Hahna by Rosine c1919

In the early 20th century, particularly around the time of Hahna's launch in 1919, Europe was captivated by a trend known as Japonism, a fascination with Japanese art, culture, and aesthetics. This movement heavily influenced fashion, art, and even perfumery in Western societies. Paul Poiret, a prominent figure in French fashion at the time, was known for his avant-garde designs and was deeply inspired by the Orient, particularly Japanese motifs and themes. His designs often featured kimono-style silhouettes, intricate embroidery, and bold use of colors and patterns reminiscent of Japanese textiles.

Against this backdrop of Japonism, the launch of Hahna perfume by Rosine in 1919 reflects the prevailing cultural interest in Japanese elements. The name "Hahna," derived from the Japanese word "hana" meaning "flower," aligns with the trend of incorporating exotic and mystical Eastern references into Western luxury goods. Poiret and other contemporaries would have appreciated the evocative power of a name like "Hahna," conjuring images of delicate blossoms, serene gardens, and the allure of the mysterious East.

For women of the time period, a perfume named "Hahna" would have offered a sense of escapism and sophistication. The fragrance, subtitled "L'Étrange Fleur" (The Strange Flower) and "La Fleur Secrète" (The Secret Flower), suggests an air of mystery and allure, promising wearers a unique olfactory experience akin to discovering a hidden, exotic bloom.

Henri Alméras, the creator of Hahna, would have crafted a fragrance that embodied the essence of its name—a blend of floral notes designed to transport wearers to a distant, enchanting world. The name "Hahna" itself would have been interpreted as both elegant and avant-garde, reflecting the zeitgeist of the early 20th century fascination with the Orient.

Emotionally, "Hahna" evokes a sense of intrigue, beauty, and otherworldliness—attributes that were highly sought after in luxury perfumes of the time. The exoticism associated with the name would have appealed to fashionable women eager to embrace new trends and indulge in sensory experiences that transported them beyond the confines of their daily lives.

In conclusion, "Hahna" by Rosine represents a convergence of artistic movements and cultural influences of its time, particularly Paul Poiret's fascination with Japanese aesthetics during the era of Japonism. The name itself, derived from "hana," meaning "flower" in Japanese, encapsulates the allure of the exotic East and would have resonated deeply with women seeking sophistication and escapism through fragrance. Its uniqueness lies in its ability to evoke images of distant lands and exotic blooms, making it a fitting and memorable choice for a perfume crafted during an era marked by cultural exploration and artistic innovation.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a green floral oriental fragrance for women. It was described as "a light fragrance that is a blending of many flowers. Well suited to the younger person."

• Top notes: violet leaves, thyme, verbena, water mint, green tea, bergamot, lotus, lemon
• Middle notes: geranium, coriander, jasmine, rose, tuberose, lily of the valley, ylang ylang and mignonette
• Base notes: galbanum, patchouli, myrrh, labdanum, opoponax, vanilla, oakmoss, ambergris, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, tonka bean

 

It was advertised as the "mysterious flower, magical ylang ylang or enchanted lotus, springing from a tale of the Thousand & One Nights." The advertising description makes clear that "Hahna" is a fragrance woven with tales of wonder and enchantment, reminiscent of the exotic and mystical world depicted in the "Thousand & One Nights." The mention of ylang ylang and lotus as "mysterious" and "enchanted" flowers adds to the allure, suggesting a scent that is not just beautiful but also imbued with a sense of magic and allure. It's as if wearing "Hahna" could transport one to the heart of an Arabian tale, where every waft of fragrance whispers secrets of ancient gardens and fantastical adventures.

Rosine advertisement, 1924:

"Parfum d'Hahna, L'Etrange Fleur. The perfume of damp mosses, of early blooms and shoots unfolding, near the bright waters amongst the mint and thyme. One dreams of the early awakening of spring, the buoyant dash and brilliance of the first fine days. A selection of Poiret's from the Parfums Rosine."

Scent Profile:

In the heart of a secluded Japanese temple garden, where whispers of ancient wisdom lingered amidst the tranquility, there bloomed a flower of extraordinary allure and mystery—Hahna. Its fragrance, a green floral oriental symphony, unfolded like a tale told in whispers of petals and leaves.

As the sun dipped low on the horizon, casting a golden hue over the landscape, the garden came alive with the soft rustling of violet leaves dancing in the breeze. Thyme and verbena intertwined their herbal notes, weaving a tapestry of freshness that hung lightly in the air. Nearby, water mint added a cool, invigorating touch, while green tea leaves unfurled their earthy aroma, carried gently by the breeze that swept through the garden.

Amidst the verdant foliage and beside the tranquil pond where koi fish glided serenely, the lotus blossomed. Its delicate petals, kissed by the fading light, exuded a sweet, ethereal fragrance that mingled with the citrusy zest of bergamot and lemon. Here, amidst the lotus blooms, the enchantment of "Hahna" began to weave its spell.

As dusk deepened, the garden revealed its heart. Geranium and coriander emerged, their spicy warmth blending with the intoxicating allure of jasmine and rose. Tuberose added a creamy richness, while lily of the valley lent a whisper of innocence to the unfolding fragrance. Ylang ylang, with its exotic sweetness, wove through the air like a sigh of longing, mingling with the subtle charm of mignonette.

Beneath the canopy of ancient cherry blossom trees, their petals fluttering down to carpet the ground in soft pink, the base notes of "Hahna" began to resonate. Galbanum and patchouli brought forth the scent of damp mosses and early blooms, while myrrh and opoponax infused the air with the sacred aroma of ancient rituals. Vanilla and ambergris added a warm, sensual depth, while the woody notes of sandalwood and vetiver grounded the fragrance in the earthy essence of the temple's surroundings.

In this enchanted garden, "Hahna" by Rosine unfolded its layers like chapters in a captivating tale—a fragrance that whispered of timeless beauty and youthful exuberance, perfectly suited to those who embraced the promise of new beginnings and the allure of the exotic Orient. Each inhale brought forth a new verse, a new revelation of its complexity and charm, leaving an indelible impression of a journey into the heart of botanical wonder and serene tranquility.

 

Like French perfumery Molinard had done with their famous Habanita scent - Rosine offered perfumed cigarettes and the ampoules of the exotic scents of Borgia, Le Balcon, Hahna, Maharadjah, Nuit de Chine and others.

Revue des marques de la parfumerie et de la savonnerie,1927:

"The perfume factory erected under the pretty name of Rosine already has fifteen springs. The robust youth places it in the number of the best reputed Parisian Perfumeries. Created by Mr. Paul Poiret, it became in 1925 - (and this to respond to the industrial and commercial development required by the reception given to its products) - an independent company to which Mr. Paul Poiret continues to bring the learned taste and refinement of an artist. Each of his productions has been a new success. Yes, no one knows Nuit de Chine Toute la Foret, Qui Est Tu?, Avenue du Bois, Hahna (the Secret Flower), Arlequinade, Maharadjah, etc.These perfumes, presented in an original and luxurious way,  constitute the whole range of a new and unexpected taste perfectly developed. No woman today is insensitive to Parfums de Rosine."

The excerpt from Revue des marques de la parfumerie et de la savonnerie, 1927, paints a vivid picture of Rosine's ascent in the world of perfumery under the guidance of Paul Poiret. It highlights not only the longevity of the brand but also its reputation for excellence and innovation.

The mention of perfumed cigarettes and exotic scents like Borgia, Le Balcon, Hahna, Maharadjah, and Nuit de Chine speaks to Rosine's commitment to offering unique and luxurious fragrances that catered to the tastes of discerning clientele.

The description emphasizes Paul Poiret's continued involvement in the company, ensuring that each creation reflects his refined artistic sensibilities. The success of Rosine's perfumes, presented in original and luxurious packaging, indicates their widespread appeal and influence in shaping the olfactory landscape of the time.

Altogether, this passage captures the essence of Rosine as a pioneering and influential force in the world of perfumery during the early 20th century, with each fragrance representing a harmonious blend of artistry, sophistication, and innovation.

Bottles:

The packaging of Rosine's "Hahna" fragrance is a testament to luxury and meticulous craftsmanship, designed to complement the exotic allure of its scent. The usual bottle is crafted from square-shaped clear crystal, embellished with frosted molded flowers that add a touch of delicacy and refinement. Topped with a red bakelite cap resembling coral, the bottle exudes sophistication and artistry, echoing the beauty of the lotus flower that inspires its fragrance.

Nestled within a square cardboard presentation box, the packaging further enhances the allure of "Hahna." Wrapped in gilded coral-colored red chromolithographed paper adorned with Japanese floral decorations and false ideograms, the box invites the imagination to wander to distant lands of elegance and mystery. The intricate detailing and vibrant colors of the packaging evoke a sense of exoticism and opulence, setting the stage for a sensory journey that begins even before the fragrance is unveiled.

Inside the box, the bottle rests within a white satin fitted interior, ensuring both protection and an added layer of luxury. This meticulous attention to detail not only showcases Rosine's commitment to quality but also enhances the overall sensory experience of "Hahna." From the delicate floral motifs on the bottle to the ornate presentation box, every element of the packaging reflects the brand's dedication to offering a complete and enchanting olfactory journey.

Described in the Oregon News as a "flagon of gold and red" housed in a "Chinese kind of box of lacquered gold with flower decorations," the packaging of "Hahna" continues to captivate imaginations with its cross-cultural appeal and timeless elegance. It encapsulates the essence of Rosine's "L'Etrange Fleur," inviting consumers into a world of beauty, sophistication, and the mysterious allure of the East. This exquisite packaging, coupled with the fragrance's enchanting aroma, ensures that "Hahna" remains a coveted piece of olfactory artistry that transcends mere scent to become a cherished sensory experience.

Hahna came in several size bottles:

• 1/2 oz
• 3/4 oz 
• deluxe bottle which was a 1 2/3 oz size

The availability of "Hahna" in various bottle sizes catered to different preferences and needs of consumers. The 1/2 oz and 3/4 oz sizes would have been ideal for those who preferred smaller quantities or wanted to carry the fragrance with them for on-the-go use.

The deluxe bottle, sized at 1 2/3 oz, likely appealed to those who desired a larger supply of the fragrance for regular use or as a centerpiece for their vanity. This size would have provided ample product while still maintaining the luxurious presentation and quality associated with Rosine's offerings.

By offering "Hahna" in multiple sizes, Rosine ensured that consumers could enjoy the fragrance in a way that suited their lifestyle and preferences, further enhancing its accessibility and appeal.

The deluxe version of this bottle is of square-shaped silver metallic or gold biscuit with reserve decoration of stamped flowers, with its bakelite cap imitating red coral. It was housed inside the same bottle used for the crystal edition. Excellent condition. Height: 8.5cm.

 The Gazette Times - Oct 26, 1924:

"Paris sends us these alluring perfumes, created by Rosine, a master perfumer. Only French genius can produce such distinctive odeurs, contained in artistic flasks, charmingly packaged...  Arlequinade, in gold decorated flask, with red tassel. $25. Hahna, L'Etrange Fleur in a gold finished bottle. $22."

The description from The Gazette Times in 1924 provides further insight into the deluxe version of the "Hahna" fragrance bottle, highlighting its exquisite design and craftsmanship. The square-shaped silver metallic or gold biscuit bottle, adorned with stamped flowers and a bakelite cap resembling red coral, exudes elegance and sophistication.

Housed inside the same bottle used for the crystal edition, this deluxe version likely offered a more opulent presentation, appealing to those who sought a truly luxurious experience. The mention of its  dimensions, with a height of 8.5cm, further emphasizes its quality and attention to detail.

The pricing information provided in the excerpt reflects the premium nature of Rosine's perfumes, with "Hahna, L'Etrange Fleur" priced at $22 for the gold-finished bottle. This pricing places it within the higher end of the market, reserved for those who valued exclusivity and refinement in their fragrance choices.

The description captures the allure of Rosine's perfumes as creations of French genius, encapsulated in artistic flasks and charming packaging, further solidifying their reputation as coveted and desirable fragrances of the time.

Hahna was also presented in a standard omnibus flacon that was used for other Rosine fragrances. It was a less expensive version, made up of clear crystal and fitted with a green glass button stopper. The red paper label is identical to the one used on the other Hahna bottles. These perfume bottles were produced by French glass manufacturer Lefebure.

The availability of "Hahna" in a standard omnibus flacon, alongside other Rosine fragrances, provided a more accessible option for consumers who appreciated the scent but sought a less expensive presentation. Made of clear crystal and fitted with a green glass button stopper, this version retained the essence of the fragrance while offering a more modest packaging compared to the deluxe editions.

The use of a red paper label identical to those used on other "Hahna" bottles ensured consistency in branding and recognition for consumers familiar with the scent. This standardization in labeling would have helped maintain the cohesive identity of the fragrance across different packaging variations.

The production of these perfume bottles by the renowned French glass manufacturer Lefebure likely ensured high quality and craftsmanship, even in the more affordable omnibus flacon version. This attention to detail and commitment to excellence would have contributed to the overall appeal and desirability of "Hahna" among consumers of varying preferences and budgets.

La parfumerie française et l'art dans la présentation, 1927:

"Is there a prettier name than Rosine? And didn't the fairy who watched over her birth predestined this child to be the queen of perfumes, since her name was derived from the Rose, queen of flowers. So judged his parents. After realizing, and with what success! the symphony of colors in the charming drapes which today model the half-naked of women, the unparalleled artist that is Paul Poiret, did he not take it into his head to create from scratch a perfumery factory which was good to him. What name to give it? By blue that of his daughter. So much so that one would almost suspect that he designed this one for that one at the same time. Perfumes, colors and tones respond to each other, he says in the preface to his catalog, which is itself a marvel. He seems to have intuitively understood the language of flowers, and it is apparently for you, ladies, that he has enclosed questions and answers in these menus, bottles which each constitute an object of art in deep, intimate and complete harmony. with the scent they contain. 

Reading the catalog is a poem. Each perfume name is an evocation of dreams. "Le Minaret" transports us to the land of harems. To smell this perfume so well veiled in its Turkish case, one feels seized by the torpor of the beautiful sultanas, stretched out languorously in the middle of the cushions on the large sofa which calls for caresses. With "Toute la Foret," we are surrounded by greenery. A smell of wet earth, mushrooms, ferns, envelops us. The Fauns pursue the Nymphs. Take care. "La Nuit de Chine" poses a troubling and topical problem. Wait for the response. "Borgia", evokes the scenes of the Grand Guignol, murders and bloodthirsty passions, which are still imbued with the scents of Venice, by the starry nights. "Le Fruit Defendu," this title alone is enough for all women to want it. It is eminently psychological and of all times. But what smell can it have? Try. Why name them all? Whether it's "Hahna, l'etrange fleur" or "Bosquet d'Apollo," of "Antinea" or "Arlequinade", you can be certain, ladies, that the exquisite aromas, the most fragrant flowers, the most delicate balms have been brought together to provide you with the most pleasant of sensations, the annihilation of your senses, in a delicious dream. Here are some views of the Rosine factories, fitted with all the modern refinements."

The excerpt from "La parfumerie française et l'art dans la présentation" in 1927 beautifully captures the essence and philosophy behind Rosine, conveys the image of the brand's ethos and its founder, Paul Poiret's, creative vision.

The association of the name "Rosine" with the rose, the queen of flowers, suggests a destiny intertwined with perfumery, reflecting the brand's dedication to creating fragrances of unparalleled beauty and allure. Paul Poiret's decision to name the perfumery after his daughter further adds a personal touch and sense of connection to the creations.

The catalog, described as a poem, transports readers into a world of dreams and evocative scents. Each perfume name becomes an invitation to embark on a sensory journey, from the exotic allure of "Le Minaret" to the mysterious charm of "La Nuit de Chine" and the seductive appeal of "Le Fruit Defendu."

The catalog's preface, which emphasizes the harmony between perfumes, colors, and tones, underscores the meticulous attention to detail and the pursuit of artistic excellence evident in Rosine's creations. The description of the Rosine factories as fitted with modern refinements further highlights the brand's commitment to innovation and quality craftsmanship.

For the most part, this excerpt eloquently captures the enchanting world of Rosine perfumes, where artistry, sensuality, and imagination converge to create fragrances that transport and captivate the senses.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued in 1930 and remaining stock was sold at drastically reduced clearance prices, some leftover stock was still being sold in 1940.

It's not uncommon for fragrances, even beloved ones like "Hahna," to eventually be discontinued due to various reasons such as changes in consumer preferences, market dynamics, or production constraints. The fact that remaining stock was sold at drastically reduced clearance prices and some leftover stock lingered until 1940 suggests that while the fragrance may have been discontinued, its legacy endured, with enthusiasts still able to enjoy it for some time afterward.

The clearance sales likely provided an opportunity for consumers to purchase the remaining bottles at more affordable prices, allowing the scent to continue to be appreciated by those who cherished it. Even after its official discontinuation, "Hahna" may have left an indelible mark on the world of perfumery, remembered fondly by those who experienced its enchanting aroma.