Pierre Vivion

 Pierre Vivion, a French perfume chemist, worked for Lanvin in 1953. He was involved with a prior copycat fragrance co called Sherrell at some point, which went out of business in 1976 after getting involved in some sort of lawsuit. 

Vivion founded his own company, Pierre Vivion, Inc. In 1972, Pierre Vivion offered French-milled soaps. In 1979, the company was located at 309 Georgian Drive, Paramus, NJ. 

In 1980, it was located at 114 West 30th Street, in New York City. Pierre Vivion sold directly to the public. 

By 1978, he marketed reproductions of over 48 favorite fragrances, such as Charlie, Madame Rochas, Norell, Opium, Bellodgia, Joy, White Shoulders, Arpege, Replique, Miss Dior, Shalimar, Givenchy III, Bal a Versailles - some of the most expensive perfumes. 

However, perfume formulas aren't patented, but they are trade secrets kept under the most strictest of confidence. An unnamed Chanel spokesman said "It's a trade secret with us as it is with others, so actual attempts to come close to something that is well established can never exactly match our list of ingredients."

The knockoff companies do extensive testing for fragrance and their lasting characteristics. The knockoff versions are said to last just as long as their expensive counterparts. They were made in the French tradition of blending" number of ounces of oil - at least 25% - to alcohol in a gallon. The main ingredients in the popular high end brands are what are used in the knockoff versions. For instance, Joy by Jean Patou, has two main notes: Bavarian rose and French jasmine. The knockoff companies would take these two ingredients then add in other ingredients via trial and error to create something similar to Joy or other major fragrances.

"The way it's done is that you fool around with different chemicals until you get something close to what you want," said Steve Martin of Pierre Vivion Perfumers. "We're always close, but we've never hit it on the head."

Why was there such a market for cheaper fragrance alternatives? "Few women can afford Joy unless they're a kept woman or are married for years," said Martin, noting that Joy cost $150 per ounce. "We sell one ounce of [our version of] Joy for $13.50 and one ounce of [our version of] Chanel No. 5 for $10.80." How did Pierre Vivion afford to make these products so much cheaper than the big brands? Easy. They do not have the immense overhead as their expensive counterparts. Bottling and marketing of perfume contributes to a fragrance's final cost.

"We're not on television, we have no secretary here and we don't advertise. I answer my own phone," said Martin, who had been reproducing expensive perfumes since 1970. Did the company get pressed by major manufacturers? "Sure, we get hassled, but they can't touch us," said Martin. "You can buy a reproduction of a Picasso, can't you?"

By 1981, the line was extended to 50 top of the line perfumes, and by 1983, they offered mens fragrances imitating Pino Silvestre, Paco Rabanne, Aramis and Brut.

Pierre Vivion also launched their own original fragrances such as Piquette and Kismet. Piquette may have been Vivion's version of Arpege by Lanvin, this makes sense to me as he worked as a perfumer for Lanvin in the 50s.

The lists below are incomplete, if you have any fragrances to add to them, let me know. I will update as I find more info.

Pierre Vivion Original Fragrances:

• Piquette
• Piquette Musk
• Sitar
• Cocaine
• Croquette
• Red Garter
• Black Garter
• Cannes
• Kismet
• Kismet Tea Rose
• Kismet Musk

Pierre Vivion Reproduction Perfumes:

• Pierre Vivion No. 1 - Joy
• Pierre Vivion No. 4 - Replique
• Pierre Vivion No. 5 - Bal a Versailles
• Pierre Vivion No. 22 - Miss Dior
• Pierre Vivion No. 55 - Opium

Pierre Vivion Reproduction Colognes for Men:

• Pierre Vivion No. M3 - 
• Pierre Vivion - No. M10 - Royal Copenhagen