Black Pearls by Elizabeth Taylor c1996

The perfume "Black Pearls" by Elizabeth Taylor was launched in 1996, a period characterized by a resurgence of classic glamour and a renewed appreciation for timeless elegance. The mid-1990s saw a blend of modernity and nostalgia, with fashion and beauty trends often harking back to vintage styles while incorporating contemporary elements. This era was marked by a fascination with luxury, heritage, and the allure of Hollywood's golden age, making it an ideal time for the introduction of a fragrance inspired by a legendary jewel and a celebrated actress.

Elizabeth Taylor chose the name "Black Pearls" for her perfume as a homage to her renowned black pearl, La Peregrina. This exquisite pearl, with its storied history, encapsulated the essence of Taylor's own life—glamorous, dramatic, and timeless. La Peregrina had once belonged to royalty, including Mary, Queen of Scots, and Philip I of Spain, underscoring its regal and historical significance. By naming her perfume "Black Pearls," Taylor not only highlighted the unique beauty of the gem but also drew a parallel between the allure of the jewel and the fragrance itself. This connection to an iconic piece of history and personal memorabilia added depth and intrigue to the perfume's narrative.

Richard Burton's purchase of La Peregrina for $37,000 at Sotheby's in 1969 as a Valentine's Day gift for Elizabeth Taylor further amplified the romantic and luxurious aura surrounding the pearl. In 1972, Taylor commissioned Al Durante of Cartier to design a bespoke ruby and diamond necklace mount for La Peregrina, transforming it into a stunning and personalized piece of jewelry. This context of love, opulence, and exclusivity made "Black Pearls" an appropriate name for a perfume, as it conveyed a sense of sophistication, passion, and uniqueness.

"Black Pearls" would resonate with women who appreciate elegance, luxury, and a touch of mystery. These women would likely be drawn to the fragrance for its association with Elizabeth Taylor's iconic beauty and her legendary romance with Richard Burton. They would see the perfume as a symbol of timeless allure and an embodiment of their own refined taste and desire for distinction. The name "Black Pearls" evokes images of rare and precious beauty, deep and enigmatic like the ocean's depths, and the captivating charm of a classic Hollywood starlet.

The word "Black Pearls" conjures feelings of mystery, sensuality, and elegance. It brings to mind the rich, lustrous glow of a black pearl, symbolizing something both exotic and rare. This imagery is enhanced by the historical and romantic associations with La Peregrina, adding layers of allure and sophistication. Women who wear "Black Pearls" would likely feel empowered, glamorous, and connected to a legacy of beauty and romance, embracing the perfume as a statement of their own inner strength and captivating charm.

Black Pearls by Elizabeth Taylor, created by Sophia Grojsman of IFF and launched in collaboration with Elizabeth Arden (then a division of Parfums International), encapsulates this narrative of luxury and elegance. The fragrance's composition would be expected to reflect Taylor's own refined taste and her penchant for rich, sensual scents, making it a fitting tribute to the timeless allure of black pearls and the legendary actress who inspired it.

The Inspiration:

Elizabeth Taylor's 16th-century black pearl, La Peregrina, once owned by Mary, Queen of Scots, and Philip I of Spain, serves as the inspiration behind her "Black Pearls" perfume. This extraordinary jewel embodies a rich history and royal legacy, making it a fitting muse for a fragrance that seeks to capture the essence of timeless elegance and regal beauty. La Peregrina, meaning "The Pilgrim" or "The Wanderer," aptly reflects Taylor's own storied life and illustrious career, marked by her enduring charm and captivating presence.

In 1969, Richard Burton purchased La Peregrina for $37,000 at Sotheby's as a Valentine's Day gift for Elizabeth Taylor. This gesture symbolized not only their passionate love affair but also their shared appreciation for rare and precious artifacts. In 1972, Taylor commissioned Al Durante of Cartier to design a one-of-a-kind ruby and diamond necklace mount for the pearl, further enhancing its splendor and personal significance. This necklace, an emblem of Taylor's exquisite taste and Burton's grand romantic gestures, was prominently featured in her book, "My Love Affair with Jewelry," published by Simon & Simon.

In her book, Taylor recounts the intense emotions and near-tragic mishap involving La Peregrina at Caesar's Palace. She describes the thrill of receiving the pearl on a delicate chain and her subsequent panic when she discovered it was missing. Her detailed narrative reveals her deep attachment to the jewel and the lengths she went to recover it. The pearl's temporary disappearance, ultimately found in the mouth of her Pekingese puppy, underscores its irreplaceable value and the anxiety it induced. This story, filled with suspense and relief, illustrates Taylor's profound connection to La Peregrina and her ability to weave personal anecdotes into the legendary status of her jewelry.

When Elizabeth Taylor passed away, the La Peregrina, mounted on the Cartier necklace, was sold at auction by Christie's in 2011. The auction aimed to raise funds for the Elizabeth Taylor

AIDS Foundation, which Taylor established to provide direct services globally for people living with AIDS. Christie's estimated La Peregrina's value between $2 million and $3 million, making it the second highest-valued lot of the auction. The only piece with a higher estimate was Taylor's famous diamond ring, valued between $2.5 million and $3.5 million. In a fitting tribute to Taylor's legacy, the auction of her legendary jewels surpassed all expectations, with La Peregrina selling for $11,842,500. This sale set two new world auction records: one for a historic pearl and another for a pearl jewel. La Peregrina now resides in private ownership, continuing its journey through history.

The name "Black Pearls" for Taylor's perfume is particularly appropriate given the black pearl's rarity, beauty, and historical significance. Just as La Peregrina is a unique gem with a storied past, the fragrance aims to capture a sense of sophistication, mystery, and timeless allure. The association with such a legendary jewel lends the perfume an air of exclusivity and refinement, appealing to women who appreciate luxury and history.

Women drawn to a fragrance called "Black Pearls" would likely be those who see themselves as elegant, confident, and possessing a sense of mystery. They would relate to the story behind the name, feeling a connection to the legacy of Elizabeth Taylor and her celebrated life. The perfume would evoke images of opulence, classic beauty, and a touch of intrigue. The name "Black Pearls" conjures feelings of sensuality, depth, and an enduring allure, much like the deep luster of a black pearl itself.

The launch of Black Pearls in 1996, in collaboration with Elizabeth Arden, reflects the era's fascination with celebrity fragrances and the public's enduring admiration for Elizabeth Taylor. Created by renowned perfumer Sophia Grojsman, the fragrance encapsulates Taylor's glamorous persona and the rich history of La Peregrina. The scent, much like the jewel, is intended to be a timeless classic, a testament to Taylor's legacy and her love affair with beauty and luxury.

The Launch:

The fragrance Black Pearls by Elizabeth Taylor was initially slated for a grand launch in September 1995. By mid-spring, press kits and advertisements were sent out, creating significant buzz and anticipation. Elizabeth Taylor herself announced the upcoming project in a prepared statement, highlighting its significance as a celebration of the fifth anniversary of her successful White Diamonds fragrance. However, the launch faced unexpected challenges and was ultimately aborted due to several issues.

Taylor and Elizabeth Arden, the company behind the perfume, were both displeased with what could be described as mismanagement of the launch. The president of Elizabeth Arden even resigned amidst the debacle. One major problem was the distribution plan for Black Pearls, which prompted a six-month delay. The parent company, Unilever, struggled to appease leading department store chains such as Federated Department Stores, which owned Marshall Field's, Dayton's, and Hudson's, all of which wanted exclusive rights to distribute the new fragrance.

A significant dispute arose between Elizabeth Arden and the department stores over promotional expenses for in-store personnel who provided beauty advice to customers. Arden decided to cut the contribution paid to department store retailers for the salaries of retail salespeople from the industry standard of 5% to 3% of retail sales. This refusal to contribute to commission incentives led upscale stores like Macy's and Marshall Field's to opt out of carrying Black Pearls. Without distribution through these high-end department stores, Black Pearls risked being sold only through more mainstream outlets like Sears and JC Penney.

Elizabeth Taylor was notably upset by the decision to distribute Black Pearls at Sears and JC Penney rather than upscale department stores like Bloomingdale's and Jordan Marsh. She had envisioned her fragrance being sold in more prestigious settings, aligning with her brand's luxurious image. Elizabeth Arden, on the other hand, aimed for high volume sales through mass market stores, which conflicted with Taylor's preference for exclusivity.

As a result, the planned introduction of Black Pearls in the fall of 1995 was put on hold. Despite the delay, miniature bottles of the scent had already appeared for sale in some JC Penney stores. The launch had been backed by an elaborate $12 million advertising campaign, with media time already purchased and ads running in various magazines, even though the product was not widely available. This premature advertising led to wasted millions on magazine ads and scent strips.

In late August 1995, Elizabeth Taylor and Elizabeth Arden mutually agreed to cancel the fall launch, rescheduling it for March 1996. The decision marked an attempt to resolve the distribution issues and align the product release with both Taylor's and the company's visions. The delayed launch aimed to ensure that Black Pearls would enter the market successfully, balancing exclusivity with broader sales opportunities.

Marketing:

In a creative promotional strategy devised by CBS during "sweeps week," Elizabeth Taylor made a memorable appearance across four Monday sitcoms on February 26, 1996, to launch her new fragrance, Black Pearls. The network orchestrated a special crossover event where Taylor guest-starred as herself in each of the four comedies: "The Nanny," "Can't Hurry Love," "Murphy Brown," and "High Society." This unique marketing stunt featured Taylor involved in a humorous and engaging storyline centered around the missing Black Pearls necklace.

The adventure unfolded when Fran Drescher, starring in "The Nanny," was tasked with delivering the priceless black pearl necklace to the location of Taylor's Black Pearls commercial. However, in a comedic twist, she accidentally leaves the valuable jewel in a taxi. The story continued in "Can't Hurry Love," where Nancy McKeon's character, Annie, discovers the necklace and wears it, only to misplace it. The intrigue surrounding the missing necklace escalates as Taylor is interviewed about the situation by TV journalist Candice Bergen on "Murphy Brown." The caper reaches its resolution on the "High Society" show, where the lost necklace is finally found.

To support the launch of Black Pearls, Elizabeth Taylor planned an extensive promotional tour, starting with a high-profile event in New York City on April 17, 1996. This whirlwind seven-city tour was designed to generate excitement and awareness for the fragrance, leveraging Taylor's star power and the buzz from the CBS sitcom appearances.

Elizabeth Arden anticipated substantial success for Black Pearls, projecting a wholesale volume of $20 million to $25 million within the first year of distribution. By May 1996, the fragrance was made available in approximately 1,800 retail outlets across the United States, marking its entry into the market and fulfilling the promotional promise set by the high-profile campaign. The creative crossover event and Taylor's extensive promotional efforts were pivotal in establishing Black Pearls as a noteworthy addition to the fragrance market.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh fruity floral-oriental fragrance for women.  It's a rare and exotic blend of peach, gardenia, bergamot, water lily, rose and lotus, underscored by amber, sandalwood and musk. 

• Top notes: peach, orange, gardenia and bergamot 
• Middle notes: water lily, white cloud rose and lotus
• Base notes:  amber, sandalwood and musk

A soft, sensuous, modern oriental fragrance. The clarity of fresh bergamot and elegance of a peach and gardenia accord combined with bergamot expresses the initial image. Water lily, white cloud rose and living lotus brings a sheer sensuality to the fragrance. A lasting impression of velvety richness is created through warm, exotic amber, sandalwood and musk.

Scent Story:

Imagine the grand voyage of La Peregrina, the legendary pearl, as it journeys through time, paralleling the creation and allure of Elizabeth Taylor's Black Pearls fragrance. This remarkable story begins in 1513, when the pearl, weighing a staggering 223.8 grains, was discovered off the Pearl Islands in the Gulf of Panama by a humble negro slave. The discovery of this pear-shaped gem—so large and lustrous that it was unlike anything ever seen—sparked a chain of events that would carry it across continents and centuries.

The journey of La Peregrina, meaning "the Pilgrim" or "the Wanderer," starts with its entrance into the Spanish Crown Jewels under King Ferdinand V or his successor, Charles V. Imagine the opulence of the Spanish court during this period: the scent of polished wood and the rich aroma of incense filling grand halls, mingling with the crisp, salty tang of the sea as courtiers and royals admired the gem. The pearl, shimmering with a soft, iridescent glow, became a symbol of immense value and beauty.

In 1554, La Peregrina was gifted by Phillip II to Queen Mary I of England, known as Mary Tudor or Bloody Mary, in anticipation of their marriage. The court of England, with its lavish banquets and the clinking of fine crystal goblets, was alive with the fragrance of roses and fresh citrus fruits, which blended with the earthy notes of damp stone and wood. The pearl's appearance at Queen Mary's court would have been a spectacle, its gleaming surface reflecting the candlelight and the intense, sometimes tumultuous emotions of the time.

After Queen Mary’s death in 1558, the pearl returned to Spain, where it continued to dazzle Spanish royalty. For over 250 years, La Peregrina remained in Spain, witnessing the rise and fall of empires and the shifting tides of history. As the scent of orange blossoms and the earthy aroma of cedar wood lingered in the air, La Peregrina was cherished by each queen consort, becoming a cherished part of Spain’s regal heritage.

In 1808, the arrival of Napoleon Bonaparte and his brother Joseph Bonaparte in Spain brought change. As Napoleon’s forces captured Madrid and Joseph fled, La Peregrina was carried with him, thus earning its moniker "the Wanderer." Picture the frantic escape, the mingling scents of gunpowder and smoke with the faint, sweet fragrance of lavender and the musk of leather as the pearl traveled from Spain to France.

Joseph Bonaparte later left the pearl to his nephew, Charles Louis Napoleon, who, due to financial troubles, sold it to the 2nd Marquess of Abercorn in London. The pearl’s journey thus returned it to England, where it joined the ranks of aristocratic jewels. The scent of English gardens and the refined elegance of the Duke’s estate surrounded La Peregrina, its opulence echoing in the fragrant blooms and the subtle hints of aged oak in the stately manor.

The final chapter of La Peregrina’s saga unfolds in 1969 when Richard Burton, with deep affection for Elizabeth Taylor, purchased the pearl for $37,000. Taylor’s love for La Peregrina was profound, and in 1972, she commissioned Cartier to mount it on a ruby and diamond necklace. The aroma of fresh roses and bergamot, the clean scent of newly cut grass, and the luxurious notes of rich sandalwood and amber would have been a fitting backdrop to this significant moment.

Elizabeth Taylor’s Black Pearls fragrance, inspired by La Peregrina, captures the essence of this storied gem. The perfume opens with fresh and fruity top notes of peach, gardenia, and bergamot, evoking the vibrancy and opulence of the royal courts that once cherished La Peregrina. As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals the delicate and sensual notes of water lily, white cloud rose, and lotus, reflecting the pearl’s ethereal beauty. Finally, the base notes of amber, sandalwood, and musk provide a warm, exotic richness, mirroring the pearl's enduring legacy of luxury and allure.

In this way, the story of La Peregrina and the fragrance Black Pearls are intertwined, each reflecting the timeless elegance and mystique of a journey that has spanned over 500 years and touched the lives of royalty and collectors alike.

Bottle:

Elizabeth Taylor's Black Pearls fragrance was introduced with an opulent and distinctive bottle design that perfectly encapsulated her love for black pearls. The glass bottle itself features a striking frosted shell-inspired shape with polished sides that reflect light in a captivating way. The neck of the bottle is adorned with a collar of electroplated metal, which is embellished with Swarovski crystals arranged in a flame pattern. This luxurious detail adds a touch of elegance and sophistication to the design.

The stopper of the bottle is equally impressive, topped with a finial in the shape of a teardrop, crafted from faux black pearl. This choice of stopper is a tribute to Elizabeth Taylor's fascination with black pearls, reflecting their classic beauty and rarity. The meticulous design process involved considerable back and forth between Taylor and the bottle designer, Susan Wacker-Donle, to ensure that the shape and iridescence of the faux black pearl matched the allure of a genuine Tahitian black pearl. The flame-encrusted collar and stopper pattern were personal touches added by Taylor, emphasizing her desire for the design to reflect her own sense of style and luxury.

The overall packaging design, spearheaded by Susan Wacker-Donle, who led Art Direction, Bottle Design, and Design & Production Direction for Elizabeth Taylor Fragrances, is completed with a rich gold paper-covered presentation box. This packaging further enhances the fragrance's high-end appeal and complements the opulence of the bottle.

The meticulous and elegant design of Black Pearls earned recognition in 1996 when it won the Mobius Award's First Place Statuette. This accolade highlighted the exceptional craftsmanship and creative vision behind the product's packaging, cementing its status as a noteworthy entry in the world of luxury fragrances.

Product Line:

The Black Pearls fragrance collection was designed to cater to various preferences and needs, offering a range of products that showcased the elegance of Elizabeth Taylor’s signature scent.

The collection included a 0.12 oz parfum miniature, a perfect size for those who wanted to experience the fragrance in a compact, travel-friendly format. This miniature bottle captured the essence of Black Pearls in a concentrated form, making it an ideal choice for on-the-go use or as a collectible item.

For a more substantial dose of luxury, the 0.25 oz parfum provided a slightly larger quantity of the concentrated scent. This size was designed for those who appreciated the intensity of pure parfum, offering a richer and longer-lasting experience of the fragrance.

The Black Pearls Eau de Parfum was available in two sizes: 1.7 oz and 3.3 oz. These larger bottles provided a more generous supply of the scent, catering to regular users who desired a longer-lasting presence of Black Pearls in their fragrance wardrobe. The Eau de Parfum concentration offered a balanced blend of intensity and subtlety, perfect for daily wear or special occasions.

In addition to the perfume offerings, the Black Pearls line also included body care products such as body lotion and bath & shower gel. The body lotion was formulated to complement the fragrance, leaving the skin soft and subtly scented with the elegant notes of Black Pearls. The bath & shower gel allowed users to immerse themselves in the fragrance experience from the moment they stepped into the shower, creating a cohesive and luxurious bathing ritual.

Together, these products provided a comprehensive range of options for enjoying Black Pearls, reflecting Elizabeth Taylor’s dedication to creating a complete olfactory experience that extends beyond just a perfume.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Black Pearls experienced significant changes over the years, most notably due to a reformulation that occurred around 2008-2009. The original version of Black Pearls, which debuted in 1996, was housed in distinctive frosted glass bottles that elegantly captured the essence of the fragrance. These frosted bottles were designed to evoke the luxurious allure of black pearls, enhancing the sensory experience with their sophisticated and textured appearance.

The reformulated version of Black Pearls, which followed the original formula, was presented in clear glass bottles. This change in packaging reflected a shift in the fragrance’s presentation, moving away from the opulent frosted glass that characterized the initial launch. The clear glass bottles, while still stylish, lacked the unique texture and visual depth of the original packaging, which had been an integral part of the fragrance's identity.

Despite the reformulation and discontinuation of Black Pearls, collectors and enthusiasts can still find bottles of the original formula available for purchase online. These bottles, with their frosted glass and distinctive design, continue to hold appeal for those seeking to experience or reminisce about the original scent. The availability of the original formula online underscores its enduring popularity and the lasting impact of its original presentation.

CLICK HERE TO FIND BLACK PEARLS BY ELIZABETH TAYLOR