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Wednesday, June 15, 2022

Montana by Montana c1986

Montana by Montana first graced the European fragrance scene in the autumn of 1986. Crafted by the skilled hands of Roure Perfumers Jean Guichard in collaboration with Edouard Flechier, this olfactory masterpiece made its mark with an intricate blend of scents that captivated the senses.





Meet the Perfumers:


Jean Guichard, a renowned perfumer, has contributed to the creation of several iconic fragrances throughout his career. Some of his notable creations include: Amarige by Givenchy; L'Instant de Guerlain for Women; Ysatis by Givenchy; Boucheron by Boucheron; Tocade by Rochas; Dolce Vita by Dior; and Pleasures by Estée Lauder. Guichard's creations span a diverse range of styles and olfactory profiles, each leaving a lasting impression on the world of perfumery.


Edouard Flechier, another highly esteemed perfumer, has left his mark on the fragrance industry with his exceptional creations. Some of his notable perfumes include: Poison by Dior; L'Artisan Parfumeur's Timbuktu; Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle; Dior Fahrenheit Absolute; Frédéric Malle's Carnal Flower; Kelly Calèche by Hermès; and Fendi Palazzo. Flechier's perfumes showcase his mastery of composition and his ability to create fragrances that are both innovative and timeless.

A Fragrant Vision:


Montana's vision for his fragrance diverged sharply from the bold statements of perfumes like Giorgio and Poison. He aimed for an essence that was intimate and sensual, yet delicately balanced, eschewing overpowering notes in favor of a nuanced allure that whispered rather than shouted. His concept for the ideal sales approach was clear and thoughtful. He articulated, "I envisioned a stand where customers could opt to test the perfume at their own pace, rather than feeling ambushed by an intrusive spritz from someone else. Such an experience could easily sour one's day."

Vera Strubi, who served as the president of Montana Perfume at the time, revealed the meticulous process behind the creation of the fragrance. She recounted how Montana meticulously sifted through hundreds of perfume samples in search of the perfect one. His discerning taste led him to reject scents that were too overpowering, emphasizing, "I don't want something that people can smell from afar—it lacks elegance."

Montana's dedication extended to personally testing the fragrance on himself at night, shielding his olfactory experiment from outside influence. He steadfastly refused to solicit opinions from others, explaining, "When we conduct fittings for clothing, I welcome feedback from others. If it doesn't work, there's always room for adjustments. However, with fragrance, a misstep at the outset means there's no chance for redemption." This unwavering commitment to perfection underscored Montana's understanding of the unforgiving nature of scent creation.

Montana articulated his vision for the fragrance, emphasizing its alignment with his fashion ethos. He expressed a desire for the scent to mirror the essence of his designs—devoid of floral notes, akin to his preference for solid colors over prints. He sought an essence that was elemental, one that would seamlessly meld with each individual's skin chemistry, resulting in a truly personalized olfactory experience. Montana underscored the intimacy of the fragrance, noting that its full allure could only be appreciated up close.

Strubi offered insight into the fragrance's evolution on the skin, describing its initial cool and dynamic character that gradually transitions into a warm, sensuous allure with animalic undertones. Montana further elaborated on the fragrance's transformative nature, noting its initial dry and robust impression upon application, which then evolves on the skin, exuding a captivating sensuality akin to the primal allure of an animalistic fragrance.


The Launch:


The scent made its debut in the United States during the vibrant bloom of spring in 1987, initially introduced to the market under the purview of Germaine Monteil Cosmetics Corp. This launch coincided with a pivotal moment for the company, as Germaine Monteil, a subsidiary of the Beecham Group, was undergoing restructuring due to underperformance. Recognizing the opportunity, the Revlon Group seized the moment, acquiring the Germaine Monteil subsidiary from Beecham in the same year, thus ushering in a new chapter for the fragrance within the Revlon portfolio.

Fashion's rebellious trailblazer, Claude Montana, embarked on a transatlantic journey, touring the United States and select European locales to unveil his fragrance to eager audiences. Making grand appearances at prestigious department stores, he personally engaged with customers, adding a personal touch by autographing their coveted bottles.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leathery chypre fragrance for women. 
  • Top notes: orange blossom, marigold,  green note, cassis, pepper, peach, plum and cardamom
  • Middle notes: narcissus, sandalwood, ginger, rose, tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang and carnation
  • Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, castoreum, vetiver, ambreine, civet, musk, frankincense and olibanum

Describing the fragrance in detail, it falls into the category of leathery chypre scents tailored for women. Imagine a complex blend where the top notes burst forth with a mixture of black currant, zesty ginger, peppery accents, and vibrant orange. This lively introduction gives way to a heart composed of delicate floral essences such as jasmine, rose, and tuberose, interwoven with warm and woody sandalwood. These elements are complemented by a green hint from marigold and a touch of spice from cardamom, creating a harmonious bouquet of scents.

As the fragrance evolves, its base notes emerge, revealing a rich tapestry of aromas. Here, the leathery essence intertwines with the smoky allure of incense, while hints of amber and musk add depth and sensuality. This complex base is further enriched by the earthy nuances of patchouli and vetiver, along with the lingering warmth of oakmoss. Together, these elements create a captivating scent that unfolds gradually, leaving a lasting impression of sophistication and allure.


Bottle:


The fragrance comes housed in a stunning bottle meticulously crafted by renowned designer Serge Mansau, whose innovative design earned him the prestigious French Glass Industry award in 1988. The bottle, a visual symphony of spiral layers crafted from frosted glass, is an embodiment of Mansau's artistry and Montana's distinct design ethos.

Inspired by the graceful curves of a woman's body in motion, the bottle is a captivating blend of form and function. Its frosted glass, adorned with ridged spirals, creates a mesmerizing play of light and shadow. Wrapped in a deep, electrifying shade of blue and encased in transparent acrylic, the packaging reflects Montana's signature aesthetic—bold, modern, and effortlessly chic.

Available in various sizes to suit individual preferences, the fragrance is offered in a 1 oz Parfum, exuding luxury and exclusivity with its original retail price of $250. For those seeking a refreshing splash of scent, the 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Splash offers a generous supply of fragrance at an original retail price of $65. Meanwhile, the 1.7 oz Eau de Toilette Spray provides a convenient and versatile option for everyday wear, originally priced at $45. Each presentation offers a unique olfactory experience, housed within an iconic vessel that celebrates the artistry of both perfume and design.




Fate of the Fragrance:


In 1987, Edouard Fléchier reformulated the fragrance under Prestige Fragrances, a division of Revlon, renaming it Montana Parfum de Peau after its discontinuation. However, its official relaunch in the USA didn't occur until 1989. Claude Montana attributed the delay to the meticulous process of finding the right distribution company for his fragrance in America.

To boost the perfume's introduction to the American market, Stan Stephens, the Governor of Montana, played a pivotal role. He lent his support by traveling to New York City, where the fragrance was showcased in department stores. During this event, Stephens honored Claude Montana with a plaque granting him honorary citizenship and presented him with a cowboy hat made by a company from Wisdom, Montana, adding a touch of local flair to the perfume's debut.

The 1989 reformulated version of Montana Parfum de Peau:
  • Top notes: marigold, pepper, black currant, blackberry, ginger and orange blossom
  • Middle notes: patchouli, rose, narcissus and jasmine
  • Base notes: leather, incense, amber and musk

The reformulated version of Montana Parfum de Peau, released in 1989, is a symphony of olfactory notes that captivate the senses from the very first whiff to the lingering finish. At the top, a vibrant bouquet unfolds, featuring the invigorating zest of marigold and the spicy kick of pepper, complemented by the juicy sweetness of black currant and blackberry. A touch of ginger adds warmth, while the delicate floralcy of orange blossom adds a subtle allure.

As the fragrance evolves, it transitions into a heart of unparalleled depth and complexity. Here, the earthy richness of patchouli intertwines with the romantic essence of rose, creating a harmonious blend that is both timeless and alluring. Narcissus and jasmine lend their intoxicating floral notes, adding a touch of opulence and sophistication.

Finally, the fragrance settles into a sumptuous base that lingers on the skin like a luxurious caress. Leather takes center stage, evoking images of supple hides and rugged elegance, while incense adds a mystical and exotic allure. Amber infuses the composition with warmth and sensuality, while musk lends a soft and inviting finish, enveloping the wearer in an irresistible aura of allure and sophistication.

Douceur de Peau:


In 1989, alongside the relaunch of Montana Parfum de Peau, another milestone was marked with the introduction of the Douceur de Peau line. This collection of luxurious bath and body products was infused with the captivating scent of Parfum de Peau, offering a comprehensive sensory experience that enveloped the wearer in a veil of indulgence.

The Douceur de Peau line boasted an array of meticulously crafted products designed to pamper and nourish the skin, all while leaving behind the intoxicating fragrance of Parfum de Peau. Among the offerings were a decadent moisturizing body cream, a luxuriously foaming aerosol foam, and a rejuvenating shower gel, each formulated to cleanse, hydrate, and invigorate the skin.

For those seeking a touch of luxury in their daily routine, the collection also included a sumptuous bath soap and a moisture-plus body emulsion, providing long-lasting hydration and a lingering hint of fragrance. Completing the lineup were indulgent options such as a compact body powder, perfect for adding a subtle shimmer and a whisper of scent, and a natural deodorant spray or roll-on, offering both protection and fragrance throughout the day.

Together, the Douceur de Peau line embodied the essence of luxury and sophistication, offering a sensorial journey that heightened the experience of wearing Parfum de Peau and enveloping the wearer in its irresistible allure from head to toe.










Montana Parfum d'Elle:


 In 1990, amidst the fragrance landscape, a new chapter unfolded for the Montana perfume line with the unveiling of Montana Parfum d'Elle, a sophisticated flanker scent that echoed the essence of its predecessor, Montana Parfum de Peau, yet imbued with a delicate summery aura that captivated the senses with its ethereal charm.

Available in both Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum concentrations, this olfactory masterpiece represented a lighter rendition of the iconic Parfum de Peau, designed to evoke sensations of warmth, radiance, and sheer pleasure, enveloping the wearer in an invisible tapestry of allure that transcended boundaries and transported one to distant realms.

The fragrance is housed in a modified version of the iconic frosted Parfum de Peau bottle, retaining its elegant spiral design crafted from frosted glass. However, in a subtle nod to its distinct identity, the bottle for Montana Parfum d'Elle is adorned with a sunny yellow hue, infusing it with a vibrant energy that sets it apart from its predecessor. Complementing this vibrant packaging is a yellow box that encases the fragrance, adding a touch of sophistication and charm to the overall presentation. Together, these elements form a cohesive visual identity that reflects the essence of Montana Parfum d'Elle—a fragrance that exudes warmth, radiance, and sheer pleasure.

Described as a hymn to pleasure and space, Parfum d'Elle exuded an aura of elsewhere, captivating the imagination with its intricate blend of spicy, fruity, and exotic floral aromes that danced upon the senses, blossoming over wooded, dense, honeyed, and ambered undertones that added depth and complexity to the fragrance experience.

A notable addition to the composition of Parfum d'Elle was the inclusion of a "marine" or "ozone" scent, achieved through the use of synthetic substances such as Helional, Hedione, and Mousse de Mer, which conjured memories of the refreshing odors of the sea and the succulent freshness of cucumbers or melons, infusing the fragrance with a revitalizing burst of aquatic vitality that lent it a unique and irresistible allure.
 
  • Top notes: melon, ginger, lime, bergamot, lemon and mandarin orange
  • Middle notes: ylang-ylang, hyacinth, tuberose, Brazilian rosewood and lily-of-the-Valley
  • Base notes: tobacco, tonka bean, oakmoss, amber, vanilla and cedar

At the forefront of this exquisite fragrance are the vibrant top notes, a symphony of refreshing citrus and juicy fruits. Imagine the crispness of bergamot and lemon, mingling with the zesty allure of lime and mandarin orange, all underscored by the subtle sweetness of melon and the warming spice of ginger.

As the scent evolves, it transitions into a lush floral heart, where the intoxicating aroma of ylang-ylang blends seamlessly with the delicate sweetness of tuberose. The heady scent of hyacinth and the woody richness of Brazilian rosewood add depth and complexity, while the delicate floralcy of lily-of-the-valley lends an air of softness and femininity.

Finally, the fragrance settles into a warm and inviting base, where the earthy nuances of tobacco and oakmoss mingle with the creamy sweetness of tonka bean and vanilla. Amber adds a touch of warmth and sensuality, while cedarwood provides a grounding element, creating a scent that is both sophisticated and alluring, leaving a lasting impression that lingers on the skin like a cherished memory.




Parfum d'Elle II:


In 2003, a new chapter unfolded for Parfum d'Elle with the introduction of Parfum d'Elle II, a reinterpretation of the beloved fragrance as a fruity floral chypre scent tailored for women.

"The exuberance of red fruit and peach burst forth, liberating from an imaginary shell a potent fragrance with a heart as generous as it is captivating." At its core lies a harmonious blend of magnolia, iris, and geranium leaves, intertwining to create a bouquet that exudes refinement and elegance. This rich floral heart is further enhanced by the purity of wood, lending depth and complexity to the composition, while the discreet warmth of amber adds a touch of sensuality. Finally, the enigmatic allure of musk infuses the fragrance with a sense of mystery and intrigue.

True to its heritage, Parfum d'Elle II is presented in the same frosted bottle that fans of the original have come to love, maintaining its timeless elegance and sophistication. However, the packaging takes on a new hue, with the fragrance encased in a resplendent golden box that adds a touch of opulence and allure, setting the stage for a truly unforgettable olfactory experience.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, cassia, plum, peach, geranium, red berries and pepper
  • Middle notes: iris, magnolia, ylang-ylang, tuberose, ginger, rose, carnation and jasmine
  • Base notes: sandalwood, cedar, musk, tonka bean, musk, coconut, vetiver, amber and patchouli.


At the onset, this fragrance unfolds with a burst of freshness and vibrancy, courtesy of its captivating top notes. Imagine the sparkle of aldehydes and the verdant essence of green notes, intertwining with the spicy warmth of cassia and pepper. Juicy plum and peach lend a fruity sweetness, complemented by the floralcy of geranium and the tantalizing allure of red berries.

As the scent journey continues, it transitions into a sumptuous floral heart, where delicate blooms weave their enchanting spell. Picture the ethereal beauty of iris and magnolia, mingling with the creamy richness of ylang-ylang and tuberose. The subtle spiciness of ginger adds depth and complexity, while the timeless elegance of rose, carnation, and jasmine infuse the composition with their intoxicating aroma.

Finally, the fragrance settles into a warm and inviting base, where the woody notes of sandalwood and cedar provide a solid foundation. Musk adds a touch of sensuality, while the sweetness of tonka bean and coconut adds depth and warmth. Vetiver and patchouli lend an earthy richness, while amber envelops the scent in a soft, ambered embrace. Together, these base notes create a lasting impression that lingers on the skin, leaving a trail of allure and sophistication.



Parfum d'Elle II was presented in an array of luxurious options to suit every preference and occasion:

  • 40 ml Eau de Parfum: Perfect for those who prefer a more concentrated and long-lasting scent, this size offered a generous supply of the captivating fragrance, ensuring that its allure lingered throughout the day.
  • 40 ml Eau de Toilette: A lighter rendition of the scent, ideal for everyday wear or those who prefer a more subtle fragrance experience. Despite its lighter formulation, it still retained the essence of Parfum d'Elle II, captivating the senses with its enchanting bouquet.
  • 75 ml Eau de Toilette: Offering a slightly larger size, this option provided an ample supply of the fragrance, ensuring that one could indulge in the irresistible allure of Parfum d'Elle II whenever desired.
  • 200 ml Body Lotion: Enriched with the fragrance of Parfum d'Elle II, this luxurious body lotion provided a nourishing and hydrating experience for the skin, leaving it soft, smooth, and delicately scented.
  • 100 ml Deodorant: Infused with the captivating scent of Parfum d'Elle II, this deodorant offered long-lasting protection against odor and perspiration, while enveloping the wearer in its alluring aroma.
  • 200 ml Shower Gel: Transforming the daily shower routine into a sensory experience, this shower gel lathered luxuriously, cleansing the skin while enveloping it in the captivating fragrance of Parfum d'Elle II, leaving a lingering scent that invigorated the senses.

While exact production timelines can vary based on factors like demand and market trends, it's plausible that Parfum d'Elle II was still being produced in 2011. Fragrance lines often enjoy long lifespans, especially if they maintain popularity and appeal among consumers. Additionally, successful fragrances may undergo periodic updates or re-releases to keep them relevant and fresh in the market. Therefore, it's reasonable to assume that Parfum d'Elle II could have remained in production in 2011, continuing to captivate perfume enthusiasts with its enchanting blend of notes and enduring allure.

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