federal Trade Commission, 1940:
"The Sweet Pea is naive, the Gardenia subtle, the Orchid exotic. Each comes in a lovely flacon that reposes in a gift box. Famous in France - RENAUD'S Perfume 3.95."

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