Si by Schiaparelli c1957

In 1957, when Schiaparelli launched her perfume "Si," it was a time marked by post-war optimism and a resurgence of creativity in fashion and art. The name "Si" carries a multifaceted significance that intertwines with both music and the essence of Schiaparelli herself. Derived from the "Valse des Si," a waltz composed by Henri Sauguet dedicated to Schiaparelli, "Si" resonates with musical notes, particularly the note B, and also serves as a play on the French word for "yes" and the English pronoun "it." The name cleverly incorporates the first and last letters of Schiaparelli's surname, embodying a personal touch that reflects her bold and innovative spirit.

Additionally, the association with Juliette Gréco's song "Si" adds another layer of cultural resonance. Gréco, known for her avant-garde style and artistic expression, infused the song "Si" with emotional depth and modernity, mirroring Schiaparelli's approach to fashion and fragrance. Thus, "Si" as a perfume name not only captures musical inspiration but also embodies a sense of sophistication, allure, and artistic flair that defined the era.

The choice of "Si" as a perfume name would have resonated deeply with individuals who appreciated Schiaparelli's avant-garde designs and sought to embody her unique blend of creativity and elegance. Those attracted to the perfume would likely respond with intrigue and admiration, drawn to its evocative name and the promise of a fragrance that encapsulated Schiaparelli's daring and innovative vision.

"Shocking You," a phrase associated with Schiaparelli, evokes a sense of boldness, surprise, and even defiance. It suggests a departure from the ordinary, challenging conventional norms and expectations. This phrase aligns perfectly with Schiaparelli's design philosophy, which often included elements of surrealism and whimsy. For those familiar with Schiaparelli's work, "Shocking You" would conjure images of vibrant colors, unexpected designs, and a sense of daring that pushed boundaries in both fashion and fragrance.

Overall, "Si" by Schiaparelli, launched in 1957, stands as a testament to the designer's innovative spirit and her ability to infuse creativity into every aspect of her artistic endeavors. The name itself encapsulates musical elegance, personal symbolism, and a touch of avant-garde allure, making it a fitting representation of Schiaparelli's enduring influence on fashion and fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a heavy, piquant floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, gardenia, syringa, oleander, neroli
• Middle notes: clove, incense, tuberose, rose, carnation, jasmine, honeysuckle, orange blossom
• Base notes: civet, resins, opoponax, ambrette, vanilla, musk, ambergris, Singapore patchouli, myrrh, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss, civet, labdanum

 

Billboard, 1957:

"Juliette Greco's new one, Si, will enjoy all-out promotional tie-ins with "Si," Schiaparelli's new perfume, in all stores carrying the Schiaparelli line, in radio stations, and in record stores."

Réalités, 1958:

"Schiaparelli's new perfume "Si" got its name from the "Valse des Si." dedicated to her by composer Henri Sauguet. "Si" can mean both the musical note B and "it" — it also consists of the first and last letters of Schiaparelli). It's scent is heavy, flowery and distinguished and comes in a bottle like a gilded column wrapped in a leaf of sheet music which is inscribed with the melody of the waltz, of course. "

Fodor's France, 1958:

"Schiaparelli...Meanwhile, there's a new one, "Si," which the French describe as "violent." Better Si for yourself."

Paris Personal, 1963:

""Si by Schiaparelli. Exceptionally good for brunettes. This is a very piquant perfume, and terribly sexy. At first contact, it is too screaming and violent. However, it assimilates so well that in a few minutes you think it had been born in the skin."

Scent Story:

In the heart of Paris, under the soft glow of crystal chandeliers, the grand salon of Maison Schiaparelli buzzed with anticipation. Guests, adorned in the latest Italian-inspired couture, mingled amidst walls adorned with fresh white blooms of tuberose, gardenias, jasmine, and orange blossoms. The air was infused with the melodies of "Valse des Si" by Henri Sauguet and Juliette Gréco's soulful rendition of "Si," casting a nostalgic ambiance over the gathering.

At the center of it all stood Mme. Elsa Schiaparelli herself, radiant in a vibrant red gown that matched the wax seal on the gilded figural crystal bottles housing her latest creation, Si. With animated gestures, she shared her inspiration for the fragrance, designed to complement her daring cocktail dresses. The bottles, reminiscent of chianti flacons found in Italian bistros, were presented in boxes resembling gilded columns wrapped in delicate sheets of music, the waltz's melody inscribed upon them.

As I approach the display, my senses come alive. The fragrance of Si envelops me—a heavy, piquant floral oriental that opens with the bright zest of Calabrian bergamot and the lush sweetness of gardenia, syringa, oleander, and neroli. The mingling scents of tuberose, rose, carnation, jasmine, honeysuckle, and orange blossom form a rich, floral heart infused with hints of clove and incense, adding a spicy allure.

I lift the bottle, its weight comforting in my hand, the smooth crystal cool against my fingertips. The gilded design gleams under the salon lights, its red wax seal invitingly tactile. Mme. Schiaparelli explains the rarity of the raw materials—exotic treasures sourced from around the world, each contributing to Si's opulent composition.

The base notes unfold as I inhale deeply—civet, resins, opoponax, ambrette, vanilla, musk, ambergris, Singapore patchouli, myrrh, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, oakmoss, and labdanum weave a complex tapestry beneath the floral symphony. The fragrance lingers, evoking images of sun-drenched Italian vineyards and the sensuality of a vibrant soirée in full swing.

As I immerse myself in the sensory tapestry of Schiaparelli's creation, I understand why Si is not just a fragrance, but an experience—a homage to artistry, music, and the timeless allure of haute couture. In the luminous ambiance of her salon, Mme. Schiaparelli has crafted more than a perfume; she has woven a narrative of elegance, daring, and the essence of Italian flair.

Bottles:

The gilded figural bottle of Schiaparelli's fragrance "Si," designed to resemble a chianti flacon and sealed with red wax, evokes a rich tapestry of Italian cultural motifs and luxurious craftsmanship. Chianti, a renowned wine originating from the Tuscany region of Italy, is celebrated not only for its robust flavors but also for its distinctive flask-shaped bottles, traditionally covered with a straw basket known as a fiasco. These bottles have become iconic symbols of Italian winemaking, embodying a rustic elegance that resonates deeply with Italian cultural heritage.

For Schiaparelli, integrating the chianti flacon design into her fragrance presentation was a nod to Italy's storied traditions of artistry and refinement. The gilded finish of the bottle speaks to the opulence associated with Italian craftsmanship, reflecting the intricate detailing often found in Italian art and design. The red wax seal, a hallmark of authenticity and prestige, adds a touch of ceremonial flair, inviting admiration and curiosity.

In essence, the choice of the chianti flacon design for "Si" by Schiaparelli bridges the worlds of haute couture and Italian cultural heritage, infusing the fragrance with a sense of timeless elegance and sophistication. It serves not only as a vessel for the perfume but also as a symbol of craftsmanship, tradition, and the enduring allure of Italian style.

The presentation of Schiaparelli's fragrance "Si" extended beyond the gilded figural bottle itself to include a meticulously crafted box, designed to enhance the sensory and aesthetic experience for its recipients. This box, resembling a gilded column, exuded a sense of luxury and refinement, mirroring the elegance of the fragrance it housed.

Wrapped around this opulent box was a delicate leaf of sheet music, intricately inscribed with the melody of "Valse des Si," the waltz composed by Henri Sauguet dedicated to Schiaparelli. This artistic touch not only complemented the musical inspiration behind the fragrance but also imbued the presentation with a whimsical, artistic flair.

As guests admired the gilded column adorned with its musical motif, they were invited into a world where fragrance and music harmonized, where each detail—from the design of the bottle to the packaging—spoke of creativity, sophistication, and the timeless allure of Schiaparelli's vision. The combination of the gilded column box and the sheet music leaf encapsulated the essence of "Si" by Schiaparelli, celebrating both the fragrance's opulent composition and its profound cultural inspirations.

Baccarat Cube Stoppered Bottles:

In 1938, amidst the looming shadows of World War II, Elsa Schiaparelli introduced a clear glass bottle that would become an emblem of elegance and resilience during a tumultuous era. This bottle, initially designed to hold the pure parfum of her iconic fragrance "Shocking," transcended its origins to become a standard for several other Schiaparelli perfumes throughout the 1940s. It adorned the likes of "So Sweet," "Sleeping," "Salut," "Le Roy Soleil," and "Zut," embodying a sense of continuity and grace in the face of wartime hardships.

Crafted by Baccarat, a renowned French glassmaker, the bottle bore the model number #788 and reflected a pragmatic response to wartime restrictions, particularly those on importing glass bottles and supplies from Czechoslovakia and Italy. Its tall, upright rectangular shape exuded simplicity yet sophistication, embodying Schiaparelli's distinctive aesthetic. The faceted glass cube stopper added a touch of refinement, while the smallest sizes featured stoppers with attached daubers for easy application.

Each bottle bore the proud markings of its provenance: "Schiaparelli" and "French Bottle" molded into its base, signifying both its creator and its domestic craftsmanship. This domestic production underscored Schiaparelli's commitment to French artistry and her resilience in adapting to the challenges of wartime logistics.

As a symbol of continuity and ingenuity, this clear glass bottle not only preserved the essence of Schiaparelli's perfumes but also embodied the spirit of perseverance and creativity that defined her legacy. In an era marked by uncertainty, it stood as a testament to the enduring elegance and innovation of Schiaparelli's vision.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The exquisite chianti bottle used for Schiaparelli's "Si" parfum, though discontinued with the exact date unknown, remains a prized treasure sought after by collectors today. Characterized by its gilded figural design reminiscent of Italian chianti flacons, complete with a striking red wax seal, this bottle embodies a blend of artistic elegance and cultural homage. Its rarity and historical significance make it a coveted piece among fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike, reflecting Schiaparelli's enduring legacy in both fashion and perfumery. As a symbol of luxury and craftsmanship, the chianti bottle for "Si" continues to captivate with its unique blend of Italian-inspired design and timeless allure.