Ce Soir ou Jamais by Parfums Offenthal c1927

In 1925, Lucienne Offenthal brought a touch of refined glamour to Paris with the establishment of Parfums Offenthal. Located at the prestigious 24 rue de la Paix, the brand was initially rooted in her expertise as a purse maker, but quickly expanded to encompass a range of luxury goods, including perfumes and exquisite giftware. By the late 1920s, Offenthal's offerings were displayed at her elegant boutique, “Pompadour,” situated at 78 Champs-Élysées within the iconic Arcades. This glamorous setting attracted Parisian high society and international visitors alike, all drawn to the shop’s aura of sophistication and exclusivity.

Among Offenthal’s creations, the most celebrated was Ce Soir ou Jamais (“Tonight or Never”), a fragrance launched around 1927. This perfume became a signature of the brand, known for its air of timeless allure and Parisian romance. With its evocative name hinting at fleeting opportunities and impassioned moments, Ce Soir ou Jamais captured the imagination of its wearers. It was particularly adored by the Hollywood actress Sylvia Sidney, whose elegance and artistry mirrored the perfume's essence.

Ce Soir ou Jamais likely carried a rich, seductive blend of florals and perhaps warm, sensual base notes in keeping with the trends of the late 1920s, offering a balance of sophistication and intimacy. Through its captivating composition, the fragrance became a hallmark of Offenthal’s legacy, standing as a testament to the artistry and allure that defined the brand.

Lucienne Offenthal’s contribution to Parisian luxury was not merely in her products but in the lifestyle they represented—a harmonious blend of fine craftsmanship, fashionable innovation, and timeless elegance. Her boutique and creations remain a fascinating chapter in the history of French perfumery.

In 1928, The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review hailed a remarkable innovation in the perfume industry, spotlighting Lucienne Offenthal’s bold creation, Ce Soir ou Jamais ("Tonight or Never"). At her boutique in the Arcades of the Champs-Élysées, Offenthal captivated passersby with an unconventional display: dark green quarter-liter bottles resembling mineral water bottles, each filled with her daringly named fragrance. The eccentricity of the presentation matched the intrigue of the name, drawing attention and sparking conversation. The review wryly remarked on the endless creativity behind perfume names, yet the whimsical title of Ce Soir ou Jamais belied its sophisticated allure.

The fragrance's success extended across the Atlantic, where it was distributed by David & Blum, prominent glove importers in New York. Interestingly, the bottles sold in the United States bore the "Pompadour" branding rather than Offenthal’s name, reflecting a tailored marketing strategy to align with their exclusive Pompadour Toiletries line. The transition of Ce Soir ou Jamais to the American market marked a significant step in popularizing French perfumes abroad, particularly during an era when Parisian chic was the ultimate aspiration for American consumers.

A 1929 issue of The Glovers Review provided further insight into the distribution network. Andre David, Norman Blum, and Joseph Isaacs, of David & Blum, joined forces with Jacques Frankel, formerly of Franklin Simon & Company, to form Pompadour Toiletries. Their sole mission was to introduce Ce Soir ou Jamais to the American market. This partnership highlights the collaborative efforts required to bring such a distinctive French fragrance to discerning American buyers.

The innovative packaging, evocative name, and international appeal of Ce Soir ou Jamais encapsulated the daring spirit of Offenthal’s brand. It remains a symbol of her ingenuity, standing out as a bold chapter in the history of perfume marketing during the late 1920s.

A Cinematic Tie-Up: Ce Soir ou Jamais and Tonight or Never

In an innovative marketing strategy that bridged the worlds of fragrance and cinema, Pompadour Toiletries, Inc., the American importer of Ce Soir ou Jamais ("Tonight or Never"), forged a unique partnership with the producers of the 1931 Gloria Swanson film Tonight or Never. This collaboration, described in The American Perfumer and Essential Oil Review, represented a visionary approach to advertising, aligning the allure of a luxury perfume with the glamour of Hollywood.

The promotional campaign was both bold and symbiotic. Elaborate displays of Ce Soir ou Jamais were showcased in theaters featuring the film, while retail stores carried displays that prominently highlighted the motion picture. Theater programs and descriptive folders for the film included references to the perfume, creating a seamless association between the story’s romantic themes and the seductive appeal of the fragrance. This partnership was not limited to New York; it was designed to extend nationwide as the film toured, ensuring that both the perfume and the film would remain intertwined in the public consciousness.

Thematically, the pairing was a perfect match. In Tonight or Never, Gloria Swanson portrayed a young opera singer whose career stagnates due to a lack of emotional passion. Her fortunes change when she discovers romance with a dashing admirer, played by Melvyn Douglas, unlocking a newfound intensity in her performances. This narrative of transformation through love and passion resonated beautifully with the essence of Ce Soir ou Jamais, a fragrance whose name evokes a sense of urgency, allure, and the fleeting nature of romance.

The collaboration exemplified how theatrical enterprises and luxury goods could mutually benefit from shared storytelling and branding. For Pompadour Toiletries, the tie-up offered unprecedented visibility, leveraging Swanson's star power and the film's romantic appeal to captivate consumers. At the same time, the film’s association with an elegant French perfume enriched its atmosphere of sophistication and desire.

Ultimately, the campaign stands as a testament to the innovative spirit of 1930s marketing, blending the artistry of perfume with the drama of cinema to create an unforgettable cultural moment.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Ce Soir ou Jamais is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It was described as "the golden fragrance of white locust blossoms" and "spicy, lasting" in advertisements.

• Top notes: white locust blossom, cassie, neroli. verbena
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, tuberose, ylang ylang, heliotrope, cinnamon
• Base notes: vanilla, civet, patchouli, benzoin, ambergris, vetiver, sandalwood, cedar

Scent Profile:

Ce Soir ou Jamais is a fragrance that envelopes you in an opulent bouquet, rich with floral and spicy nuances, transporting you to a golden twilight filled with intrigue and desire. As the scent unfurls, each ingredient offers its unique charm, weaving a tapestry of captivating depth and complexity.

The first inhale greets you with the luminous sweetness of white locust blossoms, evoking the delicate, honeyed aroma of spring trees in bloom. Cassie introduces a velvety, powdery richness, underscored by a faintly green and spicy quality. Neroli brings a burst of crisp citrus, its orange blossom essence shimmering like sunlight filtering through petals. The verdant touch of verbena adds a bright, lemony sharpness, invigorating yet soft, as if brushing against fresh leaves kissed by morning dew.

As the heart emerges, jasmine reigns supreme with its intoxicating, sweet floral opulence. It mingles seamlessly with the creamy decadence of tuberose, an intensely seductive bloom that feels velvety and heady. Rose lends its timeless elegance, deep and romantic, while ylang-ylang adds a buttery, slightly banana-like tropical warmth. Heliotrope infuses a soft, almond-like powderiness, its soothing presence juxtaposed with the spicy, fiery warmth of cinnamon, which cuts through the florals with its sultry heat.

The base anchors the fragrance in a rich, complex foundation. Vanilla wraps the composition in its warm, creamy sweetness, while civet adds an animalic, musky undertone that feels daringly sensual. Patchouli introduces an earthy depth, its resinous warmth mingling with the balsamic richness of benzoin. Ambergris contributes a soft, oceanic salinity, evoking whispers of mystery. Vetiver and sandalwood create a smooth, woody embrace, their grassy and creamy tones grounding the perfume, while cedar’s dry, aromatic edge adds a final note of refinement.

Ce Soir ou Jamais is a symphony of contrasts—light and dark, floral and spicy, soft and bold. Its layers unfold like the chapters of an enchanting story, capturing the allure of fleeting moments and the promise of lasting memories. It lingers on the skin, weaving its golden, intoxicating spell long into the night.

 

Bottles:

The bottles designed for Ce Soir ou Jamais were as much a part of its allure as the fragrance itself, capturing the romantic and opulent spirit of 18th-century France and the iconic Marquise de Pompadour. These presentations reinforced the perfume's narrative of intrigue, luxury, and irresistible charm.

The deluxe version was a statement of elegance and sophistication, its bottle resembling a miniature champagne bottle—perhaps an allusion to celebration and indulgence. Crafted from dark green glass, it exuded a rich, jewel-like quality. The bottle’s most notable features were its circular molded indentations: one at the center held an embossed gold paper label bearing the perfume's name, "Ce Soir ou Jamais," while another toward the base displayed the label "Offenthal Paris." These golden accents added a touch of regal refinement to the otherwise understated silhouette. Topped with a frosted, colorless glass stopper, the bottle stood 3.5 inches tall and likely held one ounce of the precious parfum. Its diminutive size and meticulous details made it an object of desire, a treasure to be cherished.

This bottle was presented in a packaging as enchanting as the perfume itself—a hinged case designed to resemble a domed jewel casket. The exterior was crafted from faux leather printed paper, embossed with intricate motifs evoking the grandeur of Louis XV’s court. The domed lid bore an ornate crest with a flourishing "P" monogram, a reference to the Marquise de Pompadour’s elegance and influence. The front featured a rococo-style keyhole design, while the sides and top were adorned with repeating patterns of crowns, monograms, and raised nubs that imitated brass studs. Inside, the satin lining of the lid was printed with the name "Pompadour," tying the bottle back to Lucienne Offenthal's Parisian boutique.

The less expensive version of the perfume bottle, while simpler, retained an air of charm and refinement. Likely aimed at making the fragrance more accessible to a broader audience, this version would have preserved the essence of the brand’s luxurious aesthetic without the opulence of the deluxe presentation.

Newspaper advertisements from the late 1920s celebrated the perfume’s ties to the Marquise de Pompadour and the seductive elegance of her time. One ad romanticized the legend that this very fragrance was the key to Louis XV winning her affections, presented in a treasure chest reminiscent of the extravagant trappings of the French court. Another described the perfume as "ravishing," conjuring imagery of intrigue behind heavy tapestries and romantic evenings steeped in secrecy.

In both its scent and its presentation, Ce Soir ou Jamais was a testament to the power of storytelling in perfumery, blending history, luxury, and desire into an irresistible package. Whether nestled in its ornate jewel casket or simply enjoyed for its fragrance, it was designed to evoke a sense of timeless romance and allure.

 

 

 

Another deluxe example of Ce Soir ou Jamais embodies sophistication and artistry in the form of a tall, narrow Baccarat crystal flacon. This exceptional piece radiates elegance, showcasing the renowned craftsmanship of Baccarat. The crystal's colorless clarity allows the golden hue of the perfume to gleam through, creating a visual interplay of light and richness that adds to the bottle's allure.

The reverse of the flacon is delicately wheel-engraved, a hallmark of precision and luxury. The engraving features an ornate monogram encircled by a graceful floral wreath, emphasizing the romantic and regal themes associated with the fragrance. The floral motif not only complements the bottle's slender and refined shape but also ties into the narrative of French opulence and the Marquise de Pompadour, around whom much of the brand's mythology revolves.

This flacon is said to be a customized edition, making it a rarity among collectors. Its exclusivity and delicate craftsmanship underscore its status as a pinnacle of luxury. Rarely seen today, it serves as a testament to the meticulous artistry and attention to detail that defined the era’s haute perfumery. Such a piece was undoubtedly intended for discerning clients who sought not only a remarkable fragrance but also a work of art to display and cherish.

The less expensive versions of the Ce Soir ou Jamais bottles maintained a refined simplicity that still echoed the elegance and sophistication of the perfume’s more lavish counterpart. Crafted from square, colorless glass, these bottles exuded an understated charm. Their clean, geometric lines provided a modern contrast to the ornate, rococo-inspired presentation of the deluxe version. Each bottle was capped with a frosted glass stopper, molded in a delicate, stylized floral pattern that added a touch of femininity and artistry to the otherwise minimalistic design.

The bottles were available in two sizes, likely 1/4 ounce and 1/2 ounce, making them more accessible while still preserving the luxurious nature of the perfume. One example, standing 2.5 inches tall, exemplifies their compact and portable nature—ideal for personal indulgence or gifting.

The packaging for these bottles reflected thoughtful attention to detail, mimicking the design motifs of the deluxe trunk box while simplifying the materials. Rectangular in shape, the boxes were covered in printed paper that replicated the patterns seen on the faux leather of the hinged casket. This included the repeating "P" monogram, crowns, and diamond- or circular-shaped nubs, evoking the grandeur of the French court without the expense of the jewel-casket design. These decorative touches maintained a cohesive aesthetic, ensuring the less expensive versions remained desirable and visually tied to the brand's story of opulence and romance.

Despite their simplicity, these bottles conveyed a sense of timeless elegance, offering a more affordable way to experience the luxurious fragrance while retaining the brand’s core identity. In this way, the less expensive versions served as a bridge, bringing the dream of Ce Soir ou Jamais into the hands of a wider audience without sacrificing the enchantment of its presentation.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1927, Ce Soir ou Jamais captured the imagination of its era, blending romance, sophistication, and a touch of intrigue into its creation. Its golden-hued fragrance, evocative marketing, and luxurious packaging positioned it as a symbol of timeless elegance, resonating with those who cherished refinement and artistry in perfumery. The scent became a favored indulgence, its mystique further enhanced by the association with the legendary Marquise de Pompadour and the narrative of seduction surrounding its inspiration.

Despite its success, Ce Soir ou Jamais seems to have been quietly discontinued, with its exact end shrouded in uncertainty. Available in the late 1920s and early 1930s, its disappearance from the market likely occurred in the mid to late 1930s. The reasons for its discontinuation remain speculative—possibly tied to economic shifts during the Great Depression, changing consumer preferences, or challenges faced by Pompadour Toiletries, the company distributing the perfume in the United States.

The legacy of Ce Soir ou Jamais persists through the rare and exquisite bottles and the evocative advertisements that still captivate collectors and historians today. Though its fragrance has faded into history, its story endures as a reflection of an era when perfume was not merely a scent but an emblem of artistry, luxury, and romance.