Celui by Jean Desses c1938

Celui by Jean Desses: launched in 1938. Created by Paul Vacher for Les Parfums Jean Desses. Advertisements of the day described it as "a perfume as soft as a secret".

The fragrance was first introduced at Desses' salon in Paris, where he lavishly sprayed the fragrance while showing his newest fall collection.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a zesty aldehydic top accented with hawthorn and the herbal facets of marjoram and oregano, followed by a rich floral heart of rose, jasmine, gardenia, heliotrope and violet, layered over a classic chypre base deepened with civet.

• Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, hyacinth, narcissus, marjoram and hawthorn
• Middle notes: oregano, violet, tuberose, rose de Mai, Egyptian jasmine, gardenia, orris and heliotrope
• Base notes: tonka bean, labdanum, cypress, vetiver, civet, ambergris, patchouli, musk, sandalwood and oakmoss

Fate of the Fragrance:

Celui has been discontinued for many years, it can be hard to find today. It was still being sold in 1972.

Bottles:

Celui was housed in a variety of flacons, many of them used for other Desses scents, all derived from the original designed by Pierre Camin. The Greek influence is strongly interpreted in the bottle's designs, some are reminiscent of the ancient fluted columns while others feature an egg and dart frieze of Neo-Classical design. The fragrance was elegantly packaged in shades of nasturtium and white which "can be discarded with no regrets," said the designer. Use this handy guide to help you determine the size of your bottles.

Parfum:

Parfum, also called extrait, parfum classic, extrait de parfum or extract, is the highest concentration of perfume. Vintage Desses Parfums can often contain at least 22-40 percent essential oils, a high grade alcohol, and a slight amount of water, compared to a parfum made today which may contain only 20-30 percent oils. Due to the high concentration of essential oils. Parfum can last 7 to 24 hours on the skin. Parfum is the most expensive type of perfume.

Frosted Amphora Parfum Bottles:

The parfum concentration for Celui was housed inside of a beautiful frosted glass bottle. This exquisite bottle was designed by Pierre Camin and was a replica of an ancient Greek amphora in the Louvre. It is of amphora shape, fluted like Grecian columns and has a frosted glass stopper. This bottle was also used for the other Jean Desses perfume, Kalispera. All of the succeeding Desses flacons are based off of this original design.

The bottle came in three sizes:

• 1/8 oz bottle has gilded brass screwcap
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 3.25"
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 3.75"

 

Melon Ribbed Desses Amphora Parfum Flacon:

This is a clear, non-frosted, amphora shape with wide melon rubbed sides rather than fluting. It came in at least two sizes and held the parfum. It can be found in other Desses scents.

• 1 oz
• 2 oz 

"Evening Edition" Parfum Travel Flacon:

This amphora shaped bottle holds 1/8 oz of parfum and is made up of gilded brass. It is leakproof and meant to carry in a handbag. The bottle was presented in a antelope suede covered rigid case lined with a white satin interior. These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

Combat, 1959:

"Here is the latest of the delightful presentations that a great couturier gave to his first perfume: That of Jean Dessès. Bottle for the evening, gilded with fine gold, in a beige antelope case, lined with midnight blue satin. Can be found at the Jean Dessès boutique, 12, roundabout of the Champs Elysees."

Combat, 1963:

"The new Kalispera perfume is presented in a deliberately dark bottle, equipped with a new hermetic cap for travel."

Realities - Issues 204-209, 1963:

"Celui from Jean Dessès bottle crystal blue lined and trimmed by hand of Baccarat crystal, with leaf-shaped frame, gold, signed Mauboussin." 

 

Standard Desses Parfum Bottle:

Some of the Celui parfums are housed in tapered cylindrical shaped clear crystal bottle with ground glass stoppers and decorative gilded brass collars. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses perfumes. The 1/6 oz parfum bottle has a gilded brass screwcap so it will not leak inside the handbag. The 0.25 oz bottle has a mother of pearl type cap.

• 1/6 oz parfum purse bottle has gilded brass screwcap
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 2" tall.  (originally retailed for $12.50)
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall.  (originally retailed for $20)
• 1 oz bottle stands 3" tall. (originally retailed for $36)
• 2 oz bottle stands 4" tall.
• 4 oz bottle  

 

 

  

Parfum de Toilette:

The Parfum de Toilette was a lighter version of the Desses parfum, however, its strength would be equivalent to today's Eau de Parfum concentrations. As a lighter version due to the alcohol content, it differs little from the Parfum in aroma. Vintage Desses Parfum de Toilettes were often made up of 15-20 percent essential oils with a slightly weaker alcohol and water mix. These were highly concentrated compared to today's eau de parfums which are composed of 10-15 percent of essential oils. Parfum de Toilettes usually last about 4-8 hours.

It does not have the longevity of the Parfum as it was meant to splashed liberally over the body for a refreshing effect, mainly after bath or exercise or to boost the Parfum already applied to the skin but which may have faded. Many women who love a particular perfume may find that it is a bit too overpowering to be worn during the day, but that its Parfum de Toilette are just that much lighter to make it an acceptable day perfume too.  

Glass Stoppered Parfum de Toilette:

The Parfum de Toilette was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  

Modified amphora shaped bottle with ground glass stoppers. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval.  These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

• 2 oz bottle stands 6" tall.
• 4 oz bottle stands 7.5" tall
• 8 oz 
• 32 oz

Plastic Stoppered Parfum de Toilette Used for Travel:

Modified amphora shaped bottle with plastic screw caps. Bottles made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These were also used for other Desses fragrances.

• 2 oz
• 4 oz
• 8 oz bottle stands 7" tall

Eau de Cologne Parfumee:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was a lightest version of the Desses scent which was incorporated with the classic citrus notes of a traditional eau de colognes. I believe that this concentration was equivalent to today's Eau de Toilettes. Vintage Eau de Toilettes often can contain up to 5-15 percent essential oils and were much more concentrated than modern formulas. Eau de Toilettes usually last about 3 hours. 

As an eau de cologne, it differs from the Parfum de Toilette in both composition and aroma. It does not have longevity as it was meant to be splashed liberally all over the body or sprayed throughout the day to freshen up. Perfect for wearing during daytime, or during the warmer months or warmer climates.

Eau de Cologne Parfumee Glass Stoppered Bottles:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle, not frosted, but polished clear crystal and topped with clear glass and lucite acrylic cap. This bottle was meant to sit upon the vanity table. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.  

• 2 oz
• 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
• 4 oz 
• 8 oz bottle bottle stands 6" tall.
• 16 oz bottle 

 

Eau de Cologne Parfumee Flacon Pour Le Voyage:

The Eau de Cologne Parfumee was contained in a modified amphora shaped bottle topped with a black plastic screw cap. Bottle was made in France by Pochet et du Courval. These bottles were also used for other Desses scents.

• 2 oz
• 3 oz bottle stands 5" tall
• 4 oz 
• 8 oz bottle 
• 16 oz bottle stands 6" tall.

Perfume Sets:

Generally offered either as limited editions or only available during the Christmas holiday, these delightful perfume sets made excellent gifts for the traveler. 

Trousse de Voyage:

Leather Cased Travel Set composed of two bottles of clear and frosted glass, fluted, column styled fluted of demilune shape meant to fit against one another an oval leather case, each bottle has gilded brass screwcaps. The leather was available in either red or black. These were also used for other Desses fragrances. The set originally retailed for $45.  

• 0.75 oz Parfum bottle stands 2.5" tall
• 2 oz Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 4.75" tall.

Parfum & Parfum de Toilette Baccarat Flacons:

Kalispera was also presented in heavy Baccarat crystal bottles housed in a handsome jewel case luxuriously covered in antelope leather and lined with white satin. This was originally created as a gift for the new queen of King Constantine. It was offered to the public at $500 per set. The first twelve sent to the USA were purchased quickly in Dallas, but more sets were on the way to be sold nationwide. The set included two bottles: 

• Parfum de Toilette bottle stands 6" tall.
• Parfum bottle stands 5" tall.

 

Connaissance des arts, 1963:

"In its Baccarat crystal decanter, it's a classy gift. ... that can be used as a jewelry box, created by the great couturier Jean Desses."

Art Direction, 1964:

"Celui Kalispera Jean Desses. A rose by any other name. To introduce in this country a long established, expensive ...The bottle itself has been a prize winner in seven European design competitions, and is made of Baccarat crystal."

Travel Set with Atomizer:

This beautiful set includes a single crystal bottle of parfum, its leakproof screwcap and optional atomizer hardware. The set was housed inside of a brocade covered box lined with white satin.