Zarolia by Maitland Philipe c1981

Launched in 1981, Zarolia was the creation of acclaimed designer Maitland Phillipe, also known as Philip Maitland-Kraft, whose innovative approach to fragrance design earned widespread recognition. Distributed by T. Barclay Perfumes Inc., Zarolia likely reflected the opulent and transformative trends of the early 1980s, a period when bold, complex fragrances dominated the market.

The name Zarolia suggests an exotic and perhaps mysterious inspiration, hinting at a fragrance with a luxurious and multi-faceted character. Its composition may have opened with radiant top notes of citrus or aldehydes to captivate the senses, followed by a rich floral heart featuring jasmine, rose, or ylang-ylang. A base of warm amber, musk, and sandalwood might have lent depth and sensuality, creating a long-lasting and memorable scent.

Maitland Phillipe’s background as an award-winning designer suggests that Zarolia was not only a fragrance but also a statement piece, likely presented in an elegant flacon that echoed the sophistication and artistry of the perfume within. The distribution by T. Barclay Perfumes Inc. further positioned Zarolia as a high-end offering in the competitive fragrance market of the 1980s.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Zarolia is classified as a rich, exotic floral perfume for women, it's fragrance was bright and soft, with an emphasis on Bulgarian rose, jasmine and lily of the valley with rich moss, sensuous musk and woody tones. It was said to be a 100% natural multi-floral fragrance.

• Top notes: lily of the valley, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, fruity notes, citrus, aldehydes
• Middle notes:  sandalwood, amber, vetiver
• Base notes: musk, oakmoss 

Scent Profile:

The first impression of Zarolia blooms with the delicate yet crisp aroma of lily of the valley, a scent as fresh as a spring morning. Its green, dewy quality feels like inhaling the pure air of a flower-strewn meadow. Intertwined is the opulent richness of Bulgarian rose, deep and velvety, with a subtle honeyed undertone that radiates timeless elegance. The heady, narcotic sweetness of jasmine adds a sensual depth, blending seamlessly with the sparkling freshness of citrus—a burst of lemon and bergamot that uplifts and energizes. Whispering softly through this vibrant bouquet is the powdery sophistication of aldehydes, lending a champagne-like effervescence that lingers like a shimmering veil over the floral top notes. Faint hints of juicy fruity notes, ripe and sun-kissed, add a playful sweetness that rounds out the introduction with a bright, inviting warmth.

As the top notes settle, the heart of Zarolia reveals its warmth and complexity. Sandalwood takes center stage, its creamy, smooth aroma grounding the perfume with a sense of serenity. There is a quiet depth to this woody accord, enhanced by the golden glow of amber, which exudes a resinous sweetness, warm as sunlit honey. Meanwhile, vetiver adds an earthy sophistication with its grassy, smoky facets, weaving an aromatic contrast that balances the richness of the other notes. Together, these elements form a harmonious and luxurious middle, inviting wearers into a sensuous embrace.

As the fragrance evolves, the base emerges as a lingering whisper of sensuality. Musk envelops the composition in a soft, skin-like warmth, a gentle caress that enhances the natural beauty of the wearer. The deep, forest-like aroma of oakmoss lends an earthy complexity, tinged with a faint leathery sharpness that evokes the dampness of an ancient grove. This grounding duo anchors the perfume with a luxurious and sophisticated finish, leaving a trail that is both memorable and irresistibly alluring.

Zarolia is a journey through a fragrant landscape—bright and soft, rich and exotic, yet undeniably natural. Each ingredient, meticulously selected for its purity and beauty, plays its part in a symphony of floral opulence. From the initial burst of fresh florals and citrus to the warm embrace of the woody and musky base, Zarolia wraps the wearer in an aura of radiant femininity and timeless grace. The combination of its 100% natural elements and multi-floral richness ensures that this perfume feels as authentic as it is enchanting, a true masterpiece in olfactory design.

Bottles:

 Maitland Phillipe’s Zarolia wasn’t merely a perfume—it was a complete artistic and conceptual endeavor. Phillipe personally designed not only the fragrance but also its packaging, bottles, and the overarching concept, ensuring that each element reflected the brand's opulent vision. From its inception in 1981, Zarolia stood out for its luxurious presentation as much as for its exotic floral aroma. The Eau de Toilette came in elegantly understated frosted glass bottles, while the more exclusive Parfum and Eau de Parfum were housed in deluxe Tiffany glass flacons, showcasing Phillipe's commitment to artful presentation.

The "Imperial Gold" Body Lotion elevated indulgence to a new level, containing actual gold flakes suspended in the lotion, giving the wearer’s skin a subtle golden sheen. This attention to detail and opulence extended to every element of the Zarolia line, solidifying its status as a luxury icon.

• 1 oz Eau de Toilette Spray retailed for $27.50
• 2 oz Eau de Toilette Spray retailed for $45
• 2 Eau de Toilette Splash retailed for $35
• 1 oz Eau de Zarolia Spray retailed for $17.50
• Imperial Gold Body Lotion retailed for $29.50
• 1 oz Parfum retailed for $175
• 1/3 oz Purse Eau de Parfum Spray
• 2 oz Eau de Parfum Spray retailed for $275
• 4 oz Eau de Parfum Spray retailed for $350

Tiffany Glass Masterpieces

The pinnacle of Zarolia’s artistry lay in its deluxe cobalt blue art glass bottles, crafted by renowned Tiffany glass artist John Gilvey. These spherical masterpieces featured an intricate adaptation of a peacock plume rendered in gold and silver, melted into the glass to create an iridescent effect. Each splash bottle was crowned with a ball-shaped stopper fitted with a dauber, and the neck was elegantly wrapped in a sterling silver cord. These exquisite bottles, containing one ounce of parfum, retailed for $425 in 1982.

In 1983, Zarolia pushed the boundaries of luxury with a limited 22-ounce Art Deco-inspired flacon priced at $4,000. The scale and design of this bottle reflected Phillipe’s ability to merge grandiosity with artistry, cementing the perfume as a collector's dream.

The Exceptional Edition: A $50,000 Icon

By 1989, Zarolia introduced an extraordinary edition that redefined luxury. This spherical, cobalt blue bottle featured swirling silver peacock plume designs, hand-blown and signed by three of its creators. Adorned with a 14-karat gold collar set with cabochon amethysts, the bottle contained an astonishing 97 ounces of Zarolia Parfum Extraordinaire. Priced at $50,000, this bottle was more than a fragrance; it was a work of art and a status symbol. Designed by Peter Roth, the bottle was transported in a specially designed leather case by Edward A. Elliott, president of Barclay Perfumes. Only four of these exclusive bottles were created, with one sold to the Bacardi family in the Caribbean.

 

A Sparkling Promotion: Diamonds in a Bottle

In 1986, Zarolia celebrated its seventh anniversary with an innovative promotional campaign. Tear-drop-shaped frosted glass bottles, featuring plume-shaped stoppers, contained 1/4 ounce of pure parfum and retailed for $55. Hidden among these bottles were $4,000 worth of genuine diamonds, offering buyers a 15% chance of finding a diamond inside their bottle. Diamonds ranged in size from 1/4 to 1 carat, with appraised values between $500 and $4,000. Additionally, 1,000 one-ounce collector perfume bottles were mixed with 100 redeemable certificates for diamonds of similar sizes. This creative marketing campaign added an element of excitement and exclusivity to the already prestigious brand.

Through exquisite craftsmanship, innovative marketing, and an uncompromising commitment to luxury, Zarolia transcended the boundaries of traditional perfumery, becoming a symbol of sophistication and indulgence.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

 It has been discontinued for many years and is very hard to find, it was still being sold in 1992.

CLICK HERE TO FIND ZAROLIA PERFUME BY MAITLAND PHILIPE

City Girl Shimmering Perfume: A Sparkling Innovation

In 1985, Maitland Phillipe brought a touch of glamour and youthful charm to the fragrance world with City Girl Shimmering Perfume, designed for Parfums Baccarat of Westport, Connecticut. Aimed at young women aged 13 to 30, the perfume blended affordability, elegance, and innovation. It captured the carefree spirit of urban youth with its bright and feminine white floral aroma, enhanced by a distinctive feature: tiny iridescent particles that left a delicate shimmer wherever the fragrance was sprayed.

Creating this shimmering effect presented a unique technical challenge. Maitland Phillipe himself revealed that it took an entire year of research to perfect the formula, ensuring the shimmer particles remained evenly suspended without settling at the bottom of the bottle. This commitment to quality and creativity set City Girl apart as more than just a scent; it was a fashion statement in liquid form.

Despite its luxurious concept, City Girl was designed to be accessible, retailing at an affordable $7.95 for a one-ounce bottle. The price point made it an attractive option for young women seeking a touch of sophistication on a budget. Phillipe backed the fragrance with a substantial $4 million media campaign, demonstrating his belief in its mass appeal. His efforts paid off, as City Girl was distributed in over 40,000 mass-market stores, including prominent retailers like JC Penney, Caldor, and Sears.

By combining a playful design, innovative shimmer technology, and a universally appealing scent, City Girl Shimmering Perfume became a symbol of attainable luxury, capturing the imagination of a generation eager to shine.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a white floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: honeysuckle, bergamot, neroli, lily of the valley
• Middle notes: orange blossom, gardenia, rose, carnation and jasmine
• Base notes: musk, amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, vanilla

Scent Profile:

The fragrance opens with an enchanting bouquet that sparkles like sunlight filtering through a spring garden. The sweet and nectarous aroma of honeysuckle greets you first, its honeyed warmth carrying a faint green undertone that feels both fresh and comforting. This natural sweetness is brightened by the crisp, citrusy bite of bergamot, evoking the zest of a freshly peeled orange. Interwoven is the orange-blossom-like freshness of neroli, a delicate floral essence with subtle hints of honey and green stems. Adding a touch of innocent charm is the airy, soft scent of lily of the valley, its tender, dew-kissed blooms lending a whisper of pure elegance. Together, these top notes shimmer with youthful exuberance, setting the stage for what lies ahead.

As the fragrance deepens, the heart notes unfold into a rich tapestry of white florals. Orange blossom takes center stage, its creamy, citrusy sweetness embracing the senses with its luminous glow. Gardenia steps in with its heady, intoxicating aroma, blending velvety creaminess with a hint of green freshness, as though plucked fresh from the garden. The timeless allure of rose adds a soft, powdery touch, while the spiced warmth of carnation lends a subtle complexity, its peppery nuance balanced by floral sweetness. Finally, jasmine, queen of the florals, weaves through the composition with its rich, narcotic perfume, blending the sensuality of ripe petals with an ethereal brightness. This heart is lush, opulent, and undeniably feminine.

As the fragrance settles on the skin, the base notes reveal a sensual and grounding warmth. Musk offers a soft, animalic foundation, its velvety texture blending seamlessly with the resinous glow of amber. The creamy richness of sandalwood provides a luxurious smoothness, its woody warmth enriched by the earthy depth of oakmoss, which adds a hint of forested mystery. To finish, vanilla wraps the composition in a sweet, comforting embrace, its gourmand undertone evoking feelings of softness and warmth. Together, these base notes linger like a shimmering veil, leaving a trail that is both alluring and comforting.

City Girl is an olfactory dance between light and warmth, freshness and depth, designed to encapsulate the vibrancy and femininity of youthful elegance. Each note plays its part to perfection, creating a fragrance that is as radiant as the shimmering particles it carries.