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Tuesday, February 6, 2024

Tocade by Coryse Salome c1957

Tocade by Corysé Salomé, launched in 1957, is a perfume whose very name evokes passion, spontaneity, and allure. The word "Tocade" is derived from French and is pronounced toh-KAHD. In its essence, "tocade" refers to a whim, a sudden and impulsive desire, or even a fleeting obsession—something irresistible, yet light-hearted and playful. The name itself captures the unpredictable, carefree nature of falling in love or chasing after one’s desires. It suggests a woman who is bold, adventurous, and unafraid to follow her impulses, even if only for a brief, intense moment.

In terms of imagery, the word "Tocade" brings to mind the free-spirited woman of the 1950s, with a touch of elegance and a hint of recklessness. She is spontaneous, joyfully impulsive, perhaps chasing a whim through the cobblestone streets of Paris, a smile on her lips. The word conjures emotions of exhilaration, indulgence, and fleeting beauty—like a brief romance or a sudden, overpowering craving for something delightful. It evokes images of vibrant florals blooming unexpectedly, a rush of fresh citrus, and earthy notes grounding the perfume like the pull of reality on a whimsical dream.

Interpreted in scent, Tocade takes this notion of fleeting passion and transforms it into a fruity floral woody fragrance. The dominant jasmine note represents the heart of this scent, lush and seductive, unfolding like a bouquet of white petals. Italian citron brings a sparkling brightness, adding a playful, sun-kissed citrus touch. The grounding earthiness of vetiver and patchouli gives the fragrance depth, balancing the lively florals with a steady, sultry base. Ambergris lends its warmth, creating a soft, alluring trail, while musk wraps the fragrance in a sensual, intimate veil. Together, these notes form a perfume that is at once feminine and bold, floral yet grounded—a true expression of the whimsical and passionate spirit of "Tocade."

When Tocade was released in 1957, the perfume world was evolving in the context of post-war femininity. The 1950s marked a period of revival and glamour, with women embracing more luxurious, expressive fragrances. Perfumes at the time were rich, opulent, and often bold statements of femininity. However, Tocade stood out for its playful, yet sophisticated take on the fruity floral genre, combining the freshness of citrus with the depth of woodsy, earthy notes. The inclusion of musk and ambergris added a layer of sensuality that was bold for the time, while patchouli and vetiver kept the scent grounded in a timeless elegance.



In comparison to other fragrances of the time, Tocade offered a balance between the more conventional, elegant florals and the bolder, more sensual scents that were beginning to emerge. It reflected the desire of the modern woman to embrace her individuality, whims, and fleeting passions, without abandoning sophistication. As a result, Tocade would have appealed to women seeking a perfume that was daring yet refined—a perfect balance of spontaneity and elegance.

Women in the 1950s, emerging from the austerity of wartime, were drawn to perfumes that reflected the newfound glamour and luxury of the era. A perfume named Tocade, with its allusion to whimsy and indulgence, would have resonated with women eager to express their freedom, femininity, and modern sensibilities. It was a fragrance that invited them to embrace their desires, even if just for a moment, while still maintaining a sense of timeless allure.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral woody fragrance for women. It has dominant notes of jasmine, Italian citron, vetiver, patchouli, ambergris, and musk. A modern perfume with a floral dominance.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, Italian citron, bergamot, neroli, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang
  • Middle notes: plum, raspberry, heliotrope, honeysuckle, violet
  • Base notes: patchouli, ambergris, sandalwood, musk, vetiver, cinnamon, civet, almond


Officiel de la couture et de la mode de Paris - Issues 603-605, 1973:

“Tocade (by Coryse Salomé) for this modern, predominantly floral perfume.”


Scent Profile:


As you first encounter Tocade, the bright and effervescent top notes greet you like a sudden burst of sunlight. The aldehydes create a sparkling, almost fizzy sensation that instantly awakens your senses, giving the fragrance a luminous, airy quality. Then comes the sharp, zesty freshness of Italian citron and bergamot, their citrusy vibrancy cutting through the air with a crisp, energizing brightness. It’s like standing in a citrus grove, breathing in the sun-warmed zest of fruit freshly plucked from the trees. 

The sweetness of neroli, with its bitter orange-floral undertone, follows, softening the citrus edge with its delicate, honeyed warmth. Then, the floral bouquet begins to unfold—rose and jasmine bloom simultaneously, their heady, intoxicating petals blending with the creamy richness of ylang-ylang, bringing a sultry, exotic note to the opening.

As the heart of Tocade reveals itself, a luscious interplay of fruity and floral notes emerges. The succulent plum and raspberry create a juicy, slightly tart sweetness that feels ripe and opulent, like biting into fruit at its peak. There’s a delicate powdery softness in the air, contributed by the heliotrope, which adds a faint almond-like creaminess to the fragrance, evoking a gentle, soothing warmth. The fragrant notes of honeysuckle and violet entwine, adding both sweetness and a subtle green freshness. The honeysuckle’s floral nectar notes are reminiscent of springtime gardens in full bloom, while the violet lends a soft, powdery elegance that hints at vintage sophistication.

As the base notes begin to surface, the composition deepens and darkens, becoming more sensual and grounded. Patchouli and vetiver add a rich, earthy foundation, their woody, smoky qualities grounding the sweetness of the fruits and florals. The patchouli is warm and resinous, while vetiver offers a drier, grassy earthiness, both working together to provide depth and dimension. The sensual allure of ambergris envelops everything in a soft, animalic warmth—smooth, salty, and almost skin-like in its intimacy. It creates a subtle, seductive trail that lingers, drawing you in closer.

The creamy, milky texture of sandalwood follows, blending seamlessly with the plush, enveloping musk, which gives the fragrance a velvety softness, like cashmere brushing against your skin. Then comes a whisper of cinnamon, adding a spicy, exotic edge, just enough to warm the fragrance without overpowering it. The animalic undertone of civet adds an intriguing complexity, a primal, almost wild note that evokes a sense of mystery. Finally, a touch of almond brings a delicate sweetness to the base, mingling with the woods and musk to create a warm, lingering finish that feels both comforting and luxurious.

Each note in Tocade is carefully balanced, weaving together layers of vibrant florals, rich fruits, and deep, sensual woods and spices. It’s a fragrance that feels modern yet timeless, exuberant yet grounded—perfectly capturing the essence of feminine allure.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Tocade, originally launched in 1957, made a bold impression with its fruity floral woody composition, but like many fragrances, it saw a discontinuation. However, its allure proved too strong to stay forgotten. In 1968, Tocade was relaunched, continuing to captivate those drawn to its sophisticated blend of rich florals, zesty citruses, and sensual woody notes. It remained available throughout the early 1970s, with mentions still found in 1973, before being discontinued once again. Today, Tocade is considered rare, a hidden gem of perfumery history that collectors and fragrance enthusiasts alike treasure for its unique blend and vintage charm. Its elusive nature adds to its mystique, making it a sought-after piece of olfactory nostalgia from a bygone era.


CLICK HERE TO FIND TOCADE PERFUME BY CORYSE SALOME

 

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