Cleopatra's Boudoir: Audace by Rochas c1936

In 1936, the year Audace by Rochas was launched, Europe was amidst a period of social and artistic upheaval. The interwar period, marked by both economic recovery and lingering post-war tensions, saw a flourishing of avant-garde movements in art, fashion, and culture. Marcel Rochas, a prominent couturier known for his innovative designs that embraced both classic elegance and modernity, captured the spirit of this era with Audace, his new perfume creation.

Marcel Rochas deliberately chose the name "Audace" for his perfume. In French, "audace," pronounced "oh-doss," translates to "audacity" or "boldness" in English. The name suggests a perfume that embodies daring and courage, qualities highly valued in the context of the 1930s when women were increasingly asserting their independence and breaking societal norms.

For Rochas, "Audace" was not just a name but a statement. He believed that a woman's scent should precede her, making a lasting impression long before she was seen. This philosophy reflected his belief in the power of fragrance to convey confidence and allure, qualities he sought to celebrate through his creations.

To those who related to a perfume named "Audace," it would evoke images of assertive femininity and evoke feelings of empowerment. Women of the time, particularly those embracing the changing roles and freedoms offered in the modern era, would have been drawn to a scent that promised to enhance their presence and leave a memorable impression.

The word "Audace" itself conjures images of bold gestures, daring fashion choices, and the courage to challenge conventions. It suggests a fragrance that is not merely pleasant but transformative—a scent that exudes charisma and captures attention effortlessly.

In summary, Audace by Rochas, launched in 1936, was more than just a perfume—it was a testament to Marcel Rochas' vision of confident femininity and the spirit of audacity that defined an era of change and innovation.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woodsy, leafy, chypre fragrance for women.

Top notes: lemon, neroli, bergamot, violet
Middle notes: oakmoss, geranium, labdanum, iris, jasmine, carnation and may rose
Base notes: vetiver, civet, galbanum, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli, musk, ambergris, juniper and pine

Scent Story:

In 1936, Marcel Rochas embarked on a journey across the United States to introduce his latest olfactory creation, "Audace," at the esteemed Neiman Marcus in New York. The department store was transformed into a botanical wonderland, adorned with fresh carnations, geraniums, jasmines, and roses, their fragrances mingling in the air with anticipation.

Central to the display were the exquisite white opaline glass perfume bottles that housed Audace. These bottles, directly inspired by Rochas' chic salon at 12 Avenue Matignon in Paris, exuded elegance and sophistication. Each bottle was a masterpiece of craftsmanship, featuring a smoothly shaped rectangle with softly rounded shoulders, adorned with a matching opaline glass stopper embossed with the initials MR. A delicate blue paper label wrapped around the middle, adding a touch of refinement to the design.

Models, clad in the newest Rochas couture, gracefully paraded down a runway set up in the perfumery department, embodying the modern elegance that Audace was designed to complement. The atmosphere buzzed with excitement as guests admired the latest fashion alongside the allure of Rochas' newest fragrance.

Marcel Rochas himself, a visionary in the world of fashion and perfumery, addressed his guests with charm and enthusiasm. He described Audace as a fragrance crafted for the modern woman's most enchanting moments, designed to be worn with the most contemporary of evening gowns. His words resonated with a promise of sophistication and allure, urging women to apply a few drops to evoke their most captivating selves.

As guests immersed themselves in the sensory experience, the scene unfolded with layers of perception. Eyes were drawn to the runway, where models showcased Rochas' elegant designs, perfectly complemented by the ambiance of fresh blooms. The air carried the delicate notes of Audace's composition: lemon, neroli, bergamot, and violet in the top notes, intertwining with the earthy richness of oakmoss, geranium, labdanum, iris, jasmine, carnation, and May rose in the heart. Each ingredient contributed to the perfume's intricate balance, evoking a sense of woodland serenity and floral elegance.

Tasting the experience meant savoring the subtle nuances of a specially crafted menu, where floral-infused delicacies enhanced the olfactory journey. The murmurs of admiration and conversation filled the air, mingling with the soft strains of music playing in the background, adding to the ambiance of sophistication and refinement.

Touches were indulged in as guests explored the luxurious textures of Rochas' fabrics and the exquisite packaging of Audace. Marcel Rochas took pride in detailing the rarity and expense of sourcing these raw materials from around the globe, emphasizing the perfume's exclusivity and uncompromising quality.

In this meticulously curated event at Neiman Marcus, Marcel Rochas succeeded in not only launching a fragrance but in creating an immersive experience that engaged all the senses. Audace stood as a testament to Rochas' dedication to elegance, craftsmanship, and the artistry of perfumery, leaving a lasting impression on those who witnessed its debut in the heart of New York's fashion elite.

Bottles:

In 1936, Rochas ventured into the world of perfumery, introducing a line of fragrances that epitomized the elegance and sophistication associated with his couture. Initially available exclusively at Marcel Rochas' fashion shows, these perfumes—Air Jeune, Audace, and Avenue Matignon—quickly became sought-after treasures among the fashionable elite of Paris. The inspiration for their original packaging came directly from Rochas' renowned boutique at 12 Avenue Matignon, a salon characterized by its striking blue and white décor, where Rochas conducted a thriving business in haute couture.

The perfume bottles themselves were crafted from white opaline glass, exuding a chic and minimalist aesthetic that mirrored the sophistication of Rochas' fashion designs. Available in both square and rectangular shapes, each bottle was adorned with a matching opaline glass stopper embossed with the initials "MR," seamlessly integrating the designer's personal touch into every detail. Wrapped around the middle of these exquisite flacons was a delicate blue paper label, adding a touch of color and refinement to the overall presentation.

These opulent flacons were offered in a variety of sizes, ranging from small to large, catering to different preferences and occasions. One notable variant even featured an atomizer, allowing for a luxurious application of the fragrance. Despite their popularity and initial success, the onset of the Second World War brought an abrupt halt to the production and sale of these perfumes. As a result, surviving examples of Air Jeune, Audace, and Avenue Matignon in their original packaging have become exceedingly rare and highly prized by collectors, encapsulating a fleeting moment of glamour and sophistication from a bygone era in Parisian fashion and fragrance history.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 39 - Page 461, 1936:

"MARCEL ROCHAS The perfumes and toiletries of Marcel Rochas have come to America and are distributed by Pierre Amouroux, Inc. The bottles and packages are extremely smart in white with a wide blue band, and white and red lettering."

In 1936, the pricing of perfumes like Air Jeune, Audace, and Avenue Matignon by Rochas reflected their status as luxury goods in an era marked by economic hardship—the Great Depression. With prices ranging from $4.50 to $32.00, these fragrances commanded a premium that placed them among the most expensive perfumes available at the time. Adjusting for inflation using today's standards, these prices translate to approximately $102.45 to $728.52 in 2024, highlighting their exorbitant cost relative to the average income during the Depression era.

The decision to price these perfumes at such a high premium was a testament to their exclusivity and the prestige associated with the Rochas brand. Marcel Rochas positioned his fragrances not merely as scents, but as symbols of luxury and sophistication, aimed at an affluent clientele who could afford to indulge in the finer things despite the economic challenges of the time.

For those fortunate enough to purchase these perfumes during the 1930s, it represented a statement of status and taste, a luxury that provided a fleeting escape from the economic realities of the Great Depression. The pricing also underscored Rochas' commitment to craftsmanship and quality, ensuring that each bottle of perfume not only contained a distinctive scent but also embodied the essence of Parisian elegance and refinement.

Today, these perfumes from the 1930s stand as artifacts of a bygone era, offering a glimpse into the world of luxury and glamour that Marcel Rochas sought to capture amidst the backdrop of economic uncertainty and social change.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of Marcel Rochas' perfumes during the Second World War can be attributed to a combination of factors influenced by the global conflict. As the war escalated, various restrictions and challenges emerged that impacted the perfume industry and luxury goods sector as a whole.

One significant factor was the imposition of strict import and export regulations by wartime governments. Countries involved in the conflict implemented measures to conserve resources and prioritize essential supplies for the war effort. These restrictions often included limitations on the importation of non-essential goods, such as luxury perfumes, to focus resources on military needs and basic necessities.

Additionally, the availability of raw materials essential for perfume production became increasingly scarce during the war. Many ingredients traditionally sourced from countries now involved in the conflict were either unavailable or severely limited in supply. This scarcity disrupted the manufacturing processes necessary for producing high-quality perfumes like those created by Marcel Rochas.

The Nazi occupation of France, where Rochas' perfume operations were based, further exacerbated these challenges. Occupying forces imposed strict controls over industries and resources, diverting production towards war-related activities and restricting the operations of non-essential businesses. This likely led to the cessation of production and distribution of Rochas' perfumes as the focus shifted away from luxury goods towards wartime necessities.

In conclusion, the discontinuation of Marcel Rochas' perfumes during the Second World War was primarily driven by a combination of restrictions on imports and exports, dwindling supplies of essential ingredients, and the disruptive effects of Nazi occupation on industry and commerce in France. These factors collectively contributed to the temporary withdrawal of Rochas' fragrances from the market until the end of the war allowed for a potential revival of production and distribution.

1971 Reformulation & Relaunch:

The original 1936 version of Audace by Rochas met an untimely end with the outbreak of the Second World War, leading to its discontinuation and subsequent rarity in today's market. However, the spirit of Audace endured, and in 1971, Rochas revived the name for a reformulated version of the perfume. This reintroduction marked a significant moment for Rochas, as it had been 11 years since the brand had launched a new fragrance.

The relaunch of Audace in 1971 was accompanied by a vigorous advertising campaign, particularly targeting the American market where it was officially introduced by 1972. The perfume was positioned to capture the essence of modernity and sophistication, appealing to a new generation of consumers while also honoring the legacy of its predecessor.

To celebrate this revival, Rochas orchestrated a striking promotional effort that extended beyond conventional advertising. The headquarters at 33 rue François Ier in Paris received a temporary transformation by sculptor Pierre Sabatier (1935-2003). Sabatier crafted an off-white polyvinyl structure that adorned the facade, inspired by Charles Baudelaire's poetic work "Harmonie du soir" (Evening Harmony). This artistic installation not only symbolized the essence of fragrances but also served as a visual testament to the poetic and transformative power of Audace.

The reintroduction of Audace in 1971 and its subsequent launch in the United States in 1972 marked a new chapter for Rochas, blending tradition with innovation in a fragrance that continues to resonate with connoisseurs of fine perfumery worldwide.

1971 Launch:

To celebrate the launch of the reformulated Audace perfume in 1971, Rochas embarked on a multifaceted promotional campaign that blended fashion, gastronomy, and hairstyling into an extravagant affair. Central to this campaign was the creation of "The Audace Dress" by designer Harry Algo, a longtime associate of Rochas who had apprenticed under Marcel Rochas himself as a young boy. Algo, now running his own couture house in Paris by the 1970s, designed a striking garment that embodied the essence of Audace. Made from luxurious chocolate brown velvet, the backless dress featured a deep-ruffled décolletage, exuding a richly feminine allure reminiscent of Spain, where Audace drew its inspiration.

The launch event for Audace was equally lavish. Held at the renowned Cote Basque in New York, a gourmet luncheon was orchestrated where every dish incorporated floral essences such as chrysanthemums, rose petals, and orchids. This sensory experience was carefully curated to harmonize with the fragrance's floral and sophisticated character, offering guests a taste of the perfume's essence through culinary artistry.

The anticipation and acclaim surrounding Audace extended beyond the fashion and culinary worlds. Alexandre, a celebrated Parisian hairstylist renowned for his acute olfactory senses akin to those of a perfumer, predicted that Audace would ascend to the highest echelon of perfumery. Recognizing his expertise, Parfums Rochas invited Alexandre to create a hairstyle inspired by Audace. Presenting seven distinct designs, Alexandre's favorite—a versatile style suitable for both natural and enhanced hair—was ultimately chosen to complement the perfume's allure and elegance.

Through these meticulous efforts blending fashion, cuisine, and hairstyling, Rochas ensured that the reintroduction of Audace in 1971 not only revitalized the fragrance but also cemented its place as a symbol of timeless sophistication and allure in the world of perfumery.