Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills c1992

Launched in November 1992, Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills emerged during a time of significant transition in the fragrance industry and broader cultural landscape. The early 1990s were marked by a burgeoning interest in more complex, layered fragrances that moved beyond the simplistic, heavily floral compositions of the previous decade. This period saw a shift towards fragrances that combined diverse notes to create sophisticated, multifaceted scents, reflecting the era's inclination towards both innovation and elegance. In this context, Wings embodied a modern vision of luxury, aligning with the contemporary preference for rich, intricate olfactory experiences.

The choice of the name "Wings" was both evocative and strategic. The name suggests a sense of freedom, lightness, and transcendence—emotions that align well with the fragrance’s airy and sophisticated composition. Imagery associated with "Wings" conjures thoughts of soaring through open skies, the sensation of liberation, and the elegance of flight. It evokes a feeling of elevation and boundless possibility, appealing to the aspirational and dynamic spirit of the early 1990s.

The fragrance itself, created by Jean-Claude Delville, is designed to capture these feelings through its intricate blend of top, middle, and base notes. The concept of "Wings" reflects not only the physical sensation of being lifted and carried away but also the emotional upliftment that a beautifully crafted scent can provide. This name encapsulates the perfume’s ability to transport the wearer to a place of grace and sophistication, mirroring the sentiments of aspiration and renewal prevalent during that era.

Background:

In an exclusive and carefully orchestrated process, a select group of 2,500 individuals from around the world was invited to participate in the evaluation of five different versions of a new fragrance from Giorgio Beverly Hills, each vying to become the final formulation of Wings perfume. This unique approach allowed a diverse panel to experience and assess the distinct characteristics of each version, ensuring that the chosen scent would resonate with a global audience.

Among the exotic ingredients featured in the nominated versions were a cactus orchid, known for its rare and intriguing nature, blooming only at night. This nocturnal bloom offered a mysterious and ethereal quality, infusing the fragrance with a sense of enigma and allure. Additionally, a jasmine variety from desert regions contributed to the scent's complexity. This jasmine, adapted to arid conditions, provided a warm and somewhat spicy floral note, evoking the resilience and unique beauty of desert flora.

The evaluation process remained shrouded in secrecy, with the final choice not revealed until October 1, 1992. On this date, Linda LoRe, the CEO of Giorgio Beverly Hills, would announce the winning formula. The anticipation built as enthusiasts and insiders awaited the decision, knowing that the chosen fragrance would embody the pinnacle of the selection process.

Wings perfume, as it was finally unveiled, was a testament to the intricate artistry and innovation of its creation. The final formulation boasted an impressive 621 ingredients, reflecting the meticulous blending of diverse and exotic components. This complex composition aimed to deliver a fragrance experience that was both rich and multifaceted, embodying the sophisticated and adventurous spirit of Giorgio Beverly Hills. The perfume was initially slated for debut exclusively at Giorgio boutiques and through mail order in the first week of November 1992, with a broader release to department stores planned for January 1993. This phased introduction ensured that the fragrance would receive the attention and appreciation it deserved, marking a significant moment in the brand’s storied history.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral oriental fragrance for women. Composed of 621 ingredients, Wings takes off with a burst of ginger lily, green osmanthus, gardenia and blue rose; glides with cattleya orchid, jasmine and lilac; and comes to rest in a base of amber and musk.

• Top notes: gardenia, ginger lily, passion flower, blue rose, green osmanthus, and marigold
• Middle notes: cyclamen, cattleya orchid, lilac, shaffali jasmine, and heliotrope
• Base notes: sandalwood, amber, musk, and cedar

 "A rare blend of 621 essences. Top notes include gingerlily, blue rose, green osmanthus and passion flower. A unique twist of the fragrance is found in its warm heart which contains the "Sensory Vortex" a secret blend of notes which are said to trigger positive moods in the wearer. The middle notes are catteleya orchid, shaffali jasmine, and heliotrope. It dries down to precious woods and amber musk."

Lear's, Volume 6, 1993:

"Wings. From Giorgio Beverly Hills (the makers of Red, a semi-oriental, and Giorgio, a bright floral scent) comes this brilliant floriental with exotic floral and warm, sensual woody notes. Among the ingredients are living ginger lily, living cattleya orchid, and living shaffali jasmine - all made possible with "living flower technology," which captures the essence of a flower's scent at the peak of bloom. In this process, a gas chromograph , or filter, is inserted into a flower to extract the aroma. Then the filter is removed, the aroma is chemically analyzed, and a formula is created that combines natural flower oils with synthetic ingredients."

Scent Profile:

Imagine stepping into a fragrant garden at dawn, where each note of Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills tells a story of sensory indulgence. This fruity floral oriental fragrance, meticulously crafted with 621 ingredients, unfolds in a mesmerizing olfactory journey.

The fragrance opens with the exhilarating burst of ginger lily, its fresh, slightly spicy aroma akin to a tropical sunrise. This is followed by the lush, creamy scent of gardenia, its sweet floral notes blending seamlessly with the bright, zesty freshness of passion flower. The addition of green osmanthus introduces a delicate, fruity nuance, reminiscent of ripe peaches and apricots. The blue rose adds a touch of rarity and mystery with its cool, subtly spicy scent, creating an initial impression that is both intriguing and refreshing.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals the complex beauty of the cattleya orchid. This component brings a rich, exotic floral aroma, evoking the essence of a vibrant, tropical garden. The shaffali jasmine contributes an opulent, warm floral note with a hint of spiciness, reflecting its desert origins. Lilac adds a touch of soft, powdery sweetness, while heliotrope weaves in a creamy, slightly almond-like scent that enhances the fragrance's depth.

The base notes bring a grounding warmth, starting with the smooth, woody richness of sandalwood. Amber adds a golden, resinous sweetness that envelops the senses in a comforting embrace. Musk introduces a sensual, animalic undertone, enhancing the fragrance's allure and longevity. Finally, cedarwood provides a crisp, aromatic finish, tying the composition together with its clean, woody scent.

Wings is further distinguished by its "Sensory Vortex," a unique blend of notes designed to evoke positive emotions. This secretive blend harnesses the essence of living flowers through advanced "living flower technology," capturing the peak aroma of each bloom. The result is a fragrance that not only delights the senses but also aims to uplift and invigorate the wearer.

Bottles:

The Wings perfume by Giorgio Beverly Hills was encased in a distinctive, artful bottle that captured the essence of its ethereal and sophisticated fragrance. The parfum version was presented in a small, sphere-like squat bottle, which exuded a sense of elegance and refinement. This unique design featured a blue, ball-shaped stopper, reminiscent of a delicate, iridescent jewel. The bottle’s rounded form and minimalistic lines created a sense of modernity, while the blue stopper added a pop of color that was both eye-catching and complementary to the fragrance's luxurious character.

Mary Scott, the designer from Maddocks & Company in Los Angeles, drew inspiration for this design from a cherished childhood memory. She recalled a keepsake seed pod that her mother had kept in a drawer, which inspired the bottle’s spherical and tactile form. According to Scott, "Perfume is about fantasy and feeling good, and the bottle is an essential part of the experience." Her design philosophy highlighted the importance of the bottle in enhancing the overall sensory journey of the fragrance. As she noted to the Los Angeles Times in 1995, “Many times, you start with no name - the bottle may inspire one,” underscoring how the design process can significantly influence the perception and naming of a fragrance.

In contrast, the Eau de Toilette spray of Wings was housed in a tall, slender bottle, which provided a striking visual contrast to the more compact parfum bottle. This design was elegant and elongated, reflecting a sense of grace and modern sophistication. The slender profile of the bottle was both practical and stylish, allowing for easy handling and a more contemporary aesthetic. This variation in bottle design not only distinguished the Eau de Toilette from the parfum but also aligned with its own unique character and usage, enhancing the fragrance's versatility and appeal.

The large advertising dummy for Wings by Giorgio Beverly Hills, known as a factice, was a striking piece used to promote the fragrance at perfume counters. This oversized bottle, measuring approximately 10 inches in height and 7 inches in diameter, was filled with colored water to mimic the appearance of the actual perfume. Its purpose was purely for display, enhancing the visual allure of the fragrance and drawing attention in retail environments. Though the factice was on loan from Giorgio for the duration of the promotional campaign and intended to be returned afterward, many of these bottles were never reclaimed and have surfaced for sale over the years. These factices are now sought after by collectors for their unique role in the perfume's marketing history and their distinctive, eye-catching design.

Product Line:

The Wings fragrance collection by Giorgio Beverly Hills was thoughtfully presented in a range of luxurious formats, catering to various preferences and occasions.

The 1 oz Extraordinary Perfume (Parfum), the most concentrated form of the fragrance, was housed in a sophisticated bottle that stood 4 inches tall. Its compact yet elegant design made it a precious addition to any perfume collection. The 0.25 oz Extraordinary Perfume (Parfum) offered a more portable option for those who wished to carry a touch of luxury with them. The smallest 0.13 oz Extraordinary Perfume (Parfum) came in a miniature bottle that stood just 1.75 inches tall, perfect for collectors or for use as a travel-sized indulgence.

For daily wear and larger quantities, the 1.7 oz Extraordinary Eau de Toilette Spray provided a generously sized bottle that balanced both practicality and elegance. The larger 3 oz Extraordinary Eau de Toilette Spray offered even more of the captivating fragrance, ideal for those who enjoyed their scent with greater abundance.

The body care range included the 5.3 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Dusting Powder, which added a touch of fragrance to the skin while leaving a soft, powdery finish. The 5.3 oz Perfumed Body Treatment Cream was designed to hydrate and scent the skin, combining luxurious moisturization with the fragrance’s enchanting notes. The 6.7 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Shower Gel allowed users to enjoy the fragrance experience from the moment they stepped into the shower, while the 3.4 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Body Moisturizer offered a lighter option compared to the larger 6.8 oz and 8.3 oz Extraordinary Perfumed Body Moisturizers, which provided extended hydration and scent.

Finally, the 12 oz Exhilarating Bath Crystals offered a decadent bathing experience, dissolving in the water to release the fragrance’s essence and transform a bath into a sensory retreat.

Each product in the Wings collection was designed to enhance the overall fragrance experience, providing a range of options for personal indulgence and everyday luxury.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Avon initially acquired the Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrance line in 1987, marking the beginning of a significant chapter in the brand's history. In 1994, Avon sold the Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrances to Procter & Gamble for $150 million. Procter & Gamble integrated Giorgio Beverly Hills into its fine fragrance division, Eurocos, which later became known as P&G Prestige Beauté. This merger allowed Giorgio Beverly Hills to benefit from the extensive resources and distribution networks of a major global corporation.

In 2007, the fragrance line underwent another shift when Arden Inc. acquired the worldwide license for Giorgio Beverly Hills fragrances, managing the brand under its EA Fragrances division. This transition marked a new era for the fragrance line, with Arden overseeing its marketing and distribution.

Over the years, Wings has remained in production, but not without challenges. The perfume has been subject to reformulation due to the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) restrictions and regulations on certain ingredients. A notable reformulation occurred around 2010, which altered the original formula to comply with these regulations. These changes often impact the fragrance's character, leading to differences in scent between vintage and more recent versions.

For those seeking the original scent experience, it is crucial to verify the packaging and bottle markings. Original Giorgio Beverly Hills bottles will feature the brand name prominently, while bottles from the EA Fragrances era (under Elizabeth Arden) will omit the Giorgio Beverly Hills name. Collectors and enthusiasts should look for these distinctions to ensure they are obtaining vintage versions of the fragrance.

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