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Friday, January 27, 2023

273 by Fred Hayman c1989

273 Rodeo Drive for Women by Fred Hayman: launched in 1989. Created by Florasynth. The name is taken from Hayman's address on North Rodeo Drive and is the first to be released under his own name after he sold the Giorgio empire to Avon in 1987. 



273 was named for the Beverly Hills address of Hayman's famous boutique on Rodeo Drive. Hayman, still riding high on the success of his first fragrance, Giorgio, said that the two fragrances are completely distinct. "Giorgio is a classic. Two Seventy Three is in a class by itself, another great perfume, made by a great company." But like Giorgio, 273 was created by the talented perfumers at Florasynth. Hayman asked perfumer Jean Louis Scziuzac to "think of something tropical and hot and sensual; think of your lover." Hayman also instructed Scziuzac to create fragrances without any regard to expense, but had a requirement, "make me something I can sell for about $65 an ounce."

While the packaging is important to make it stand out on the shelves, "You can't do anything without the fragrance itself," Hayman said. 




It took Florasynth a year and a half to come up with the potential samples and Hayman used a test panel to evaluate the 1,000 submissions, all in anonymous, numbered vials. The eleven-woman panel, were made up of his best customers in Beverly Hills, whom he felt had impeccable taste. When he had a handful of vials he felt were the most interesting he'd call up his VIP ladies and invite them to an elaborate luncheon, complete with champagne of course. The ladies would sniff smelling strips and spritz on samples, then would rate the fragrances on a scale of one to five. Hayman knows he has a winner when he gets a good amount of 3+ responses. At the end of the luncheon, the ladies leave with samples to try on their friends. 

Hayman said "They work hard at it and some have 'noses', they could be perfumiers. These women have a perfume wardrobe. They have perfumes they wear to dinner and perfumes they wear after a workout and perfumes for summer and winter. They know that great women have a special aura that's partly created by fragrance and they take it seriously."

Hayman remarked, "You either like it right away and fall in love with it, or you don't. Perfume is a very subjective business. It's like food. The really great fragrances demand a response and it may be love or hate." 

Hayman described the final choice, which he christened 273, as long lasting, but more subtle than Giorgio. He said it is an exotic white floral bouquet dominated by gardenia, tuberose and jasmine. Hayman said, "It's a signature. It's sensuous. Two Seventy Three has all the qualities of a class fragrance. The longer you wear it, the better it becomes. It seduces you."

A "very black tie" launch party for the new fragrance was held at Universal Studios. The party also marked the rechristening of his store, now known as Fred Hayman Beverly Hills. Gone were the store's iconic yellow and white striped awnings, now replaced with red and yellow awnings. Among the fur draped, diamond studded high society crowd, actress Sharon Gless was in attendance, clad in a chic black dinner suit, while actress Valerie Perrine wore an elegant  tuxedo-inspired suit with a lace jabot and matching pocket square. TV personality, Vanna White wore a full-length gown luxuriously covered in glittering gold sequins. Maureen Reagan also wore a golden hued ball gown which she said she "got it from Fred Hayman." Patricia Fox, public relations director at Saks Fifth Avenue wore a violet and brown satin gown by Oscar de la Renta and was accessorized with a striking pair of fuchsia gloves. Publicist Wanda Henderson, wore a gown shrouded in brown feathers, playfully said she would "molt at midnight."

For the introduction of the 273 perfume, Hayman was very selective on how it would be distributed. He was disappointed that Avon had diluted the Giorgio Beverly Hills brand by allocating the perfumes to more and more retail outlets. By allowing the fragrances to be widely available, it soon lost its cache of exclusivity. It was upon this disheartening knowledge that Hayman scrupulously decided to only offer the 273 fragrance in his own shop and certain chosen department stores.

Hayman did reluctantly confess that it was difficult to resist the numerous demands from various retail outlets who wanted to carry the Giorgio fragrance. "But I will this time because I'm convinced small is beautiful," he said. At first, 273 was to be sold solely through the Fred Hayman boutique. The perfume debuted in the boutique in January 1989 and in New York later, making its first appearance just in time for Christmas, in a special three-day preview at Nordstrom stores. According to Anne Rosenfeld, sales and promotional director for Nordstrom, 273 officially went on sale in late January of 1990. With the exception of Hayman's boutique, Nordstrom was to be the only location on the west coast where customers could purchase 273 prior to the official introduction in spring of 1990.

273 was elevated to "prestige" status and was considered pricey compared to other fragrances on the market. Hayman said "There's always a market for the best." A quarter-ounce bottle of the parfum retailed for $70 and the one-ounce bottle for $185. On the lower end, 2.5 oz of the cologne retailed for $45. 

Hayman was cognizant of the merchandizing paradox: how to satisfy demand enough to stimulate public interest in the product without losing the particular appeal that limited stock supplies. He was also aware that his product would be competing with high profile celebrity scents such as Cher's Uninhibited and Elizabeth Taylor's White Diamonds. 

Familiar with the "incredibly saturated" market for fragrances, Hayman understood that the lifespan of perfumes is frequently as short as 12 to 24 months. Truth be told, if a fragrance sticks around on the shelves for at least four years or so, like it did with Giorgio, it is considered a franchise from which successful spinoff products can be derived such as ancillary items or flanker scents. He was hopeful that that the 273 fragrance would gain the popularity that the Giorgio fragrance enjoyed for years after its debut.

"The Sexiest Women In Beverly Hills Have Fred Hayman's Number. From Fred Hayman, founder of the Giorgio® phenomenon, comes his new blockbuster fragrance, 273. A sensuous, exotic bouquet of natural flowers, 273 is the signature fragrance of Fred Hayman Beverly Hills. Wealthy. Elegant. Wildly seductive "




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a white floral oriental fragrance for women with woody and fruity facets. It was reportedly made up of over 250 precious and costly ingredients, its key notes being gardenia, tuberose and jasmine.

A fresh, contemporary floral, it invites you to experience its fruity notes of plum, peach and apricot, followed by the narcotic opulence of gardenia, tuberose and jasmine, and smolders to a conclusion with the heat of amber and sandalwood gentled with vetiver and lightly touched with spices.
  • Top notes: tuberose, gardenia, plum, peach and jasmine
  • Middle notes: peach, apricot, orris root and ylang-ylang
  • Base notes: spices, sandalwood, amber, vetiver and cedar

273's components were expensive and so was its packaging. 

Bottles:


The bottle design was created by Fred Hayman. It is shaped like a sculpted pyramid, with a pointed crystal stopper and embellished with a 24-karat gold band with the 273 logo engraved in red. While some associate pyramids with power, he said the bottle has no mystical significance other than he just liked the shape. "People can read into the shape whatever they wish," he said. Packaged in bright yellow, reminiscent of the Giorgio hue and coincidentally Hayman's favorite color, and fire engine red are used for 273, as well as for Hayman's boutique.


In 1989, one ounce of the Exceptional Perfume (parfum) retailed for $185, by 1991, the price went up to $195 per ounce.

This line was available in the following products:
  • 1 oz Exceptional Perfume
  • 1/4 oz Exceptional Perfume
  • 1/4 oz  Exceptional Perfume Refillable Purse Spray
  • 1/8 oz Exceptional Perfume Mini
  • 2.5 oz Exceptional Cologne Spray
  • 5 oz Exceptional Moisturizing Body Lotion
  • 5 oz Exceptional Body Shower Gel
  • 5 oz Exceptional Dusting Powder


A man's fragrance was also launched in 1989, 273 for Men,  a crisp chypre fragrance, with a subtle blend of woody and amber notes. The fragrance was housed in a black matte colored bottle in black packaging. In 1992, a special edition 1 oz Spray Cologne was launched. Also in 1992, a travel size set of men's essentials was released: 0.5 oz Cologne Spray, 1.7 oz Exceptional Shower Gel and 1.7 oz Exceptional After Shave Balm.

The men's line was available in the following:
  • 2.5 oz Exceptional Spray Cologne
  • 2.5 oz Exceptional After Shave Lotion
  • 2.5 oz Exceptional After Shave Balm
  • 1.7 oz Exceptional After Shave Balm
  • 1.7 oz Exceptional Shower Gel
  • 1.5 oz Moisture Lotion
  • 0.5 oz Exceptional Spray Cologne
  • 1 oz Exceptional Spray Cologne
  • 1/8 oz Exceptional Cologne Mini





Fate of the Fragrance:



In 1994  Parlux acquired the Fred Hayman fragrance line. Parlux Fragrances currently still manufactures and markets all of the Fred Hayman Beverly Hills fragrances. These fragrances were renamed from "273 for Women" to "273 Rodeo Drive for Women". The "273 for Men" fragrance was renamed "273 Rodeo Drive for Men" and was still housed in the black bottle, but was presented in yellow packaging instead of the black packaging.



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