Mai by Shiseido c1968

Mai by Shiseido, launched in 1968, carries a name steeped in both cultural significance and poetic simplicity. The word "Mai" (舞) is Japanese, pronounced "mah-ee" in layman’s terms. In its native language, it refers to a traditional form of Japanese dance, often performed with grace and precision, evoking images of movement that is both fluid and controlled. This concept of "Mai" conjures a feeling of elegance, tranquility, and timeless beauty. The dance itself is a ceremonial performance, often associated with rituals and celebrations, where each step is measured and intentional. By choosing the name "Mai" for their fragrance, Shiseido may have sought to encapsulate these qualities in olfactory form, offering women a scent that mirrored the refinement, poise, and femininity of this ancient art form.

The name also evokes emotional imagery—one of quiet sophistication and deep cultural roots. Women of the late 1960s, a time of evolving societal norms and increasing individualism, would have likely been drawn to the notion of "Mai" as it bridged the gap between traditional elegance and modern femininity. The subtlety and grace associated with the word would have resonated with women seeking a perfume that captured not only their beauty but also their inner strength and allure. The delicate balance between tradition and modernity made the name and scent particularly evocative for women in Japan and beyond.

In terms of scent, the name "Mai" suggests a perfume that unfolds in delicate layers, much like the dance it is named after. The floral fragrance can be interpreted as a sensory dance, where each note, whether aldehydic, spicy, or powdery, moves gracefully into the next. The aldehydic top provides a clean, sparkling opening, reminiscent of the fresh, ethereal quality of air and light that accompanies the beginning of a dance. The floral heart, infused with spices, adds warmth and complexity, echoing the subtle passion and intensity of a dancer’s movements. Finally, the powdery base settles like the soft footfall of a dancer coming to rest, leaving behind a trail of sensuality and lasting femininity.

In 1968, the fragrance landscape was in a state of transition. The late 1960s saw a blend of bold, daring fragrances reflecting the era’s cultural shifts, alongside perfumes that maintained the classic floral and aldehydic structures popular in earlier decades. Perfumes like Estée Lauder’s "Estée" (1968), with its powdery florals, and Guerlain’s "Chamade" (1969), a complex green floral, exemplified the sophisticated, multi-layered perfumes of the time. However, the presence of aldehydes, powdery bases, and floral hearts remained dominant, making "Mai" a familiar yet refined choice. It distinguished itself through its uniquely Japanese cultural lens, offering a sophisticated simplicity that appealed to women seeking a modern interpretation of traditional beauty.

Though "Mai" might have aligned with the floral and aldehydic trends of its time, it also stood out for its elegant restraint and cultural depth. In contrast to some of the more intense, musky perfumes of the late ’60s, "Mai" offered a more delicate yet impactful presence—sophisticated without being overpowering, sensual without being overt. Its balance of traditional florals with modern aldehydes and spices made it a unique, understated gem in a period of louder olfactory statements. Shiseido's "Mai" was an embodiment of timeless grace and modern femininity, creating a subtle allure for the women of its era.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It starts with an aldehydic top, followed by an elegant spicy floral heart, layered over a sensual, powdery, feminine base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, peach, estragon
• Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, clove, rose de mai, lilac, ylang ylang
• Base notes: amber, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, opoponax, tonka 

Scent Profile:

As you begin to experience Mai, the aldehydic top notes rise like the opening steps of a graceful Japanese dance. The aldehydes shimmer, clean and airy, evoking the swish of silk robes as they catch the light in a delicate fan dance. The crisp, sparkling quality of the aldehydes mirrors the cool elegance of a dancer’s polished fan, opening and closing in rhythmic harmony. 

Following this, the tangy bergamot flutters in, like the sharp snap of a fan cutting through the air, its citrusy brightness refreshing yet refined. It is soon softened by the warm, sun-kissed scent of peach, adding a touch of velvety sweetness, akin to the blush on the pale silk of a dancer’s kimono. The herbaceous green note of estragon emerges quietly, like the faint rustle of leaves beneath a performer’s feet on a traditional wooden stage, grounding the scent with an understated earthiness.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart notes bloom in full, much like the floral motifs that adorn the dancer's kimono and the delicate accessories in her hair. Jasmine opens the floral heart with a lush, intoxicating sweetness, reminiscent of garlands of fresh flowers woven into the dancer’s elaborate headdress. Its heady perfume fills the air, soft yet commanding, much like the slow, deliberate movements of the dancer’s outstretched arms. 

Lily of the valley follows, a fresh, green floral that brings to mind the gentle, undulating sound of the dancer’s silk sleeves brushing the stage floor, adding a touch of purity and innocence to the composition. The spice of clove weaves in next, like the intricate clinking of a stringed shamisen, adding depth and mystery, much like the subtle nuances of a ceremonial dance. Its warmth contrasts beautifully with the floral elements, creating a tension between the spicy and the sweet.

The delicate rose de mai is at the heart of this floral choreography, embodying both grace and beauty. The softness of the petals mirrors the flowing movements of the Mai dancer, each step deliberate, each turn graceful, like the unfolding of a rose. 

Lilac adds a tender touch, its soft purple blossoms bringing a note of romantic nostalgia, as though watching a dance that has been passed down through generations. The exotic ylang-ylang is the final note of this floral performance, its rich, creamy sweetness adding a tropical, sensual warmth, like the final flourish of the dancer’s fan, closing with a soft, elegant whisper.

As the performance of Mai draws to a close, the fragrance settles into a powdery, sensual base, enveloping you like the quiet aftermath of a dance, where the air is still but charged with emotion. Amber exudes a warm, golden glow, much like the soft, flickering light of lanterns illuminating a dimly lit stage. Its rich, resinous quality adds a depth that feels timeless and sacred. 

The earthy, smoky note of vetiver emerges, like the sound of the wooden taiko drums resonating in the background, grounding the composition with a natural, earthy cadence. The creamy sandalwood follows, smooth and meditative, like the feeling of soft, polished wood beneath the dancer’s feet as she glides across the stage.

In the final moments, the lingering musk adds a soft, animalic touch, like the distant, lingering echo of a flute playing the last note of a traditional piece. The balsamic sweetness of opoponax brings a slightly resinous warmth, enhancing the creamy softness of the drydown, while tonka adds a subtle, nutty sweetness, like the last touch of powder on the dancer’s face, delicate and refined. Together, these notes create a finish that is both sensual and serene, embodying the quiet power and timeless elegance of the Mai dance.

Each ingredient in this fragrant dance moves with grace and intention, much like the intricate performance that inspired it, combining elegance, strength, and a deeply cultural reverence for beauty and tradition.

Bottles:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

CLICK HERE TO FIND MAI PERFUME BY SHISEIDO