Navy by Cover Girl c1990

Navy was launched in 1990 in collaboration with Cover Girl, a division of the Noxell Corporation. Procter & Gamble's acquisition of Noxell in October 1989 paved the way for this expansion of their product portfolio, with Navy perfume becoming one of the notable additions. This fragrance was quite popular during its time and became a staple for many fragrance enthusiasts.

This was meant to represent "a new look for Cover Girl and a very new look for the Procter & Gamble Co." as P&G chairman and chief executive Edwin L. Artzt told a coterie of cosmetic execs. It was at this meeting held in New York in early January 1992, Artzt told the execs that P&G planned to eventually get into the expensive end of the perfume business in the USA. It already had a small presence through the EuroCos line of Betrix Products, a German business P&G acquired several years before. The EuroCos brand marketed the Hugo Boss for men and Laura Biagiotti's Roma fragrances for women in US department stores. Those products already had a major presence in Europe.

The launch of Navy perfume represented a strategic move for Cover Girl and a new direction for Procter & Gamble. Edwin L. Artzt's announcement signaled P&G's intention to venture into the high-end perfume market in the United States. This decision was part of a broader strategy to expand their presence in the beauty and fragrance industry. With the acquisition of Betrix Products and the EuroCos line, P&G had already established a foothold in the European fragrance market, offering popular brands like Hugo Boss and Laura Biagiotti's Roma. Expanding into the US market with Navy perfume and potentially other high-end fragrances demonstrated P&G's ambition to diversify and grow its portfolio in the beauty sector.

 

"At the time we acquired Noxell the development of Navy was pretty far along," Don Tassone said. "With some additional work we brought it to the marketplace soon after the acquisition. It quickly became one of the leading mass fragrances for women. Building on that, P&G began developing the new Incognito fragrance, also from Cover Girl. This is the first brand we have managed from the start, again building on learning we gained with our experience from Navy."

Don Tassone's statement highlights the strategic timing of Procter & Gamble's acquisition of Noxell and the subsequent launch of Navy perfume. By acquiring Noxell, P&G inherited the development of Navy, which was already in an advanced stage. With some additional refinement and strategic planning, they successfully brought Navy to market shortly after the acquisition. The perfume quickly gained popularity, becoming one of the leading mass fragrances for women.

Building on the success and experience gained from Navy, P&G continued to innovate within the fragrance market. The development of the new Incognito fragrance, also under the Cover Girl brand, marked P&G's proactive approach in managing a fragrance brand from its inception. By leveraging the lessons learned from Navy, P&G aimed to further strengthen its position in the fragrance industry and continue to deliver successful products to consumers.

Procter & Gamble, owner of some of the world's best known health and beauty care products, was not new to the sphere of fragrance. P&G developed its own for years as well as buying millions of pounds from other manufacturers for its bar soaps, detergents and many other products. But the company was respectively a newcomer in the retail perfume business. P&G first got into the cosmetics business with acquisitions of Richardson-Vicks in 1984; the Noxell Corp. (maker of Cover Girl, Clarion and Noxema) in the fall of 1989; as well as Giorgio Beverly Hills Inc from Avon Products Inc, and two Revlon divisions in 1991 (Max Factor & Betrix).  This resulted in annual sales of $4.3 billion in the cosmetics category by 1992.

Procter & Gamble's foray into the retail perfume business marked a new chapter in its extensive history in the health and beauty care industry. While the company had been involved in fragrance development for its own products for many years, entering the retail perfume market represented a significant expansion of its portfolio.

P&G's journey into cosmetics began with strategic acquisitions, such as Richardson-Vicks in 1984 and the Noxell Corporation in 1989, which included well-known brands like Cover Girl, Clarion, and Noxema. Additionally, acquisitions of Giorgio Beverly Hills Inc from Avon Products Inc, and two Revlon divisions in 1991 (Max Factor & Betrix) further bolstered P&G's presence in the cosmetics sector.

These acquisitions contributed to a substantial increase in annual sales, with the cosmetics category alone generating $4.3 billion in sales by 1992. This rapid growth and expansion solidified P&G's position as a major player in the health, beauty, and cosmetics industry, setting the stage for further innovation and success in the years to come.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich, fresh, fruity floral oriental fragrance for women.  

• Top notes: green notes, peach
• Middle notes: orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose
• Base notes: amber, musk, vanilla, coriander, cinnamon

Navy offers a complex blend of notes that create a captivating and elegant scent profile:

• Top notes: The initial impression is marked by fresh green notes, complemented by the sweet and juicy aroma of peach.

• Middle notes: As the fragrance evolves, it reveals a rich floral bouquet featuring notes of orange blossom, jasmine, ylang-ylang, and rose. These floral elements add depth and sophistication to the composition.

• Base notes: The fragrance settles into a warm and sensual base, with notes of amber and musk providing a cozy, inviting backdrop. Vanilla adds a creamy sweetness, while coriander and cinnamon contribute a hint of spice, balancing the overall composition.

Overall, Navy perfume offers a harmonious blend of fruity, floral, and oriental notes, creating a distinctive and memorable fragrance experience for the wearer.

Bottles:

 

The design and manufacturing process for Navy perfume's bottle involved collaboration with renowned industry experts. Pierre Dinand, a prominent designer in the fragrance world, was responsible for crafting the distinctive bottle design in 1989. The manufacturing of the bottle itself was entrusted to Pochet et du Courval, a prestigious glassmaker with a long history of producing high-quality packaging for luxury fragrances.

Additionally, AMS Packaging (Atelier Moulage Spécialisé), a French company specializing in the manufacture of luxurious injection-molded plastic packaging, supplied the plastic components for the Navy perfume bottle. This collaboration ensured that the final product not only reflected the essence of the fragrance but also embodied elegance and sophistication in its design and craftsmanship.

 

 Fate of the Fragrance:

In 1996, Procter & Gamble made a strategic decision to put seven of its mass market fragrances up for sale as a package. These fragrances included:

• Navy
• Navy for Men
• Jaclyn Smith's California
• California for Men
• Incognito
• Le Jardin
• Toujours Moi

By offering these fragrances as a package deal, P&G sought to streamline its product portfolio and focus on other areas of its business. This decision may have been influenced by various factors, such as changes in consumer preferences, market dynamics, or strategic realignment within the company.

Kimberly Steward, a spokesperson in P&G's Maryland-based cosmetics division said that the sale encompassed basically the company's entire mass fragrance business in the USA. "There's still some debate about what's in and what's out in Europe," she said. The sale was part of P&G's year-old program to rid itself of minor, underperforming and non-strategic brands. 

Steward's statement sheds light on the scope of Procter & Gamble's decision to sell its mass fragrance business in the USA. By putting these fragrances up for sale, P&G aimed to divest itself of brands that were considered minor, underperforming, or non-strategic within its portfolio. This move was part of a broader initiative that had been ongoing for about a year, focusing on streamlining P&G's brand portfolio and reallocating resources to more strategic areas of its business.

While the sale primarily encompassed P&G's entire mass fragrance business in the USA, there were still some discussions and debates about which brands would be included or excluded from the sale in Europe. This indicates that the decision-making process might have been nuanced and involved considerations specific to different regions or markets.

P&G President Durk Kager said, "Mass fragrances make up a relatively small business for us, compared to our much larger cosmetic and fine fragrance business." He further explained that "We want to focus our resources on building cosmetics, with Cover Girl and Max Factor, and our fine fragrances, through our Giorgio, Hugo Boss and Laura Biagiotti brands."

Jager's statements underscore Procter & Gamble's strategic priorities regarding its fragrance business. By characterizing mass fragrances as a relatively small portion of its overall business, P&G signaled its intention to prioritize other segments, particularly cosmetics and fine fragrances, where it saw greater growth potential and strategic importance.

Focusing resources on building cosmetics, particularly with flagship brands like Cover Girl and Max Factor, aligns with P&G's goal of strengthening its presence in the cosmetics market. These brands likely offered higher profit margins and stronger growth prospects compared to mass fragrances.

Additionally, Jager highlighted P&G's commitment to developing its fine fragrance business, emphasizing established brands like Giorgio, Hugo Boss, and Laura Biagiotti. These brands likely held greater appeal in the premium fragrance market, offering P&G opportunities for further expansion and brand-building efforts.

Altogether, Jager's remarks reflect P&G's strategic decision to concentrate its resources on areas of its business with the highest potential for growth and profitability, while divesting from less strategic or underperforming segments like mass fragrances.

These were bought up by the Dana Perfumes Corporation in 1996. Dana Perfumes Corp. took over many other companies such as Corday, Helena Rubinstein, Cover Girl (Noxell), Shulton (Old Spice), Max Factor (Le Jardin, Toujours Moi), Canoe, Houbigant (Chantilly) and Jaclyn Smith (California) perfumes. Dana bought out the rights to these companies and produced their perfumes, sometimes reformulating them and keeping the original well known names.

Dana Perfumes Corporation's acquisition of Procter & Gamble's mass fragrance brands in 1996 marked a significant expansion of its portfolio in the fragrance industry. By acquiring brands such as Navy, Navy for Men, Jaclyn Smith's California, California for Men, Incognito, Le Jardin, and Toujours Moi, Dana Perfumes Corp. gained a diverse range of well-known names with established reputations in the market.

In addition to these P&G brands, Dana Perfumes Corp. also took over other companies such as Corday, Helena Rubinstein, Cover Girl (Noxell), Shulton (Old Spice), Max Factor (Le Jardin, Toujours Moi), Canoe, Houbigant (Chantilly), and Jaclyn Smith (California) perfumes. This extensive acquisition strategy enabled Dana Perfumes Corp. to expand its presence and influence in the fragrance industry significantly.

Following the acquisitions, Dana Perfumes Corp. often reformulated the fragrances while retaining the original, well-known names. This approach allowed the company to leverage the brand recognition and customer loyalty associated with these names while potentially updating and refreshing the fragrances to appeal to contemporary tastes and preferences.

In 1995, Dana ("Les Parfums de Dana") was purchased by Renaissance Cosmetics, Inc. Renaissance Cosmetics was acquired by Fragrance Express, Inc. and the investment house of Dimeling, Schreiber & Park. Dana now became the "New Dana Perfume Corporation." Fragrance Express, Inc. was purchased by National Boston Medical Inc. 

In 2004, New Dana announced that it was closing it's 40 year old Mountain Top facility in Wright Township, Pennsylvania. At this time, two Danas were using the facility: New Dana Perfume, Inc., which manufactures, fills, and stores Dana products, and Dana Classic Fragrances, Inc., which owns the trademarks to the Dana fragrances and markets and sells the Dana perfume line.

The journey of Dana Perfumes Corporation, from its acquisition by Renaissance Cosmetics, Inc. to its later restructuring and closure of its Mountain Top facility, reflects the evolving landscape of the fragrance industry and the challenges faced by companies in adapting to changing market dynamics.

Following its acquisition by Renaissance Cosmetics, Dana Perfumes Corporation underwent changes in ownership and structure, ultimately becoming the "New Dana Perfume Corporation." Subsequent acquisitions by Fragrance Express, Inc. and the investment house of Dimeling, Schreiber & Park further reshaped the company's ownership landscape.

In 2004, New Dana announced the closure of its Mountain Top facility in Wright Township, Pennsylvania, which had been operational for 40 years. This decision likely reflected strategic considerations, such as cost optimization or consolidation of manufacturing operations.

Despite these changes, fragrances like Navy continue to be available through various online discount shops. Consumers seeking the original vintage formula may need to look for boxes and labels marked with Noxell or Cover Girl, as these could indicate the earliest formulations of the fragrance. It's noted that Dana's newer formulas may have been adjusted to comply with IFRA (International Fragrance Association) restrictions on certain ingredients, potentially resulting in reformulations to align with regulatory requirements while maintaining the essence of the fragrance.

Navy for Men:

Navy for Men offers a refreshing and sophisticated fragrance experience with its distinctive blend of notes:

• Top notes: The scent opens with a crisp and invigorating combination of juniper, tangerine, and wildwater mint. These citrus and herbal notes provide a vibrant and energetic start to the fragrance.

• Heart notes: The heart of Navy for Men features the aromatic warmth of geranium and nutmeg. These spicy and floral elements add depth and complexity to the composition, balancing the freshness of the top notes.

• Base notes: The fragrance settles into a smooth and masculine base, characterized by the richness of leather and the earthy warmth of siam wood. These notes impart a sense of sophistication and strength, creating a lasting impression.

Navy for Men's creation by Firmenich's LifeScent technology likely enhances the overall olfactory experience, ensuring longevity and depth to the fragrance profile. Overall, Navy for Men offers a modern and versatile scent that is suitable for various occasions, from daytime to evening wear.

Firmenich's LifeScent technology represents an innovative approach to fragrance creation that aims to capture the essence of natural scents and extend their longevity in perfumes. While specific details about LifeScent technology are proprietary to Firmenich, the company has described it as a breakthrough in fragrance technology that allows perfumers to recreate the authentic and dynamic scent experience of natural ingredients.

LifeScent technology purportedly utilizes advanced techniques and ingredients to mimic the complexity and evolution of natural scents over time. This may involve the use of encapsulation or other delivery systems to release fragrance notes gradually, ensuring a more prolonged and consistent scent experience throughout the day.

Additionally, LifeScent technology may focus on enhancing the emotional and sensory aspects of fragrances, aiming to evoke specific memories or feelings associated with natural scents. By leveraging scientific advancements in fragrance chemistry and formulation, Firmenich seeks to push the boundaries of olfactory innovation and create perfumes that resonate with consumers on a deeper level.

Overall, Firmenich's LifeScent technology represents a fusion of art and science in the fragrance industry, enabling perfumers to craft compelling and enduring scent experiences that captivate the senses.