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Friday, April 13, 2018

Alex Ross & Sons

Alex Ross, Perfumers in London.

The London Directory notes an A. Ross, perfumer & ornamental hair manufacturer located at 119 Bishopsgate Within in 1802; an Alex Ross & Co, perfumers at 119 Bishopsgate Within in 1809; in 1827 an Alex Ross & Sons, perfumers & peruke makers at same address, and in 1839 Alex Ross & Sons, patent peruke makers at same address.
Ross, like other early perfumers, specialized not only in scents and cosmetics, but also in wigs, then known as "ornamental hair", "perukes" or "wiggery". The large wooden chests shown in the aquatint below are known as nĂ©cessaires de voyage or fancy toilet boxes. These travel boxes held multiple bottles for perfume (scents or "pungents"), cologne, scented vinegars, as well as ointment pots, soaps, sponges, combs, brushes, tongue scrapers, toothpicks, powder puffs, hair pins, a fan, a mirror, manicure and sewing implements, all the paraphernalia of the toilette for a well to do lady. Men's travel boxes would carry utensils necessary for shaving as well as various pots and bottles for cologne and vinegars, flasks, smoking items, small mixing bowls, beakers and a funnel, writing instruments, ink pots, and sometimes equipped with a small brazier and wax seals. 

A chocolate pot, coffeepot, tea pot, shaving jug and personal eating utensils might also be included as part of an extensive nécessaire de voyage.

The bottles and pots were often made of silver, many engraved or chased with designs, which could also be gilded, the more expensive ensembles had solid gold lids and caps, some encrusted with jewels or pearls. The implements themselves could have simple pewter handles or be made of mother or pearl, ivory or bone, The more expensive pieces had silver or gold handles, with or without decoration. Early flasks and bottles were generally made up of rock crystal, but these were replaced by the less expensive glass in later years.

These "fancy boxes" would be made up of rosewood, ebony, or covered with leather or tortoiseshell plaques and inlaid with gold or silver pique, mother of pearl, ivory, marquetry in contrasting woods or pewter stringing. Their compartmental interiors would be lined in either silk or velvet and trimmed in decorative pewter edging or braided silk, the inside of the lids often had a drop down mirrored or writing surface front attached with accordion pleated silk, this secretly concealed compartment was perfect for storing letters, documents and paper money. I once found a well read love letter tucked behind a mirrored compartment.







Many of these boxes were made in Paris and imported into England, although some English manufacturers sold some under their own names.

Alex Ross died at the age of 57 in 1819, short obituary from The Gentleman's Magazine, and Historical Chronicle. The company was still in business as late as 1874 as it was taken over by the sons and named Ross & Son's in 1819. 

The London Directory notes an A. Ross, perfumer & ornamental hair manufacturer at 119 Bishopsgate Within in 1802; an Alex Ross & Co, perfumers at 119 Bishopsgate Within in 1809; in 1827 an Alex Ross & Sons, perfumers & peruke makers at same address, and in 1839 Alex Ross & Sons, patent peruke makers at same address.

The Times, Tuesday, 12 June, 1837:
"Bouquet de la Princesse Victoria. This delightful perfume, invented in commemoration of Her Royal Highness's majority will be found to possess the grand desideratum, hitherto unachieved, of resembling a natural bouquet of flowers, which if smelt at different parts presents a variety of odours. As this essence is likely to supersede all others this season, the trade in general, and particularly country perfumers will do well to supply themselves with a stock of it immediately. Observe, none can be genuine without the signature of the inventors, Ross and Sons, and their address 119 Bishopsgate Street, with a likeness of the Princess attached to each bottle."


Ross & Sons also introduced another perfume, La Reine des Alpes in 1847.


The 119-1920 Bishopsgate Street address was formerly occupied by William Vickery (b.1750-d.1836). An 1780 advertisement reads: "Vickery, at his perfumery warehouse, The Rose, no. 119, Bishopsgate-Street, near Cornhill, London, having completed his most valuable system of perfumery, he has therefore opened the warehouse, as above, to which he imports every article of perfumery."

Vickery William, perfumer, 119, Bishopsgate Within.


Below is my wonderful hand colored aquatint showing the interior of the shop of Alex Ross, "the celebrated perruquier, perfumer, hair cutter, and hair dyer", from 119-120 Bishopsgate Street, London. In the etching, we see a large table which displays many perfume bottles and scents for sale, also exquisite wooden necessaire chests for ladies on the bench. The table on the back wall displays further goods such as perfumed soaps and wash balls. I love that there are garlands of flowers which hang from walls for a feeling of femininity. Illustration from Ackermann's 'Repository of Arts', part 1 or 85, series 2, vol 1. 1816.



In 1858, Alex Ross moved to 248 High Holborn, London "to have better accommodation for the use and sale" of their hair dye. The firm was still selling wigs at this time.

 

Other products sold by Alex Ross were popular items also produced by other firms such as bear's grease hair groom, curling fluids, cantharides oil to thicken hair, depilatories, facial enamel, shaving brushes and strops, and various pills to enhance beauty.

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